The Womper Woom, Womp it again Sam.

[Lannie]

I'll try to explain this as I understand it. With the 26g and three wraps you'd have too little wire for .5 to get a "good" heat flux. Basically it would instantly get hot and very quickly get too hot. You need a little more mass than those 3 wraps will get you to get some good/stable heat generation. The 24g would allow you to get to the same resistance and wattage but with more mass.

If you're using a regulated device, and 26g is what you're comfortable with, add another two wraps and see how it does. It won't be the same 0.5, but since the wattage part of your mod will supply the correct amount of power anyway, that part doesn't really matter.

Thank you for that, and no I'm not especially fond of ANY wire yet. I have 24 and 26 gauge in both Kanthal and Stainless because a kind soul here on ECF sent them to me. He's been trying to get me to learn to build my own coils for a while now. He was also the one that sent me his contest Disrupter to get me to come over to the Dark Side. I wubs him.

I put 7 wraps SS326L in my isub coils no problem. I use contact coils so they fit. I'm sure you could make a spread coil if you want. They come out to around .54 or so. I use them in TC and wattage mod and they work fine. I just double checked and they use NR wire as leads so that is why they get .5 ohms with 5 wraps. The next one you take apart you can find the soldier points on the legs.

The one I put in there is reading .56 now on the Disrupter, and I have it set to 39 watts. It's OK, but I've had better. And you've solved the "mystery" surrounding the stock coils for me, thank you! That scenario had never occurred to me, and the coil was so blackened when I took it out, I didn't notice any solder points. Eeeuuuwwwww.... I will change out my coils more often from now on.

Now if there was just an easier way to get these dang things APART. I can't do it at all, and it took Rich a bit of time to manage the one yesterday. I have a pile of ten here that I'd like to re-do.

 

[Fuzzy Thunderbear]

I've been in hospital, we had some high winds and the shed door blew open and hit me on the forehead, knocked me clean out and cut my head open. Woke up in hospital with a banging head and 11 stitches, not a very good bank holiday.

OUCH! Hope you are mending. Was your vape juice stored in the shed? That way you can call it a vaping accident. Well, at least it was your head and not the family jewels. No worries, Em, guys can still love ya with a head injury...

 

[Lannie]

Lessifer explained it all quite well.

No rules says the coil has to be 0.5, build it to what you want and what will fit in the head.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not married to the idea of "it MUST be .5 ohms," either. I was simply stuck in my "WHY CAN'T I REPRODUCE THIS?" state of mind. I'm sure it's a disease of some sort. Yeah, I'm confronted with a puzzle and I'm like a dog with a bone... but the NR legs makes sense now. I had just assumed the wire was the same for the whole length of it.

 

[pokemom]

Thank you for that, and no I'm not especially fond of ANY wire yet. I have 24 and 26 gauge in both Kanthal and Stainless because a kind soul here on ECF sent them to me. He's been trying to get me to learn to build my own coils for a while now. He was also the one that sent me his contest Disrupter to get me to come over to the Dark Side. I wubs him.



The one I put in there is reading .56 now on the Disrupter, and I have it set to 39 watts. It's OK, but I've had better. And you've solved the "mystery" surrounding the stock coils for me, thank you! That scenario had never occurred to me, and the coil was so blackened when I took it out, I didn't notice any solder points. Eeeuuuwwwww.... I will change out my coils more often from now on.

Now if there was just an easier way to get these dang things APART. I can't do it at all, and it took Rich a bit of time to manage the one yesterday. I have a pile of ten here that I'd like to re-do.

If you don't want to recoil, you can also wash the coils and rewick. Do a dry burn, soak the coils to get off any ash and stuff, rewick and go.

If you really want to rebuild isub coils, you might also be interested in the rba section that they make for it. It is pretty inexpensive, I think about $8.

 

[Lannie]

If you don't want to recoil, you can also wash the coils and rewick. Do a dry burn, soak the coils to get off any ash and stuff, rewick and go.

If you really want to rebuild isub coils, you might also be interested in the rba section that they make for it. It is pretty inexpensive, I think about $8.

Yes, I've been cleaning and rewicking them for the past 8 months. I think that's a pretty good long run for ANY coil, but I was starting to lose a bit of flavor, and they were gunking up a lot faster than they used to. I still have 10 or 15 brand new ones in the box, which I could use for another 8 months or so, but I thought I'd see if I can rebuild these. Then I wouldn't have to get the RBA heads, although, as hard as these are to get apart (at least the first time, anyway), I'm thinking that might be money well spent. If I can rebuild these stock ones, though, it won't cost ANY more, because I have two lifetimes' worth of rayon and wire! LOL! These are the only tanks I have with replaceable coil heads, though. All the rest have build decks, and now that I know I can build a serviceable coil, I'm golden.

 

[Fuzzy Thunderbear]

I'm sure it's a disease of some sort.

Redhead-itis? But that's why I loves her so much... insatiable demand to know and understand...

 

[Lannie]

Redhead-itis?

Yeah, that MUST be it!

 

[Robert Cromwell]

It is a country thing. Repair do not replace.

 

[LJFinFLA]

Thank you for that, and no I'm not especially fond of ANY wire yet. I have 24 and 26 gauge in both Kanthal and Stainless because a kind soul here on ECF sent them to me. He's been trying to get me to learn to build my own coils for a while now. He was also the one that sent me his contest Disrupter to get me to come over to the Dark Side. I wubs him.



The one I put in there is reading .56 now on the Disrupter, and I have it set to 39 watts. It's OK, but I've had better. And you've solved the "mystery" surrounding the stock coils for me, thank you! That scenario had never occurred to me, and the coil was so blackened when I took it out, I didn't notice any solder points. Eeeuuuwwwww.... I will change out my coils more often from now on.

Now if there was just an easier way to get these dang things APART. I can't do it at all, and it took Rich a bit of time to manage the one yesterday. I have a pile of ten here that I'd like to re-do.

Yep those are a PITA to take apart. The top part is very flimsy and not a thick metal at all! As a matter of fact I destroyed the top of the one that I checked for you. It was one that I was going to rebuild and not a new one so we'll chalk that one up for science! I think pokemom is right though. I had been looking to buy the RBA section but just never did for some reason.

 

[Lessifer]

Don't get me wrong, I'm not married to the idea of "it MUST be .5 ohms," either. I was simply stuck in my "WHY CAN'T I REPRODUCE THIS?" state of mind. I'm sure it's a disease of some sort. Yeah, I'm confronted with a puzzle and I'm like a dog with a bone... but the NR legs makes sense now. I had just assumed the wire was the same for the whole length of it.

My first "rebuild" was in a T3 head, tiny little coil in a tiny little space. With those, the rebuild never matched the stock because at the time they were using something like 34g mystery wire, and 32g K was a vast improvement. For me it was always building to whatever my power source could handle. That is one of the good points of regulated devices, the resistance of your build is much less important, just get a good coil and adjust your power accordingly.

All of my build "education" came from before steam engine, it was all trial and error and a lot of metering(back when I just had a cheap multimeter and would have to work really hard to get the leads in the right places). I followed the big micro coil thread at the time and there was lots of experimentation going on. That's where that "optimal" 8-10 wrap micro(1/16") comes from. Steam engine is an excellent tool, but there's no substitute for just trying something out and seeing how it works.

 

[Lannie]

It is a country thing. Repair do not replace.

PerZACKly!

 

[Lannie]

Yep those are a PITA to take apart. The top part is very flimsy and not a thick metal at all! As a matter of fact I destroyed the top of the one that I checked for you. It was one that I was going to rebuild and not a new one so we'll chalk that one up for science! I think pokemom is right though. I had been looking to buy the RBA section but just never did for some reason.

Hence why they say to use small screwdrivers inserted through the wick hole and the one in the base and wiggling them to and fro until they come loose. I put a couple of small nicks on mine when I was trying to get it back together yesterday, until I thought to use the knife. A small flat piece of metal would be much better than a long, heavy, butter knife. I'll ask Rich if he has some piece of scrap out in the shop I could have for that purpose. It would be EASIER to take them apart with two pairs of pliers, which is what I assume you did? And that's what munched it? Anyway, it will take some fiddling, but if it proves to be more trouble than it's worth, there are always the RBAs.

My first "rebuild" was in a T3 head, tiny little coil in a tiny little space. With those, the rebuild never matched the stock because at the time they were using something like 34g mystery wire, and 32g K was a vast improvement. For me it was always building to whatever my power source could handle. That is one of the good points of regulated devices, the resistance of your build is much less important, just get a good coil and adjust your power accordingly.

All of my build "education" came from before steam engine, it was all trial and error and a lot of metering(back when I just had a cheap multimeter and would have to work really hard to get the leads in the right places). I followed the big micro coil thread at the time and there was lots of experimentation going on. That's where that "optimal" 8-10 wrap micro(1/16") comes from. Steam engine is an excellent tool, but there's no substitute for just trying something out and seeing how it works.

Yes, and although I do have a mech, I'm not using it just yet. I can "learn" on my regulateds, and when I better understand everything, then I'll have the skills needed to make it work with a mech mod.

I think you probably all know this already, but just in case, I want you to know how much I appreciate all this help. I know it's not easy trying to explain simple (to you) things to someone who doesn't understand yet, and I just want you to know that I DO appreciate the time you're taking to help me with this.

 

[LJFinFLA]

My first "rebuild" was in a T3 head, tiny little coil in a tiny little space. With those, the rebuild never matched the stock because at the time they were using something like 34g mystery wire, and 32g K was a vast improvement. For me it was always building to whatever my power source could handle. That is one of the good points of regulated devices, the resistance of your build is much less important, just get a good coil and adjust your power accordingly.

All of my build "education" came from before steam engine, it was all trial and error and a lot of metering(back when I just had a cheap multimeter and would have to work really hard to get the leads in the right places). I followed the big micro coil thread at the time and there was lots of experimentation going on. That's where that "optimal" 8-10 wrap micro(1/16") comes from. Steam engine is an excellent tool, but there's no substitute for just trying something out and seeing how it works.

Agree with you totally. Now when I build my RTA's I build the coils for the deck, not at what ohms I want. I want my build to fit between the posts and take as much advantage of the space available. Especially when I building claptons or staple builds. Like you said, what ever the ohms I adjust the power accordingly.

 

[Woofer]

I've been in hospital, we had some high winds and the shed door blew open and hit me on the forehead, knocked me clean out and cut my head open. Woke up in hospital with a banging head and 11 stitches, not a very good bank holiday.

Yeah but how is the door? Have you called a joiner?
At least the neighbour didn't run you over with a mower while you were unconcho.

Glad you are OK Rix, getting one in the head is no fun at all.

 

[LJFinFLA]

Hence why they say to use small screwdrivers inserted through the wick hole and the one in the base and wiggling them to and fro until they come loose. I put a couple of small nicks on mine when I was trying to get it back together yesterday, until I thought to use the knife. A small flat piece of metal would be much better than a long, heavy, butter knife. I'll ask Rich if he has some piece of scrap out in the shop I could have for that purpose. It would be EASIER to take them apart with two pairs of pliers, which is what I assume you did? And that's what munched it? Anyway, it will take some fiddling, but if it proves to be more trouble than it's worth, there are always the RBAs.

Your correct!
I do normally use the screw drivers but I was in a hurry to get it apart to check and used a pair of pliers instead of the screw drivers.

 

[Fuzzy Thunderbear]

I'll ask Rich if he has some piece of scrap out in the shop I could have for that purpose.

How about a C-clamp to put it back together? It would provide perfect vertical alignment without the threat of squishing by using pliers... just a thought...

 

[LJFinFLA]

How about a C-clamp to put it back together? It would provide perfect vertical alignment without the threat of squishing by using pliers... just a thought...

Nice! That might work well!!!

 

[Lessifer]

Hence why they say to use small screwdrivers inserted through the wick hole and the one in the base and wiggling them to and fro until they come loose. I put a couple of small nicks on mine when I was trying to get it back together yesterday, until I thought to use the knife. A small flat piece of metal would be much better than a long, heavy, butter knife. I'll ask Rich if he has some piece of scrap out in the shop I could have for that purpose. It would be EASIER to take them apart with two pairs of pliers, which is what I assume you did? And that's what munched it? Anyway, it will take some fiddling, but if it proves to be more trouble than it's worth, there are always the RBAs.



Yes, and although I do have a mech, I'm not using it just yet. I can "learn" on my regulateds, and when I better understand everything, then I'll have the skills needed to make it work with a mech mod.

I think you probably all know this already, but just in case, I want you to know how much I appreciate all this help. I know it's not easy trying to explain simple (to you) things to someone who doesn't understand yet, and I just want you to know that I DO appreciate the time you're taking to help me with this.

It's a pleasure, not a chore. There may be some in the vaping community who look down on newer vapers, I haven't met them. For me, sharing knowledge is a joy, so any chance I get to share what little I have.

There's something so rewarding about planning a build, making it happen, and enjoying the results. Like a good meal that you get to experience over and over.

 

[Lannie]

Yeah but how is the door? Have you called a joiner?
At least the neighbour didn't run you over with a mower while you were unconcho.

Glad you are OK Rix, getting one in the head is no fun at all.

How about a C-clamp to put it back together? It would provide perfect vertical alignment without the threat of squishing by using pliers... just a thought...

But a little 1/2" square of metal would be SMALLER, and could go in my little coiling kit toolbox.

(Uh-oh, we're doin' a Rixy/Emma kind of thing again...)

 

[LJFinFLA]

For all us Happily Married men and our Lovely Thoughtful Wives!

THE AWESOME POWER OF A WIFE'S LOVE

A very old man lay dying in his bed.

In death's doorway, he suddenly smelled the aroma of his favorite
chocolate chip cookie wafting up the stairs.

He gathered his remaining strength and lifted himself from the bed.

Leaning against the wall, he slowly made his way out of the bedroom,
and with even greater effort forced himself down the stairs, gripping
the railing with both hands.

With labored breath, he leaned against the door frame, gazing into the kitchen.

Were it not for death's agony, he would have thought himself already in heaven.

There, spread out on newspapers on the kitchen table were literally
hundreds of his favorite chocolate chip cookies.

Was it heaven? Or was it one final act of heroic love from his devoted
wife, seeing to it that he left this world a happy man?

Mustering one great final effort, he threw himself toward the table.

The aged and withered hand, shaking, made its way to a cookie at the
edge of the table, when he was suddenly smacked with a spatula by his
wife.

"Stay out of those," she said. "They're for the funeral."