Whoa ... this thread has grown, took some finding but here it is
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread | Page 179 | E-Cigarette Forum
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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Whoa ... this thread has grown, took some finding but here it is
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread | Page 179 | E-Cigarette Forum
Yup I agree completely. Doris and Focal are responsive and it's nice communicating with them, but they don't do these things out of the goodness of their heart. If we don't take up our chance of a reservation they will sell their 10 unit sample in hours. And we don't even have a reservation at the moment, she offered us the chance of getting one, with a further email, to thank us for the suggestions - it's her offering to ensure we get one, not us helping her sell them.
In my case I arranged to get one from Quantum back when Doris was still saying it wasn't looking likely, and that means I get it for $50 in a week instead of $70 in 9-10 days. Plus of course @Quantum Mech will be providing excellent UK-based warranty and after-sales care. (I'm kidding
)I'll buy one from her as soon as the resistance problems are fixed; I don't want three with the low resistance, but I certainly want at least one that doesn't have it, and it's very unlikely that Quantum's batch will have the fix.
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You probably missed it in the big flood of posts about repairing grounding the other day, but I have already had to fix my 510
It was the Taifun GT2 clone wot did it, actually. Well combined with me screwing it down too tight I expect.
I was driving and vaping, and the resistance was going all funny. Sat at traffic lights I tried to unscrew it, and couldn't understand why it kept turning and turning and turning. Looked down, and oops, the 510 washer plate was loose from the board and spinning freely.
I removed batteries from the unit (still at the traffic lights.. and possibly a little as I was driving away from them..) to prevent any risk of major damage.
When I got home I took off the top plate and found the 510 nut had unscrewed almost completely. And of course the Taifun was still attached. Took me at least half an hour to manage to get it off, it was the devil's own job to re-tighten that nut enough that I could get enough leverage to unscrew the Taifun.
Eventually I managed to get it all back together - I used a spanner to really crank that nut down hard. Seemingly no damage to the wires or the 510, and it's been fine since then. I am now being a lot more careful about screwing things down of course
And I took the opportunity of having the top off to do the top plate/mating surface sanding, just to head off any future issues - I didn't do it super thoroughly, just with my Dremel knock-off ("Rotary Tool") and one of the sanding heads.
That info about the Loctite is very interesting - I have two Magma clones and they are indeed very well endowed, far too much so. I'm used to them not being flush. Maybe I'll consider that in future. Does it have to be special conductive/high-heat epoxy, the kind Willie was talking about a while back?
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Whoa ... this thread has grown, took some finding but here it is
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread | Page 179 | E-Cigarette Forum
Thanks so much.... i was slowly wading through every post with no luck yet!
No, I didn't miss it but the problem FDV was warning about is different than what happened to yours. The force pushes the insulator out of the main body or pushes the cap with the spring off of the insulator. Use Loctite blue so it can still be disassembled if necessary.You probably missed i in the big flood of posts about repairing grounding the other day, but I have already had to fix my 510
It was the Taifun GT2 clone wot did it, actually. Well combined with me screwing it down too tight I expect.
I was driving and vaping, and the resistance was going all funny. Sat at traffic lights I tried to unscrew it, and couldn't understand why it kept turning and turning and turning. Looked down, and oops, the 510 washer plate was loose from the board and spinning freely.
I removed batteries from the unit (still at the traffic lights.. and possibly a little as I was driving away from them..) to prevent any risk of major damage.
When I got home I took off the top plate and found the 510 nut had unscrewed almost completely. And of course the Taifun was still attached. Took me at least half an hour to manage to get it off, it was the devil's own job to re-tighten that nut enough that I could get enough leverage to unscrew the Taifun.
Eventually I managed to get it all back together - I used a spanner to really crank that nut down hard. Seemingly no damage to the wires or the 510, and it's been fine since then. I am now being a lot more careful about screwing things down of course
And I took the opportunity of having the top off to do the top plate/mating surface sanding, just to head off any future issues - I didn't do it super thoroughly, just with my Dremel knock-off ("Rotary Tool") and one of the sanding heads.
That info about the Loctite is very interesting - I have two Magma clones and they are indeed very well endowed, far too much so. I'm used to them not being flush. Maybe I'll consider that in future. Does it have to be special conductive/high-heat epoxy, the kind Willie was talking about a while back?
So I'm slightly confused, I'm going to outfit my waideia flask with the spring loaded 510 but I'm not sure what one to order, I haven't cracked my flask open yet to see what I need for the 510 I'm guessing the blue peice is already in there and it's just the core of the fdv v4 that threads into that blue insulator. If so I believe any v4 will work?
So far I'm loving the flask only issue I have with it is one of the battery caps doesn't line up the cap must have got bumped before it got threaded, best 62 dollars I've spent in the vape game thus far.
So far I'm loving the flask only issue I have with it is one of the battery caps doesn't line up the cap must have got bumped before it got threaded, best 62 dollars I've spent in the vape game thus far.
Fat Daddy Vapes v3 Shorty is the one that fits out of the box, and is what @WeirdWillie fitted. Here's a detailed post by him describing the procedure. @Phone Guy fitted something slightly different, a hybrid - the pin of a FDV v4 I think, combined with something else; search for his post describing it with pictures, it was re-discussed a page or two ago.
Yeah, I wish to keep the single slotted 510 so I'll have to do what phoneguy did Ill have to open up my flask to see where that blue bit came from. I looked at the pictures seems like he just threaded the bottom of the v4 into the blue bit and soldered all the appropriate connections.
This thread is growing fast indeed!
OK, so what would be the best practice if I do decide to order the current version of the 60W Flask? Rip out the 510 and install a new one and properly ground everything? Or am I mixing up things now and there's a software problem? (I can do soldering, cutting, grinding and whatever necessary myself so no problems there.)
OK, so what would be the best practice if I do decide to order the current version of the 60W Flask? Rip out the 510 and install a new one and properly ground everything? Or am I mixing up things now and there's a software problem? (I can do soldering, cutting, grinding and whatever necessary myself so no problems there.)
I have a SXK VS 50W without "new/old atomizer" and I have the Ohm issue too, but it does what it should do. I can use SS 304 without any compromise and that`s an important advantage for me and some of my atomizers. The temperature and NP setting offers enough headroom to power my atties perfect. As far it is very difficult to measure static resistances of atomizers accurately, it will always be a try, taste and edit. So why should I care a couple of hundredth Ohm - I know how to handle this minor issue.
Next year TC boxes will offer further features with more precise measurements, but maybe in the year after next year we will get.....
For us in Europe the doors will be shut in less than a year - nobody knows whether there will be loopholes and so I will buy what I think to need. At the moment the SXK is my best TC mod but I still use my other TC mods. The KX Mini VF does the best Ni200 job, the Waidea and the DNA40 do a good job. So what, I will buy boxes and maybe in a year or two, I will throw the board out and replace it with the latest.....
Boards should be available for Europe.
I have been waiting almost 2 years to buy good regulated stuff - this year is under the sign of TC boxes for me.
Edit: We´re far beyond vaping only. What would we do witout any problem or challenge? ;-)
Next year TC boxes will offer further features with more precise measurements, but maybe in the year after next year we will get.....
For us in Europe the doors will be shut in less than a year - nobody knows whether there will be loopholes and so I will buy what I think to need. At the moment the SXK is my best TC mod but I still use my other TC mods. The KX Mini VF does the best Ni200 job, the Waidea and the DNA40 do a good job. So what, I will buy boxes and maybe in a year or two, I will throw the board out and replace it with the latest.....
Boards should be available for Europe.
I have been waiting almost 2 years to buy good regulated stuff - this year is under the sign of TC boxes for me.
Edit: We´re far beyond vaping only. What would we do witout any problem or challenge? ;-)
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I would say: Use it, use it, use it and if you´ll get a problem, you can think about it and add a body grounding or what`s necessary. Maybe other users found out some improvements. I think there is no need to replace the 510.
There is a software problem in all SXK chips known to date (VF, Zero and rDNA clones): it will read resistance low by at least 0.04Ω increasing as the base resistance rises. I have informed SXK of the problem but we have no idea when this issue will be fixed - very unlikely for any flask bought in the next week or two, certainly. Maybe in a month? Who knows. We don't know how 'deep' the problem goes.
Real Ω | SXK RΩ | Differ | Diff %
1.78 Ω | 1.53 Ω | 0.25 Ω | 13.8%
1.27 Ω | 1.07 Ω | 0.20 Ω | 15.7%
1.08 Ω | 0.92 Ω | 0.16 Ω | 14.8%
0.90 Ω | 0.75 Ω | 0.15 Ω | 16.7%
0.60 Ω | 0.50 Ω | 0.10 Ω | 16.7%
0.42 Ω | 0.35 Ω | 0.07 Ω | 16.7%
0.30 Ω | 0.24 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 20.5%
0.20 Ω | 0.14 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 28.6%
0.16 Ω | 0.12 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 25.9%
0.10 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 40.0%
1.78 Ω | 1.53 Ω | 0.25 Ω | 13.8%
1.27 Ω | 1.07 Ω | 0.20 Ω | 15.7%
1.08 Ω | 0.92 Ω | 0.16 Ω | 14.8%
0.90 Ω | 0.75 Ω | 0.15 Ω | 16.7%
0.60 Ω | 0.50 Ω | 0.10 Ω | 16.7%
0.42 Ω | 0.35 Ω | 0.07 Ω | 16.7%
0.30 Ω | 0.24 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 20.5%
0.20 Ω | 0.14 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 28.6%
0.16 Ω | 0.12 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 25.9%
0.10 Ω | 0.06 Ω | 0.04 Ω | 40.0%
In addition to the above chip problem, many black flasks and some silver flasks have grounding and battery-thread issues, which are the ones you see being described.
I do not believe you need to replace the 510 in any scenario, it's pretty good all told - much better than the previous Waidea and Kangxin flasks.
If you get a sliver flask you may need to do nothing further; I did not (yet), though @dwcraig1 did.
I did have an issue with my 510 brass nut unscrewing, but that may be bad luck and/or it might be me being too rough - either way, I fixed it fairly easily and all that was required was tightening the brass nut, not replacing the whole 510. @dwcraig1 suggested maybe adding a little Loctite glue to the internals of the 510, as a preventative measure against certain long-pin attys, but that's not yet proven to be required and would be easy to do anyway; again not requiring replacement of the 510.
If you get a black you will almost certainly need to thoroughly clean the battery threads, including scraping out anodized gunk with a knife/wire brush and cleaning with alcohol. You probably also need to lift the top plate and sand/Dremel the underside of the top plate and the top side of the flask (where the two join) to create a better connection between the two, for the ground path.
You may also choose to wire in a proper ground, as some have chosen, but that is likely not necessary to get a working flask.
I pre-warned Doris @ Focal about the issues with the black and she has promised to be on the lookout for it, though whether this will translate to fewer problems remains to be seen - they are certainly not going to be sanding them or anything.
Click on his name (avatar), click on "start a conversation", type away, send.
Thanks for the extensive reply Bloke.
Too bad it's a software problem we can't do anything about. The rest (threads, grounding) doesn't scare me at all since taking apart new gear is usually one of the first things I'm doing anyway
Innokin George just posted a new video on YouTube check it out. All types of wire working with there temperature control. Looks like they're pre made. So looks like innokin does not have some super advanced board just a sensor in there pre made coils.
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Thanks!
So yup, there be a tank with a sensor on it!
But what kind of sensor?? @Quantum Mech ? Thermopile?
I will post this in the Innokin Thread, we should discuss in detail there!
Very interesting indeed - could it really allow rebuildables? Probably not yet, there's a mass of coil heads everywhere and I am certain the first tank they announecd, the iSub TC, is a coil tank.
But that sensor looks like it could be made generic, pointing at a spot for a user-made coil..
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It does make me laugh - they go to all that trouble, all that equipment with even a f'ing automatic wire detector, to prove their technology - then they give the job of cameraman to Shaky McShakyson of Shakesville who can't even focus in on the temperature graph they really want you to see to prove the accuracy!
I get that at the start they probably didn't focus in too much on the devices to protect the IP, but there's no excuse not showing the temperature monitoring correctly
"Look, 210°C!" Err no, that's just a random line on a graph whose axis we cannot even begin to see. Thanks, very conclusive.
I get that at the start they probably didn't focus in too much on the devices to protect the IP, but there's no excuse not showing the temperature monitoring correctly
"Look, 210°C!" Err no, that's just a random line on a graph whose axis we cannot even begin to see. Thanks, very conclusive.
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