Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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subby

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I wish mine would hurry up and get here, I'm hoping it comes today, left China a week ago. Getting the 1:1 Waida/Sunlay/who_knows.

When it comes I'll take some pictures of it and post them and give some info on performance, have a few builds on several different atty's ready to go and a new married set of LG HE4 just waiting to be put into a mod. Hopefully it performs good but if not it is what it is. Least we will know whether to steer clear of them or not. So now it is just a waiting game.
 

sonicbomb

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My Kangxin unit appears work perfectly with all functions on a kanthal build.
The only discrepancy so far, is the manual says:
screen brightness drops after 15 seconds, after 1 minute it goes into sleep mode
What actually happens is it waits 28 seconds at full brightness, then goes to sleep.
 

LotsaBS

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My Kangxin unit appears work perfectly with all functions on a kanthal build.
The only discrepancy so far, is the manual says:
screen brightness drops after 15 seconds, after 1 minute it goes into sleep mode
What actually happens is it waits 28 seconds at full brightness, then goes to sleep.

Yes, my screen stays lit for approx 30 seconds then dims completely, falling into "light sleep" mode. However, there is actually another "deep sleep" mode that it falls into after 30-45 minutes of no use (I haven't timed it out perfectly yet.). The difference is that when you hjt the fire button in "light sleep" mode it immediately fires and the display shows wattage and resistance etc. But when it comes out of "deep sleep" mode the screen says "Hello" followed by "KX40D" before it gets to the normal screen ready to fire. Also, if you change attys to one with a different resistance, it will prompt you asking if it is the same one as before or a new one.
 

cobalt327

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Mine is Cu too and your comments apply equally well to my unit. I think some care when screwing atties in and out is in order!
I'm behind in reading all the posts but wanted to ask if the "copper" 510 body is actually copper or is it Cu plated brass? 'Cause brass should hold up a little better.
 

cobalt327

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I received tracking for my hcigar HB dna 40 this morning, I could about kick myself for not ordering another KX Flask instead.
So, (picking your brain here) which one would you opt for (didn't realize you already had a VF clone). These from 3F or FC? I'd like to support 3F but can't afford to make a mistake.
 

dwcraig1

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sonicbomb

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I'm behind in reading all the posts but wanted to ask if the "copper" 510 body is actually copper or is it Cu plated brass? 'Cause brass should hold up a little better.

Judging by the product description and the scoring on the parts, I would say pure copper. I would have preferred brass, but the way the product rolled out it was random which you got.
 

subby

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So he seems to have both versions? The kangxin and the Waida/Sunlay 1:1?

From the review he seems to favor the Waida version with the SS 510. He also says that the build quality is much superior to the Kangxin noting that the Waida is a touch longer so batteries fit easier. This is good news so far. That is some positive feedback.
 

cobalt327

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I may order one of the sunlay ones just to compair the two for myself.
Nothing against reviewers, its' s good info but I take those things with a grain of salt.
Besides if the sunlay chip sucks, I'll replace it with an authentic DNA40 board.
No love for the KX350J?
 

subby

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No love for the KX350J?

If the Waida/Sunlay clones chip works as good as the Kangxin then these will be the flask to get. The build quality is superior in nearly every way. Time will tell though, just wish the Waida/Sunlay had an adjustable 510.

Though I'd probably be trusting the Kangxin chips over the DNA40 chips from what I've read about them so far.
 

gratefulbuddy

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I ordered the silver kangxin 23917 from focal 1/31 - shipped 2/12 - delivered 3/4. It came with brass 510 and caps, usb charging and also shows the temp fluctuation during use rather than the temp protection screen notice.
Nothing new to share beyond what was already said by everybody else regarding the kangxin. It has been trouble free since I got it.
I ordered the waidea/sunlay 14299 from focal 3/19 - shipped 3/24 - delivered TBD.
I will certainly share my thoughts after I receive it.
 

cobalt327

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If the Waida/Sunlay clones chip works as good as the Kangxin then these will be the flask to get. The build quality is superior in nearly every way. Time will tell though, just wish the Waida/Sunlay had an adjustable 510.

Though I'd probably be trusting the Kangxin chips over the DNA40 chips from what I've read about them so far.
Who sells the Waida/Sunlay TP chip? Not the whole mod, WW was talking about replacing a bad chip w/a different one.
 

cobalt327

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I ordered the silver kangxin 23917 from focal 1/31 - shipped 2/12 - delivered 3/4. It came with brass 510 and caps, usb charging and also shows the temp fluctuation during use rather than the temp protection screen notice.
Nothing new to share beyond what was already said by everybody else regarding the kangxin. It has been trouble free since I got it.
I ordered the waidea/sunlay 14299 from focal 3/19 - shipped 3/24 - delivered TBD.
I will certainly share my thoughts after I receive it.
Thanks- will be very interesting to hear what you find.
 

Croak

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Right behind you...
Well, my buttons finally fell inside the housing, and 3FVape has arranged for a free replacement (after sending video proof). Can't fault their service at all, other than it took a full week to resolve (mostly waiting on "the manufacturer" to respond, and my mistake for making the videos private which added a couple days)

I asked if they could "upgrade" me to one of the Sunlay models with me paying the slight price difference, no response yet. After watching that video tpat posted earlier, I'm convinced it's a Kangxin board inside, and I think I can live with the fixed 510.

Alas, my attempt to re-glue the buttons back in my current one ended in disaster. The hot glue part went well, and I braced the back of the buttons in place with a couple of trimmed wooden toothpicks inserted between the soldered leads before applying the glue, and the buttons became super solid with almost no chance to come back out like before. Was pretty happy with that result.

But, I got a bit too enthusiastic with the amount of glue I used, and didn't notice that I had glued up a fair amount of slack in the display ribbon cable, so when I went to reassemble and lay the display into its cutout in the top housing, the ribbon cable snapped in the middle. :(

Since the darn thing was shot at this point, I went ahead and tried to remove the 510 connector. No joy, the solder they used on the negative lead is preventing it from coming out, and the stuff is more like a weld, I've tried a hot soldering iron, a butane torch, and a file, and just couldn't remove enough of it to allow the connector to come out from the top before I decided to give up. I may get motivated again if I come across a replacement board for the housing.

EDIT: As a side note, the USB board is a balanced dual battery type, they did wrap both boards in non-conductive clear tape to prevent shorts, and reinforced all the solder joints with hot glue, and the main board assembly is resting on a rectangle of foam rubber. So while it's messy, it's mostly secure in there.
 
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