In other words it's a MUST have for a REO literally. Not so much a vmod. My trident wouldn't work on a REO, my squid might fit. With an adapter looks doo doo. Where the rm2 might not look so sharp on a vmod..
He should of answered the question agreed but, the man is very hands on. Can't think of any other owner like that. I'll post exact dimensions of the rm2 later. No time now to measure. Long day.
IMO you're better off saving your money since you're capable of modifying an rda. I'm not impressed with it. I had to drill out one of my posts. An entirely new hole since the almost none existent one that was there was completely misaligned. For $43 I shouldn't have to do that. Not huge though. The feed hole is on the bottom and recessed which allows dripped liquid to mix with the bottle liquid. Ruined one, almost whole bottle as it drew some completely different liquid in. Last, for me and my SS wicks I'd prefer a centered post and an offset one. Rather than two offset posts. Allow more room for my wicks to wrap around and sit on the base more flush and absorb liquid more efficiently.
Positives are, decent construction, screwed top cap that aligns perfectly, ceramic inner base, work fairly well with REO, and a good size on the REO because a decent sized portion sits in the catch cup... Would sit up and out on our vmods..
I'll post pictures and dimensions later...
Outer diameter 15mm. Total height including 510 27mm.
Top to lowest inner base 22mm. Top to outer lower base 18mm. Inner lower base diameter 12mm.
Doesn't fit on my vmod without the 510 adapter
Would look odd I believe and not secure the shell because the inner lower base fits within the shell but, not the chamber. It's a MUST have for the REO, not the vmod...
I wonder why they didn't just cut the deck flat on the reo and flush mount a flush atty? maybe the little bump is the only thing keeping it from really just looking like a too simple square box? plus that atty design pretty much insures most will just buy that instead of another somewhere else I guess, I do def like the ceramic funnel base I just don't like how much chrome plated brass there is, I'd rather have 100% stainless steel in an atty I think, the igo's are great for what they are, prolly one of the best bargains in advanced vaping equipment

I wonder why they didn't just cut the deck flat on the reo and flush mount a flush atty? maybe the little bump is the only thing keeping it from really just looking like a too simple square box? plus that atty design pretty much insures most will just buy that instead of another somewhere else I guess, I do def like the ceramic funnel base I just don't like how much chrome plated brass there is, I'd rather have 100% stainless steel in an atty I think, the igo's are great for what they are, prolly one of the best bargains in advanced vaping equipment








Big thanks goes to this thread and all of the tutorials provided, they were a big help and took a lot of the guess work out of the equation. One thing I would do differently is I would drill the top cap one size smaller. I used a 1/16th drill bit, drilled one hole, and it's on the airy side, especially after using mostly slant coils. First cotton wick coil build went amazingly easy, again thanks to this thread & others that I have read on the subject. I did drill out the 510/510adapter air holes on both sides to aid in liquid delivery. It still takes a harder sqwoonk than it did with the slant coils, so I may play with that some. I also did have to use two O-rings to keep it from leaking out the top where it contacts the VMod. All in all though, I'm happy with it. I now have a rebuildable to use along with the way expensive slant coil atty's. Tomorrow we shall see how it looks with my wood cover, I think it's going to look "tree"-men-dus!!! Oh, P.S. Just about finished the 2.0 woody, just have to stain & wax, and build the bottom + add magnets. Vape On VModders!