Didn't you order somewhere around the 14th? Txtard ordered on the 6th. Hardly a comparison.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Did they say what order dates they managed to ship before they ran out?
Damped, please note what Weird Willy is saying about how tight it is in the flask as far as 510 space goes. Only a V3 Shorty will work. If you try to mill down the 510 surface to make it thinner attys will sit lower and the 510 may bottom out. on the battery terminal.@dwcraig1
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush.
I put a 1/4" bolt through it (the complete v3 shorty), secured with nuts, put into an electric drill and ran it against a file down to 18.5 mm.
Nice thx for the tip so you haven't reduced the horizontal thickness of the 22mm washer I was thinking about that but maybe it's too difficult to do and I want a good result so first I will see how it looks, 0.65 is not so much but it is not flush and the main reason for the replacement was"a flush mounted atty" lol or maybe better I choose for a mounting without the washer, hmm..... I must think about that a little more, when it's possible to reduce the horizontal thickness without destroying the upper surfacethat would be the best option I think, ah we will see when the FD arrives how it looks on the FV, in the mean time mine fire-button (sometimes not always) refuses to work so maybe I'm gonna replace that switch also if I can find one.
I did open Kangix flask, wires are OK but there is no output on positive pin, my best guess is that board died since wire is OK and soldered to the board. Board itself turns on, buttons work etc, but output to atty not.
Anyhow, I will see what I will do, if I decide to rebuild it with evold dna 40 I need to but also new buttons as current ones are piece of s***t.
Will see what I will do, for now I am back to my ZNA with evolv DNA40 in it
You checked for voltage at the wire connection points to the 510 with a meter while firing? First Kangxin I heard of dropping off like that. Where did you buy it and when?
Edit: See you received your Kangxin 48 days ago from 3Fvape. I would contact 3FVape & see what they say because Kangxin offers 3 month warranty on atomizers & 6 months on battery which I interpret to mean it carries a 6 month warranty.
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The FC website said those who ordered before April 7 would ship by April 10, after would ship April 23. The April 10 shipment was delayed a week because the jackass who runs the US warehouse went on his honeymoon without telling FC.
-Treeburner
He's the same guy who updates that message so I doubt its current. I was asking because PhoneGuy seems to be getting impatient & I still think he will get his faster from China than the USA Warehouse until they catch up. Mine should be here tomorrow on a China order placed on April 6th. 13days.
@dwcraig1
Damped, please note what Weird Willy is saying about how tight it is in the flask as far as 510 space goes. Only a V3 Shorty will work. If you try to mill down the 510 surface to make it thinner attys will sit lower and the 510 may bottom out. on the battery terminal.
Yes I ordered the V3 shorty thx and indeed I wasn't aware of the extra lenght downwards but like you said ;
@dwcraig1
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush. it's only 0.65 mm maybe less
I thought a small difference couldn't be a problem but I will not take any risk about security and when the space inside the VF isn't capable of taking such a small difference I think I have to consider mine upgrade
Damped, please note what Weird Willy is saying about how tight it is in the flask as far as 510 space goes. Only a V3 Shorty will work. If you try to mill down the 510 surface to make it thinner attys will sit lower and the 510 may bottom out. on the battery terminal.
Yes I ordered the V3 shorty thx and indeed I wasn't aware of the extra lenght downwards but like you said ;
@dwcraig1
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush. it's only 0.65 mm maybe less
I thought a small difference couldn't be a problem but I will not take any risk about security and when the space inside the VF isn't capable of taking such a small difference I think I have to consider mine upgrade
doubt that warranty will work since I replaced 510 with fat daddy v3 one month ago
@dwcraig1
Damped, please note what Weird Willy is saying about how tight it is in the flask as far as 510 space goes. Only a V3 Shorty will work. If you try to mill down the 510 surface to make it thinner attys will sit lower and the 510 may bottom out. on the battery terminal.
Yes I ordered the V3 shorty thx and indeed I wasn't aware of the extra lenght downwards but like you said ;
@dwcraig1
On my Kx with the 22 mm washer it is about 0.65 mm above the plate, without the washer it's flush. it's only 0.65 mm maybe less
I thought a small difference couldn't be a problem but I will not take any risk about security and when the space inside the VF isn't capable of taking such a small difference I think I have to consider mine upgrade
If you mill the top of 510 it will not sit any lower. Without the washer it will sit 65 mm lower. It fit on Willie's and without the washer, close but fits.
I would leave out the washer. Maybe add a piece of Kapton tape under it (polyimide film) on top of the battery connection.
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@dwcraig1
If you mill the top of 510 it will not sit any lower. Without the washer it will sit 65 mm lower. It fit on Willie's and without the washer, close but fits.
I would leave out the washer. Maybe add a piece of Kapton tape under it (polyimide film) on top of the battery connection.
You say "Without the washer it will sit 65 mm lower" that's true but this is also true " with the washer it will sit .65 mm higher" so with the washer the 510 connection goes .65 less inside the VP and from that perspective it is better to use a washer then without.
But the washer is not that so important for me, for the looks I think it's nice when the hole space on the top-plate is filled.
If you mill the top of 510 it will not sit any lower. Without the washer it will sit 65 mm lower. It fit on Willie's and without the washer, close but fits.
I would leave out the washer. Maybe add a piece of Kapton tape under it (polyimide film) on top of the battery connection.
You say "Without the washer it will sit 65 mm lower" that's true but this is also true " with the washer it will sit .65 mm higher" so with the washer the 510 connection goes .65 less inside the VP and from that perspective it is better to use a washer then without.
But the washer is not that so important for me, for the looks I think it's nice when the hole space on the top-plate is filled.
Just received my KX VF clone Friday and it has regular thread adjustable 510 pin. After reading this thread, the FD v3 shorty is my best option. Thank you all for the awesome thread and advice.
Ok, I'm curious to know how does the spring loaded pin affect temp control? I've heard it wreaks havoc on resistance readings.???
Please conduct some tests and report back to us
For the purpose of keeping everything clear, because of the different makes and versions coming out of China.
The spring Fatdaddy v3 shorty upgrade I did was on the Waidea VF clone, this upgrade will not work on the Kangxin VF clone without washers or serious modding to the top cap.
WARNING THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY proceed at your own risk !!!
If you screw up your VF clone don't blame me I'm what you call a professional don't try this at home!!!
What you will need:
Steps to take:
Here is a picture of the Waidea VF clone after replacing the fixed pin 510 assembly with the Fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly
While I had mine apart I went ahead and replaced the Waidea clone board with the latest authentic DNA40 revision, I don't recommend this for inexperienced and I refuse to wright a step by step how to for that LOL
Here is a pic of everything back together with the authentic DNA40 board and Fatdaddy v3 shorty installed working.
The spring Fatdaddy v3 shorty upgrade I did was on the Waidea VF clone, this upgrade will not work on the Kangxin VF clone without washers or serious modding to the top cap.
WARNING THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY proceed at your own risk !!!
If you screw up your VF clone don't blame me I'm what you call a professional don't try this at home!!!
What you will need:
- Waidea VF clone **(Not the Kangxin)**
- Fatdaddy v3 Shorty 510 assembly **Only the v3 shorty will work**
- Good soldering station (I use a 150watt)
- Soldering flux
- Solder
- Soldering skills, steady hands and patience LOL
Steps to take:
- Remove the 4 screws holding the top plate on
- Gently pull up on the top cap until you can see the weird round stainless nut
- With a pair of needle nose pliers gently loosen and unscrew this nut
- The fixed center pin should now come out
- Remove the crap stripped and twisted ground wire from the 510
now your top cap should be completely separated from the rest of the mod, - With a 1/2" (13mm) wrench remove the brass nut holding the existing 510
- Remove the existing 510 assembly
- Replace with the Fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly and tighten down with the brass nut
- Cut the loop in the ground leaving enough length to reach the 510 assembly
- Solder the ground wire to the ground washer supplied with the Fatdaddy v3 shorty
- Slide the now soldered ground over the 510 assembly and use the brass nut left over from the original 510 assembly to sandwich the ground washer securely between both brass nuts
- De-solder the existing fixed center pin from the positive wire, and remove the weird round nut from the wire.
- Slide the small brass center pin nut from the Fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly over the wire
- Next slide the tiny o-ring from the Fatdaddy v3 shorty shorty assembly over the wire
- Next slide the spring from the Fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly over the wire
- Flux and tin the wire end and solder in the Fatdaddy v3 shorty center pin
- Install the center pin assembly into the Fatdaddy v3 shorty base
- Carefully reinstall your top cap and screw back down tightly.
Here is a picture of the Waidea VF clone after replacing the fixed pin 510 assembly with the Fatdaddy v3 shorty assembly
While I had mine apart I went ahead and replaced the Waidea clone board with the latest authentic DNA40 revision, I don't recommend this for inexperienced and I refuse to wright a step by step how to for that LOL
Here is a pic of everything back together with the authentic DNA40 board and Fatdaddy v3 shorty installed working.
I ordered some stuff from Angelcigs that shipped in the 16th and arrived on the 18th. Usa shipping obviously.
My line of thought was if his shipped out from the usa, it should get to him in just a few days. Opposed to what I'm optimistically figuring will be 10 to 14 days from China.
All dependant upon if I had ordered from the usa warehouse on the 14th, would they have had enough inventory to send my order (theoretically placed on the 14th) with the current shipping orders?
Impatient? Me? Nah.... The neighbors keep wondering why my sleeping bag is next to the mailbox, but other than that - I'm cool man.... LOL
Weak springs or gummed up assembly will cause continuity issues, but other than that they work just fine.Ok, I'm curious to know how does the spring loaded pin affect temp control? I've heard it wreaks havoc on resistance readings.???
Please conduct some tests and report back to us
I have Fatdaddy v3's in all my DNA40's with exception to the Kangxin VF clone and have never had any issues.
HAHA you sound like me I'm most impatient when it comes to vapemail
Another thing I'd like to add is this.
Anyone in the market for one of these China VF clones I recommend getting the Waidea VF clone instead of the Kangxin
The Waidea is more of a 1:1 clone, and has by far better assembly quality.
For the money and if you plan to upgrade the chip to an authentic hands down the Waidea is the way to go.
The Kangxin is a hot glue and epoxy nightmare and would not be worth attempting an upgrade IMO.
FYI the boards in both are identical down to every component and marking, which makes me feel even more that they are sourced from the same vender with slight programing changes.
Anyone in the market for one of these China VF clones I recommend getting the Waidea VF clone instead of the Kangxin
The Waidea is more of a 1:1 clone, and has by far better assembly quality.
For the money and if you plan to upgrade the chip to an authentic hands down the Waidea is the way to go.
The Kangxin is a hot glue and epoxy nightmare and would not be worth attempting an upgrade IMO.
FYI the boards in both are identical down to every component and marking, which makes me feel even more that they are sourced from the same vender with slight programing changes.
That's great news. I guess I need to order a FDV v3 shorty then. My Wiadea flask is on its way, the dna40 will be ordered after I decide if temp control is something I like or hate.
I'm still on the fence about the dna40, I'm wondering if it might be a better idea to skip the 40? I dunno yet. And if I ever get off my .... and send back (rma) the 4 or 5 dna's I've got, I'll have so many chips. LOL
My goal is to try temp control with the ChiNA40... If I like it, the coil building, learning curve, etc... A dna40 is pretty easy to get and retrofit.
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