Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[TheotherSteveS]

Yes Sir...just think menu page [HASHTAG]#142[/HASHTAG]....think click....think ah argh...thnk 0 ....think menu page uh ...hmmmm??

I laughed. They will probs make it even more complex if that is possible...

 

[funkyrudi]

You will get it in Europe...Dicodes will do it and all with one button!

When the prohibition/regulation is all over Europe, Dicodes can make their stuff for export but not for sale in Europe. kayfun, Taifun, Flash e Vapor..... will be produced for export only. That`s the reason why we have to buy our gear this year. Maybe some loopholes........ and for sure the black market will boom.

You know this story - 100 years ago

 

[druckle]

When the prohibition/regulation is all over Europe, Dicodes can make their stuff for export but not for sale in Europe. kayfun, Taifun, Flash e Vapor..... will be produced for export only. That`s the reason why we have to buy our gear this year. Maybe some loopholes........ and for sure the black market will boom.

You know this story - 100 years ago

I see it now...a whole continent of healthy criminals !

 

[druckle]

When the prohibition/regulation is all over Europe, Dicodes can make their stuff for export but not for sale in Europe. Kayfun, Taifun, Flash e Vapor..... will be produced for export only. That`s the reason why we have to buy our gear this year. Maybe some loopholes........ and for sure the black market will boom.

You know this story - 100 years ago

Prohibition is the boon of the criminal class.

 

[funkyrudi]

Yes, smokers, vapers are criminals or will be made criminals.

 

[RainZG]

I believe that even the V3 short is still too long to fit well in the Kangxin flask. It will press down on the screw used as a positive battery contact (terrible design). This in turn pushes the battery down a couple of mm, which will prevent you from screwing the battery cap all the way in. This isn't fatal, but makes the flask a bit akward with only one of the two battery caps protruding. Using the FDV V3 with the 22mm washer on top of the top plate should give you just enough room to work though.

I have v3 short in my kangix flask and it goes in without problems but you need to be careful how will you solder wire to 510 and I also re-soldered wire to positive pin on battery. In case that is not done then yes, you can have problems with 510 touching + pin.

 

[TheBloke]

Anyway. Got another reply from SXK, a much more concrete reply than the first non-committal one:

1. He has now discussed my email with "my boss and our engineer", and they have promised to investigate the low resistance problems
2. He also asked me to give his engineer more details on my findings on NP adjustments and Titanium.
   1. Part of my first email was telling them that they were badly under-selling NP: that "nickel purity" was the very least use of that feature, in fact very few people (outside of China) were ever likely to need it.
   2. I told them that its far more interesting use was for non-Ni200 wires, as a linear TCR adjustment scale.
   3. I never quite understood why they didn't already understand that - it's possible that an engineer made it that flexible because he knew it would be useful, but never sold the bosses on the benefits of selling it as that.
3. Anyway, the fact that they focused on Titanium suggest to me that they're seeing what Joyetech are doing with the EVIC, and they're belatedly realising Titanium is the New Big thing; and now perhaps the bosses have realised for the first time that they already have a mod that does that - so why don't they sell it as such!
   1. In particular they want to know how I calibrated the NP scale for Titanium and what Titanium wire I am using.
4. I couldn't get back to him during their working day today, HKT, but I hope to speak to him tomorrow - he's added me on Skype so we can discuss further.
5. The potential great news here is that I will be telling them in no uncertain terms that although NP has amazing potential, it is very much sullied at the moment by low resistance - they can't sell this as a general Beyond-Ni200 wire mod without fixing that (indeed even as a general TC mod it's not being as well received as it should/could be.)
   1. Therefore if I'm right and they are now thinking of Titanium and other wires, this will be a huge incentive for them to fix the low resistance once and for all.

Hopefully I'll know more by tomorrow, and I might see if I can reach him tonight on Skype / early am his time.

Continuing to make progress on this. More emails exchanged. The language barrier is a big problem, so it takes a while. But they say they are committed to fixing the low resistance problem, and I have received questions/comments directly from an engineer. Still a lot of confusion, mostly from translation issues, but slowly getting there.

I'm going to make them a video showing all my findings, as hopefully this will work around some of the inherent communication problems.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Yepp. And for the SR value, it would be easy, if the display would show the resistance after the "atomizer short" message ( after the 0.04 Ohm issue has been fixed )
And for the future:
we need presets for each of our atties and all of them have to finish a shorting test, to measure the SR, which will be stored in the presets. The offset calculation could be done in the background and there would be no need for a SR offset parameter.

I´m sure, we will get sth like that, but I´m not sure whether we will be able to buy it in Europe

Unbelievable, they did sth that works, but they didn`t know what it can be used for. Tztztzz

If they ask you about possible improvements, you could tell them, that another parameter, static resistance offset, could be useful. Also a possibility to measure the static resistance ( by shorting an atomizer ) could be helpful. But I guess you`ll have to explain all that stuff and they don`t know what you are talking about.

What in world are you talking about here? These posts seem to make no sense whatsoever. Maybe a loss of meaning in translation?
What is "sth"? What is SR value. There will probably never be presets for atties.

 

[TheBloke]

What in world are you talking about here? These posts seem to make no sense whatsoever. Maybe a loss of meaning in translation?
What is "sth"? What is SR value. There will probably never be presets for atties.

sth just means 'something'

SR = Static Resistance, the resistance amount inherent in every atomizer and build, ie Atomizer Read Resistance minus Resistance of Wire Itself. It decreases the accuracy of TC, and is largely responsible for the wide variations in target temperature you see in active TC - ie AttyX is 'best' at 380°F, where AttyB 'needs' 450°F, etc.

Now that some mods have Temperature Coeficient of Resistance scales, we can counteract SR by adjusting the Coefficient value used for temp calculations, rather than modifying the end temperature. This allows us to set the real end temp we want, and adjust the calculation the mod makes according to the known/estimated amount of SR in the atty/build.

To follow the conversation better read through this thread: TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

There can be presets for attys as soon as the 510 connection is replaced by something more advanced, with signal/power lines to the atty - Innokin are already doing this for their new sensor-based tanks. If such a solution were made generic then the atty could ID itself to the mod for memories, presets, all sorts of useful things.

Though by the time that's commonplace, resistance-based TC might be a thing of the past - we might all be using tanks with thermocouples or whatever.

 

[Matty316]

Hi all

Just noticed something a little concerning with my SXK 60w tc flask when i was putting some new batteries in. When trying to screw down one of the battery caps i noticed some electrical arking from the cap to the case of the flask. I took out the battery and inspected the shrink wrap and there's no damage so i'm not quite sure what could have caused it.

Batteries i'm using are samsung 25r's.

 

[Quantum Mech]

Hi all

Just noticed something a little concerning with my SXK 60w tc flask when i was putting some new batteries in. When trying to screw down one of the battery caps i noticed some electrical arking from the cap to the case of the flask. I took out the battery and inspected the shrink wrap and there's no damage so i'm not quite sure what could have caused it.

Batteries i'm using are samsung 25r's.

are the threads tarnished or have paint on them

there has been some issues with the case threads needing cleaning

 

[TheBloke]

Hi all

Just noticed something a little concerning with my SXK 60w tc flask when i was putting some new batteries in. When trying to screw down one of the battery caps i noticed some electrical arking from the cap to the case of the flask. I took out the battery and inspected the shrink wrap and there's no damage so i'm not quite sure what could have caused it.

Batteries i'm using are samsung 25r's.

I've seen that twice as well. Scared me the first time, but nothing bad has happened. I figured it was normal when the connection between battery and cap was briefly unstable, so I try and get the cap down firmly first time without wobbling.

So I had assumed it was normal but just not normally seen. Perhaps it's exacerbated by the shape of the caps, they have a different shaped 'nipple' than my Waidea battery caps.

Sent by fondling my slab.

 

[Matty316]

are the threads tarnished or have paint on them

there has been some issues with the case threads needing cleaning

I have the silver one so no paint on the threads. Also i'm a little OCD when it come to cleaning my mod and always give the threads and caps a good clean every time i switch batteries.

I've seen that twice as well. Scared me the first time, but nothing bad has happened. I figured it was normal when the connection between battery and cap was briefly unstable, so I try and get the cap down firmly first time without wobbling.

So I had assumed it was normal but just not normally seen. Perhaps it's exacerbated by the shape of the caps, they have a different shaped 'nipple' than my Waidea battery caps.

Sent by fondling my slab.

This was my guess but just wanted to double check with you guys.
Strange observation i made was this will happen with both battery slots but after i get the first battery in and screwed down i no longer get an ark when attemping to screw down the second.

 

[dwcraig1]

I used my Dremel's wire wheel on the threads of mine, real smooth turning now, one was a bit creaky. Applied small amount of Noalox too.
I wouldn't normally use Noalox on a spot like that but I don't take my batteries out to charge them so the messiness of it is OK.

 

[Quantum Mech]

I've seen that twice as well. Scared me the first time, but nothing bad has happened. I figured it was normal when the connection between battery and cap was briefly unstable, so I try and get the cap down firmly first time without wobbling.

So I had assumed it was normal but just not normally seen. Perhaps it's exacerbated by the shape of the caps, they have a different shaped 'nipple' than my Waidea battery caps.

Sent by fondling my slab.

I have the silver one so no paint on the threads. Also i'm a little OCD when it come to cleaning my mod and always give the threads and caps a good clean every time i switch batteries.



This was my guess but just wanted to double check with you guys.
Strange observation i made was this will happen with both battery slots but after i get the first battery in and screwed down i no longer get an ark when attemping to screw down the second.

Connecting a circuit to power supply should not cause arking .... not normally anyway

It must mean the device draws power as soon as the batteries are installed & not just once switched on

Are these 'x' clicks on or are they ready to use once batteries are installed

 

[TheBloke]

Connecting a circuit to power supply should not cause arking .... not normally anyway

It must mean the device draws power as soon as the batteries are installed & not just once switched on

Are these 'x' clicks on or are they ready to use once batteries are installed

That must be it - the moment that first battery is in, it's on. That's why you almost never see the odd welcome message ("ELOVE DNA") because it's displayed and gone away before you've finished tightening the first cap and turning the mod over. No five-click on, no way to turn it off.

Also explains why @Matty316 notices it only with first battery, not the second - I'm sure that was the same for me, I just didn't remember it.

 

[Quantum Mech]

That must be it - the moment that first battery is in, it's on. That's why you almost never see the odd welcome message ("ELOVE DNA") because it's displayed and gone away before you've finished tightening the first cap and turning the mod over. No five-click on, no way to turn it off.

Also explains why @Matty316 notices it only with first battery, not the second - I'm sure that was the same for me, I just didn't remember it.

Ok yeah that makes sense then

Not been reading about board failures so they must take the spike ok

 

[Unior]

I

Prohibition is the boon of the criminal class.

I live in the U.S. That being said here & there in this thread I have heard mention that "next year in Europe we won't be able to get .....etc". What is happening next year?

 

[Quantum Mech]

I

I live in the U.S. That being said here & there in this thread I have heard mention that "next year in Europe we won't be able to get .....etc". What is happening next year?

Maybe, Maybe Not

 

[funkyrudi]

sth just means 'something'

SR = Static Resistance, the resistance amount inherent in every atomizer and build, ie Atomizer Read Resistance minus Resistance of Wire Itself. It decreases the accuracy of TC, and is largely responsible for the wide variations in target temperature you see in active TC - ie AttyX is 'best' at 380°F, where AttyB 'needs' 450°F, etc.

Now that some mods have Temperature Coeficient of Resistance scales, we can counteract SR by adjusting the Coefficient value used for temp calculations, rather than modifying the end temperature. This allows us to set the real end temp we want, and adjust the calculation the mod makes according to the known/estimated amount of SR in the atty/build.

To follow the conversation better read through this thread: TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

There can be presets for attys as soon as the 510 connection is replaced by something more advanced, with signal/power lines to the atty - Innokin are already doing this for their new sensor-based tanks. If such a solution were made generic then the atty could ID itself to the mod for memories, presets, all sorts of useful things.

Though by the time that's commonplace, resistance-based TC might be a thing of the past - we might all be using tanks with thermocouples or whatever.

Thanks Tom.

I meant simple user presets, numbered for each atomizer, but the preset/atomizer has to be selected manually. Each preset could store SR, temperature and NP.