After a bit of emailing with Kate at 3Fvape I found out that they are waiting on stock of the silver Sunlay/Waidea VF 1:1. She said if I wanted a black one they could dispatch it immediately, so I agreed and 30 mins later received my tracking info. Happy days!!!
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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After a bit of emailing with Kate at 3Fvape I found out that they are waiting on stock of the silver Sunlay/Waidea VF 1:1. She said if I wanted a black one they could dispatch it immediately, so I agreed and 30 mins later received my tracking info. Happy days!!!
I'm getting a bit concerned with this lower button issue. Seems like its just a matter of time before mine does the same thing...
The 'Kangxin' is the older version though with no usb port. From what I have gathered the next version with usb had some kind of chip 'upgrade' but I can't remember the details.
Both of mine came out as a unit, since they were glued together as a unit. It's an easy fix if you get ahead of it, go to Walmart and buy a high temp hot glue gun and some glue sticks, will set you back about $6.
Get a T5 screwdriver, take the four top screws out, carefully remove the middle plate that holds the display in place, then take a look at the buttons. You should be able to use a toothpick to lift them back in place, and hold them there while you apply more glue (leaving the toothpick in the unit, go ahead and glue it, then you trim it if it sticks out when you're done).
Just don't do what I did, make sure the 510 wiring and the display cable are not in the path of the hot glue avalanche you're about to unleash.
Get a T5 screwdriver, take the four top screws out, carefully remove the middle plate that holds the display in place, then take a look at the buttons. You should be able to use a toothpick to lift them back in place, and hold them there while you apply more glue (leaving the toothpick in the unit, go ahead and glue it, then you trim it if it sticks out when you're done).
Just don't do what I did, make sure the 510 wiring and the display cable are not in the path of the hot glue avalanche you're about to unleash.
Both of mine came out as a unit, since they were glued together as a unit. It's an easy fix if you get ahead of it, go to Walmart and buy a high temp hot glue gun and some glue sticks, will set you back about $6.
Get a T5 screwdriver, take the four top screws out, carefully remove the middle plate that holds the display in place, then take a look at the buttons. You should be able to use a toothpick to lift them back in place, and hold them there while you apply more glue (leaving the toothpick in the unit, go ahead and glue it, then you trim it if it sticks out when you're done).
Just don't do what I did, make sure the 510 wiring and the display cable are not in the path of the hot glue avalanche you're about to unleash.
Thanx Croak. Hopefully it won't be necessary...
https://youtu.be/PYtby7YMopI, posted the link purposely, it's the one a few posts back. Is no one going to comment on the resistance of the nickel coiled atomizer that he had, it was something like 0.38Ω? I'm doing good to get one as high as 0.2Ω.
This is with 28 gauge nickel, 2.5 mm id, I can use my imagination and figure around 0.24Ω if I were to use 30 gauge.
Maybe his was 4 mm or something.
This is with 28 gauge nickel, 2.5 mm id, I can use my imagination and figure around 0.24Ω if I were to use 30 gauge.
Maybe his was 4 mm or something.
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https://youtu.be/PYtby7YMopI, posted the link purposely, it's the one a few posts back. Is no one going to comment on the resistance of the nickel coiled atomizer that he had, it was something like 0.38Ω? I'm doing good to get one as high as 0.2Ω.
This is with 28 gauge nickel, 2.5 mm id, I can use my imagination and figure around 0.24Ω if I were to use 30 gauge.
Maybe his was 4 mm or something.
i guess 30 gauge around a 0.4 would be 14 wraps or so...seems unlikely he did that though..it wasnt twisted with kanthal was it??
It seemed like the atty showed 0.38 ohm early in the video and .028 ohm later in the video....at least that is what I think I saw....
Sorry about the the problems you are having with yours Croak. I have already had several attys that didn't fit without 510 pin adjustment, so I'm glad I made the right choice on that. I'm confused about the model differences - I thought the Kangxin board was the one without issues?
Could be that fixed 510 center pin not getting good contact I've personally experienced that on my authentic DNA40 before when the fatdaddy 510 gummed up and wasn't returning properly to keep a tight connection to the atty.
Or it could be he selected "new" with a hot coil once when resistance could easily be that high, and then kept selecting "same" afterwards. His grasp on how a DNA40 is supposed to work seemed a bit tenuous at best (like putting it in "normal mode" to run Kanthal), so it wouldn't surprise me if he made that error.
Plus, he's using a Smok tank with a Smok Ni200 coil, god only knows how Smok implemented that, based on their TC track record with the M80 Plus.
Plus, he's using a Smok tank with a Smok Ni200 coil, god only knows how Smok implemented that, based on their TC track record with the M80 Plus.
The KX-40D board seems to be relatively free of issues, and I'm pretty sure Sunlay board is based on the same code, and at this point, I'm pretty sure that it wasn't originally developed by Kangxin.
There's a few fingerprints it has...the solid "button top" on the OLED battery icon is one, how it flashes when holding for temp control is another, the wording of the locked messages, and lastly, if you go scroll down to the 1w or up to 40w limits where it auto-stos, then release the button and hold the limit side button again, it round-robins (1w to 40w, or 40w to 1w).
I just got my kangaxin vaporflask dna40 v3 with the usb port. It worked great the first hour with my new nickel build. Then all of the sudden it stopped working. Tried everything with the battery and made sure it had a good connection and even had it plugged in from the usb and nothing. Does anyone have any suggestions? The screen doesn't come on and i'm not sure if you guys have any tips?
I bought it from focalecig. Either getting my money back or have them replace it. Going to take it apart tonight and see if it's just something small,
I ran into a small issue last night with 1659 flask from 3fvape. The battery charge indicator showed a completely empty battery, which is fine as I had been using it for nearly two days. As I continued to vape, I got a "weak battery" notice. The unit continued to operate, but when I fired I would get a hot blast of vapor, too hot. I looked closer and saw that even though I was set at 15 Watts, the display was showing 32 Watts when fired. I should've investigated further, but I was tired at the time and I didn't want to have to rebuild. Anyway, based on the blast of hot vapor I'm fairly certain the temperature was not being limited. With a fresh pair of batteries, everything went back to normal. Edit: I take back the " fairly certain temp wasn't limited" bit. I'm not really sure about that. I do know that the power levels were way off and the device was acting very differently than it had been.
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Anyone have some tips for me? I'd hate to return the vaporflask and wait another 2 months if there's something I can do instead.
Croak is the only one I know who completely disassembled. He posted pics of gutted flask & wiring at end of this tread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/temperature-control/647408-dna-40-clone-discussion-17.html
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