Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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TheBloke

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Thanks Tom.

I meant simple user presets, numbered for each atomizer, but the preset/atomizer has to be selected manually. Each preset could store SR, temperature and NP.

Oh yeah, that would be much easier! :D I was getting a bit too complex.

Yes, like the Yihi devices have memories for wattage and Joules. It could be memory for just SR, or Wattage + SR.

Ideally, allow naming of memories (with simple Up/down scrolling through A-Z, 0-9 like naming your HDMI inputs on a TV / putting in a high score on an arcade game!) and allow many memories, at least 50. Each memory is only storing a couple of small numbers (one byte each, max) and a few bytes of name, so memory requirement is trivial.

I would also like a memory system for coefficient. As well as being able to adjust Nickel Purity / TCR scale with arbitrary numbers, I'd also love to be able to save those to named presets: Stainless Steel, Titanium, Resistherm, Ni200, etc.
 
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Unior

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Maybe, Maybe Not

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That's ridiculous!! Aren't there more important issues government needs to be concerned with?!!
 

Quantum Mech

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That's ridiculous!! Aren't there more important issues government needs to be concerned with?!!

Oh that's important to them

Its step one of recovering all the tax they are losing by smokers now vaping

I can see restrictions & prices going through the roof in the next year

What makes it worse is it will be EU law that is passed

A European Parliament that we don't vote in or have any control over :(

:offtopic: Apologies for the hijack guys
 

AtmizrOpin

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Sorry to barge in here but here she is, finished! For the third time! I decided to put the DNA in my black Waidea and put the stock board back in the silver Waidea. Man I hope this board doesn't die. First time took me 3 hours, second time took me an hour and a half, this time, hopefully the last time, took me 30 min to put it in lol. I would say I'm well versed in tearing down and rebuilding Waidea's lol.
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AtmizrOpin

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Just brought a waidea vapour flask v3 and the ohms in normal kanthal mode are jumping all over the place everytime I fire it. Does anybody know if this could be caused by the grounding issue?
Let's see here. Ok here it goes........ what type of atty, what's the resistance of the coil on an ohm meter or a trusted mod? You sure you're using a kanthal coil and not a ni200. I know it's a stupid question but gotta ask. Does it jump around with any other kanthal atty? If no, sounds like poor connections in your atty either at the 510 or your posts. If yes, could be poor grounding, take off top plate (torx T4) and sand both mating surfaces and torque that sucka down. Weird if it's a grounding issue because I thought Waidea fixed that with an actual brass ring terminal in later revisions.
 
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opticruby

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Let's see here. Ok here it goes........ what type of atty, what's the resistance of the coil on an ohm meter or a trusted mod? You sure you're using a kanthal coil and not a ni200. I know it's a stupid question but gotta ask. Does it jump around with any other kanthal atty? If no, sounds like poor connections in your atty either at the 510 or your posts. If yes, could be poor grounding, take off top plate (torx T4) and sand both mating surfaces and torque that sucka down. Weird if it's a grounding issue because I thought Waidea fixed that with an actual brass ring terminal in later revisions.

I've tested it with all my rba's and two different lemo tanks all ohms were solid on my other mods but my waidea VF is really bouncing around the ohms every click of the fire, anything upto 1.1ohms + and - on all attys. It is kanthal and screws nice and snug also. If you think its fixable I will give it a try first thing tomorrow. Else I'm wandering if I should just return it but I really have fell inlove with it :hubba:

What you have been doing with yours is fantastic :thumb:

Thankyou for your reply.
 
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druckle

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Let's see here. Ok here it goes........ what type of atty, what's the resistance of the coil on an ohm meter or a trusted mod? You sure you're using a kanthal coil and not a ni200. I know it's a stupid question but gotta ask. Does it jump around with any other kanthal atty? If no, sounds like poor connections in your atty either at the 510 or your posts. If yes, could be poor grounding, take off top plate (torx T4) and sand both mating surfaces and torque that sucka down. Weird if it's a grounding issue because I thought Waidea fixed that with an actual brass ring terminal in later revisions.
I just got a Vapor Flask Squonk and found that the battery compartment threads are anodized. The only way I could get decent grounding was to scrape off some of the anodized thread surface with a sharp micro screwdriver. Previous
Vapor Flasks I've had were masked in this area. I have absolutely no idea why anyone would coat an electrical contact surface with non conductive aluminum oxide.

I'd suggest checking / cleaning those threads as a first item.

Duane
 

AtmizrOpin

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I've tested it with all my rba's and two different lemo tanks all ohms were solid on my other mods but my waidea VF is really bouncing around the ohms every click of the fire, anything upto 1.1ohms + and - on all attys. It is kanthal and screws nice and snug also. If you think its fixable I will give it a try first thing tomorrow. Else I'm wandering if I should just return it but I really have fell inlove with it :hubba:

What you have been doing with yours is fantastic :thumb:

Thankyou for your reply.
What's your battery meter doin when you fire it? Does it bounce or decrease by a measurable amount? Because they're only using the battery neg pin out on the board as both a ground for the 510 and battery voltage. Kind of a buy one get one free deal. Try lightly sanding the bottom of the top plate and the top of the flask. Making sure there is no anodized aluminum, just bare metal for both mating surfaces. Your battery tubes could also use some wire brushing while you're at it. If it still acts like a piece garbage, send it back or buy a DNA 40 and a Fatdaddyvapes V3 Short 510 and make it something special for yourself. Thanks for noticing my tricked out Waidea. She was a b**ch to get to this point.
 
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opticruby

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What's your battery meter doin when you fire it? Does it bounce or decrease by a measurable amount? Because they're only using the battery neg pin out on the board as both a ground for the 510 and battery voltage. Kind of a buy one get one free deal. Try lightly sanding the bottom of the top plate and the top of the flask. Making sure there is no anodized aluminum, just bare metal for both mating surfaces. Your battery tubes could also use some wire brushing while you're at it. If it still acts like a piece garbage, send it back or buy a DNA 40 and a Fatdaddyvapes V3 Short 510 and make it something special for yourself. Thanks for noticing my tricked out Waidea. She was a b**ch to get to this point.

The battery meter seems fine as far as I can see it only bounces one bar but I think it is close to dropping the next bar down. I Will definatly try taking it apart and sanding first thing tomorrow. I'm thinking of putting a FD's V3 shorty in because I read earlier in the thread that it settled someone elses ohm problem out.
 

opticruby

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I just got a Vapor Flask Squonk and found that the battery compartment threads are anodized. The only way I could get decent grounding was to scrape off some of the anodized thread surface with a sharp micro screwdriver. Previous
Vapor Flasks I've had were masked in this area. I have absolutely no idea why anyone would coat an electrical contact surface with non conductive aluminum oxide.

I'd suggest checking / cleaning those threads as a first item.

Duane

I can see some metal on the threads I hane cleaned the (load of black gunk came off), but I've not scraped them yet so that I will also do.

Hopefully this will be the fix to get my new much loved VF up and running perfect.

I will keep you all posted on how it all goes.

Thankyou all again for the help it really is much appricated.
 
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I can see some metal on the threads I hane cleaned the (load of black gunk came off), but I've not scraped them yet so that I will also do.

Hopefully this will be the fix to get my new much loved VF up and running perfect.

I will keep you all posted on how it all goes.

Thankyou all again for the help it really is much appricated.

I am starting to have issues with mine as well. Temp control has pretty much stopped working. Looking forward to seeing if fixing the grounding issues works for you.
 

Tpat591

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I just got a Vapor Flask Squonk and found that the battery compartment threads are anodized. The only way I could get decent grounding was to scrape off some of the anodized thread surface with a sharp micro screwdriver. Previous
Vapor Flasks I've had were masked in this area. I have absolutely no idea why anyone would coat an electrical contact surface with non conductive aluminum oxide.

I'd suggest checking / cleaning those threads as a first item.

Duane
You have already received the Vapor Flask Squonk Clone? I didn't think either Waidea or Yiloong were shipping these yet! Where did you get it from and how do you like it? Pics?
 
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druckle

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You have already received the Vapor Flask Squonk Clone? I didn't think either Waidea or Yiloong were shipping these yet! Where did you get it from and how do you like it? Pics?
No....misunderstanding...I was talking about an original Vapor Flask Squonk....lots of the clones seem to have anodized contact surfaces also...just mentioning the issue by analogy.

Duane
 

druckle

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Out of interest did you complain to Squonk? Paying $300 or whatever it is for an authentic and then still having to clean anodizing out of the threads would not make me a happy squonker..
Do dogs get fleas? :)
Shall we say we spoke at length?

Duane
 

SotosB

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This is the fifth problem I've heard from the latest batch of Black devices.
Make it six. It's the battery tube threads that have the problem. Or it may be the spings. I did't have the time to read the threads the last few days, it seems I have to do some studing. I'll get back with the problems later. When it works (on single battery) the TC works perfect with SS and Ti I've tried. Actually I'm vaping on it right now and its awsome.
 
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TheBloke

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Make it six. It's the battery tube threads that have the problem. Or it may be the spings. I did't have the time to read the threads the last few days, it seems I have to do some studing. I'll get back with the problems later. When it works (on single battery) the TC works perfect with SS and Ti I've tried. Actually I'm vaping on it right now and its awsome.

Great stuff! What resistance readings are you seeing compared to other mods? Are you needing to adjust the NP for Titanium higher to compensate or are you using 35? (Or 38, some literature says 0.0038 as TCR.)
 
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