Vapor Flask

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HolmanGT

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Anyone else notice the 510 pin wearing down? I keep seeing shavings in the bottom of the 510 and now have a nipple in the very center where the screws can't hit. I only use the veritas and squape r and both are authentic and no burrs that I can see or feel on them. Not sure if maybe I just got a soft pin or not but I have never seen this happen before on other mods.

YES, I noticed it the first day.

I immediately took a fine stone and 500 grit sandpaper to all my attys that have a SS center pin to remove all the sharp edges. Some of the SS center pins have some amazing sharp edges on them.

I also think that the brass or whatever VF uses in the 510 connector is far too soft. However if you make sure you knock off all the atty center post sharp edges you should be good for a long time and not get any shavings in the connector base.

If it ain't one thing it is another.

PS - with that nipple in the center of your VF side pin I'll bet you have an atty with a SS straight slot screw center pin. Oh - I just noticed you checked for burrs, I would still take some 400-500 grit wet or dry sandpaper to all the edges. I know you shouldn't need to but the only other option it sending it back to VF something I am not ready to do YET.
 

HolmanGT

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I only used a fine file but I will try doing the sandpaper also. Yes, both devices I have nickel in are what looks to be stainless 510. Nothing like taking a file and sandpaper to a $170 squape and $120 veritas to save a $2 pin that should not be so soft. Guess it is making a solid connection though lol

Waterdog - please don't think I am defending the VF pin. I am not. I was upset over it too as I said from day one. I didn't know that you were using the such first class attys. The first atty I put on mine was a Squape but mine was a clone and beside sharp edges on the center pin it has a lot of other shortcomings. If mine was the "Real McCoy" I don't know what I would do but I sure would call VF or whomever you got it from and see what they are willing to do to help you out. I don't think I would take tools to a $170 dollar atty to make it safe to use on a $300 dollar MOD.

As far as the VF goes I had buyers remorse on the day I bought it do to price. Then my disappointment in how well or not so well the DNA40 works, then the wobbly USB port on the VF, the soft center pin and the fact that you have to hand select between "High Quality" batteries to get them to fit in the VF.... ad infinitum I can definitely feel your dissatisfaction.

As a matter of fact my Squape with Kanthal works better on my $70 dollar "Seven 30" mod that doesn't have any problem with ANY 26650 bat I through at it the center pin still looks like the day I bought it and I don't have to build Ni200 coils that are so dam# big they won't fit in most of my attys.

Oops, this was supposed to be out your situation - but I do thank you for the opportunity to vent
 

HolmanGT

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I'll defend the "soft" center pin in the Flask, and criticize the hard, shark edged center pin in the atomizer, no matter who makes it, or how much it cost.

although, most of the time the sharp edges on center posts are caused by screw drivers kicking up a burr around the slot/phillips.

I sure won't disagree with you "BNEAT" but I am a little fond of my attys that have copper/brass center pins. And yes I check the SS pins every time I have to take one out. Case in point on my KayFun 3.1 to access the fill port you first have to remove the center pin screw so it gets a lot of chances to develop a sharp edge.

I'll say one thing kind about the soft center pin in the VF I never have to worry about it getting oxidized over. It is always bright and shinny. ;)
 

Waterdog

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Waterdog - please don't think I am defending the VF pin. I am not. I was upset over it too as I said from day one. I didn't know that you were using the such first class attys. The first atty I put on mine was a Squape but mine was a clone and beside sharp edges on the center pin it has a lot of other shortcomings. If mine was the "Real McCoy" I don't know what I would do but I sure would call VF or whomever you got it from and see what they are willing to do to help you out. I don't think I would take tools to a $170 dollar atty to make it safe to use on a $300 dollar MOD.

As far as the VF goes I had buyers remorse on the day I bought it do to price. Then my disappointment in how well or not so well the DNA40 works, then the wobbly USB port on the VF, the soft center pin and the fact that you have to hand select between "High Quality" batteries to get them to fit in the VF.... ad infinitum I can definitely feel your dissatisfaction.

As a matter of fact my Squape with Kanthal works better on my $70 dollar "Seven 30" mod that doesn't have any problem with ANY 26650 bat I through at it the center pin still looks like the day I bought it and I don't have to build Ni200 coils that are so dam# big they won't fit in most of my attys.

Oops, this was supposed to be out your situation - but I do thank you for the opportunity to vent

No the exact opposite. I appreciate you saying you had the same problem as me and sorry if it sounded like I was making it sound like you were defending them. That is the problem with forums is you can't always tell the tone of a post. Thank you very much for the sandpaper idea. I was just saying that one should not have to do that but at the end of the day it has a warranty for 6 months and another year gets added on from amex so not a big deal.
 

Waterdog

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I'll defend the "soft" center pin in the Flask, and criticize the hard, shark edged center pin in the atomizer, no matter who makes it, or how much it cost.

although, most of the time the sharp edges on center posts are caused by screw drivers kicking up a burr around the slot/phillips.

Has not happened on my other mods with the same atty's and no screwdriver has ever even touched the 510 pins. Both are less then a week old.
 

BNEAT

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Has not happened on my other mods with the same atty's and no screwdriver has ever even touched the 510 pins. Both are less then a week old.

They obviously still have sharp edges on them that are cutting into the soft brass. But my point is, hard metal isn't the best material for this application. Even my cheap Fogger has a copper center pin. It's actually a fantastic design...well, as far as 510s go. (have I mentioned how much I HATE 510 connections?!!...talk about a design which time has past)
 
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HolmanGT

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No the exact opposite. I appreciate you saying you had the same problem as me and sorry if it sounded like I was making it sound like you were defending them. That is the problem with forums is you can't always tell the tone of a post. Thank you very much for the sandpaper idea. I was just saying that one should not have to do that but at the end of the day it has a warranty for 6 months and another year gets added on from amex so not a big deal.

Yup - sometimes it is hard to pick up on the tone of a post BUT a lot of it is that I tend to grab what I think is the main idea and go with it. Not always a good result from that sort of speed reading. :facepalm:

PS - Thanks, I didn't know about the AMX extension. Think I will start using it a lot more.
 

ultrabadger

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Vapor Flask arrived today. After two failed attempts at building my Vulcan with dual coils I managed to get a good working 0.10 ohm build. Vaping at 22 watts with TP set at 400F. Best vape I've ever had. My Castle Long Reserve tastes better than it ever has. I also vaped my cotton wicks nearly dry and it continued to keep working like a champ with no visible charring and no burned taste. So far I couldn't be happier with the performance.

I do have a question for other VF owners. I did notice that the wattage down button is protruding farther than the up button and farther than I think it's supposed to. I was under the impression that the surface of both buttons are supposed to sit flush with the surface of the mod. Additionally, the alignment of the USB charge port is a little wonky and doesn't feel terribly solidly mounted. Should I contact VF and try to get them to remedy these issues? I mean I paid $300 for a top shelf product and I feel like I shouldn't have to "live" with little nits like this. I also have a VaporShark DNA40 coming tomorrow so I would be able to live without the flask until it comes back, so sending it away wouldn't be the end of the world.
 

Dr33m

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Does anyone have a link to the video showing the bateries that fit? I cannot seem to find it. I am ultimately wondering if the MXJO IMR 18650 2500MAH fit.

Nevermind. I think they should fit...
Sony vtc5
-Diameter 18.45mm max +/- 0.05mm
MXJO IMR
-Dimensions : 65*18.24MM (+/-0.05)mm

Anyine interested they are here - MXJO IMR 18650 2500MAH 35A High Drain Flat Top Battery - PAIR - 101 Vape $17.99 for a pair.:)

LG HE2 is your best bet if you get a rewrap sony it will not fit samsung 25R is hit and miss some fit some don't fit as well it is the ring around the top that causes the issue with samsung 25R batteries, I rather use the LG and I got a pair of VTC 5 from back in the spring i held onto, but waiting for newest batteries since they will be fresh never used. mxjo fit but no idea how long they last if anyone knows mxjo is solid or not please let me know
 

Waterdog

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They obviously still have sharp edges on them that are cutting into the soft brass. But my point is, hard metal isn't the best material for this application. Even my cheap Fogger has a copper center pin. It's actually a fantastic design...well, as far as 510s go. (have I mentioned how much I HATE 510 connections?!!...talk about a design which time has past)
Well could not see them but I am sure you are right. I also have a fogger 5 but not sure I am ready to make a dual coil nickel build yet. Hard enough to not cut the wire in through post atty's in single coil. I wish they all came with brass center pins. Hopefully the next big change is to find something better then 510 for connecting atty's
 

Waterdog

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Vapor Flask arrived today. After two failed attempts at building my Vulcan with dual coils I managed to get a good working 0.10 ohm build. Vaping at 22 watts with TP set at 400F. Best vape I've ever had. My Castle Long Reserve tastes better than it ever has. I also vaped my cotton wicks nearly dry and it continued to keep working like a champ with no visible charring and no burned taste. So far I couldn't be happier with the performance.

I do have a question for other VF owners. I did notice that the wattage down button is protruding farther than the up button and farther than I think it's supposed to. I was under the impression that the surface of both buttons are supposed to sit flush with the surface of the mod. Additionally, the alignment of the USB charge port is a little wonky and doesn't feel terribly solidly mounted. Should I contact VF and try to get them to remedy these issues? I mean I paid $300 for a top shelf product and I feel like I shouldn't have to "live" with little nits like this. I also have a VaporShark DNA40 coming tomorrow so I would be able to live without the flask until it comes back, so sending it away wouldn't be the end of the world.

Like already said the USB port is loose but is designed that way. I have heard some say that one button sticks out further but mine are both the same. Maybe someone who gets one from the new batch can say for sure how they are doing them now. The flask does have a few small things I would change but I still love it and is my favorite mod.
 

TheKiwi

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So.... Received my replacement from VF today. And guess what? My buddies came to town to visit me and bought me an identical flask. So now I have two. Good news is both had proper charging port holes, and both buttons are sticking out the same.


Burping out loud using Tapatalk
 

puffon

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    So.... Received my replacement from VF today. And guess what? My buddies came to town to visit me and bought me an identical flask. So now I have two. Good news is both had proper charging port holes, and both buttons are sticking out the same.


    Burping out loud using Tapatalk

    I wish I had buddies like that!
     
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