where is the best place to order this flask from, link please (state-side if possible)....thanks a bunch!
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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State side, that will cost probably twice as much. I would be more inclined to go with the genuine article before I would pay that much for the cloned one.
But then again by the time I'm done I could have just bought the real one. The price we (I) pay for an education.
http://www.vapinart.com/cart/Vapor-Flask-Dna-40-V21-Gun-Metal--P1445.aspx
Yeah, that was my thought too. Not enough to hassle with canceling the order and reordering from the USA warehouse. I'll just be patient.
are ya talking about angel cigs usa warehouse?....i cannot afford the real device.
somebody talk to me, sure would appreciate it !
somebody talk to me, sure would appreciate it !
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Naw, FC.
http://focalecig.com/search/keyword-VF
The first two are shipping from the US, but aren't expected in the US until April 10th.
Still that is the cheapest you will find one from the "US".
thanks^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
rite up my alley, thanks a million
edit: just ordered the blk v3 dna40 flask
rite up my alley, thanks a million
edit: just ordered the blk v3 dna40 flask
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The reason to use it in a tank besides the speculated safety benefits is that it can give you consistency in the vape and consistency in the flavor, provided you have a stable platform (Ni200 friendly atty, have mastered the art and science of making of coils and wicking, aren't exposing your mod to large swings in environmental temps).
Another way to think about it is cooking. Around 100 years ago, there was no thermostat for your oven, there was no rheostat or valve for your stove burners (why do you think they called them "burners" in the first place?), and getting consistent results out of the kitchen was much much more difficult.
Experienced cooks, using their own equipment, could produce good results, but getting those same results with different equipment, by people without the same degree of experience, was a daunting, almost impossible task. That skill didn't come easy.
The advent of electric and gas stoves and ovens caused a revolution in cooking and baking (and coffee making!), simply because we could now more precisely control the most important variable in the process, temperature, and allowed people at home to replicate the results of professionals with a lot less effort. Took a lot more years, but even men cooking slabs of meat in the back yard benefitted from this, thanks to propane grills.
Where we are at in vaping right now is similar to that shift between throwing wood or coal in the cast iron stove and the first wave of gas and electric stoves. Sure, you can get good results, but for Joe Average, replicating those results is a huge challenge (and trying to pass that knowledge on and dealing with the endless failures is why forums like ECF came about).
In a few device generations, we'll be experiencing the equivalent of convection ovens and induction stove tops and even microwave ovens, and the average vape consumer won't need to master as many arcane arts, they can just dial in a temp and vape, confident that the hardware will do the hard work for them.
In your particular case with the Subtank, the pre-built Ni200 coils are good in theory, but the current coil head designs being retrofitted to nickel falls short of the goal. Ideally, somebody will make a mass market affordable tank that has disposable heads that don't have such long legs on the coils, and that have much better conductivity/low resistance between the coil head, base, and 510 connector. Then we'll have something.
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That's maybe the only thing that pisses me off with TC... The environmental changes. Few days ago I had a swing from 64.4F to 86F and boy did that resistance jump... Last couple of days the temperature fell back into the 65F range and the resistance went back to what it was.
Leaving the mod for hours in my pants doesn't help either. If I leave it on the desk, everything is fine.
I am going to try out titanium as low ohm builds like 0.11 are too low to be stable with these occasional temperature changes.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Well, I'm willing to concede that I accelerated if not outright caused my button failure, by liberally using isopropyl alcohol to clean the buttons, not realizing that it would seriously weaken the hot glue underneath.
Not that hot glue and hot glue alone is the ideal way to mount a high usage button to an aluminum housing, and it would have eventually failed sometime in the future.
Good news is, armed with this knowledge, I was able to clean out all the hot glue in my Cloupor Mini in a matter of seconds when I tore it down to replace the 510 with a Varitube. The difference between the Cloupor and the Kangxin is that Cloupor used hot glue to insure wires didn't move and as an insulator, but used proper mounting for the board, buttons etc.
Isopropyl alcohol is definitely the best way to remove hot glue. I used it when I converted my cana mod to a DNA 40 when they first came out.
Regarding yours tasting harsh and dry, what temp are you running it at? I run my OCC coils at 560 degrees, because given the leg length, the actual temperature of the coil is always going to lower than what the chip thinks it is.
In addition to everything Croak said, which was a very interesting read btw, It really does depend on what you consider ridiculous amounts of power. I like to set my DNA40 devices at 40w. I don't think that's ridiculous amounts of power, but you might. Depending on the pg/vg ratio of the juice that I use, temperature protection still saves me from dry hits.
Mine doesn't taste harsh and dry at all, but when I use the stock heads with a 95% VG juice, I hit temperature protection shortly after hitting the fire button. If I didn't have it, I would be burning the wick and getting a dry hit, even though the tank is full. If I was running at 20w instead, maybe that wouldn't happen, but that's not where I like to vape.
And that's what it really boils down to. Temperature protection, as Croak elaborated on, is really about consistency. I can get the same temperature vape (I like it warm to hot) out of any device I put on top of my flask. I don't have to care if the coil is .3 ohm, or .12 ohm. I just set the temp and go, and I get the same temp vapor. I won't get the same flavor, but that goes back to what Croak was getting into I think.
Also, setting different temperatures can significantly affect the flavor of your juice. For instance, fruity flavors tend to come out more at lower temps, and custard flavors tend to become more pronounced at higher temps. That's just one example. The idea is, you can play with different temperatures until your juice tastes the way you want it to taste.
Edit: If you can't get your OCC coils to taste the way you want them to, I'd like to suggest getting an Atlantis, and rebuilding the stock coils with a horizontal, 28g 11 wrap nickel coil. It comes out to about .13, and if you put enough wick in it, you don't hit temperature protection very much at all, and it's literally the best vape I've had to date. To me, the flavor is even better than a dripper, and the vapor produced is more than the stock coils. It may suck for you though, like I said above, it's all about what *you* like.
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You know, I always get a little offended by statements like "ridiculous amounts of power". It comes off like an iced tea drinker thinking coffee drinkers are crazy. Where it really ticks me off is when some restrictive airflow-barely inhales tootle-puffer that's never ran over 10-15 watts and always uses nasty, runny high PG juices speaks of things they haven't experienced for themselves.
Not saying Sonicbomb is one of those guys, really just saying one man's "ridiculous" is another man's "just right".
Not saying Sonicbomb is one of those guys, really just saying one man's "ridiculous" is another man's "just right".
I just had a thought about this: that short burst of 23A must be why the genuine Vapor Flask (and presumably other genuine DNA 40 devices) have a very short list of supported batteries - VTC3, 4 and 5, and the LG HE4. Because they're all 30A or higher, and the board can do 23 A, albeit briefly.
On the surface this would have made a big difference for our picking batteries on the clones - we really shouldn't be using Samsung 25Rs, EFest 3100s, etc, if there's any chance it could be hitting 23A for that preheat?
But you're pretty certain that they're not?
Or, and this may be a stupid question, is there any chance that the reason lenon and others' devices aren't doing that 23A is because he doesn't have batteries that will support it? lenon already mentioned that he is using the 20A EFest 3100mahs.
I say a stupid question because probably that's impossible? The batteries have no circuitry, so there'd be no way of the device knowing its max capacity?
This was an awesome analogy!
Great point, and now I understand why that's already happened, just recently!
Just today I saw a review of the new Innokin iSub. One of its special features is that the coil comes through the AFC, such that the 510 connector is the base of the coil. Before you posted I thought that was kind of neat, but mostly because it allowed for removing/replacing coils without emptying the tank. Now I understand the real benefit!
It doesn't come with nickel coils yet, but surely they will be announcing those very soon.
It's so new that I can't find any photos on product pages yet, so I've taken and annotated a couple of screenshots from this Youtube review:
(click for larger)
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I just had a thought about this: that short burst of 23A must be why the genuine Vapor Flask (and presumably other genuine DNA 40 devices) have a very short list of supported batteries - VTC3, 4 and 5, and the LG HE4. Because they're all 30A or higher, and the board can do 23 A, albeit briefly.
On the surface this would have made a big difference for our picking batteries on the clones - we really shouldn't be using Samsung 25Rs, EFest 3100s, etc, if there's any chance it could be hitting 23A for that preheat?
But you're pretty certain that they're not?
Or, and this may be a stupid question, is there any chance that the reason lenon and others' devices aren't doing that 23A is because he doesn't have batteries that will support it? lenon already mentioned that he is using the 20A EFest 3100mahs.
I say a stupid question because probably that's impossible? The batteries have no circuitry, so there'd be no way of the device knowing its max capacity?
This was an awesome analogy!
Great point, and now I understand why that's already happened, just recently!
Just today I saw a review of the new Innokin iSub. One of its special features is that the coil comes through the AFC, such that the 510 connector is the base of the coil. Before you posted I thought that was kind of neat, but mostly because it allowed for removing/replacing coils without emptying the tank. Now I understand the real benefit!
It doesn't come with nickel coils yet, but surely they will be announcing those very soon.
It's so new that I can't find any photos on product pages yet, so I've taken and annotated a couple of screenshots from this Youtube review:
(click for larger)
The LG he4 (and he2) is a 20 amp battery though.
20 amp continuous, 35 amp max pulse discharge. Not sure if that has an effect or not. I guess I will find out. Ordered a new set of he4's for the flask clone. Took the batteries 26 hours to get from Florida to Montana. My flask update says it still sets in Chicago after 6 days.
Samsung 25r is also rated to 35a burst (which is like for 30-60 seconds, so what we do when we vape is really burst, not continuous). These high drain batteries were meant for power tools, the loads, and durations we're putting the loads on them, rarely approach what they could see in a professional power tool.
LG HE2/HE4 and the re-wrapped versions of them sold as Efest 2500mAh are all 20a continuous and 35a burst. Efest just stretches the truth and puts the burst rating on them.
LG HE2/HE4 and the re-wrapped versions of them sold as Efest 2500mAh are all 20a continuous and 35a burst. Efest just stretches the truth and puts the burst rating on them.
I just had a thought about this: that short burst of 23A must be why the genuine Vapor Flask (and presumably other genuine DNA 40 devices) have a very short list of supported batteries - VTC3, 4 and 5, and the LG HE4. Because they're all 30A or higher, and the board can do 23 A, albeit briefly.
On the surface this would have made a big difference for our picking batteries on the clones - we really shouldn't be using Samsung 25Rs, EFest 3100s, etc, if there's any chance it could be hitting 23A for that preheat?
But you're pretty certain that they're not?
Or, and this may be a stupid question, is there any chance that the reason lenon and others' devices aren't doing that 23A is because he doesn't have batteries that will support it? lenon already mentioned that he is using the 20A EFest 3100mahs.
I say a stupid question because probably that's impossible? The batteries have no circuitry, so there'd be no way of the device knowing its max capacity?
This was an awesome analogy!
Great point, and now I understand why that's already happened, just recently!
Just today I saw a review of the new Innokin iSub. One of its special features is that the coil comes through the AFC, such that the 510 connector is the base of the coil. Before you posted I thought that was kind of neat, but mostly because it allowed for removing/replacing coils without emptying the tank. Now I understand the real benefit!
It doesn't come with nickel coils yet, but surely they will be announcing those very soon.
It's so new that I can't find any photos on product pages yet, so I've taken and annotated a couple of screenshots from this Youtube review:
(click for larger)
The amperage that a device pulls out of the battery is a function of ohms law. There's no upper limit (within reason, I'm sure no battery is capable of putting out 500A for instance) on how much amperage any battery can put out. The question is whether or not it blows up in your face or vents at that amperage over time.
I can't find it now, but I've seen a data sheet from Sony indicating that the vtc5 can put out, IIRC, 150 amps for .5 seconds safely.
In other words, the pulse and amp limits are simply numbers that are considered safe, and have no bearing on the actual ability of the battery to produce said amperage, or even higher amperage.
Btw, I'm fairly certain that "pulse limit" is considered to be the amperage that a battery can safely produce for 30 seconds. Don't quote me on that though, look it up if you have a question.
Edit: Also, I use the same Efest 3100mAh battery in my vaporshark, and it preheats just fine. These are 20 Amp pulse batteries, which means the continuous rating is probably somewhere around 10-13 amps. That being said, 23 amps for .5 seconds of preheat isn't hurting the battery, and it gets hotter while being charged than it ever does during use.
Furthermore, keep in mind that the vaporflask, since it uses the two batteries in parallel, spreads the amp load across both batteries, so 23 Amps is only 11.5 amps per battery.
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Thanks guys! And duh, yeah of course I forgot that for the VF the amperages are halved in normal, parallel use - though that alone might not be enough to change the genuine's required batteries, because the VF can also function on one battery.
But yeah that can't be a factor in the pre heat or not.
I think I'll probably get the EFest 3100 purples, because 6200mah would be lovely.
I also want to get a charger that shows the current capacity of the batteries, so I can double check that my mod is using both - having read some people having issues with that on some of the clones. Maybe the EFest Luc v4, which seems quite highly regarded.
Edit: or quite possibly the Nitecore D4, because I can get one more easily from my preferred vendor - also highly regarded by the Danish battery/charger testing guy!
But yeah that can't be a factor in the pre heat or not.
I think I'll probably get the EFest 3100 purples, because 6200mah would be lovely.
I also want to get a charger that shows the current capacity of the batteries, so I can double check that my mod is using both - having read some people having issues with that on some of the clones. Maybe the EFest Luc v4, which seems quite highly regarded.
Edit: or quite possibly the Nitecore D4, because I can get one more easily from my preferred vendor - also highly regarded by the Danish battery/charger testing guy!
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The easiest way to figure out if it's using both batteries is to just put a single battery one tube then the other and see if it works. Just saying
Don't. Don't ever buy Efest by choice. Just get the original that's under the wrapper, instead of the bottom bin near-rejects they sell to Efest.
And I don't recommend anyone get the 3100's from Panasonic in any case, testing has shown they don't have much more if any usable battery life over the 25r or HE2/4s, because as voltage drops, they lose a lot of efficiency. Besides that, has anyone confirmed they actually fit in the Waidea flask?
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