Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
- Thread starter Croak
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
You can order from SXK, minimum five units - they work out to about $51-52 per unit, including shipping and fees, so it's a very cheap way to buy assuming you want want five, or can shift as many as you don't want. You could even make a profit on the others. They'll probably reply to your email in the next few hours (it'll be 08:00 in China in two hours from now.)
There was a mention of a US vendor in this thread selling the 60W for $99.99. It was maybe a week ago. I can't remember any more than that, so you'd have to search this thread or Google (if you're lucky.)
There's a Chinese vendor selling the 40W for $51 and when I live chatted them they said they could get the 60W "with 2-3 days notice" : Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Temperature Control 40W VW Mod They said the 60W would be maybe $3-$4 more. I know nothing about the reliability of the vendor, but they have lots of customer reviews which look authentic and include some negative ones (a good sign of an honest vendor.)
And Focal eCig said they are investigating the possibility of stocking the units, and we're waiting to hear more on that. SXK were out of stock when Focal last contacted them, early last week. If they stock them they are likely to cost a bit more than the above mentioned prices (but still entirely reasonable for what the device is.)
Thanks for the replies guys! I just ordered a Evic VT so I'll probably wait and see if Focal gets them. I've had good experiences with them in the past.
Anyone else take advantage of the vaporshark sales this weekend? Just got my rdna today. Diggin it! Just waiting for evolv to send me my second replacement board so I can officially rejoin this thread. Just got my replacement buttons from digi key also. Here are some pics. Also a burned out Rayn V3 board that I tried to remove the screen from, EPIC FAIL on that procedure.
How about posting the part number for those buttons if you would please. It could help those in need down the road perhaps, I know I wouldn't mind having a couple of them lying around.
these tactile switches are not as clicky as the stock buttons but still an audible click. Also they don't require as much force to depress.
Last edited:
Doris had no news from SXK yesterday, but she will check today to see if they have it ready now. She was surprised to hear vaporbreak was selling the VF and Zero.
Oh really, which one? I just checked three which were 0.06Ω as usual.
SXK ZERO Style Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - Blue, Stainless Steel, 1 x 18650, 1.0~50W - 3FVape
Zero Modz Style Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - Silver, Stainless Steel, 1~60W, 1 x 18650 - 3FVape
Zero Modz Style Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - Black, Stainless Steel, 7~50W, 1 x 18650 - 3FVape
I just emailed her as well, telling her that you had told me that you spoke to her and told her about VaporBreak, and to tell her that 3FVape are also selling the SXK Zeroes, and at good prices.
SXK ZERO Style Temperature Control VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - Purple, Stainless Steel, 1 x 18650, 1.0~50W - 3FVape
The SXK Zero box mod is beautifully crafted from stainless steel with an ocean blue finish. This device is powered by 1 x 18650 battery, and had a variable wattage range from 1.0W to 50.0W in 0.1W increments. There is a LCD Screen that shows the devices battery level, wattage, voltage and atomizer resistance. To top things of the SXK is 510 threaded with an adjustable copper 510 center pin, which will help get a flush connection with your atomizers, please note only atomizers with an ohm resistance from 0.3 ohm to 3.0 ohm will be compatible with this build.
Oh, they have it stated in two places and it does't match, Chypo (typo)
One says "0.03 - 3.0 Ω (I want one like that) and the other says "0.06 - 5.0 Ω
Heck, I could just short the socket and vape that.
Last edited:
They also have one wrong pics on it - the screen pic. Shows one decimal for resistance like the older, non-TC DNA (clones).
It also says 1-50W - the SXKs are 7-50W. But it's definitely a new one, with the resin finish. And that last pic that shows the old-style screen is clearly of a different mod, it doesn't have the resin finish in that pic.
I think they just fubarred the whole listing.
It also says 1-50W - the SXKs are 7-50W. But it's definitely a new one, with the resin finish. And that last pic that shows the old-style screen is clearly of a different mod, it doesn't have the resin finish in that pic.
I think they just fubarred the whole listing.
@dwcraig1 and @Quantum Mech
sorry for the delay. I do have it "working" thank you to everyone for the help. I say "working" because i really have to torque down the battery caps. On the 510 side just a bit of pressure, but on the screen side i probably have to go an additional 45-90 degrees past the point at which it is already tight. i went to town with a wire brush, i have a dremel so i am going to pick up a wire wheel and see if that fully fixes the issue.
using my volt meter, on which i am still a novice, i get some interesting numbers and information. please forgive me if i use the wrong terms as i am sure i will.
i believe the setting on the volt meter that beeps if it finds a short is called continuity. so for the purposes of this post, that is what i will refer to it as, until you all correct me.
*when touching any screw on the top plate with another screw or atty top i get a beep and a 0 reading
*when touching the bottom battery caps, screwed in way to tight in my opinion, i get a beep and zero reading at each screw and the atty
again the bigger problem is the battery tube on the screen side and if i just have the battery tube finger tightened it does beep and have fluctuating reading at the screw or atty. I also looked at voltage from the battery cap to the atty and screws. i am seeing voltage of between 1.7 and i think i saw 3 at one point. I don't fully understand that, is this indicative of a the fact that until the cap is really tightened down it is not finding ground? and again this all goes away when i torque the cap on good
but i am on the way to having a fully fixed mod thanks to the help of all the great people on this site. Thanks again!!
sorry for the delay. I do have it "working" thank you to everyone for the help. I say "working" because i really have to torque down the battery caps. On the 510 side just a bit of pressure, but on the screen side i probably have to go an additional 45-90 degrees past the point at which it is already tight. i went to town with a wire brush, i have a dremel so i am going to pick up a wire wheel and see if that fully fixes the issue.
using my volt meter, on which i am still a novice, i get some interesting numbers and information. please forgive me if i use the wrong terms as i am sure i will.
i believe the setting on the volt meter that beeps if it finds a short is called continuity. so for the purposes of this post, that is what i will refer to it as, until you all correct me.
*when touching any screw on the top plate with another screw or atty top i get a beep and a 0 reading
*when touching the bottom battery caps, screwed in way to tight in my opinion, i get a beep and zero reading at each screw and the atty
again the bigger problem is the battery tube on the screen side and if i just have the battery tube finger tightened it does beep and have fluctuating reading at the screw or atty. I also looked at voltage from the battery cap to the atty and screws. i am seeing voltage of between 1.7 and i think i saw 3 at one point. I don't fully understand that, is this indicative of a the fact that until the cap is really tightened down it is not finding ground? and again this all goes away when i torque the cap on good
but i am on the way to having a fully fixed mod thanks to the help of all the great people on this site. Thanks again!!
They say 0.06 + but actual 0.1 - 0.2Ω
My screen reads ).08Ω with a 0.12 coil
The SXK will fire down to near 0.05Ω (on screen)
Meter set to DC voltage, one probe on battery cap, the other probe on atty base, read when firing. If all is well the voltage will be tiny like 0.05 volts if ground is adequate.
Check both caps.
Last edited:
thanks for the ohm range
just checked the voltage and i get exactly .05 from both battery caps to the atty when firing.
but still theca if cranking down the battery cap does not seem good for the device. any ideas on that?
and the weird reading when the cap is tight but not getting a good ground, i get the 1.7 volts when to device is not firing
just checked the voltage and i get exactly .05 from both battery caps to the atty when firing.
but still theca if cranking down the battery cap does not seem good for the device. any ideas on that?
and the weird reading when the cap is tight but not getting a good ground, i get the 1.7 volts when to device is not firing
You seem to have a good understanding of it now.
It sounds like you need to do more cleaning of the threads, cap threads maybe too.
Last edited:
I'd say just return the thing if you have the option. Not worth the headache. Who knows the place you got it from might let you keep the defective one and send you another. Rare but I hear it happens.
You're reading a constant 1.7V on the positive pole of the 510 connector? That is odd.
- Status
Similar threads
