mine went up a little using kanthal but most people are using ni200 and not kantha.l im going to check it again with my patriot atty thats got dual kanthal coils and see what it does
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I wish if someone here just takes us ME out of misery, and just tell me if their device, fluctuate WATTS from 0.4 all the way up, using KANTHAL, can`t seem to get a straight answer
Patriot voltage or resistance doesnt move more than from 1.02 to 1.03 stays very steady voltage didnt fluctuate at all. but i also tried a patriot clone that had a hot spot and it was all over the place both resistance and voltage so id say check your connections first
I really appreciate your help, how about wattage, did it went up or steady at whatever wattage you had it set to?
Hmm. The good folks at VF said they'll arrange for my exchange today. Sent a couple of remonders and bth heard out 
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Hey julpin. I finally got home and tried my kanthal build.
Turned off TP. Atty reads 1.25 ohms on ohm meter. Plonked on my vs rdna40 and it reads 1.24 ohms. Watt set at 19
Upon firing, watts reading starts off at 0.3 watts for less than a second, then 14 then stabilizes at 19 watts. All this happened within 1 to 1.5 seconds
During this time, resistance changed from 1.24 to 1.25, then 1.26 and stabilized throughout. When I stopped firing, resistance reading remained at 1.26.
Fired again, watts exhibited the same behavior. Resistance fell to 1.23, then up to 1.24 and then stabilized. Hope that helps
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Turned off TP. Atty reads 1.25 ohms on ohm meter. Plonked on my vs rdna40 and it reads 1.24 ohms. Watt set at 19
Upon firing, watts reading starts off at 0.3 watts for less than a second, then 14 then stabilizes at 19 watts. All this happened within 1 to 1.5 seconds
During this time, resistance changed from 1.24 to 1.25, then 1.26 and stabilized throughout. When I stopped firing, resistance reading remained at 1.26.
Fired again, watts exhibited the same behavior. Resistance fell to 1.23, then up to 1.24 and then stabilized. Hope that helps
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Hmm. The good folks at VF said they'll arrange for my exchange today. Sent a couple of remonders and bth heard out
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Noooo Kiwi, you should`ve send reminders, they don`t react well with remonders.
Thanks Kiwi that is exactly the info I was hoping to get, yes that is exactly what happens with mine too. Does this happen with your VaporShark too?
Mine starts with the resistance a little lower, build showing at 1.9 in ohm meter and starts from 1.71 and goes to 1.88 in a second or second and a half.
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Oh. That's with my VS. My flask doesn't even wanna recognize my kanthal builds hahahahahahahahaahha. It keeps telling me it's 0.34 ohms and 999F when I fire, but it works fine on all my other mods
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What if you turn off the TP?, your board is one of the craziest I`ve read about.
Haha I'll try it out later. At this point I hate it
So much I've bubble wrapped it up and stashed it away in one of my drawers.
Bad luck for days!
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Fluctuation in resistance, even for kanthal is not unexpected; these materials all have inherently changing resistance based on temperature. Even a pure copper tube. The dna chip is simply taking readings many times throughout firing.
As for voltage and wattage, I wouldn't consider it a fluctuation. Seems to me more like a "ramp up" to hit the desired setting, given that it increases rapidly and then stabilizes.
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sorry i left for awhile but watts stayed steady on kanthal besides the ramp up time but of course its starting at 0
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That is the term I was looking for, YES not fluctuation but ramp up, english is not my language so its hard for me sometimes to search the words in my head, like when you a while back wrote by mistake "send them remonders" I was literally like 2 minutes saying "what the hell is remonders" I even looked it up on google, then I thought oh yes reminders, just a typo. But back to topic, that ramp up from 0 was the thing that I thought was not normal, that is why I thought the board was defective but I think I , at least with kanthal, at the time have a functioning board. Will order some ni200 to try it out.
So maybe there is something to this... For the first time since it started happening, the screen did not glitch on me after sitting in my car all day while at work..
Edit... Well that didn't last long... Now it garbled even worse then before
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I thought screen garble was solved with a blob of silicone.
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
Well after opening the case again I noticed the positive pin was still touching the ground wire... I'm pretty sure something bad is going on because a little of the ground insulator was melted onto the positive wire... So now I've moved it way far away... It was a tight fit but I'm gonna see if that helps
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