Vape Forward Stout thread

[Marc411]

Glad you found it Matty.

Anyone else looking to upgrade here's a link, scroll to the bottom of the page. They have the firmware for Windows and Mac. I saved it locally, unzipped it.

Attach your device, I did it with the battery out.
Double click the UpdateWismec.exe file
It will launch a window and recognize the device.
Select the Stout_V2.00.bin file and say OK

stout - Wismec Electronics Co.,Ltd

 

[RickCain]

I upgraded just fine with the battery in the device.


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[Marc411]

Nice, thanks for posting that Rick.

I'm not sure why but I always pulled my battery when I upgrade.

 

[RickCain]

I see many people do that and wonder why. My thought is someone had a problem, at one time, and thought the battery was causing the problem.

I don't think it matters either way.

 

[Jake67]

I see many people do that and wonder why. My thought is someone had a problem, at one time, and thought the battery was causing the problem.

I don't think it matters either way.

I think that removing the battery when upgrading started with upgrading the SX MINI M. Some people were having issues connecting the mod to the upgrade software. I had to leave the battery in to upgrade my Mini's
I think Yihi was the first to bring user upgrades to the market.
I really like the look and feel of the Stout . I'm really curious to see what the numbers look like. As this is my first mod in a really long time from the more popular priced China mods I'm finding significant differences in wattage / temp. Been strictly using the various SX Mini's
Hopefully Phil B will get to it sooner than later. I'm still having an issue with the mod reading new coil/ or same coil in temp mode.
Battery life has been really excellent.
Hope it turns out to a reliable, stable mod for all of us.


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[Marc411]

Jake, did the ramp up get better or is it still a problem?

Mine still doesn't pick up the new coil every time but the resistance has been right on every swap. How's the resistance once you load a new tank?

 

[Jake67]

I increased the wattage from what I am used to and that has helped. I'm still having the new coil issue and every once in a while I hit the fire button and nothing no vapor. I'm @ 470 degrees / 45?watts on 0.08 Nickel build.
My norm is 360 @ 28-30 jewels and the Vape is warmer than the stout. Not comparing the boards just a guide


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[Marc411]

You might want to reach out for VF Jake, when I had a problem with my DNA Flask they were real helpful.

It's a drag your having issues.

Are you clearing the mod and hitting the power button to get a no atomizer error before putting on a new atty?

 

[Jake67]

I am now. I never messed with the Evolve chip so I didn't know about that feature. I went from ego's to Provari and on to the SX Mini series. I was told that if the resistance is the same that feature won't engage.
I was reading from the manual and the English was clear so I thought the instructions were accurate. Lolol



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[Marc411]

Did it work?

And you're lucky that you didn't jump on the DNA40 when it first came out. I wish I could say the same

 

[k2zs]

So far I'm not very impressed. Temp control seems flaky compared to my experience with the DNA200. I'm using a Kanger Subtank with an NI coil and had my resistance locked in at .17 ohms. Left it to sit for a while and when I returned it was at .12 ohms even though it was locked in. I couldn't get a decent draw at that setting, cold with no vapor unless I took it from 440f to almost 600f.

Unsrcewed the atty and fired, (got no atty warning), screwed the atty back down and answered yes to new coil. It read it at .16 ohms (cuz it was warm already) so I locked it in again. Seems OK now but I'll wait and see what happens when the atty cools to room temp again.

This is pretty much the same thing that happened with my IPV D2 and this atty. I'd have to "pre heat" the coil to get a higher resistance before it vaped well. Why won't it work with a room temp coil?

 

[Jake67]

I just swapped my 0.06 ohm NI build for a 1.00 ohm Kanthal build and the device fired. No new coil up/same down. Sent an email to VF will see what they have to say.
Hopefully they will respond quickly.
I also have been doing some research and have been reading the Evic VT MINI thread and it seems that VT has the same problem. Maybe a poor connection point , maybe it's the software.


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[k2zs]

What are the 3 TC modes M1,M2,M3 about in the new 2.0 firmware? Are they just memories? If so, what TC mode are they in (NI,TI, or SS)?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

So far I'm not very impressed. Temp control seems flaky compared to my experience with the DNA200. I'm using a Kanger Subtank with an NI coil and had my resistance locked in at .17 ohms. Left it to sit for a while and when I returned it was at .12 ohms even though it was locked in. I couldn't get a decent draw at that setting, cold with no vapor unless I took it from 440f to almost 600f.

Unsrcewed the atty and fired, (got no atty warning), screwed the atty back down and answered yes to new coil. It read it at .16 ohms (cuz it was warm already) so I locked it in again. Seems OK now but I'll wait and see what happens when the atty cools to room temp again.

This is pretty much the same thing that happened with my IPV D2 and this atty. I'd have to "pre heat" the coil to get a higher resistance before it vaped well. Why won't it work with a room temp coil?

to be honest i would be wary about blaming the mod in this this case. The kanger Ni coil heads are notoriously...errr....crap and this kind of behaviour is not unusual. I had a pack and managed to et a decent vape out of two of them!

 

[MattyRetro]

to be honest i would be wary about blaming the mod in this this case. The kanger Ni coil heads are notoriously...errr....crap and this kind of behaviour is not unusual. I had a pack and managed to et a decent vape out of two of them!

I concur. TC heads can be flaky. Try building a TC coil on the RBA deck and go from there.

 

[nclobo]

What are the 3 TC modes M1,M2,M3 about in the new 2.0 firmware? Are they just memories? If so, what TC mode are they in (NI,TI, or SS)?

The M* settings are used to set custom TCR values (for example, if you are using SS304 you might try a value of 105).

 

[k2zs]

Yeah, this is only my 2nd (or 3rd) NI coil in the STM. First one was used on the VT200 and it was a pretty stellar 1st time temp control experience. After about 30ml of juice through it, I changed it out right before buying the Stout. So, new coil, fresh bottle of the same juice (Claim Your Throne 3mg), on the DNA200, and all I tasted is Cucumber??? Yeah, Cucumber of all things. Put 2 tanks through it with this coil so far and still not tasting any better.

I need to get a good (or better) dirpper to start really playing with TC. Had this STM since last spring but never liked it until I got the DNA200 and tried it with TC. Prolly should have stuck with my first impressions of the STM...

 

[k2zs]

The M* settings are used to set custom TCR values (for example, if you are using SS304 you might try a value of 105).

That's kinda what I figured, but how do you enter the TCR value? Is it another button click option I haven't found?

 

[nclobo]

That's kinda what I figured, but how do you enter the TCR value? Is it another button click option I haven't found?

Once you enter the TCR settings menu, M1 should be highlighted. Use up/down to switch between the M* selections. Hit the fire button to edit the current selected. The value should now be highlighted and you can use up/down to change the value. Hit the fire button again to save it. Once done editing, 5 clicks of the fire button will exit and return to a power on state. Change to one of the M settings same as you would select any of the others (SS/Ti/Ni/Bypass/Wattage).

 

[k2zs]

Once you enter the TCR settings menu, M1 should be highlighted. Use up/down to switch between the M* selections. Hit the fire button to edit the current selected. The value should now be highlighted and you can use up/down to change the value. Hit the fire button again to save it. Once done editing, 5 clicks of the fire button will exit and return to a power on state. Change to one of the M settings same as you would select any of the others (SS/Ti/Ni/Bypass/Wattage).

But my question is, how to get to this "TCR" options menu?