The Vmod XL 18650 Bottom Feeding Mod from Vapage.com

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Fernand

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On the rattle front I'm with ya. I'm posting close-ups, as these two simple things just take care of the flimsy rattle completely. A piece of adhesive foam rubber from Michaels, and a big o-ring from a selection pack at Ace hardware. The shell has to be pushed down past the slightly offset o-ring and the slightly protruding foam rubber, and then feels like totally tubular, man, solid. Very different feel. The foam rubber also keeps the battery from knocking. It can go on top of an aluminum ground plate. The o-ring keeps the bottle neck from flexing and cracking.

IMG_2199xm.jpg IMG_2200xm.jpg

BTW, as an engineer, on the Kick mod, I'd say that plate should be more positively connected than just slipped into the spring. That's a connection that will introduce some resistance, but also will come and go as the spring is compressed. And one of these days, when the plate disconnects for a moment, the Kick will lose its ground reference long enough to go crazy. Any number of things could happen, from just cutting out, to spiking, burning the atty or getting damaged. After the initial test, it's really worth doing this right, like soldering or crimping in a ground lead.
 

AZCraig

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I've been running an Aero 510 1.5 ohm atomizer from Avid Vaper on my VMod XL for a couple of days now.
It's been giving me a pretty good experience... flavor is excellent, vapor production is pretty good.
I need to do a side by side test with the HH.357 510 1.5ohm atomizer to see which I prefer more, but at half the price of the HH, this stands out as a really good value for the money.
 

karmakatie

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On the rattle front I'm with ya. I'm posting close-ups, as these two simple things just take care of the flimsy rattle completely. A piece of adhesive foam rubber from Michaels, and a big o-ring from a selection pack at Ace hardware. The shell has to be pushed down past the slightly offset o-ring and the slightly protruding foam rubber, and then feels like totally tubular, man, solid. Very different feel. The foam rubber also keeps the battery from knocking. It can go on top of an aluminum ground plate. The o-ring keeps the bottle neck from flexing and cracking.

View attachment 82108 View attachment 82109

BTW, as an engineer, on the Kick mod, I'd say that plate should be more positively connected than just slipped into the spring. That's a connection that will introduce some resistance, but also will come and go as the spring is compressed. And one of these days, when the plate disconnects for a moment, the Kick will lose its ground reference long enough to go crazy. Any number of things could happen, from just cutting out, to spiking, burning the atty or getting damaged. After the initial test, it's really worth doing this right, like soldering or crimping in a ground lead.

Why couldn't a person just solder a wire coming off of the ground that is there?
 

ukeman

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I am still waiting for word back from Vapage RMA as I sent my XL in for r&r due to crack in inner plastic housing above the bottle.

Anybody tell me if a long barrel HH357 will work in the XL?
I have a custom on the way, as they were out of stock on the normal order side of things. I know, gotta wait anyway; but just wanted to ensure my order.
 

Fernand

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Why couldn't a person just solder a wire coming off of the ground that is there?

That would work fine as long as the solder binds to the different types of metal. One could crimp the wire at one end and solder at the other. Many good ways to do this. But some of the photos show metal just slipped in the spring. That will work long enough to make someone think the job is all done, but it's not solid. Two amps is a lot of current, and we don't know how the Kick is designed, how much flows through that ground connection. Even if it's just a reference, it could make it look to the regulator like it needs to pump up the voltage. Having a reliable ground is pretty basic.
 

ukeman

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I;m confident they will karma,
i sent them an email about it and their answer was that it is under 6 months warranty and ship it.
It has been received about 3 days ago, so i expect something by way of shipping notice if not the unit any time now.
I hope it's not a weak link issue, and then yeah they would need to address that.
I'm a bit hard on my mods but no more than any serious vaper.
 

Kami

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That would work fine as long as the solder binds to the different types of metal. One could crimp the wire at one end and solder at the other. Many good ways to do this. But some of the photos show metal just slipped in the spring. That will work long enough to make someone think the job is all done, but it's not solid. Two amps is a lot of current, and we don't know how the Kick is designed, how much flows through that ground connection. Even if it's just a reference, it could make it look to the regulator like it needs to pump up the voltage. Having a reliable ground is pretty basic.

Your right Fernand........Had to go back crimp and solder..thanks :)
 

karmakatie

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I;m confident they will karma,
i sent them an email about it and their answer was that it is under 6 months warranty and ship it.
It has been received about 3 days ago, so i expect something by way of shipping notice if not the unit any time now.
I hope it's not a weak link issue, and then yeah they would need to address that.
I'm a bit hard on my mods but no more than any serious vaper.

Yeah I am with you on the seious vaper thing!! I may take to using the XL's daily as an all day vape for a bit to see if it develops any problems, I have been watching the one Dad has been using daily as an only device and it is holding up good to his big hands, That things has not set a day since I got it, and has been vaped ALL day, it was from the first run of XL's, and has been a little work horse for the money. Oh and it is still using the original bottle and O rings, we have not ever filled the second bottle.
 

brian272465

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I am still waiting for word back from Vapage RMA as I sent my XL in for r&r due to crack in inner plastic housing above the bottle.

Anybody tell me if a long barrel HH357 will work in the XL?
I have a custom on the way, as they were out of stock on the normal order side of things. I know, gotta wait anyway; but just wanted to ensure my order.

I need to send my first run xl in to it has a crack in do you have to contact them first before you send it in

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
 

brian272465

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That would work fine as long as the solder binds to the different types of metal. One could crimp the wire at one end and solder at the other. Many good ways to do this. But some of the photos show metal just slipped in the spring. That will work long enough to make someone think the job is all done, but it's not solid. Two amps is a lot of current, and we don't know how the Kick is designed, how much flows through that ground connection. Even if it's just a reference, it could make it look to the regulator like it needs to pump up the voltage. Having a reliable ground is pretty basic.

I haven't had any problems yet its working like a champ. The only problem with crimping is you can't remove it and use it on other mods

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
 

Kami

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I haven't had any problems yet its working like a champ. The only problem with crimping is you can't remove it and use it on other mods

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
I did not crimp the Kick ground, it sits firmly against the metal strip, they were designed to fit like that, so it's easily removed ....I crimped the metal around the spring and soldered that connection
 

brian272465

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I did not crimp the Kick ground, it sits firmly against the metal strip, they were designed to fit like that, so it's easily removed ....I crimped the metal around the spring and soldered that connection

Ok that's what I think I'm gona do to it hasn't gave me any problems yet

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
 

Fernand

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I am still waiting for word back from Vapage RMA as I sent my XL in for r&r due to crack in inner plastic housing above the bottle.

Anybody tell me if a long barrel HH357 will work in the XL?

If you look, the whole metal feed & well is one piece, pushed in from below into the molded plastic "frame". If they made it loose, that would be a problem. If they make it fit very tight, it's good and rigid, it can't turn or jiggle, but on occasion the frame might develop a crack ... it's molded plastic. I'm not saying it should crack, maybe the plastic should be changed, or the plant foreman whipped, but I don't think it can leak or change anything. I had a small crack develop on my 1st Vmod 1.0, and I never bothered to send it in as it's really just cosmetic. I just put some glue in the crack and that was that. I'm sure they'll replace yours ASAP.

You know, it's funny, when I first encountered the (old) Vmod and its thread, I saw it as a product to evaluate. Vapage seemed over-sensitive, and I was annoyed by the "Vapage Fanboys" who justified every shortcoming. That's not what I'm doing. But now that I depend on a Vmod almost 24x7, I know the design pretty well, and I've become very pragmatic. I see some issues as important, but others to me are "is it even worth shipping it".


I don't see anything to suggest the long barrel HH357 has a different diameter, construction or connector, so it would be very strange if it didn't work the same as the short one. I expect that spitting will be less, and it will stick out above the cone. Next one I order will likely be a 1.5 ohm stainless long "custom for VG".

I did not crimp the Kick ground, ....I crimped the metal around the spring and soldered that connection

I didn't mean crimping the Kick. I meant soldering/crimping the connection from the bottom spring to the plate, like you did, sounds great.
 
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