It's not exactly the cheapest one out there I think so yeah, it comes at a cost but it seems to work for now.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
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Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I think it depends of the spring loaded pin design. Some might be better, some might be worse. I have one here that is massive even compared to the OCD one and I did a bunch of tests with my erlp nano and that thing is rock solid as the atty compresses the pin almost 2mm inward. I just didn't test it under TC yet because my damn enclosure is still stuck in customs (for two weeks now)...
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I told you that you would never get away with fill that mod box with diamonds. They have dogs that'll sniff them puppies out (pun intended).
I don't personally know any other vapers (not counting the occasional cigalike or VV twist/crapomizer user) in "real life" outside of those I bump into in passing when making the occasional emergency juice or coil head run to a local Rape and Mortar store. And I don't vape there with my own gear.
So no, it's not all about image when buying a clone.
yikes. shots fired lol. maybe once I become more experienced, I will care less. But until then, check out my flask suckas! lol. btw, rape and mortars! I love it! ha
I don't personally know any other vapers (not counting the occasional cigalike or VV twist/crapomizer user) in "real life" outside of those I bump into in passing when making the occasional emergency juice or coil head run to a local Rape and Mortar store. And I don't vape there with my own gear.
So no, it's not all about image when buying a clone.
Croak,
I like that a lot "Rape and Mortar store" I have two of them here and the first part fits their business ethic perfectly.
You're right but I was convinced the hot glue smell would cover up the diamond smell. I guess not...
I wonder if they ask me what that stuff is, if I should say it's electronics and an ecig mod or just electronics or just lie and say it's a box battery for a flashlight? [emoji14]
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I'd go for the flashlight. No don't do that if you are like me lying to the Feds never seem to work. Tell them it is jus a hobby box you picked up because it was such a good deal and you might need it in the future.
PS Check you email I found a picture of how to solve the problem of keeping the mags away from the motor.
Oh i wasn't worried about price different....if im honest i didnt notice. Just looking around at the different clones from 3fvape, fasttech and focalcig
Last edited:
I lie to them all the time. They're used to it
Actually (more off topic), yesterday I was giving class to a group of students (pro Bono - yes I can be a good guy sometimes) since they come from several social institutions as they didn't make it through the educational system because of family problems, gangs and other stuff.
Anyway, in the middle of the class I'm called outside where a fed was waiting. The instant he flashed his badge, I started to try to remember all illegal stuff I did in the last two years lollllll.
Luckily he wasn't there for me. He needed to arrest one of my students so he was just handing me the warrant and informing me... Pretty surreal. I thought I was in a bad movie.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
So after almost two weeks of using the Kangxin Flask, I'm still real happy with it, but I've noticed a few things:
1. It's sensitive to battery charge in TP mode. When battery level gets lower than about 40%, it takes longer to "ramp up" to your set temperature, correctable by throwing more wattage at the coil AND raising the temp limit a bit.
For example on a Kayfun V4 clone, 30ga twisted on a M8 (~3mm) machine screw, it comes in at 1.3 ohms, and gets me the best flavor and vape temp at 470F and 20w, with about a 1 to 1.5 second max ramp up to temp.
With weak batteries, below the halfway level on the indicator (and 40% or lower showing on my charger), I need to bump it up to 23-25 watts as battery level continues to drop, and need to set TP at 500F or a bit more to get the same ramp up time and flavor. I get similar results with a Subtank RBA, Marquis RDA, Rogue RDA, and my home-rolled Ni200 Atlantis and Subtank coils, needs more power and higher temp limits past the battery halfway point.
It's not a deal-breaker, by any means, and not as bad as a mech mod as the battery drops, just something to watch out for if you think your build is messed up.
2. Finish on the BB style buttons is not the greatest. Mine are almost completely down to the dull brass now and no amount of cleaning is going to bring that shiny silver back. Then again, I'm a bit hard on button finishes (and watch bands, and rings), something in my natural PH I reckon. But hey, dogs love the way I taste, so there's that.
3. 510 adjustment screw is too loose, it's constantly in need of adjustment even when sticking with a single atty. It's also at risk of coming out and getting lost, so keep that in mind.
4. Doesn't stay locked after it goes into deep sleep mode. When it wakes up and says "Hello", even if you locked it earlier, it will fire.
5. Locking the adjustment buttons always adds 0.1 watts, so if you want to lock it at say, 20 watts, set it to 19.9 first.
6. Top plate (part held on by the four T5 screws) on either end can shift with not too much pressure, giving you a bit of an overhang. Easy to correct, but it can happen again, since you really can't torque the screws down that much into the aluminum, and where Vaporflask decided to put the screws on the authentic just gives that plate too much room to torque. Ideally, they should have put the screws more outboard from the center.
7. 510 connector gets dirty, quick. No big deal with Kanthal, but it can be the difference between a bad build and a good build with Ni200, so keep it clean.
8. Bottom adjustment button on mine is starting to show signs of recessing into the housing. That worries me more than anything else about this device.
1. It's sensitive to battery charge in TP mode. When battery level gets lower than about 40%, it takes longer to "ramp up" to your set temperature, correctable by throwing more wattage at the coil AND raising the temp limit a bit.
For example on a Kayfun V4 clone, 30ga twisted on a M8 (~3mm) machine screw, it comes in at 1.3 ohms, and gets me the best flavor and vape temp at 470F and 20w, with about a 1 to 1.5 second max ramp up to temp.
With weak batteries, below the halfway level on the indicator (and 40% or lower showing on my charger), I need to bump it up to 23-25 watts as battery level continues to drop, and need to set TP at 500F or a bit more to get the same ramp up time and flavor. I get similar results with a Subtank RBA, Marquis RDA, Rogue RDA, and my home-rolled Ni200 Atlantis and Subtank coils, needs more power and higher temp limits past the battery halfway point.
It's not a deal-breaker, by any means, and not as bad as a mech mod as the battery drops, just something to watch out for if you think your build is messed up.
2. Finish on the BB style buttons is not the greatest. Mine are almost completely down to the dull brass now and no amount of cleaning is going to bring that shiny silver back. Then again, I'm a bit hard on button finishes (and watch bands, and rings), something in my natural PH I reckon. But hey, dogs love the way I taste, so there's that.
3. 510 adjustment screw is too loose, it's constantly in need of adjustment even when sticking with a single atty. It's also at risk of coming out and getting lost, so keep that in mind.
4. Doesn't stay locked after it goes into deep sleep mode. When it wakes up and says "Hello", even if you locked it earlier, it will fire.
5. Locking the adjustment buttons always adds 0.1 watts, so if you want to lock it at say, 20 watts, set it to 19.9 first.
6. Top plate (part held on by the four T5 screws) on either end can shift with not too much pressure, giving you a bit of an overhang. Easy to correct, but it can happen again, since you really can't torque the screws down that much into the aluminum, and where Vaporflask decided to put the screws on the authentic just gives that plate too much room to torque. Ideally, they should have put the screws more outboard from the center.
7. 510 connector gets dirty, quick. No big deal with Kanthal, but it can be the difference between a bad build and a good build with Ni200, so keep it clean.
8. Bottom adjustment button on mine is starting to show signs of recessing into the housing. That worries me more than anything else about this device.
About 1)
Are you sure about 1.3 Ohms? That would be around 100 wraps with ni 200 and if it is kanthal, tp mode doesn't work for kanthal.
M8 is 8mm diameter. Maybe M3?
About 5)
Tge genuine dna 40 does the same. You need to add or subtract 0.1 before looking wattage.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Are you sure about 1.3 Ohms? That would be around 100 wraps with ni 200 and if it is kanthal, tp mode doesn't work for kanthal.
M8 is 8mm diameter. Maybe M3?
About 5)
Tge genuine dna 40 does the same. You need to add or subtract 0.1 before looking wattage.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
So after almost two weeks of using the Kangxin Flask, I'm still real happy with it, but I've noticed a few things:
1. It's sensitive to battery charge in TP mode. When battery level gets lower than about 40%, it takes longer to "ramp up" to your set temperature, correctable by throwing more wattage at the coil AND raising the temp limit a bit.
For example on a Kayfun V4 clone, 30ga twisted on a M8 (~3mm) machine screw, it comes in at 1.3 ohms, and gets me the best flavor and vape temp at 470F and 20w, with about a 1 to 1.5 second max ramp up to temp.
With weak batteries, below the halfway level on the indicator (and 40% or lower showing on my charger), I need to bump it up to 23-25 watts as battery level continues to drop, and need to set TP at 500F or a bit more to get the same ramp up time and flavor. I get similar results with a Subtank RBA, Marquis RDA, Rogue RDA, and my home-rolled Ni200 Atlantis and Subtank coils, needs more power and higher temp limits past the battery halfway point.
It's not a deal-breaker, by any means, and not as bad as a mech mod as the battery drops, just something to watch out for if you think your build is messed up.
2. Finish on the BB style buttons is not the greatest. Mine are almost completely down to the dull brass now and no amount of cleaning is going to bring that shiny silver back. Then again, I'm a bit hard on button finishes (and watch bands, and rings), something in my natural PH I reckon. But hey, dogs love the way I taste, so there's that.
3. 510 adjustment screw is too loose, it's constantly in need of adjustment even when sticking with a single atty. It's also at risk of coming out and getting lost, so keep that in mind.
4. Doesn't stay locked after it goes into deep sleep mode. When it wakes up and says "Hello", even if you locked it earlier, it will fire.
5. Locking the adjustment buttons always adds 0.1 watts, so if you want to lock it at say, 20 watts, set it to 19.9 first.
6. Top plate (part held on by the four T5 screws) on either end can shift with not too much pressure, giving you a bit of an overhang. Easy to correct, but it can happen again, since you really can't torque the screws down that much into the aluminum, and where Vaporflask decided to put the screws on the authentic just gives that plate too much room to torque. Ideally, they should have put the screws more outboard from the center.
7. 510 connector gets dirty, quick. No big deal with Kanthal, but it can be the difference between a bad build and a good build with Ni200, so keep it clean.
8. Bottom adjustment button on mine is starting to show signs of recessing into the housing. That worries me more than anything else about this device.
Nice quick update. thanks Croak.
#8 is a big problem...others are just minor, and can be quickly adjusted to work. please keep us updated.
Just sold my Flask. Honestly, I liked the Temperature Control function but it isn't enough to keep me in it. I've been looking at the iPV Mini 2 70w since it came out and just put my order in for that.
I wanted to thank you guys for answering my questions in my short stay in this thread. I really appreciate it!
I wanted to thank you guys for answering my questions in my short stay in this thread. I really appreciate it!
Sorry to see ya go Biggins, but I understand the TP is not for everyone that's for sure. Every time I attempt to build a TP coil all I can think is this sure would be easier if Ni200 wasn't like working with cooked spaghetti.
I really like the functionality of it and the innovation but I don't think I'd use it much. I daily an iPV3 (upgraded to 165w) and never come close to burning cotton or vaping at high enough wattage to get dry hits. I'm primarily a RBA guy anyway and the majority of my tanks don't have the room necessary to build a 13-15 wrap Ni200 coil.Sorry to see ya go Biggins, but I understand the TP is not for everyone that's for sure. Every time I attempt to build a TP coil all I can think is this sure would be easier if Ni200 wasn't like working with cooked spaghetti.
Only tank I have with plenty of room for that is the EHPro Big Buddha and let's face it, 28mm tank on this flask just looks silly. [emoji1]
Vapor Shark rDNA 40 Style 510 Variable Voltage / Wattage APV Temperature Control Mod - Black, Aluminum, 1~9V, 1~40W - 3FVape
Didn't realize the Vapor Sharks were in.
Didn't realize the Vapor Sharks were in.
I only have two tanks the eLeaf Lemo that really has enough room to handle the Ni200 size coils. I almost bought the Big Buddha when I first tried to stuff monster coils in my Foggers but like you I thought it would look pretty silly on a Flask... not exactly a stealth tank.
As a matter of fact you caught me watching "Gold Rush" hitting on my "Seven 30 (26650)" and a dual Kanthal Omega RDA. I know sacrilege.
I LOVE the Big Buddha. I actually have two of them. It looks silly on my iPV3 so it on the flask would be ridiculous.
About 1)
Are you sure about 1.3 Ohms? That would be around 100 wraps with ni 200 and if it is kanthal, tp mode doesn't work for kanthal.
M8 is 8mm diameter. Maybe M3?
About 5)
Tge genuine dna 40 does the same. You need to add or subtract 0.1 before looking wattage.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
0.13, and #8
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