Well something from he inside is shorting to the chimney. Maybe it's leaning a bit or cross threaded when you put it on. Put the chimney on then snap a picture as close as you can from the top down.
Give me a minute, I have to re-install the coil
Well something from he inside is shorting to the chimney. Maybe it's leaning a bit or cross threaded when you put it on. Put the chimney on then snap a picture as close as you can from the top down.
It actually looks like the top screw in this picture overhangs the lip. Is that the angle or is tjenscrew too big ? The rba comes with replacement screws right ? If so replace them.
![]()
Can you remove he top cap and show us just he chimney or is that not possible ? It's been a while since I worked with one but we can't see past the top cap on that photo.
That's what the other photo was (the one where you said it might be the screw). That's how it looks without the chimney
So, with the rda OFF the base, do you get a reasonable resistance reading? (Your Tab will show non for an OPEN circuit, not a short. We ARE talking about an open circuit (aka non, check atomizer, etc.), yes?
If not, something wrong with the rda.
If so, put it in the base (again) and check again. If NON, and if the rba read ok off the base, then the connection between the base and the rda is the culprit. Try pushing the base pin in a tad, with the rba off. Then reassemble and try again...
Series A from a fellow member... got another one on the wayOh you got the series b! How do you like it ? Good looking combo.
Changing the screws didn't help![]()
Let's be clear on this, Chels.
Are you getting a high (too high, too high to read) resistance, or are you getting NO resistance?
Most of my regulated mods will say "check atomizer" when there's no tank on, that is HIGH resistance. My Tab 521 will say NON in the same situation. Mods and Tab will say 0.00 if shorted. Problems are different, troubleshooting is different.
If the base is OK (which seems to be the case since it is working with other heads),
I would A) hold the new RBA head next to an old working RBA and make sure they are identical B) Try the screws in the old working RBA head in the new RBA head
Yes! I had an issue where one coil head was like a hair longer than another between the part that sits in the base and the end of the bottom pin. The longer coil head pushed the pin in the base out so then the shorter one wouldn't wouldn't work because it could no longer make the connection in the base.Ok, this tell me that no connection is being made from the rba to the base. Compare the rba that is not working with one that is....side by side. Is one longer than the other? It should not be but doesn't hurt to look. Try the non working rba in another base. Same problem?
I'm getting "non" when it's in the base on the ohm meter and when I put it directly on the ohm meter, with no base, I get .60
I should mention the base works fine for other RBAs
But changing the screws, I was just trying everything
Yes! I had an issue where one coil head was like a hair longer than another between the part that sits in the base and the end of the bottom pin. The longer coil head pushed the pin in the base out so then the shorter one wouldn't wouldn't work because it could no longer make the connection in the base.
Well, if you're really truing everything, try a KF2
Ok, then, NON when on the base, 0.60 when reading just the rda. Rda and coil are ok - IF they make contact with the pin on the base, which they're apparently not. Problem is an OPEN, not a short
Yep with the rba out, try pusing the base pin up a tad, attach rda firmly, try again.
hold them against each such that the bottom parts are touching the flat metal parts above the thread (does that make sense without a picture?). I can take a pic with 2 coils heads (aerotank/protank style heads) to demonstrateSo if that's the case (I checked and they look the same size to me), I'm SOL?