The Super-T ELA discussion and tips, tricks and Info sharing Thread:

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Killjoy1

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It will go back in to the same point, it's screwed in all the way and that position won't change from taking it out and putting it back :) That's the purpose of the washers in the P+ line, they are put in underneath the screw in order to adjust the throw, so as long as you don't add any (I don't think there are any washers on the ELA as-is) your throw won't change
 

snork

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Everything Killjoy said.
On my P+s it has never been necessary to remove the rhodium post for anything but adjusting the throw. Never need to take it out for cleaning or anything.

Now if you're feeling adventurous, the sliding lock switch slides all the way out if you keep pushing. The mechanism inside is ingenious.
 

anavidfan

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Yes it is, I took it apart the other night that I left it going for a while. Juice leaked all the way down to the bottom and I didnt realize just how much till I looked in my PV stand and saw how saturated the felt lining was.

You all dont think juice could have gotten itself inside the button mount? Going to give it a good soak in 91% Iso alcohol for a while and then give it a good blowing out with my Data Vac.
 

jasl90

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Personally, if I'm taking the time to clean my PVs I'm taking them as far apart as I can I can.
It's not to say that removing the rhodium screw is necessary but you won't know unless you remove it and check the threads. It's not like there is any real effort involved in the process.

Because of the rhodium over gold plating, I prefer to use the edge of a credit cart to loosen the screw, as opposed to a metal screwdriver. I don't want to risk scratching the plating.
 

anavidfan

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Thank you for that tip, I was thinking the same thing about scratching. I was even getting ready to go search on the net to see if there are rubber coated screwdrivers or other tools that are made for delicate surfaces. I love tools, so this was another excuse to buy tools:) but I will try the credit card first.
 

anavidfan

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Just in case anyone decides to take their bottom button apart, here are the parts. I had recently left my ELA firing for at least 45 mins. Juice oozed out and down the whole device and ended up pooling at the bottom of my PV holder. I decided to take the bottom button apart and Im glad I did. It was pretty gunky, even after it had soaked in 91% ISo alcohol. Here is a photo of what came off the q-tip when I wiped inside where the little dark pin that is under the locking plate.

I dont know if this is all from the juice or just dirt after using it since mid-june.

kbkg.jpg
 
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jasl90

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Just in case anyone decides to take their bottom button apart, here are the parts. I had recently left my ELA firing for at least 45 mins. Juice oozed out and down the whole device and ended up pooling at the bottom of my PV holder. I decided to take the bottom button apart and Im glad I did. It was pretty gunky, even after it had soaked in 91% ISo alcohol. Here is a photo of what came off the q-tip when I wiped inside where the little dark pin that is under the locking plate.

I dont know if this is all from the juice or just dirt after using it since mid-june.

kbkg.jpg

Nice job Ana! I think most people would be surprised at the amount of gunk that an alcohol soaked q-tip will drag out of there. Are you noticing improved performance?

Oh, and I think you may be the first person to post a pick of a "fully" disassembled button. This is the 1st pic I've seen with the ball assembly removed. Again, WELL DONE!
 
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Ejuice4cig

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Hello all,
I just received the ELA and I have a question regarding the adjustable cap. Currently I am using the terminator and I thought I could use that with the adjustable cap. However, when I installed the adjustable cap, the Terminator won't go on the ELA, seem like the adjustable cap is too high, which cause the ELA to not able to thread into the ELA. Is this normaL?

Thanks,
Andy
 

Blix

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Hello all,
I just received the ELA and I have a question regarding the adjustable cap. Currently I am using the terminator and I thought I could use that with the adjustable cap. However, when I installed the adjustable cap, the Terminator won't go on the ELA, seem like the adjustable cap is too high, which cause the ELA to not able to thread into the ELA. Is this normaL?

Thanks,
Andy

Perfectly normal, as the adjustable cap is made to be used with standard atomizers or cartos only. :)
 
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anavidfan

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Heres another tip for your ELA. If by any chance your locking ring starts to slip. Mine did that since yesterday. Noticed that it was getting loose. I kept having to twist it on real tight. Earlier this evening it was just slipping completely loose. I thought *%*$, now what?
Not that ELA is being finicky, its just that Ive had problems with things lately other than the ELA.

I had a part for my Ody come in bad and I had one of my Crowns die, and the other just doesn't like ELA.

I took it off and wiped it with a q-tip and alcohol and wow, what filthy. So I took it apart and washed it with hot water and hand soap. Gave another wipe with alcohol. I also washed the inner tube and wiped it with alcohol. Now its like day one.

ELA has doesn't like dirt.
 
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anavidfan

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Heres another cool trick, dont know if I got it all on my own or if I read it and stuck in my head, but.
If you want to get " air control " from your reg top cap cover, what I did was not screw down the top cap accent ring all the way, and then place your atomizer on and then screw in your adjustable center pin. This allows you to be able to screw it up or down after its attached. Your can have more air if its butted up to the bottom of your atty or less by screwing the ring down. By playing with how much you leave it loose you get more air or less.

You get a tiny gap between the top cap and accent ring, but its hardly noticable, but the extra air is really noticeable, especially if you use something like an Odysseus.
 

anavidfan

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Just broke down ELA for its weekly spa treatment, its amazing how much of a noticeable difference in performance it makes. Its a must for me to clean weekly. The Odysseus is a 510 air supply atomizer so it sweats and back vapes and all that moist vapour ends up on the contacts and top cap, and even down to the tube and on the Kick.

Good soap and water bath and a once over inside and out with alcohol keeps it going strong.
 

snork

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Here is my quick review of the Kayfun Lite which is probably all old news.
I've vaped it quite a bit over the last couple weeks. It is an easy to use, easy to maintain atomizer which delivers an excellent vape in most aspects. I appreciate how easy and neat it is to partially disassemble and clean and maintain the coil. While vapor production and throat hit are fantastic, flavor seems strangely muted. I can't imagine why either, I see no reason for that.
Portability is great with one exception: It hates rapidly going from 45 degrees Fahrenheit to 90. Leaks like a sieve under that circumstance and unfortunately I do that quite a bit at work. Machining is excellent.
It's a keeper, and I'll bet it would be killer with unflavored VG since that's sort of what my juice tastes like in it anyway.
 
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