Yeah, the cupped ones do have a kind of edge to em that can kinda act as a shear when tightening down on a wire.
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I never even thought about it 'til you guys mentioned it, but I've never had a wire snip when building on the O-16, and I mainly use 28g SS316 these days.
Concerned!!
My fancy shmancy $30 bottle arrived. Which was QUICK, by the way...
But before I juice it up (and decide which mod gets it) - it's a 2 part top, right: the "cap" and the "lid" let's call 'em.
To fill, I'd unscrew the bottle/cap from the lid. Like in the pic - lid and tube staying in the mod.
Except that's TIGHT. I mean, the threading is SMOOTH, it isn't rough...but it's TIGHT.
Like there's no way you could hold the BOTTLE and turn - you have to get a really good grip on the two metal parts to turn it. I cannot imagine being able to do that while it's in a mod.
Do I have a defective bottle?
Or is there some trick to open/closing it?
Should I lube the threads with VG maybe?
Help!
My fancy shmancy $30 bottle arrived. Which was QUICK, by the way...
But before I juice it up (and decide which mod gets it) - it's a 2 part top, right: the "cap" and the "lid" let's call 'em.
To fill, I'd unscrew the bottle/cap from the lid. Like in the pic - lid and tube staying in the mod.
Except that's TIGHT. I mean, the threading is SMOOTH, it isn't rough...but it's TIGHT.
Like there's no way you could hold the BOTTLE and turn - you have to get a really good grip on the two metal parts to turn it. I cannot imagine being able to do that while it's in a mod.
Do I have a defective bottle?
Or is there some trick to open/closing it?
Should I lube the threads with VG maybe?
Help!
Nevermind...I think I get it now.
It's not the threading at all - that's loosey-goosey and smooth. It's that about 1 turn in, the LID is PRESSING against a lip of silicone bottle already - and I'm squishing to seal. So it doesn't have to turn far, and there's room to "compress" with age or whatever and still seal.
I'm good.
Think I'm gonna go ahead and put it in my very first Reo. My Grand. My road warrior that goes with me everywhere every day....
It's not the threading at all - that's loosey-goosey and smooth. It's that about 1 turn in, the LID is PRESSING against a lip of silicone bottle already - and I'm squishing to seal. So it doesn't have to turn far, and there's room to "compress" with age or whatever and still seal.
I'm good.
Think I'm gonna go ahead and put it in my very first Reo. My Grand. My road warrior that goes with me everywhere every day....
.....and
Maybe not the Grand. Lid scrapes up against the battery/bottle wall.
I could probably bend that, or force it, but I don't want to do that to the grand, OR wear the grippy edge of the bottle cap.
It looks like a PERFECT fit in a P67 (or a woodvil) though.
Just what I need - another excuse to (eventually) buy another P67!
Maybe not the Grand. Lid scrapes up against the battery/bottle wall.
I could probably bend that, or force it, but I don't want to do that to the grand, OR wear the grippy edge of the bottle cap.
It looks like a PERFECT fit in a P67 (or a woodvil) though.
Just what I need - another excuse to (eventually) buy another P67!
I was talking to pdib recently, and he cautioned me about those bottles. He said that once you get one, they'll spoil you. With 13 mods, at $28 per bottle, I think I'll pass for now, and continue to tough it out with the stock 6mm bottles. I'm pretty used to them. Besides, I have fairly strong hands. With those soft bottles, I'd probably be squirting juice out the drip tip.
thanks
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The price I paid was for a quantity of 25.
Look over in the top right of the page. Click on the extended(dog) illustration.
Look over in the top right of the page. Click on the extended(dog) illustration.
Those are the same screws I posted back a few weeks ago. I would suggest to anyone that doesn't have one, to get yourself a hex driver. You can't imagine how much easier it is to set these in the posts. Every hex key I had for mine stripped and were completely useless in no time... Here's the pic I posted a couple weeks ago...
I got these on ebay a couple weeks ago. Cheap enough, and you are right, much better than trying to handle those hex keys. The 1.5 is a little sloppy in the hex, so have to use a little caution in tightening, and loosening. Do they make anything between the 1.5, and 2.0?
Not that I am aware of. That is very interesting as mine fits very snug inside the hex on my screws... I almost have to wiggle my driver out of the screw sometimes. Maybe you just happened to get a bad hex driver!! Machined tolerance was off slightly.
@oplholik Instead of editing my previous post, it would seem that your driver set is #264 which is the "ball end" set and yes, you will somewhat feel a little sloppy. They are meant to be used on angle than straight forward. Mine is #263 which is the straight version. Take a good look at the tips in the pics and you will see the differences.
After doing some more checking, the screws that come with the O-16 are the worse, the ones from McMaster Carr aren't to bad.
Yeah, you are right. I did notice the difference. I never used ball ends before and they will be ok in the better screws I ordered.
Do keep in mind you are using "cloned" O-16's and there could be almost anything in those. I would question if they were even stainless steel screws!! I know back a few years ago I had some cloned atty's and they weren't mfg'd from the materials they listed them as... Just FYI...
I am still using the same screws that came with my authentic's from over a year ago. I only ordered new screws because I thought the hex in them were stripped, only to find out it was the original hex keys that were... I'm setting on 25 screws that I will probably never use!!
I would order a standard hex driver in the correct size, as being a previous fastener distributor, I have know too many people that actually stripped the screw heads not know how to use the ball drivers. They were meant to be used in other than standard circumstances...
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