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For tonight? Tonight I am vaping mouse brain! MUHAHAHAHAAHA!!
You know, now that I look at it, it indeed does look like vaping mouse brains
Looks right To Me.
LOL
Maybe it's not a new thing, but I just saw they released some 'special edition' colors of the Topside OG. VaporDNA and MVS both have them. Probably just a new thing to me, but thought the new colors were interesting.
I've only had my dual for a few days, but really happy with it. I think I'm holding off on the Drone now, and will pick up either a YiHi dual, or even just another dual instead.
Switched over to my Topside OG the past few days (from my Pulse 80). I keep gravitating back to the Pulse since I take it out of the house with me all the time. I went ahead and built another C4 for the Topside so I don't have to swap attys all the time. It will see more use now, the Topside at home, and the Pulse out and about.
Anyways, I went ahead and ordered another Topside today, this time in the Black/Grey special edition color. No idea what it will look like in person, will have to see.
No leaks on my OGs, or my dual, but I make sure not to overfill the bottle. Also no battery door issues. I have no complaints with mine obviously, or I wouldn't have bother with the new one today.
I've only had my dual for a few days, but really happy with it. I think I'm holding off on the Drone now, and will pick up either a YiHi dual, or even just another dual instead.
Switched over to my Topside OG the past few days (from my Pulse 80). I keep gravitating back to the Pulse since I take it out of the house with me all the time. I went ahead and built another C4 for the Topside so I don't have to swap attys all the time. It will see more use now, the Topside at home, and the Pulse out and about.
Anyways, I went ahead and ordered another Topside today, this time in the Black/Grey special edition color. No idea what it will look like in person, will have to see.
No leaks on my OGs, or my dual, but I make sure not to overfill the bottle. Also no battery door issues. I have no complaints with mine obviously, or I wouldn't have bother with the new one today.
My personal impression was that the VTX200 squonk was very competitive with the drone 250c. It came down mostly to weight, hand feel, (which the VTX won), battery compartment quality, squonk bottle quality (which the drone won).
My rebuild of the VTX200 has been delayed because I managed misplace a part twice
I did get it apart though and I suspect the VTX may actually be slightly more rugged than the drone. It’s basically all plastic but the plastic is thicker and tougher than the drone plastics for all that it has a zinc frame.
Is it true that the Drone caps off at 6 volts as many websites say? That don't sound right being a 250c. That alone would be my main deal breaker for it not to mention I have seen a few already with cracks and chips in the ultim/ plastic body.
This is why many have leaking problems I was using thin needle caps to fill for the first 2-3 months of use and zero leakage, after that I was using a bullet bottle with a twist cap and I noticed it was soaked on the inner bottle wall when I took the bottle out.
The DNA250C manual says 10v. But it can be different I believe depending on how many cells is feeding it.
Are those you seen chipped and cracked pre-production Drones? Those are the only ones I've seen. I haven't seen any chipped / cracked post production Drones. That is why there was a delay in releasing them. As they changed to a better material. My 2 post production Drones haven't chipped or cracked.
A DNA250C board powered by 2 cells has a maximum voltage output around 6.5 volts with a 0.5 ohm load, sorry but I don't have an exact figure.
For a DNA200 max voltage is 6.0 volts.
DNA250 is 6.2 volts.
For a DNA200 max voltage is 6.0 volts.
DNA250 is 6.2 volts.
I don’t know but I can check later tonight. I vaguely remember 10v for the 250c. Could be wrong though
UPDATE: bah. The drone isn’t showing me any data. I need to mod this stupid GUI. Yay. I get to learn yet another piece of software.
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I'm a bit surprised, the SS430 coil I used had a cold resistance of 5.96 ohms, firing @ 200 watts voltage output was 7.46 volts.
The live resistance would have climbed to 7.5 ohm area.
Note the wattage dropped to 74.49 watts so,
A coil with a lower resistance would be needed to get the wattage up but the end voltage vs the resistance of the coil that I used matches up with Ohm's Law
A coil made from Kanthal or Nichrome with a resistance of 0.21 ohms would be needed for me to do this test.
The live resistance would have climbed to 7.5 ohm area.
Note the wattage dropped to 74.49 watts so,
A coil with a lower resistance would be needed to get the wattage up but the end voltage vs the resistance of the coil that I used matches up with Ohm's Law
A coil made from Kanthal or Nichrome with a resistance of 0.21 ohms would be needed for me to do this test.
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Here's a little better example, using SS316 here so there isn't that great of a resistance change.
167 watts, 6.82 volts @ 0.28 ohms.
167 watts, 6.82 volts @ 0.28 ohms.
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Weren’t you the guy who sent me the pic on the evolv site about that ZIF connector? Can’t be too many reddy kilowatt avatars around. If so thanks! It got me back on track.
Now if I can just get another set of buttons from vapecige I can finish the repair guide. Already got some screen protector plastic picked out. I got to have the buttons to close up the mod though. Could be awhile.
That was me.
I tried to disassemble my Vapecige box today but couldn't do it. Either the screen was stuck in it's cradle and I didn't notice or the 510 needs to be unsoldered first. I pretty much gave up. The 510 leaks.
It looks to me that they might have soldered the wires on the 510 socket while the 510 was fully assembled.
I have pics. You don’t. You unscre and pull the 510 loose, then twist the interior chassis inside the case.
Can’t help with a leaking 510 though. That you might have to desolder, replace/repair, and resolder
UPDATE: and watch out for the battery springs. They will fly if you are not careful.
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