Just looked at the stone. That's bordering on tacky. Like gold statues and leopard print furniture.
Yeah, no.
Yeah, no.
The Womper Woom, Womp it again Sam.
- Thread starter Lessifer
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Ahhh. You must have the really bright stuff. 
I was thinking more of a subdued color that some of that stone comes in.
I was thinking more of a subdued color that some of that stone comes in.
Things I have recently learned by the Coolerat.
Two sets of Boden sticks is the way to go.
Installing radiators on a deck the size of a Gemini (medium smallish) is not for the faint of heart.
28ga parallels at 8wraps gave me .42. My SWAG was .4 so not bad.
Wicking this setup is, uh, not easy.
At a 25w breakin level they will fog a room pretty quick. I'm planning to settle in 40-50. Should be cloudy.
Odds of rewicking these do not favor me.
New rayon still tastes like the North end of a Southbound moose.
Two sets of Boden sticks is the way to go.
Installing radiators on a deck the size of a Gemini (medium smallish) is not for the faint of heart.
28ga parallels at 8wraps gave me .42. My SWAG was .4 so not bad.
Wicking this setup is, uh, not easy.
At a 25w breakin level they will fog a room pretty quick. I'm planning to settle in 40-50. Should be cloudy.
Odds of rewicking these do not favor me.
New rayon still tastes like the North end of a Southbound moose.
First impressions of the Quad Flex...
OK, shoulda been a no brainer to use the RDTA, since, lo and behold, that's what's already assembled in the box! Nope. Atty Error, Check Atty, etc, no matter what I put it on. Careful inspection shows no reason for a problem. Unscrew the deck, screw it into the rda base, every mod reads it just fine. Screw it back into the RDTA base, no luck. In a moment of insight I remove the glass from the RDTA section and screw the deck into it. Guess what??? Now it's fine. The glass is too tall to allow it to screw all the way into the base properly apparently.
I give up for tonight. Since the 510 pin on the deck unscrews to allow it be swapped with the bf pin, I'll try slightly unscrewing it without removing it to see if I can get the RDTA base to work. But I'm done playing for tonight.
OK, shoulda been a no brainer to use the RDTA, since, lo and behold, that's what's already assembled in the box! Nope. Atty Error, Check Atty, etc, no matter what I put it on. Careful inspection shows no reason for a problem. Unscrew the deck, screw it into the rda base, every mod reads it just fine. Screw it back into the RDTA base, no luck. In a moment of insight I remove the glass from the RDTA section and screw the deck into it. Guess what??? Now it's fine. The glass is too tall to allow it to screw all the way into the base properly apparently.
I give up for tonight. Since the 510 pin on the deck unscrews to allow it be swapped with the bf pin, I'll try slightly unscrewing it without removing it to see if I can get the RDTA base to work. But I'm done playing for tonight.
I've got mine washed, but don't feel like building it tonight, but I'll start with the RDTA and let you know if I have the same problem. I figure my most use will be as an RDA, but I'm going to try all 4 setups.First impressions of the Quad Flex...
OK, shoulda been a no brainer to use the RDTA, since, lo and behold, that's what's already assembled in the box! Nope. Atty Error, Check Atty, etc, no matter what I put it on. Careful inspection shows no reason for a problem. Unscrew the deck, screw it into the RDA base, every mod reads it just fine. Screw it back into the RDTA base, no luck. In a moment of insight I remove the glass from the RDTA section and screw the deck into it. Guess what??? Now it's fine. The glass is too tall to allow it to screw all the way into the base properly apparently.
I give up for tonight. Since the 510 pin on the deck unscrews to allow it be swapped with the bf pin, I'll try slightly unscrewing it without removing it to see if I can get the RDTA base to work. But I'm done playing for tonight.
wow, that's beautiful!!! Yeah the green one isn't right, but maybe an amber or brass. A forest type green might be nice, just depends. I'm kinda thinkin moss on the wood.
Glad it's there. Congrats on your daughter being pregnant!!
First impressions of the Quad Flex...
OK, shoulda been a no brainer to use the RDTA, since, lo and behold, that's what's already assembled in the box! Nope. Atty Error, Check Atty, etc, no matter what I put it on. Careful inspection shows no reason for a problem. Unscrew the deck, screw it into the RDA base, every mod reads it just fine. Screw it back into the RDTA base, no luck. In a moment of insight I remove the glass from the RDTA section and screw the deck into it. Guess what??? Now it's fine. The glass is too tall to allow it to screw all the way into the base properly apparently.
I give up for tonight. Since the 510 pin on the deck unscrews to allow it be swapped with the bf pin, I'll try slightly unscrewing it without removing it to see if I can get the RDTA base to work. But I'm done playing for tonight.
Well I couldn't stand looking at the parts just sitting there, so I went ahead and built the RDTA, and you are right @kad2371 , right out of the box it does not read the coils in RDTA setup. Because of your post I checked it before I put in juice. I looked at it and just backed out the center pin a little, then it worked fine. I put in the included claptons, came out to .35Ω, lots lower than I am used to. I can't do 75 watts, max of my Pico, WoW Too Hot, seem to have settled in at 40 watts and it is not bad, still drinks juice like crazy, I have gone through a normal days supply in the last hour or so, as such I did mix up some 3mg, was getting a buzz from the 6mg. I don't like that I can't put on a longer drip tip, just too close to the coils IMO, and if it pops you get a splatter of juice in the mouth, not real fond of that. These claptons don't cool down fast either, I don't think I like them, but going to keep trying it to make sure.
Not sure about doing it as a dripper with these coils, as fast as it eats juice I will only get a couple of hits and have to drip again, which would be a PITA. I'll use it this way for a couple of days and then try it in dripper mode before I put in the bottom feed pin. 
I went crazy on older RDA's yesterday from aquavaporcig, got 9 coming, can't argue with the price after 70% off, and old stuff works just fine.
GO-W Plus Youde IGO-W Plus Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer Kit - $7.95
Trident RDA V2 Ehpro Trident V2 RDA - $8.95
NIMBUS RDA Ehpro Nimbus RDA - $3.95 (already have one, just need to drill out the air hole)
Atomic RDA Ehpro Atomic RDA - $7.50
Tobeco Stillare Rebuildable Atomizer Tobeco Stillare Rebuildable Atomizer-$6.95
Tobeco Tobh Atty Rebuildable Atomizer Tobeco Tobh Atty Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - $6.95
Tobeco Tobh v2.5 Atty Rebuildable Atomizer Tobeco Tobh v2.5 Atty Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - $6.95
Smoktech-X-Pure-RDA Smoktech X-Pure RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - $11.95
Freakshow-Mini-RDA- Freakshow Mini RDA by Wotofo - $19.95
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal: $81.10
Discount: $56.77
Shipping: $0.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $24.33
Nice deal Burnie!
I haven't used my Limitless Plus in quite a while so I decided to rebuild it with 28ga Ni200, which I also haven't used in ages. Ended up with a dual coil reading .12 ohm on the VT133. Had to do 25 wraps each on a 3.5mm rod. 50 wraps of wire! It fit fine. Right now I'm breaking them in at 420 degrees and 65 watts. So far so good.
I haven't used my Limitless Plus in quite a while so I decided to rebuild it with 28ga Ni200, which I also haven't used in ages. Ended up with a dual coil reading .12 ohm on the VT133. Had to do 25 wraps each on a 3.5mm rod. 50 wraps of wire! It fit fine. Right now I'm breaking them in at 420 degrees and 65 watts. So far so good.
Good Deals!! Man, I haven't ordered from AVC in a long time.. Think the last thing I got from them was their original 510 Cigalike kit..
That is just psychotic...
You have them spaced like you have to with Ni200 wire?
I have some 26g Ni200, I should try it in the L+. I also don't know how you got 0.12 ohms, SE shows that build at 0.38?
Coil wrapping
That is just psychotic...
You have them spaced like you have to with Ni200 wire?
I have some 26g Ni200, I should try it in the L+. I also don't know how you got 0.12 ohms, SE shows that build at 0.38?
Coil wrapping
Me either!
I put in steam engine for a single .4 coil which is 25 wraps on 3.5 I figured that with 2 it would half my resistance to .2 which is where I wanted it to be. After I put them in the Plus it read .12 on both my coilmaster and in the VT133. I just wrapped them as tight as I could. I used a china mandrel. I'll have to check if it really is measuring at 3.5mm. Here's a couple of pics. 
Good to have confirmation that backing the pin out solves it. Not an ideal solution, since that means figuring out the right depth for the pin every time I want to swap things around. Assuming it's decent I will primarily use it as a bf RDA, so maybe it will just never get used as an RDTA anyway.Well I couldn't stand looking at the parts just sitting there, so I went ahead and built the RDTA, and you are right @kad2371 , right out of the box it does not read the coils in RDTA setup. Because of your post I checked it before I put in juice. I looked at it and just backed out the center pin a little, then it worked fine. I put in the included claptons, came out to .35Ω, lots lower than I am used to. I can't do 75 watts, max of my Pico, WoW Too Hot, seem to have settled in at 40 watts and it is not bad, still drinks juice like crazy, I have gone through a normal days supply in the last hour or so, as such I did mix up some 3mg, was getting a buzz from the 6mg. I don't like that I can't put on a longer drip tip, just too close to the coils IMO, and if it pops you get a splatter of juice in the mouth, not real fond of that. These claptons don't cool down fast either, I don't think I like them, but going to keep trying it to make sure.
Didn't feel like playing with it last night like I had planned, so maybe tonight.
Yea I don't think any of them are BF ready, and I don't have the tools or experience to do it either.
Wow that's a pile o wire...Me either!
It was my understanding that Ni200 doesn't form an oxidization layer between the wraps so that is why they have to be spaced. I am wondering if you are getting shorts between the loops causing your lower resistance.
Wow that's a pile o wire...
- Status
Similar threads
