The Reonauts new lounge

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Robinowitz

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True story. This was a while ago :)

In the middle of a bike ride over 100 miles...chowing down on pizza and having a vape :D
Hey @Rayonati Sloth! Here you get us hooked on SS and then you leave us Don't make us hunt you down again
Happy bike journey!
 

oldbroad

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Sloth was shipped some 316L, without the "L". He e-mailed Temco. They said it was just a label misprint issue.
What he recieved was in fact 316L.


O ordered the 316L also...got the 316 without the L..made a coil, put it on the Reo to check it, one leg immediately burned off...made another one on a different addie, hit the button...it too burned right off at the leg.

Ontacted them, they said, in effect, that there's no difference between the 316L and the 316..then inferred that i made bad coils...
 

Rule62

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O ordered the 316L also...got the 316 without the L..made a coil, put it on the Reo to check it, one leg immediately burned off...made another one on a different addie, hit the button...it too burned right off at the leg.

Ontacted them, they said, in effect, that there's no difference between the 316L and the 316..then inferred that i made bad coils...

Well, not inferring anything, but, I have ss in about 12 attys, and haven't burned off a leg yet.:blush:
 

Robinowitz

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O ordered the 316L also...got the 316 without the L..made a coil, put it on the Reo to check it, one leg immediately burned off...made another one on a different addie, hit the button...it too burned right off at the leg.

Ontacted them, they said, in effect, that there's no difference between the 316L and the 316..then inferred that i made bad coils...
Haven't had that problem but I put a flame to them, dunk in water, repeat a couple times before I make a coil.
 

Rule62

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I set up ss coils about the same way as I set up kanthal. Very quick pulses at first. Them progressively longer, strumming the coils a couple times in between, until the coils fire evenly. I never heat the coils beyond cherry red. I don't ever prep the wire beforehand by heating and dunking.
 

Debadoo

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I want a work from home gig. :cry: :lol:

Morning all. :)
me too specially if I could do it on my hours. I'm usually up and ready to go in the middle of the night.

O ordered the 316L also...got the 316 without the L..made a coil, put it on the Reo to check it, one leg immediately burned off...made another one on a different addie, hit the button...it too burned right off at the leg.

Ontacted them, they said, in effect, that there's no difference between the 316L and the 316..then inferred that i made bad coils...
good to see ya hun! I dunno what happened. Scott made me make some coils yesterday in the h/o I do it the same way rule does........just wrap the coils, pulse slowly til they glow, strum them if they need it to get em both going at the same time.........mine are fine. Can't imagine that happening to you though even once but certainly not more than once! You've been making coils just fine for a long time. Way longer than me. Scott said you checked and it wasn't that they snapped from tightening it down too hard. All I can say is try one more time and if it does it again, I'd call em back and tell em they need to replace the wire you got.

I set up ss coils about the same way as I set up kanthal. Very quick pulses at first. Them progressively longer, strumming the coils a couple times in between, until the coils fire evenly. I never heat the coils beyond cherry red. I don't ever prep the wire beforehand by heating and dunking.
same here on all counts. Cept I dunno what ya mean by not heating past cherry red........isn't that as hot as it goes? <shrug> lol
 

Rule62

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I dunno what ya mean by not heating past cherry red........isn't that as hot as it goes? <shrug> lol

No, cherry red is exactly as the name implies. It's a deep red. If you hold the button longer, they will get much hotter. If you're heating the coils to a bright orange or yellow hot, it's too hot. It degrades the metal.
 

LoriP1702

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@oldbroad :wub:. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!
The Patina door is very happy and loving her new home. The tip is my first wooden one from Molehill Mountain. :)

IMG_20160714_175242.jpg
 

muzichead

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If you hold the button longer, they will get much hotter.
It was my understanding that 316L will only heat so far and then cool or back off in temp, unlike A1 that continues to heat and just gets hotter and hotter...

eta... It was recently posted somewhere that 316L was considered TC wire for a mechanical device because it only heats so far and then has a cooling effect...
 

supertrunker

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If you are having issues with your coils Kay, then check the screws on your atty and make sure they have no sharp points at the bottom.

On some atties, i'd routinely file the screws down a bit by rubbing them on an emery board or some sandpaper, because just tightening them down could damage a coil.

T
 

Rule62

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It was my understanding that 316L will only heat so far and then cool or back off in temp, unlike A1 that continues to heat and just gets hotter and hotter...

eta... It was recently posted somewhere that 316L was considered TC wire for a mechanical device because it only heats so far and then has a cooling effect...

316L will increase resistance as the coil heats up. That's true. But how hot it gets is dependent on the gauge wire you're using, the 'cold' resistance you're building to, and the level of charge of your battery. You could potentially overheat the wire.
I spent a good deal of my nearly 40 year welding career working with stainless steels of various alloys. The worst enemy of the integrity of stainless steel is overheating. The exact effect is too involved to get into here. But suffice it to say, the longer stainless steel is heated beyond the red stage, about 1400 degrees F, the more damaging it is. It begins to lose the properties that makes it stainless.
 

Debadoo

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@oldbroad :wub:. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!
The Patina door is very happy and loving her new home. The tip is my first wooden one from Molehill Mountain. :)

View attachment 578443
oh that's gorgeous!!! Kay is such a sweetie pie!!

316L will increase resistance as the coil heats up. That's true. But how hot it gets is dependent on the gauge wire you're using, the 'cold' resistance you're building to, and the level of charge of your battery. You could potentially overheat the wire.
I spent a good deal of my nearly 40 year welding career working with stainless steels of various alloys. The worst enemy of the integrity of stainless steel is overheating. The exact effect is too involved to get into here. But suffice it to say, the longer stainless steel is heated beyond the red stage, about 1400 degrees F, the more damaging it is. It begins to lose the properties that makes it stainless.
Good to know.......but I do slowly pulse them and have seen the blue, but now ya know my goal is going to be the PURPLE!! hehehe
 

Rule62

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oh that's gorgeous!!! Kay is such a sweetie pie!!


Good to know.......but I do slowly pulse them and have seen the blue, but now ya know my goal is going to be the PURPLE!! hehehe

Remember, the hottest a coil will ever get is when you are setting up your atty, or when you're dry burning your coil to clean it and rewick. When you're vaping, and your wick is saturated and wicking properly, your coil doesn't glow, nor should it ever. The least heat you can use in order to get your coil heating evenly, the better it will be for the metal, whether you're using ss, kanthal, nichrome, or whatever; and the longer your coil will last. I have coils that I've dry burned and cleaned dozens of times, and they look like new when they're cleaned.
 

MsLoud

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316L will increase resistance as the coil heats up. That's true. But how hot it gets is dependent on the gauge wire you're using, the 'cold' resistance you're building to, and the level of charge of your battery. You could potentially overheat the wire.
I spent a good deal of my nearly 40 year welding career working with stainless steels of various alloys. The worst enemy of the integrity of stainless steel is overheating. The exact effect is too involved to get into here. But suffice it to say, the longer stainless steel is heated beyond the red stage, about 1400 degrees F, the more damaging it is. It begins to lose the properties that makes it stainless.
I have noticed on my builds the SS seems to rise around 2 degrees - if that is the correct term to use in this context. So I build to .5ish - when I fire the button and draw - the resistance goes to .7ish. Seems, in the vaping context, the SS is a expected increase? Keep in mind - I have no clue what I'm saying or trying to say but these are just the things I notice in my own experience...and I don't know what it means but it did take me a while to understand how to build using SS to get a satisfying vape.
 

Rule62

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I've definitely been letting mine get too hot. Thought you were posed to break them in slowly, then blast em a good one hehehe :facepalm:

Nope. Forget the blasting. Also, torching the wire and quenching it before winding the coils is especially bad for the metal, and unnecessary. Try setting up an atty without the torching, and power the coil with quick pulses, just enough to be sure it's firing evenly. I think you'll see an improvement, both in flavor, and longevity of the coil.
 

Rule62

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I have noticed on my builds the SS seems to rise around 2 degrees - if that is the correct term to use in this context. So I build to .5ish - when I fire the button and draw - the resistance goes to .7ish. Seems, in the vaping context, the SS is a expected increase? Keep in mind - I have no clue what I'm saying or trying to say but these are just the things I notice in my own experience...and I don't know what it means but it did take me a while to understand how to build using SS to get a satisfying vape.

Yes, that's the nature of ss wire. The resistance increases as the coil heats. That's why it works on TC mods. The board in the mod is programmed to adjust for this. It's also why kanthal doesn't work with TC. The resistance doesn't change much as the coil heats.
I like to set up kanthal at about .4 to .45 ohms. Through experimentation, I've found that if I set up 316L ss at around .3 to .33 ohms, the resistance increases to a bit over .4 ohms, when I fire the coils.
 
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