Wow... Sounds interesting... However I have been doing some very quick reading and somewhat missed the quartz thing... Could anyone please fill me in... !?
Would this be safer... Etc !?
Would this be safer... Etc !?
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A quick observation, not a qualified one as I've never even used an rba, let alone work with one.
If the coil is just wrapped around the glass pipette, since glass is more of a heat insulator than air, wouldn't you be losing a lot of the heat to the surrounding air rather than into the glass and wick/juice?
What if you had a slightly larger insulating ceramic (or other heat-insulating material) tube surrounding the coil so the heat stays within the coil-glass-mesh?
If the coil is just wrapped around the glass pipette, since glass is more of a heat insulator than air, wouldn't you be losing a lot of the heat to the surrounding air rather than into the glass and wick/juice?
What if you had a slightly larger insulating ceramic (or other heat-insulating material) tube surrounding the coil so the heat stays within the coil-glass-mesh?
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More heat= burning effect;you want something hot enough to vaporize beyond boiling...thin quartz tube must be red hot up to a point,its the quartz ability to sustain heat without shattering that makes it a primo choice over pyrex,then glass
Sure, but I guess my suggestion is not for more heat, but using less power overall to get the right amount of heat to the juice. So with the outside insulator, you could get the same heat with lower current = longer battery life.
And substitute quartz in for glass if that's better.
Is there anything that a guy can buy locally that will work? All you need is a non toxic product, non-conductive and is effective for thermal transfer (???)
There must be something. Can't this tubing be purchased at a hobby shop?
There must be something. Can't this tubing be purchased at a hobby shop?
Must use up the battery if its spending all that energy getting the temperature up to vapour
I can see these being great for chain vapers, but for a casual puffer it would be counter productive to keep re-priming the tube. Boro tubes should be able to handle the heat without much problem. I mean, they use it for lab ware and the thin walled stuff is subjected to higher temps than a coil, no?
Lark, you use a carbide file/lathe blank/glass cutter, small score and pull/snap. You'll end up having sharp edges so be careful when handling it, broken glass can cut you without you even noticing until you're bleeding. ALWAYS wear eye protection. Personally, this is one mod that seems to have too many chances for injury, to fix a problem that isn't really a problem (SS/cotton wicks are a lot simpler for people who don't have experience/tools to get working, and don't exactly cost a fortune).
Lark, you use a carbide file/lathe blank/glass cutter, small score and pull/snap. You'll end up having sharp edges so be careful when handling it, broken glass can cut you without you even noticing until you're bleeding. ALWAYS wear eye protection. Personally, this is one mod that seems to have too many chances for injury, to fix a problem that isn't really a problem (SS/cotton wicks are a lot simpler for people who don't have experience/tools to get working, and don't exactly cost a fortune).
That's why a ceramic tube covering the whole thing would work. Keep the heat produced inside onto the juice and not heating the air around it.
I'm no engineer, but the following seems to make sense to me.
I haven't worked with these, but from what I can gather, before, the coil was covered in juice from the wick, right? In that case, it is heating juice from the inside. The heat has a short distance to go to reach the outside surface of the juice and heat it enough to vaporize it. Basically, it's popping the juice off of itself from the inside. It's also not directly heating the air outside the juice from a coil/air boundary. Same with cartos and clearos.
This new idea is more of an external radiation heat. The juice is being heated from the outside in. Since the coil is Dry and exposed to the air, the coil is now also heating the surrounding air in the chamber as well as the glass, juice, and mesh. If the surrounding air is being heated externally, the lower temperature difference at the air/juice boundary will reduce the amount of liquid that gets vaporized. I think e juice vaporization works because it is cooking the juice from the inside out across the surface of the coil. This creates much more juice/air boundary area for the state change to occur.
A ceramic sleeve covering the coil-glass-mesh assembly will prevent some of this by reducing the heat transfer to the surrounding air.
The mesh at the very top should be not super tight within the glass so that there is more air/juice boundary area.
It would actually be better if the top of the glass tube ended in a small horn shape. The juice and mesh adjacent to the coils is heated, the heat travels up, and the juice boils off the part of the mesh covered in juice at the very top. Unless changing the ID would defeat the capillary action.
TL;DR:
Heating the air inside the chamber directly = bad.
This also wastes battery power.
Increased juice/air boundary surface area = good.
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So why wouldn't a soft wick work better. Hearing the ss would take longer and require more power. So why not have cotton inside the quartz?
Cotton was tested and it works (last time I checked the thread, granted it's been a few days). The time/power used is just in heating the tube regardless of wick type, once it is hot enough the liquid vaporizes no matter how it is delivered.
So the liquid is vaping off the tube and not the wick? So that means the wick doesn't clump up?
I think he ordered Pyrex. It will be stocked on Tuesday he said. Ill give Pyrex a go till I get my hands on FQ
Damn, thought I was the first. Someone on the main thread started talking about it later last night.
If the juice is being vaporized off of a glass surface, that's probably an optimally clean vape.
Another idea.
One glass tube inside another with a coil wrapped inside the inner surface of the inner tube. The inner tube is sealed at the top.
Either mesh or cotton to coat the surface of the inner tube with juice. The juice vaporizes off the hot glass of the inner tube.
Kind if like juice being vaporized on the surface of a lightbulb.
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