Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[HolmanGT]

Hey man, if you have questions and want to experiment, fire away. I'm willing to try anything for ya. I don't have anything to do for the rest of the day.

Where we differ is, I don't think this is a problem to be solved. I don't think there's anything wrong in any way, with the coil, or the chip, or the mod. I think it's just different behavior than expected.

But yeah, if you want me to build a .10 ohm single coil, or try something different, just let me know. I'll report the results as accurately as I know how.

Lenon,

I was going to jump back in but you have so many variables going and I only have real DNA40s so I would be hard put to delve into this problem much further. Besides you scared me off with "I have all day" statement it's almost dinner time here and I have to keep my priorities in order.

But thanks for the offer... I think.

 

[Tpat591]

just saw that ficalecig had the waidea flask on sale for $64.98. Add the 5% off code and it's a pretty good deal. Since i have the kangxin arriving soon, i guess i'll wait to see how the ipv4 that i have on preorder works before thinking about this one. Maybe an updated version will be out then.

were you able to add the 5% off code? Seems like all codes are blocked on the promo both from usa warehouse & abroad.

 

[ThunderDan]

were you able to add the 5% off code? Seems like all codes are blocked on the promo both from usa warehouse & abroad.

I wasn't able to FWIW, and I ordered from China, last night they didn't have them listed on the USA warehouse unfortunately.

Although I need another mod like I need a hole in the head so I guess it doesn't really matter to me if it takes a few more days.

 

[Tpat591]

i wasn't able to fwiw, and i ordered from china, last night they didn't have them listed on the usa warehouse unfortunately.

Although i need another mod like i need a hole in the head so i guess it doesn't really matter to me if it takes a few more days.

Not expected in usa warehouse until April 10 anyway. By the time they arrive & ship from there probably be a wash anyway.

 

[HDMontana]

Apparently, my Kangxin version is still setting in Chicago. No movement since getting there on March 30th. Now I'm back to .

 

[Croak]

Apparently, my Kangxin version is still setting in Chicago. No movement since getting there on March 30th. Now I'm back to .

Don't lose heart. Might show up on Monday, ahead of the tracking updates. My last Flask, nothing showed on the US side until about eight hours before they delivered it to my door, tracking totally skipped all the Customs scans and USPS processing in New York, just showed up in Florida and then out for delivery.

 

[lenon]

Lenon,

I was going to jump back in but you have so many variables going and I only have real DNA40s so I would be hard put to delve into this problem much further. Besides you scared me off with "I have all day" statement it's almost dinner time here and I have to keep my priorities in order.

But thanks for the offer... I think.

Rofl. No worries man. This is a great chip regardless. And again, like Croak said earlier, the sweet spot seems to be around 1.3-1.5 ohm anyway, so this really should never be an issue.

 

[HDMontana]

Don't lose heart. Might show up on Monday, ahead of the tracking updates. My last Flask, nothing showed on the US side until about eight hours before they delivered it to my door, tracking totally skipped all the Customs scans and USPS processing in New York, just showed up in Florida and then out for delivery.

I hope so. I have been reading everything I can on TP coil builds and practicing building with the 28 and 30 gauge ni200 that I already have. I hope this Kangxin turns out to be a good one and doesn't have the issues that are starting to pop up with them,

 

[Croak]

Well, I'm willing to concede that I accelerated if not outright caused my button failure, by liberally using isopropyl alcohol to clean the buttons, not realizing that it would seriously weaken the hot glue underneath.

Not that hot glue and hot glue alone is the ideal way to mount a high usage button to an aluminum housing, and it would have eventually failed sometime in the future.

Good news is, armed with this knowledge, I was able to clean out all the hot glue in my Cloupor Mini in a matter of seconds when I tore it down to replace the 510 with a Varitube. The difference between the Cloupor and the Kangxin is that Cloupor used hot glue to insure wires didn't move and as an insulator, but used proper mounting for the board, buttons etc.

 

[HDMontana]

Got it. No alcohol on the buttons. Good to know. Wish the Kangxin used a sled similar to the one that the Waidea does.

 

[Phone Guy]

Dan,

The way China is jumping on these DNA40 clones, I have seen a couple of places in the USA selling the clones also, they must be getting orders in GAZILLIONS. I don't think I have ever seen anything take off like these Mods in the two years that I have been vaping and certainly not at the price they are selling them for.

Afterthought; I believe I see this DNA40 clone item driving down the prices of almost all the Mods on the market even ProVape and I have never seen ProVape drop their prices like they have in the last week or so. I find the whole thing very interesting and financially beneficial to Vaper.

I agree completely. Either the clone chips are getting better, or paired with the release and success of devices like the iStick ##w and their price points (20w for under $25 in most cases), the prices of authentic genuine chipped mods have really gone down... Beyond vapes is selling the solara DNA30 for about $90 at the time of this posting...down from what? $175 or something? And that hcigar hb40 for around $100...

The vape landscape has shifted to more powerful chips (or clone chips? ) and devices that cost much less!

 

[dwcraig1]

Re: My DYI Flask sqounker, failure again. Beaten but not defeated, at least not yet. Had I just installed the Evolv board and dropped the bottom feeder idea things would have gone well. I almost did just that but decided to do the bottom feeder, it's not like I need another bottom feeder. Will try again next week.

 

[AnsonJames]

Well, I'm willing to concede that I accelerated if not outright caused my button failure, by liberally using isopropyl alcohol to clean the buttons, not realizing that it would seriously weaken the hot glue underneath.

Not that hot glue and hot glue alone is the ideal way to mount a high usage button to an aluminum housing, and it would have eventually failed sometime in the future.

Good news is, armed with this knowledge, I was able to clean out all the hot glue in my Cloupor Mini in a matter of seconds when I tore it down to replace the 510 with a Varitube. The difference between the Cloupor and the Kangxin is that Cloupor used hot glue to insure wires didn't move and as an insulator, but used proper mounting for the board, buttons etc.

Epoxy is the only way to secure buttons, hot glue is not durable enough.

 

[AnsonJames]

Re: My DYI Flask sqounker, failure again. Beaten but not defeated, at least not yet. Had I just installed the Evolv board and dropped the bottom feeder idea things would have gone well. I almost did just that but decided to do the bottom feeder, it's not like I need another bottom feeder. Will try again next week.

What happened mate?

 

[dwcraig1]

What happened mate?

A few things but the two major ones is (1) the partition on the 510 side will have to be completly ground out the make room for FDV v3 shorty 510 with bottom feeder kit. (2) I had the board too low in the case again and pulled the screen off the ribbon (again).

 

[TheBloke]

We were talking earlier about trying higher resistance nickel builds where possible: 0.2 ohm was mentioned by croak.

This set me thinking - what's the atty with the largest/clearest deck? Is there some 25mm or even 30mm atty out there on which one could (theoretically) build a 20 or 30 wrap nickel coil?

EDIT: I see for example the Big Buddha 30mm RBA, but I don't think it's much help - the base is 30mm, but the deck/chimney is less than half the diameter of the deck, so it's just meant to fit on a 30mm mod, not actually use that space. I'm thinking of something like a Derringer - where the deck takes nearly the full width of the base - but at 30mm!

I don't care about massive overhang, or that it would look like the Seattle Space Needle!




Seriously though.. does such an atty exist? Maybe from a year or three ago, back when regulated mods were just a glint in a Chinese Cloner's eye and most people still used mechs, including those big-f'er 26650s?

And if such an atty does exist, would a 20 or 30 wrap nickel coil even work? It might just collapse under its own weight or something - though doing that spiral coil build, direct onto cotton, as croak talked about would surely fix that.

Thoughts?

PS. croak, that video you posted of the spiral coil build, was that your own video or one you searched for?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

We were talking earlier about trying higher resistance nickel builds where possible: 0.2 ohm was mentioned by croak.

This set me thinking - what's the atty with the largest/clearest deck? Is there some 25mm or even 30mm atty out there on which one could (theoretically) build a 20 or 30 wrap nickel coil?

EDIT: I see for example the Big Buddha 30mm RBA, but I don't think it's much help - the base is 30mm, but the deck/chimney is less than half the diameter of the deck, so it's just meant to fit on a 30mm mod, not actually use that space. I'm thinking of something like a Derringer - where the deck takes nearly the full width of the base - but at 30mm!

I don't care about massive overhang, or that it would look like the Seattle Space Needle!




Seriously though.. does such an atty exist? Maybe from a year or three ago, back when regulated mods were just a glint in a Chinese Cloner's eye and most people still used mechs, including those big-f'er 26650s?

And if such an atty does exist, would a 20 or 30 wrap nickel coil even work? It might just collapse under its own weight or something - though doing that spiral coil build, direct onto cotton, as croak talked about would surely fix that.

Thoughts?

PS. croak, that video you posted of the spiral coil build, was that your own video or one you searched for?

Ive been thinking about this also. I managed to squeeze a 12 wrap build (3 mm) of 0.3mm (28.5g!) Ni into a magma. The dual post helps a lot. With a spaced coil its a tight fit but works beautifully and comes in at 0.22ohms.

For higher resistance in 'normal' atties, best to go for titanium. ) - 0.5 ohm should be no problem with 28/29/30 gauge!

 

[sonicbomb]

My Kangxin is still going strong and I'm still loving it. I am currently trying out a subtank OCC nickel head. Seems to work fine but it seems a little harsh and dry, perhaps it hasn't bedded in yet. I have only had one issue where the TC ramped back the wattage to almost nothing every time I tried to fire it. I took off the tank, put it back on and set it to same coil and it was fine.

I'm beginning to wonder what the point is of a nickel build with a tank. Unless you run the tank dry or push ridiculous amounts of power through it?
I can understand with an RDA to an extent. But again if you know your build I can almost always recognize when the wicking is starting to run dry. Which leaves using the TC to run the wick dry intentionally when changing flavors. Seems like a lot of tech to achieve what a fresh wick does.

 

[cobalt327]

It's my opinion that glue- hot, epoxy or otherwise is not the preferred method for mounting anything. Glue has its place in limited areas but using epoxy to secure boards, buttons, USB connectors, etc. precludes easy disassembly for modifications or repair, and it's a shame so many mods are full of hot glue. Hopefully the manufacturers will pick up on using cradles, etc. and drop using glue of any type as much as possible.

As for the 'glitch' seen w/the 0.01 ohm build, good catch- and very observant! It's just that one build on one mod compared to the same build on another mod does not represent enough data. I would want to see this repeated using different but identical mods/boards before drawing any hard conclusions. What it DOES represent to me is the basis to make a hypothesis that could be used for further testing. But as has been said, even if it exists it's not a fatal flaw (not that anyone has said it was) considering most will not be building that low. But it would be interesting to know exactly what is going on.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

My Kangxin is still going strong and I'm still loving it. I am currently trying out a subtank OCC nickel head. Seems to work fine but it seems a little harsh and dry, perhaps it hasn't bedded in yet. I have only had one issue where the TC ramped back the wattage to almost nothing every time I tried to fire it. I took off the tank, put it back on and set it to same coil and it was fine.

I'm beginning to wonder what the point is of a nickel build with a tank. Unless you run the tank dry or push ridiculous amounts of power through it?
I can understand with an RDA to an extent. But again if you know your build I can almost always recognize when the wicking is starting to run dry. Which leaves using the TC to run the wick dry intentionally when changing flavors. Seems like a lot of tech to achieve what a fresh wick does.

I kind of agree. Having said that, the additional effect of TC beyond avoiding dry hits is that it prevents overheating/'burning' of your juice which I think may turn out to be a major plus from a safety perspective. Farsalinos is doing a study at the moment looking at the effect of high power vaping on juice stability. It will be interesting to see what he says. I think the Evolv guys alluded to this as one of the major drivers for getting in this TC area!