The thread for Innokin SVD

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thunder1

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Jan 27, 2014
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That's just about exactly where I am, thunder1, except I got a sigelei 20W.

Can you let us know how that goes? With pictures?

Has anyone who did not buy the fastech "Authentic" SVD got the fire button problem? It seems to me that everyone who has said they have the problem, bought it from fasttech.

I sure will if it comes to that. Since I last posted on this I broke out the owners manual to look for any troubleshooting tips. Of course, I could not find none. So I decided to re-read it all and tried this:

Note: Before you switch between one battery and two batteries configurations, please hold the “ ” button for 5 seconds to release the remaining power in the circuit board. (when you make a switch from one battery to two batteries, the circuit board will keep the single battery settings if you haven’t released the remaining capacity; and vice versa.)

So far that has seem to have work for my firing issue. It has been doing fine since then, but still acts up not as nearly as bad and recovers right after I refire the button. Will continue to redo the method if it starts acting up again and see how far I can go with that.

On a better note, I did get my Nemesis and 3d dripper as a back up so I'm good if my SVD decides to take a dump. So far the SVD is holding up. :headbang:
 

DavidOck

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You get to add the mAh rating of the batteries, because the electronics doesn't have to work as hard to generate the 6V it uses for the PWM.

But more to the point, stacking 18350s is the only way to get up to 15W. See PBusardo's review for the details.

Well, no. In series (stacked) configuration, the voltage is added, not the mAh rating. Think of jump starting a car. You put the batteries in parallel to have the voltage stay the same but put the Amps of the good battery to the dead one. If you put them in series, you now have 24 volts to the car. Not good!

But by delivering twice the voltage to the electronics, you allow a greater range of adjustment. It's easier and more efficient for the electronics to regulate down in volt than it is to regulate up. Works for a PV, not so good for the car's computer, starter, etc.

And as with a car jump, where the batteries are obviously not match in voltage, most of the current (amps) comes from the charged one. That's why it's so important to only use matched batteries when stacking. If all (or most) of the current is coming from one, there's a good chance of catastrophic failure.
 

rurwin

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Well, no. In series (stacked) configuration, the voltage is added, not the mAh rating. Think of jump starting a car. You put the batteries in parallel to have the voltage stay the same but put the Amps of the good battery to the dead one. If you put them in series, you now have 24 volts to the car. Not good!

But by delivering twice the voltage to the electronics, you allow a greater range of adjustment. It's easier and more efficient for the electronics to regulate down in volt than it is to regulate up. Works for a PV, not so good for the car's computer, starter, etc.

Which is why I said it works "because the electronics doesn't have to work as hard to generate the 6V it uses for the PWM." The SVD uses a DC-DC conversion to change the battery voltage to one that it can use with PWM to produce the power demanded. Because stacked batteries have a higher combined voltage, the DC-DC convertor and then the PWM do not need to pull as much current out of the batteries as they would with a single 18650. So although the mAh of the 18350 is only half that of the 18650, the mod will only be drawing half the current. The result is that you get around the same battery life, and something like what you would expect by adding the mAh of the two 18350s and comparing it to the mAh of the single 18650.
 

DavidOck

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You get to add the mAh rating of the batteries, because the electronics doesn't have to work as hard to generate the 6V it uses for the PWM.

But more to the point, stacking 18350s is the only way to get up to 15W. See PBusardo's review for the details.

Which is why I said it works "because the electronics doesn't have to work as hard to generate the 6V it uses for the PWM." The SVD uses a DC-DC conversion to change the battery voltage to one that it can use with PWM to produce the power demanded. Because stacked batteries have a higher combined voltage, the DC-DC convertor and then the PWM do not need to pull as much current out of the batteries as they would with a single 18650. So although the mAh of the 18350 is only half that of the 18650, the mod will only be drawing half the current. The result is that you get around the same battery life, and something like what you would expect by adding the mAh of the two 18350s and comparing it to the mAh of the single 18650.

The source of my confusion. You add the volts, not the mAh. While the net result could well be equivalent run time, the retired electrician in me just wanted to make sure everyone knows how the physics of it works :)
 

Emilie

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Not sure what happened, but I pretty suddenly lost my first SVD.

I'll clean it up and see if it'll fire again, but it wouldn't even light up when hitting the fire button earlier today.

I have a backup, but I just purchased a backup for my backup. If my second fails, I'll find something else. Not sure what, yet, but I'd like VW.

If I can't get my first to fire again, I'll take it apart and see if I can fix/improve it.

Meanwhile, my iClear X.I keeps flooding today. Caused my backup SVD to fail until I cleaned all that juice out of the connector.

Does that mean I need a new replacement coil?
 

Hijack

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May 7, 2014
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Not sure what happened, but I pretty suddenly lost my first SVD.

I'll clean it up and see if it'll fire again, but it wouldn't even light up when hitting the fire button earlier today.

Meanwhile, my iClear X.I keeps flooding today. Caused my backup SVD to fail until I cleaned all that juice out of the connector.

Does that mean I need a new replacement coil?

I don't think youll need a new coil, just clean it with tissue and blow through the centre tube. I havnt tried the X1 but the most leak free tank ive had so far has been the Aerotank that I use with upgraded kanger coils, not even the smallest drop of juice left on the connector.

Did your SVD that wont work get flooded with juice or was it just an unexplained fail?
Wasn't sure from what you said, as you mentioned you were going to clean it up.
 

Emilie

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It happened to be flooded when the firing button finally gave up the ghost, but it was giving me a couple issues the last couple of days (not firing, mostly). That seemed to be pretty sudden, by what others have mentioned in this thread.

I really want to be able to keep using my SVDs. I LOVE this mod, but if I'm going to need to keep repurchasing them, then it's not worth it.

Where would I find one that can be unscrewed instead of pressed? I'll spend a little extra to get one I can easily get into.

I purchased the one that failed on eBay, but the one I got from a local authorized dealer was also a press-fit.
 

DavidOck

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I think they're all press fit now.

Just for grins, try the reset. With the battery out, press and hold the fire button for 5 - 10 seconds. That drains any residual voltage from the electronics, similar to a full power off to reset a confused computer. While recommended (necessary) when going from stacked to single battery configuration, it may help. Hopefully!

My SVD was purchased last October. The fire button lost it's click after about 3 months, but otherwise it's still working fine.

Good luck!
 
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