What FT Kayfun parts would you suggest picking up? I'd love a top fill cap and maybe a bigger tank but anything useful you could think of would be appreciated.
can I place the wicks on top of the deck like kayfun or do I have to stuff them in the channels as the fogger?
I'd def get a Quartz glass kit so you get full visibility and no juice reaction. Nano kits are my fav for small on the go set ups. There are a few top fill cap options... Expensive ones or clones from China. There are really a ton of Kayfun parts out there.
It's kinda in between. The build is very Kayfun... But picture the huge juice channels as the edges of the Kayfun deck... You just tuck the end tips of the wisk into the larger, top portions of the juice channels. Not all the way down... Just the chamfered out too edge.
Ok I have a HUGE issue with this thing, please let me know if any of you got it too.
The white plastic around the positive pin start to melt, it's totally bubbling when I fire the atty at 30-35W and gives me a burnt plastic flavor.
Of course I stopped using it and contacted Vapor DNA, it looks VERY dangerous to me, but I'd love to know how's your unit behaves.
Many thanks!
View attachment 403327
How did this happen? We're your coils too low and touching the plastic?Ok I have a HUGE issue with this thing, please let me know if any of you got it too.
The white plastic around the positive pin start to melt, it's totally bubbling when I fire the atty at 30-35W and gives me a burnt plastic flavor.
Of course I stopped using it and contacted Vapor DNA, it looks VERY dangerous to me, but I'd love to know how's your unit behaves.
Many thanks!
View attachment 403327
That's happened to me with peek insulators when dry firing. I know there isn't a lot of build room on the deck but if you keep the coil at least 1.5mm away from the insulator you should be fine. Unless of course your building fat 24g over a 3mm mandrel. Then it would be hard to get good spacing unless you run a very high coil. 26g, 2.5mm mandrel works for me. I wasn't quite sold on this thing Friday night but now I'm happy. I had a fill hole that wasn't quite drilled out so I fixed that and my second build was the charm. Great wicking, no leaks, really good flavor and vapor production. Now I just need to get some better tank options.Ok I have a HUGE issue with this thing, please let me know if any of you got it too.
The white plastic around the positive pin start to melt, it's totally bubbling when I fire the atty at 30-35W and gives me a burnt plastic flavor.
Of course I stopped using it and contacted Vapor DNA, it looks VERY dangerous to me, but I'd love to know how's your unit behaves.
Many thanks!
View attachment 403327
26g 8 wraps 2.4mm ID. The coils almost touched the chimney tube. Couldn't get them further and honestly it looked far enough from the insulator. I think most of the melt happened with the wicks in. I opened it because of the plastic taste and only dry fired it few times for a second (mostly to make sure they glow evenly).
I built bunch of kayfuns, russians, aqua and fogger and never experienced this issue before.
So I've got two big issues with the Silverplay. One of which makes this RTA unusable for me. As stated above, the insulator does show signs of heat deterioration when dry firing checking for unilateral heating. Let me say that this RTA is 98% great quality, smooth threading, fits together very nicely, and has great airflow as promised. Keep in mind I have not been able to actually use this device yet. MINE came with misaligned positive post holes, or hole (singular) actually. Which made it unusable, due to one of the post holes being too far down the post to properly seat the positive leg of one of my coils with the screws given. I even tried doubling back the leg that would go into the post, hoping that adding to the diameter of kanthal would help, which it didn't.
I have left a message with VaporDNA in hopes of a replacement or refund. Hopefuly find out tomorrow.