Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[Tronk72]

Well after a couple of days with my Waidea flask and its ChiNA40 chip, I can tell you that the chip is not as effecient as my genuine DNA20 in my other flask. I'm vaping the exact same atty's, same coils, some wattages and I'm running the same batteries down in 1 day on the ChiNA40 chip vs the genuine DNA20...obviously <20w on the ChiNA40 chip too. I've been vaping the exact same everything... I'm averaging a Taifun GT2 (5ml) and a Squape Reloaded (4.5ml) a day (1 tank each full), on the DNA20 flask I'm easily getting the full day and sometimes a day and a half or more. On the ChiNA40 chip I'm running out of battery before the day is up, yesterday I had to swap out for new fresh charged batteries because it wore the 2 fully charged one down. Not complaining, just sharing my experiences... These will both get real DNA40's when they arrive

When I first got my Waidea flask I put 2 brand new 2500 mah. purple Efest and they lasted about ten hours. I then replaced them with two relatively new Samsung 25r and the difference was very noticeable (about twice as long). Perhaps I got some bad Efest, but I assumed they would last longer because of their larger capacity. What batteries were you using?

 

[dwcraig1]

When I first got my Waidea flask I put 2 brand new 2500 mah. purple Efest and they lasted about ten hours. I then replaced them with two relatively new Samsung 25r and the difference was very noticeable (about twice as long). Perhaps I got some bad Efest, but I assumed they would last longer because of their larger capacity. What batteries were you using?

I'm using 2900 mah Panasonic's in mine but I have quite a few of the Efest 2500's that I use in other mods with good performance.

 

[Phone Guy]

I've tried with the 2900 mah Panasonic pf. I've tried vtc5 (2600 mah) and I just ordered some Samsung 25r today. So I guess we will see. I'm confident that the ChiNA40 chip is not as efficient in battery life as the genuine dna20 in my other flask. And I'm assuming the dna40 will be a similar experience as the dna20? I'll know once the dna40's get here - whenever that will be.

 

[Vassago01]

Guys i just have a question. i got the kangxin cip. (Brass 510)
I dont know if the temperature is working properly. Yes it does not burn my cotton at 420.
I even tried going up to 490 and it still would not burn. Thus ALWAYS getting a cool vape.
Anyone having this problem?

Also please help me to get a warmer vape NOT by jus changing the temperature. I still do not understand the difference between 0.11 Ohm (low resistance) from 0.19 Ohm( higher resistance). What makes it warmer vape? i heard from MikeVapes that lower ohm like 0.11 gives me a warmer vape. However, i dont feel too much of a difference.

Currently my setup is
Derringer
0.13
27W
480F

Clean your battery caps and threads and check you 510 ground, i had the same problem on Waidea VF when I got it. It seemed like 15w was the same as 30w not matter how high i set it, it would not fire hot. I checked my ground and cleaned off the 510 really well and took a wire bush to inside threads of battery caps and cleaned off the black paint really good. All works fine now and has been since I got it. Not sure if this is the same problem with your Flask but may be a good place to start.

 

[WeirdWillie]

I've tried with the 2900 mah Panasonic pf. I've tried vtc5 (2600 mah) and I just ordered some Samsung 25r today. So I guess we will see. I'm confident that the ChiNA40 chip is not as efficient in battery life as the genuine dna20 in my other flask. And I'm assuming the dna40 will be a similar experience as the dna20? I'll know once the dna40's get here - whenever that will be.

I don't know your vaping habbits, but I can tell you for sure with 25r's both the waidea and the kangxin last just as long as authentic VF40 and/or my 3d printed DNA40, I can go 24+ hours on a single charge, and vape 1-3/4 full size Lemo's a day (aprox 8-10ml) 30/35 watts.
I'm not a chain vapor by no means but work 16-18 hour days and vape like I used to smoke 6-8 tugs an hour or so.

 

[Treeburner1983]

My black Waidea VF V3 from 3Fvape is finally being delivered today! Been loving the silver with my Lemo 2 but it will be nice to have another TC mod to play with (in addition to my ipv4 which should be here tomorrow).

-Treeburner

 

[GrandSam]

My black Waidea VF V3 from 3Fvape is finally being delivered today! Been loving the silver with my Lemo 2 but it will be nice to have another TC mod to play with (in addition to my ipv4 which should be here tomorrow).

-Treeburner

Congrats! Looks like mine is in town too. Here's to hoping it will be delivered.

Apparently my V3 will be arriving before my new batteries, so I have one of 3 options
1) Just wait for the batteries (Friday)
2) Use with 1 VTC5 or VTC4
3) Pair up an already used pair of VTC5 or VTC4 batteries. I would probably just use them until the LG HE4's come in.

 

[TheBloke]

I don't know your vaping habbits, but I can tell you for sure with 25r's both the waidea and the kangxin last just as long as authentic VF40 and/or my 3d printed DNA40, I can go 24+ hours on a single charge, and vape 1-3/4 full size Lemo's a day (aprox 8-10ml) 30/35 watts.
I'm not a chain vapor by no means but work 16-18 hour days and vape like I used to smoke 6-8 tugs an hour or so.

I am a chain vaper and I twice measured the Waidea VF, with 2 x Samsung 25Rs (nearly brand new), at about 14 hours of vaping time - which in real time was not far off 24 hours. Similar wattage ranges, and certainly at least 10ml, maybe up to 15ml of juice a day.

Congrats! Looks like mine is in town too. Here's to hoping it will be delivered.

Apparently my V3 will be arriving before my new batteries, so I have one of 3 options
1) Just wait for the batteries (Friday)
2) Use with 1 VTC5 or VTC4
3) Pair up an already used pair of VTC5 or VTC4 batteries. I would probably just use them until the LG HE4's come in.

I would go with 3).

My understanding is that as long as you have a pair of batteries that have always been used as a pair, then it's fine to move them between mods. I originally thought that batteries had to be 'married' to mods, but then I started to question why on earth that would be, so I asked about it in the IPV4 thread - why couldn't I use a pair of batteries I'd used in my VF, in my IPV4? And people confirmed there's no real reason why not.

Problems come if you just take any old two batteries and use them together, when they have different histories and so different max capacities, and maybe even different current charge levels.

What I've done now is label all my batteries in pairs - batteries A1 and A2, B1 and B2, and so on. I move them back and forth between my two dual battery mods, always as a matched pair but not worrying that they're being used in different mods.

The only problem will come when I get my first single battery mod in a few weeks - at that point I'll think I'll buy another pair (by then my fifth pair) and label them S1 and S2, for Single battery mods, and keep those separate from the dual battery pairs and mods.

 

[Treeburner1983]

3) Pair up an already used pair of VTC5 or VTC4 batteries. I would probably just use them until the LG HE4's come in.

This sounds like your best bet, assuming the pair was already married previously before going into the flask.

Enjoy!

-Treeburner

 

[Croak]

Even if not, it's no big deal in a parallel regulated mod, since if one battery is weaker than the other, the stronger one just ends up charging the weaker to balance things out, and the individual battery load is halved in parallel so there's no real worry about uneven resistance, etc.

In a series mod, like the IPV4, it's kind of a big deal to marry, since you want the internal resistance to be as close as possible.

 

[GrandSam]

Thanks Croak and Treeburner!

Unfortunately, the batteries were never actually joined. I am certain however, that they have been drained down to the same number, and charged to the same number every time. They've also been charged an equal number of times. Yes, I am OCD.

 

[TheBloke]

I had a new issue on my Waidea just now, which seems possibly to be a symptom of ground issues?

I picked up the VF for the first time today, and vaped on a 0.50 dual coil build in an Aqua v2 @ 35W. The vape was noticeably anaemic - barely any vapour. After a couple more vapes it got slightly better, but that seemed to be because the atty was warmer and so needed less power; if I waited and let the atty cool, it was back to awful.

I then put on my Atlantis with 0.50 coil which I had been vaping no problems on my M80. Exactly the same problem on the VF: anaemic vape despite set at 30W, same as the M80. The VF read it as 0.60, sending 4.25V, and gave a drastically weaker vape than the M80 did reading it as 0.55 and sending around 4.05V.

The batteries in the VF were very low, reading either empty bar or just a thin line at the bottom (it seemed to vary.) I changed them out for a fresh pair, and now it's vaping fine.

The issue is:

• It did not say weak battery - it vaped, just way underpowered
• When I put the removed batteries on the charger, they both showed 3.4V - they normally say 3.2 and 3.3V when I take them out at a Weak Battery message.
• In the past, my VF has always vaped fine right up until it says Weak Battery - so it vapes fine down to 3.2/3.3V.
  • This is the first time I've experienced sub-power vaping and had to prematurely remove the batteries

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it most likely a symptom of new ground problems?

I know Croak said he noticed problems only when his batteries had lower charge, and that that was very consistent with ground issues. But in his case I think he got actual Weak Battery messages, not a weak vape? I didn't think it was (or should be) possible to send less power than asked, I thought it should either be fine, or Weak Battery? But maybe sub-power is another possible symptom - perhaps that happens at a lower level of ground issue than a full Weak Battery?

I already know my top plate is screwed on as tight as it can be, but I've not taken the extra step of sandpapering the underside or tightening the 510 nut. If this re-occurs, and does sound like a ground symptom, I'll most likely take the opportunity to put the new 510 in and sort a proper ground connection once and for all.

 

[Croak]

It's not unusual. There's likely a fair amount of voltage drop attributable to the grounding, combined with less than stellar boost circuitry. I change my batteries out at around 50% these days.

I've also noticed that sometimes when it gets weak like that, even on a full charge, that resetting it by loosening the battery caps tends to clear it up for awhile. Could just be as simple as getting a slightly better ground when that happens.

 

[TheBloke]

It's not unusual. There's likely a fair amount of voltage drop attributable to the grounding, combined with less than stellar boost circuitry. I change my batteries out at around 50% these days.

I've also noticed that sometimes when it gets weak like that, even on a full charge, that resetting it by loosening the battery caps tends to clear it up for awhile. Could just be as simple as getting a slightly better ground when that happens.

OK fair enough, thanks.

I'll try that battery cap fix if I experience it again. I also forgot to do the probe with the DMM to see if I could detect any increase in voltage drop using either dwcraig's method or Willie's. I'll try that next time as well.

So presumably fixing the ground connection with proper wiring would improve matters, even if it's never going to be perfect due to poor boost?

 

[Croak]

OK fair enough, thanks.

I'll try that battery cap fix if I experience it again. I also forgot to do the probe with the DMM to see if I could detect any increase in voltage drop using either dwcraig's method or Willie's. I'll try that next time as well.

So presumably fixing the ground connection with proper wiring would improve matters, even if it's never going to be perfect due to poor boost?

Hard to say. My Kangxin got weaker at lower charge too, with proper grounding. Just not as bad as the Waidea.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

 

[GrandSam]

I just read through a few pages of the thread. It seems like most people are using single coils, built to around .16/.18.
Any of you using dual coils with success?
I'm contemplating what to build. I have NI200 30g. Don't know what resistance is best, and whether I want dual or single coil. I do know that in the past, I haven't been pleased with single coil kanthal builds...but I'm assuming its different for nickel builds.

 

[Croak]

Single is best for simplicity, I wouldn't dive into a dual nickel build right off the bat. Especially not with a DNA40 variant and its 0.1 ohm low limit. Even with 30ga you'd need close to 20 wraps total to keep it above that with a dual build.

That said, 30g is a good all purpose wire for a DNA40, works good as-is IMO, and it can be twisted to ohm out like 28ga and be a bit more durable in the process. I target higher than most and shoot for 0.2+, so I'm also a bit more biased towards thinner Ni200 than most.

 

[GrandSam]

Single is best for simplicity, I wouldn't dive into a dual nickel build right off the bat. Especially not with a DNA40 variant and its 0.1 ohm low limit. Even with 30ga you'd need close to 20 wraps total to keep it above that with a dual build.

That said, 30g is a good all purpose wire for a DNA40, works good as-is IMO, and it can be twisted to ohm out like 28ga and be a bit more durable in the process. I target higher than most and shoot for 0.2+, so I'm also a bit more biased towards thinner Ni200 than most.

Thanks Croak! According to SteamEngine, with a macrocoil (which I what I typically build) I would need 14 wraps per coil. Either way, I'll try it out with 6 wraps on a 9/64's bit. If I'm not mistaken, that should yield a .15 coil.

 

[TheBloke]

@GrandSam by macro do you mean large loops, ie 3.0mm or 4.0mm etc? Or "not micro" in the sense of not all the coils touching one another?

In the context of it changing the number of wraps for a given resistance I assume you mean the former?

Anyway I only bring it up to check you're aware that with temp sensing Ni200 coils, all coils need to be spaced - ie not "micro" coils in the sense of all coils touching. Touching coils interferes with the temperature sensing.

 

[Angel Eyes]

OK, got a new flask in, and after using it for a while, I am becoming convinced this is the one to have, it is the Waidea built one, SKU 14298 from Focal E-cig - with stainless steel 510 connector and I have had NO ISSUES in the first 2 weeks of use.

● The craftsmanship and fit/finish is amazing, it is exceeding hard to tell this unit from an authentic vapor flask. The unit is heavy and just reeks of high quality. Even the vape store staff is convinced this is a real Vapor Flask and think I am just pulling their leg about it being clone!

● The unit came in with the display in the wrong (upside down) mode, which they called "right" mode, but is upside down for a right hander, and while it came with no instructions, I was able to watch some vapor flask videos and mess around for a while and get the display into left mode, which is oriented correctly for right-hand operation.

● The only preparation I did was cleaning the two battery screw caps with DeOxit (red) cleaner and then treating the threads with NoAlox

● Shipping was fast from China, once they got it in stock, about 12 days to my door in USA, and I think they are now stocking it in USA under SKU 14290

● I am using the LG 18650HE2 batteries frum Illumn.com and they are lasting a pretty good while (two days) and I would recommend them.

● The charger I bought is the NITECORE Digicharger D2 and I like it and it was cheap!

● I am using TEMCO Ni200 28 gauge wire, 14 wraps around a 2.4mm shaft screwdriver (coils not touching each other), and the resistance is 0.16 ohm - I will likely start using titanium wire soon (I think it's likely healthier).

I am using the original Kanger Subtank, which fits this Vapor Flask perfectly and I HIGHLY recommend this tank! - Easy to build and this tank does not leak, regardless of whether you carry it in your pocket, upside down, etc. - something I cannot say about most any other tank or RTA. - It also allows rebuilding the coil without emptying your juice supply!

...

Follow the recipe above, and you will find vaping bliss!