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I never saw the desire to fight murphy and his law by creating a "negative" pressure" situation to hold liquid above and around a coil deck, pass a chimney through said reservoir, and expect it not to leak down into a battery box... Way too rube goldberg device if ya ask me...
Don't get me wrong... Squonk life isn't all a rose garden either, just seems like the more simple design... Why make a zero g pen when a pencil will do...
Don't get me wrong... Squonk life isn't all a rose garden either, just seems like the more simple design... Why make a zero g pen when a pencil will do...
Top air RTAs are perhaps the most convenient atties. No need to drip/squonk and no leaking. Some of them, like the Juggerknot (Mini) or Intake (Dual) offer very good flavor as well.
But when it comes down to flavor alone, a good RDA will wipe the floor with any RTA out there. Dripping/squonking might be unconvenient at times though.
But when it comes down to flavor alone, a good RDA will wipe the floor with any RTA out there. Dripping/squonking might be unconvenient at times though.
I really do want a top-air RTA... @Shawn Hoefer had a really long thread about those (took me a couple weeks to read it all) Thanks for reminding me.
Quick update. OK... user error (I'm 60 and starting to have memory issues) Every RTA is different (how you wick them) I decided to watch some old videos and realized I made a mistake. Basically my wick job was perfect (should have just screwed the chamber on and then primed the coil/wick) I had primed it first and pressed the wick in too much (fear of it getting caught in the chamber threads) and it left quite a gap... juice just flowed right around the wick. Quick rinse, quick "dry burn" and quick re-wick and it should be fine. The very first time I built this RTA (Lemo2... it was know to not wick enough) I got some semi-dry hits. I guess I over-compensated for this (basically over thought it) Even though it's an outdated RTA, I love it (and have two more brand new ones as backup)
P.S. Now it's time to re coil/wick my Silverplay RTA (tricky and sometimes leaks) but when I get that one right it has great flavor!
P.S. Now it's time to re coil/wick my Silverplay RTA (tricky and sometimes leaks) but when I get that one right it has great flavor!
Maybe just open it up more often... lets the pressure equalize. I've never had to do that with my RTAs but it helps with one of my drop-in coil tanks (small 2 ml tank)
If I understand you correctly, that's what I had to do to my Griffin 25 RTA. It would not feed juice to the wick so I had to open the topfill cap after so many drags in order for the juice to feed up the juice channels to the wick, so I would get dry hit after so many drags. Then I found a video how to wick it and all is good.
Apparently some RTAs (or all of them?) need to have somewhat of an air passage so the tank can feed juice.
For anyone wondering what the
that means (LOL), watch the following video from 8:03 to 8:47 and you'll see what I mean. 
OK, took the RTA apart, pulled out the wick, rinsed and dried it (ready to do the wick... properly) I have rinsed/dried three tanks over the last couple days. Rinse them in the kitchen sink (with strainer in case just in case, then dry them in the bathroom. I noticed a stray o-ring by the bathroom sink (clear about 1/4 inch) It does not go to my RTAs (they all have black o-rings that size) I don't recognize this clear o-ring (don't like mysteries) My best guess is it came off the drop-in coil on my little MTL tank. From now on, I will look closer at everything (even the old drop-in coils I am throwing away) Lesson learned.
BTW, I didn't post this thread just to rant and whine about how I messed up the re-wick job. I posted it because many other people are just starting out with RTAs and hoped it would help them understand that we have times where these things just give us issues (I have done this one at least 8 times and got it right almost every time... just old fool memory issues this time) Maybe (in some way) this can help newbies.
BTW, I didn't post this thread just to rant and whine about how I messed up the re-wick job. I posted it because many other people are just starting out with RTAs and hoped it would help them understand that we have times where these things just give us issues (I have done this one at least 8 times and got it right almost every time... just old fool memory issues this time) Maybe (in some way) this can help newbies.
There is one small white oring on the Lemo 2.
It goes round the threads underneath the deck base where it screws into the airflow control base.
Inside here...
It goes round the threads underneath the deck base where it screws into the airflow control base.
Inside here...
That really does look like the o-ring but... I never separated those parts of the base... how the heck did it escape? I was going to re-wick the Lemo2 today... might have to separate those just to take a look. It does also look like one of the o-rings on my drop-in coils (Nautilus X)... not the tank but the coil itself. Thank you UJ (you are always so helpful)
@UncleJunkle , you really had me going crazy with that. When I first got the RTA, I took it apart to check out this "notorious POS connection" within the base. Cleaned it with alcohol and screwed it back together nice and tight (and never had an issue with that) Got the pliers (covered with electrical tape) separated the two base parts and the o-ring was there (and slightly larger DIA than the one I found) All is well (it didn't come form my RTA) but I gave both parts a good cleaning with alcohol anyway. Ready to re-wick) I would not have been able to sleep tonight if I had not checked this out. I am convinced it came off the drop-in coil from my Nautilus X when I removed the old one. Good ol' o-rings... so seemingly innocent (some so small) but so important. I will still check every single one from now on (even drop-in coils I am throwing away )
)
Come to think of it... that drop-in coil had issues all along (leaking) I have used those so many times before with no issues (maybe the o-ring was loose this whole time?)
Then you're probably right. Probably was from the bottom of your Naut X coil.
Have a jar full of orings and 510 pins and whatnot, all cannibalized from factory coils that I don't plan on rebuilding. I've fixed a lot of vape gear and non-vape stuff with those parts.
I'm really trying to get away from drop-in coils... have enough rebuildables/wire/pre-wound coils/wick to last a long time. However, the one thing I do like my little Nautilus X tank (drop-in coils) is for carry around (thanks for the tip on the cheap coils... the 1.8 ohm are hard to find and expensive but 1.5 ohm are fine for carry around)
On a side note... could not find anything on the iJOY RBA (but it's ok, I have coil building down and wicking... well, that's always trial and error anyway)
On a side note... could not find anything on the iJOY RBA (but it's ok, I have coil building down and wicking... well, that's always trial and error anyway)
I won't officially know if that o-ring came from the drop-in coil until I replace one the next time. The only other tank I rinsed/dried was a Kanger Subtank Mini and I just removed the base and replaced the coil (no small o-rings that I am aware of)
All drop in coils have a small oring above the 510.
I just checked - the oring on the Subtank OCC and SSOCC coils are white, too. They can be hard to see if they are a little dirty, but they're there.
I just checked - the oring on the Subtank OCC and SSOCC coils are white, too. They can be hard to see if they are a little dirty, but they're there.
The Kanger STM drop in coil has a small white silicone o-ring on the base.
Edit: looks like UJ and I posted at the same time.
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