Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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dwcraig1

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I took this off my rDNA 40 and put it on my VF c when i got it, this is my #1. I'm not sure how many ml's went through it but it seemed about time to change the wick. It looked really good for how long I was using it, should have taken a pic but didn't. Here's with the new wick, 28 gauge Ni200 @ 0.13Ω
My setting is 27 watts and 450 F
15628_971388236218734_1580418181737378399_n.jpg

Taifun GT II clone with slotted air intake and 3.2 mm wick slots.
The best description of just how well it works..... another word for where the forward end of a cat's tail attaches.
Just about all my coils are 2 mm id but for nickel I make them 2.5 - 3 mm, I can rip off a piece of rayon the right size almost evrey time but it took me four tries to get this 2.5 one right...LOL
 
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Nailz

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    I ordered the ss thread one from focal - $71.97-$72.63 Vaporflask V3 Style Temperature Control 40W Clone Mod - Black

    I am going to guess it is the same one as 3fvapes, not to bothered the 510 is not adjustable, be using with a subtank mini, so don't think it will be a problem hopefully, most important to me, was it had usb charging and it works.

    I actually got no interest in the TC at the moment, which is why my 1st flask was from fasttech being a 40watt V2 with no TC, but waited 6 weeks for it to come, only for it to fail after a week, so hoping for better luck with this next one, and if I ever want to try out TC, I will have it there :)
     

    tchavei

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    I took this off my rDNA 40 and put it on my VF c when i got it, this is my #1. I'm not sure how many ml's went through it but it seemed about time to change the wick. It looked really good for how long I was using it, should have taken a pic but didn't. Here's with the new wick, 28 gauge Ni200 @ 0.13Ω
    My setting is 27 watts and 450 F
    15628_971388236218734_1580418181737378399_n.jpg

    Taifun GT II clone with slotted air intake and 3.2 mm wick slots.
    The best description of just how well it works..... another word for where the forward end of a cat's tail attaches.

    Wow. That coil looks clean as a whistle and I'm surprised that the full contact coil is working so nicely. Congrats :)

    Regards
    Tony

    Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
     

    Croak

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    Right behind you...
    So far my best builds have been twisted 30ga, like it better for building than 28ga single and ohms out about the same, and for me it's more forgiving of a re-wick. Also seems to get up to temp quicker. Harder to make a good contact coil with twisted though.

    Also, got bored today and took some carnuba wax to my flask. Actually worked out well, it's got a nice low key gloss, and the big win is it's more tolerant when I get 'juice fingers', doesn't get as sticky, but it isn't any more slippery either. If I can remember where I put my tin of brass cleaner wadding, I may go after the buttons tomorrow, try to get rid of that dull look now that the chrome plating has worn off.
     

    bky16

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    This is a long thread. I've been reading it like 30 pages. It seems to me that there are 2 major vapor flash clones.

    1. Kangxin(#1660 on 3fvape)
    -yellow box cover, adjustable brass 510 connector, usb port higher than the authentics
    -shows KX-40D when reboot or after long sleep
    2. Sunlay(#2806 on 3fvape)
    -Black box cover, Fixed Stainless Steel 510 connector, usb port lower than the kangxin
    -show nothing

    I got my Sunlay version 2 weeks from now, I would try to summerize all info that I can get so far.

    510 Connector:
    A lot of people are so much concerned that both of them don't come with a spring loaded connectors. The reason I can come up with is all about conectivity. As a lot of people had noticed, the TC thing is in fact a measure of resistence change during use. Further, a 0.01 variation in resistance would means more than ten(s) of degree in F. Thus, a poor spring loaded connector will be a hazard to the calculation. While a well-built spring loaded connector must cost a lot more in the scale of manufacturing. The clone manufacturer are not building their own brand, they just want to make the most out of the product.

    As comparing the adjustable connector and the fixed connector. Some had reviewed that the adjustable one especially in brass tends to wear off and rotate easily when you screw in your atties. I had the same experience with the cloupor mini which is a pain in the...

    Since I had the #2806 which is a fixed connector. I always found a gap between my mod and the atties, some larger and some smaller. This I think is the design. The engineer of the product aren't meant to shorter thread well. That is to make sure the positve pole will always connect. I had been using Lemo, Subtank mini, Dark horse, Vertex, Veritas, Derringer and Magma on it without problem.

    Appearence
    I would think that the #2806 looks a lot more like the authentic one. Especially the position of usb port. And it seems to me that the overall finish looks better to me.

    Board performance
    Actually, I was trying to get a clue, from this thread, which clone perform better. Then it seems no one are silly enough to buy them both for comparison. Though, I heard that the Kangxin #1660 version had updated their firmware with nice little improvement.

    1. pre-heat, so it will pust up a little more when the coil is cool so that it will reach your desired tempeature faster.
    2. Faster firing after deep sleep. I was told the first version will show the welcome screen after long sleep, but the latest one will fire right after you press fire.
    3. The "temperture protected" are not shown, instead, the wattage will go down until tempearture falls below your requested temperature.

    Heat-up duration
    I really had no idea as it got to be a direct comparison. My #2806 is working fine for me, but I saw some others using Kangxin heat up faster.

    I also bought a Vapor Shark rDNA 40 clone, which show the logo 'Evolv DNA 40' after deep sleep, and it is really slow on heat up.

    Features
    It seems to me that the Kangxin #1660 work closer to the authentic as some button push combination is missing on my #2860. You might compare the instructions to see which of them are missing and how important they are to you.

    I don't know whether my summary are at all correct, but hope this will help those want ot choose their VF.:)
     
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    Tpat591

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    This is a long thread. I've been reading it like 30 pages. It seems to me that there are 2 major vapor flash clones.

    1. Kangxin(#1660 on 3fvape)
    -yellow box cover, adjustable brass 510 connector, usb port higher than the authentics
    -shows KX-40D when reboot or after long sleep
    2. Sunlay(#2806 on 3fvape)
    -Black box cover, Fixed Stainless Steel 510 connector, usb port lower than the kangxin
    -show nothing

    I got my Sunlay version 2 weeks from now, I would try to summerize all info that I can get so far.

    510 Connector:
    A lot of people are so much concerned that both of them don't come with a spring loaded connectors. The reason I can come up with is all about conectivity. As a lot of people had noticed, the TC thing is in fact a measure of resistence change during use. Further, a 0.01 variation in resistance would means more than ten(s) of degree in F. Thus, a poor spring loaded connector will be a hazard to the calculation. While a well-built spring loaded connector must cost a lot more in the scale of manufacturing. The clone manufacturer are not building their own brand, they just want to make the most out of the product.

    As comparing the adjustable connector and the fixed connector. Some had reviewed that the adjustable one especially in brass tends to wear off and rotate easily when you screw in your atties. I had the same experience with the cloupor mini which is a pain in the...

    Since I had the #2806 which is a fixed connector. I always found a gap between my mod and the atties, some larger and some smaller. This I think is the design. The engineer of the product aren't meant to shorter thread well. That is to make sure the positve pole will always connect. I had been using Lemo, Subtank mini, Dark horse, Vertex, Veritas, Derringer and Magma on it without problem.

    Appearence
    I would think that the #2806 looks a lot more like the authentic one. Especially the position of usb port. And it seems to me that the overall finish looks better to me.

    Board performance
    Actually, I was trying to get a clue, from this thread, which clone perform better. Then it seems no one are silly enough to buy them both for comparison. Though, I heard that the Kangxin #1660 version had updated their firmware with nice little improvement.

    1. pre-heat, so it will pust up a little more when the coil is cool so that it will reach your desired tempeature faster.
    2. Faster firing after deep sleep. I was told the first version will show the welcome screen after long sleep, but the latest one will fire right after you press fire.
    3. The "temperture protected" are not shown, instead, the wattage will go down until tempearture falls below your requested temperature.

    Heat-up duration
    I really had no idea as it got to be a direct comparison. My #2806 is working fine for me, but I saw some others using Kangxin heat up faster.

    I also bought a Vapor Shark rDNA 40 clone, which show the logo 'Evolv DNA 40' after deep sleep, and it is really slow on heat up.

    Features
    It seems to me that the Kangxin #1660 work closer to the authentic as some button push combination is missing on my #2860. You might compare the instructions to see which of them are missing and how important they are to you.

    I don't know whether my summary are at all correct, but hope this will help those want ot choose their VF.:)

    Had the 2806 unit for 2 WEEKS now and you have the Vapor Shark rDNA 40 TC Clone now? Do you work for 3FVape? is this Gina?
     
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    Tpat591

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    If you read the three thread you know about the Kangxin improvements to the flask. Specifically the time it takes on wake to fire. If the button is not activated for a period of time, the screen will go dark & unit enters stage 1 sleep. If you press the button the fire button, the unit will immediately wake up and the atty will fire within a half second.

    If no buttons are pressed for more than 30 minutes or so the unit will enter stage 2 deep sleep where when the fire button is pressed, it will display KX-40D for about a second while it retreads the atomizer resistance & it will take a total of about 2 seconds before it will fire. Is that the behavior of the new unit?

    Does it display Temperature Protection when the feature is a activated?

    You say there is a longer ramp up to vape temp after fire button is pressed, can you elaborate?

    Can you give us a bit more information or a detailed review of both units. These are very new and you are the first person I heard of who has both.
     

    bky16

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    Jan 4, 2015
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    I didn't had the Kangxin unit, I come to know it from this forum. In fact, I join some forums in China as well but I didn't get any info on those forum about who the manufacturers are.

    I recall someone talk about having a firmware update and I came across a video showing how fast it reach 400 F at at coil of 0.14 at 20W, which seems to be faster than my unit. Further, as your mentioned, I saw the photo showing KX-40D.

    The new firmware on KX-40D I saw does not show anything like 'temperature protection', it just reach the tempearture then you saw the wattage going down then come up again on long press of fire button.

    As for my VS clone, after some standby time, it shows "Evolv DNA 40" before it actually fires. There is also a noticeable delay that bother me. I'm in fact very curious about why a clone will show "Evolv DNA 40" logo when it wakes up from sleep. And also find that something like "'XXXXXXXXX GENUINE" will show after you reduce it to 1W and hold still for a while. There is no reason to believe that a clone will use a Evolv chip though. It is interesting.
     
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    dwcraig1

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    I didn't had the Kangxin unit, I come to know it from this forum. In fact, I join some forums in China as well but I didn't get any info on those forum about who the manufacturers are.

    I recall someone talk about having a firmware update and I came across a video showing how fast it reach 400 F at at coil of 0.14 at 20W, which seems to be faster than my unit. Further, as your mentioned, I saw the photo showing KX-40D.

    The new firmware on KX-40D I saw does not show anything like 'temperature protection', it just reach the tempearture then you saw the wattage going down then come up again on long press of fire button.

    As for my VS clone, after some standby time, it shows "Evolv DNA 40" before it actually fires. There is also a noticeable delay that bother me. I'm in fact very curious about why a clone will show "Evolv DNA 40" logo when it wakes up from sleep. And also find that something like "'XXXXXXXXX GENUINE" will show after you reduce it to 1W and hold still for a while. There is no reason to believe that a clone will use a Evolv chip though. It is interesting.

    Either it has an Evolv board or someone went to great lengths to clone it.
    Can you better describe the delay?
     
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    BlueridgeDog

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    The new firmware on KX-40D I saw does not show anything like 'temperature protection', it just reach the tempearture then you saw the wattage going down then come up again on long press of fire button.

    This is the chip I have and I am very satisfied with it.
     

    bky16

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    I have the Kangxin. I know how that works. I was asking about the Sunlay and if it behaves exactly the same as the Kangxin or if you note differences and specifically what they are.

    As I had said, I don't have a Kangxin, what I learn about Kangxin is from this forum and the other Chinese forum, and the video I saw how does it heat up. I thought part of it is because I come to know that it had a pre-heat feature. But to say to what a degree that feature wil bring, I am not sure.

    It is my general impression that the appearance and build quality in some aspect of Sunlay is superior. While on the board side, Kangxin seems to prevail.

    I don't have my VF with me, I will try to shoot a video to share with you how does it heat up tomorrow if I can...
     

    VoopingCrane

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    Features
    It seems to me that the Kangxin #1660 work closer to the authentic as some button push combination is missing on my #2860. You might compare the instructions to see which of them are missing and how important they are to you.

    I don't know whether my summary are at all correct, but hope this will help those want ot choose their VF.:)

    Which button combinations are missing on the Sunlays?
     
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