T5 torx is what I've been using. I think a 1.3 mm Allen works as well?
EDIT: YIKES, a lil bit awkward above me.
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Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread
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EDIT: YIKES, a lil bit awkward above me.
It´s a countersunk bolt M2x8mm with torx T5 head, maybe M2x10mm works too - best in SS 304. Like this
http://www.ebay.de/itm/251743654754?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=550669611090&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.de/itm/251743654754?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=550669611090&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
It turned out the that tool I was using was poorly machined, which made me believe the screw heads were to blame. I bought a good quality Torx driver and the screws come out perfectly.
Since I started using my Kangxin again on a regular basis, the 510 wobble had gotten worse to the point where it felt ike catastrophic failure was immanent. Replacing with an FDV shorty realistically felt beyond my skills so I went for another solution.
I wrapped a collar of Unibond epoxy putty around the underside on the 510 and molded into place. After I took the picture below I had to do some very quick scraping and shaping before it cured completely as I had not allowed for a gap around the edge where the main chassis meets the top plate, and some additional clearance for the sled that holds the LCD.
It's reassembled now and it's rock solid with no play at all.
During the repair it became really clear that using a press fitted and glued 510 was a really poor design choice by the engineers who made this otherwise superb device.
Since I started using my Kangxin again on a regular basis, the 510 wobble had gotten worse to the point where it felt ike catastrophic failure was immanent. Replacing with an FDV shorty realistically felt beyond my skills so I went for another solution.
I wrapped a collar of Unibond epoxy putty around the underside on the 510 and molded into place. After I took the picture below I had to do some very quick scraping and shaping before it cured completely as I had not allowed for a gap around the edge where the main chassis meets the top plate, and some additional clearance for the sled that holds the LCD.
It's reassembled now and it's rock solid with no play at all.
During the repair it became really clear that using a press fitted and glued 510 was a really poor design choice by the engineers who made this otherwise superb device.
To those who've opened the Waidea flask; the wires that connect the chip to the bottom of the mod (the thin wires, only thing preventing the full separation of the top part and the body), those are only for the usb charger, right? Not for grounding? I'm wondering because my usb is long since inoperative and it would be a lot easier working on the insides of the mod if I could just snip those wires.
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My repair job failed. The putty didn't bond properly and in the process of clearing off the old material I managed to snap the cable to the LED.
RIP Kangxin flask, you served me well for all of 7 months.
RIP Kangxin flask, you served me well for all of 7 months.
So you need a small screen for a dna40/Rayn03. They are out there and can be replaced.
Thanks! My fire button broke and I've done a really ghetto fix with an unsecured Hana-type switch. Impossible to find the correct switch without here without paying a fortune [ = too much] in shipping, and can't set the Hana switch as far out as I'd like and get the sled back into the body. Well, it works.
I've had repeated problems with "weak battery" etc so I've had to open it up repeatedly. My Subtank Mini keeps leaking and liquid gets into the mod. Seems to work when I've cleaned it up. In any case, this thing is incredibly sturdy, considering the various ways I've subjected it to extreme abuse, including the "fixing" of it. Just ordered a second one (for $42) even though it's last gen hardware.
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Seriously Man, get this Waidea flask linked to here, the thing is awesome and built as well as the original Vapor Flask, mine is also 7 months old and it seems like it could go another 7 years! Never had any problems with it, except it prefers batteries not to go below half charge, but that's fine, better for the batteries anyway. I just swap for the hot set setting all charged up in my charger!
does anyone know the exact size of the screws in the Waidea, are these like M2 or what? - was going to try and find some really well make ones from Japan or Germany or somewhere, since I go in the thing fiddling around a lot, I will eventually lose one or strip it or something, would like to upgrade the screws.
You know, the more I research it, I am starting to doubt this MADE IN USA statement on the bottom of my Waidea 
Everyone thinks I am weird for doing so, but I use the original (big) Kanger Subtank (in RBA mode) on my Waidea - and I have to give it it's props, first tank I have ever owned that has never leaked! - yeah, it looks a little different being so large, but I don't care, it holds a lot more juice, and DOESN'T LEAK - woohoo!
I`m sure about the M2 and I´m sure about about the lenght. I measured 7mm threading but 8mm (easier too get) will work too and someone posted M2x10mm worked too, but I didn`t test this.
You`ll find many flat head Phillips screw offers in the US ebay
You`ll find many flat head Phillips screw offers in the US ebay
I had to replace the fire switch on one of my Waidea's but I think the kangxin uses different buttons and or actuators but here's the digi key part number just in case and cheap too.
I'm starting to get a bit annoyed with my flask clone sxk 60. I am swapping the batteries out far to often than I'd like and not because they are running out either. For some reason its taken it upon its self to act kind of like a mech and as soon as the battery drops off just a little it starts to suffer with major voltage drop and reduced wattages, quite significantly reduced. As you see in my photos the battery has a mostly full charge, I'm trying to get 45w, hit fire and it won't provide it, not even close. Its almost like its stuck in TC mode cos the wattages are about the same its producing but reporting volts as secondary info rather than temp. Any ideas how I can make it give me my watts back? Using stainless steel 316l 24g . Batteries I'm using are 2 newish Samsung 25r (green) and 2 newish Samsung 30q
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Just like the Waidea flask the board gets it negative connection from the 510 grounding to the top plate. The top plate to case provides the next ground connection. Could be a bad connection between the top plate and case or the battery cap threads or the threads they screw into are "dirty"
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