Vapor Flask

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julpin

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Completely agree with Kiwi. I am not from the United States and honestly in the past, I`ve purchased lots of things (not vaping related) that had the "Made in the USA" stamp, because I knew that it would be as close as perfect as possible. For me when a product is made in the USA it has an added plus in my view because in my experience USA products has given me nothing but enjoyment, you get the satisfaction that even when you paid a little more than other product is was well worth it. BUT, honestly this stamp DOES NOT apply in vaping hardware IMHO, I have a Hana that when new came with crooked 510 connector, blurs all over the finish, etc. Vapor Flask the same, love it but is not what I expected. Love USA, and love USA products but NOT vaping stuff. I own an egrip that honestly is amazing, weights a lot, the finish is PERFECT, the design wonderful and..... its made in China.
 

Pocha

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Kiwi,
Thanks for posting your experience. I'm undecided about what I want to do about the VF I have now. I did notice that the battery port threads were a little grindy and as I've already posted I have the non-level buttons and the wobbly USB port. Overall I love the design and the quality is pretty good. That being said, for a $300 device I was expecting a little closer to Apple level attention to detail and industrial design.

I do have a question for the group. I've built three different ni200 coil builds for my VF thus far. Each time, after getting it set up, checking the resistance on the device wicking and vaping for a while, the resistance drops. Last night I built a 0.12 ohm dual coil build and it was working great. This morning I pick it up to vape and the it's reading 0.09 ohms so naturally I'm bouncing off the TP limit like crazy and it's not really working that great. I roll up my sleeves and build what reads as a 0.14 ohm dual coil this morning and again, it works great for a little bit, then as soon as I set it down and let it cool down, the resistance drops again, down to 0.09 ohm. Is there something wrong with my mod or with my build. For reference, the last build was 2x 16 wraps of 30AWG with about a 3mm ID. On steam-engine, that's about a 0.18 ohm build. I'm building on my Vulcan. Thoughts?

This exact thing has happened to me. My .14 coil now reads .08 and is working sucky.
 

Waterdog

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Kiwi,
Thanks for posting your experience. I'm undecided about what I want to do about the VF I have now. I did notice that the battery port threads were a little grindy and as I've already posted I have the non-level buttons and the wobbly USB port. Overall I love the design and the quality is pretty good. That being said, for a $300 device I was expecting a little closer to Apple level attention to detail and industrial design.

I do have a question for the group. I've built three different ni200 coil builds for my VF thus far. Each time, after getting it set up, checking the resistance on the device wicking and vaping for a while, the resistance drops. Last night I built a 0.12 ohm dual coil build and it was working great. This morning I pick it up to vape and the it's reading 0.09 ohms so naturally I'm bouncing off the TP limit like crazy and it's not really working that great. I roll up my sleeves and build what reads as a 0.14 ohm dual coil this morning and again, it works great for a little bit, then as soon as I set it down and let it cool down, the resistance drops again, down to 0.09 ohm. Is there something wrong with my mod or with my build. For reference, the last build was 2x 16 wraps of 30AWG with about a 3mm ID. On steam-engine, that's about a 0.18 ohm build. I'm building on my Vulcan. Thoughts?

I know I mentioned this in another thread with you but I would try a single coil atty with screws not through post connections. I use a veritas and a squape r. Mine does move a bit but only .01 +-. I tried to build on my magma and with 30awg and either cut the legs off or made a poor connection. Also before I cut them off i wiggle the ends to see if there is any coil movement which would say the through post screws are too loose. I have also heard that screws can back out a bit when the wire shrinks and expands so after you vape for a bit check to see that it is still making solid contact.
 
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Waterdog

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I had a lot of trouble getting them out prior to sanding them (suggested by someone else) and was very concerned that if the bats swelled up just a tad in would be a trip back to the factory to get them out. It is just amazing how a few thousandth of in inch can make such a marvelous improvement.

Glad that worked out for you.
 

Bassnorma

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I still like the fact that my bottom button protrudes a bit more....helps me find them better in the dark....like bassnorma Braille....Lol, I'm not a cat, so night vision? Not so much....

However, as it is apparently a qc point, the perfectionist in me twinges a bit.

I just bought a mod that cost me 100 less when shipping and such is factored in....at the risk of a Provape bashing....the p3 has no quality issues. Different mods used under different circumstances, granted. I love them both for different reasons.

But there is a reason why Provape has a reputation for quality. It's because they are obsessive about little things like that.

In fairness to vf, they were cranking up production trying to fill our demand. So maybe that is the reason for these things.

As to my less than perfect buttons, I like them that way.


(sent from an alien device which translates English into Klingon without my approval)
 

ultrabadger

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I know I mentioned this in another thread with you but I would try a single coil atty with screws not through post connections. I use a veritas and a squape r. Mine does move a bit but only .01 +-. I tried to build on my magma and with 30awg and either cut the legs off or made a poor connection. Also before I cut them off i wiggle the ends to see if there is any coil movement which would say the through post screws are too loose. I have also heard that screws can back out a bit when the wire shrinks and expands so after you vape for a bit check to see that it is still making solid contact.

I will be trying a single coil, but as an aside, I've noticed that the screws for the Vulcan are pretty awesome for nickel. I haven't clipped a lead yet, despite having attached 10 30 gauge coils on it so far (5 builds, 2 I screwed up right at the end) and thats even with cranking the screws down pretty darned tight, torqueing it down ever so slightly with pliers once I've gotten it finger tight. One thought I just had is that maybe I'm screwing it down too tight? is there such a thing?
 

Waterdog

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I will be trying a single coil, but as an aside, I've noticed that the screws for the Vulcan are pretty awesome for nickel. I haven't clipped a lead yet, despite having attached 10 30 gauge coils on it so far (5 builds, 2 I screwed up right at the end) and thats even with cranking the screws down pretty darned tight, torqueing it down ever so slightly with pliers once I've gotten it finger tight. One thought I just had is that maybe I'm screwing it down too tight? is there such a thing?

Well a screw down install will tell you that. Say you are half severing them off by over tightening them down(which you can do). That would make for a lead that is no longer 30g wire at the point of contact. Or were you saying you went to a post top install 2 of the times with the wire on top of the post and under the thumb screw?
 
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ultrabadger

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Well a screw down install will tell you that. Say you are half severing them off by over tightening them down(which you can do). That would make for a lead that is no longer 30g wire at the point of contact. Or were you saying you went to a post top install 2 of the times with the wire on top of the post and under the thumb screw?

All my builds have been through-post. I've never clipped a wire, and everything is solidly mounted. I can tug on the coils pretty hard, likely hard enough to snap the wire. I'm just trying to think about it objectively. If I clip a wire or a wire is loose then my resistance should go UP not down as the current would only be going through one of the two coils or would be getting crappy contact with the coils. In either case the resistance would go up. If I were to crush the terminal end of the wire under the screw, it might make the resistance go down. However, one or two mm of squished wire in the post/under the screw also shouldn't really have any impact on the total build resistance since it's not really part of the current path from the positive terminal to negative. I'm just baffled as to how it can change resistance, just sitting there.
 

KY_Rob

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I've been on the fence about a VF for some time now. After reading most of this thread, my mind is made up. There is no way I'm spending $300 on something that's "close". VF wants my business, they're going to have to make a great product (not a close one), and I'll need to see a bunch of people singing praises for a while.

A dual 18650 regulated mod has been something I've wanted for going on a year, and I just can't seem to find one that:
A) Is available
B) Is built well
C) Did I mention availability? :D

Thanks to everyone for the info here. Much appreciated :)
 

Coldpunk

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How many quality issues have been reported? Have you read the threads for other DNA40 devices? The rDNA feels clunky and large in the hand compared to the flask, and vaporshark has many more negative experiences mentioned in the rDNA thread as there are here and has sent out rDNA30s with batteries that were unsafe. Hana is still repeating the QC issues they had from the dna30s. The only other two that are reasonably easy to get a hold of are the BAP and XPV and both were too ugly for me to even consider.

If I were buying a third dna40, it'd be another flask.

Edited to add: they are available, you just have to go down the list of brick and mortars that are carrying them and call to place an order. I got mine from central Iowa e cigs.
 
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TheKiwi

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I'm at the rDNA thread too and I don't actually see issues with the rdna40. (We are talking about issues with the mod, not customer service). All rdna40 have been installed with a LG HE2. Batterygate has long passed.

Gotta be fair in evaluations.

(That said, I own a rdna40 and love it. I just hate the idea of the chrome plated brass 510)


Burping out loud using Tapatalk
 

HolmanGT

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Sorry man, I did post somewhere in this thread that the HE2s were giving me issues.

That's OK I really just wanted to make you feel bad. I think I got the tip the He2s worked well someplace in one of these DNA40 threads and some video that showed a guy dropping in ever brand under the sun and the only ones that didn't fit were the Efest.

Oh well, someone else posted that they sanded the out side plastic coating and they slide in like butter. Well he did, I did and he (whomever that was) was right. it is a really slick solution and doesn't take but about five or ten minutes to accomplish. I used sandpaper but the guy that posted about it used those green Scotch-Bright pads.

Just don't test fit them until you wipe them down with a damp cloth you don't want to add that dust into your VF. Oh and make sure you blow the dust off the battery ends I used a small paint brush to dust the ends.

Just a little sanding and they fit so well you won't believe it. Drop them in and tilt and they slide right out. I could make some off color remarks here but I won't. I just settle for "you won't have to bang the VF in the palm of your hand to get the things out and you won't have to live in fear of them swelling a tad and never coming out.
 

KY_Rob

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How many quality issues have been reported? Have you read the threads for other DNA40 devices? The rDNA feels clunky and large in the hand compared to the flask, and vaporshark has many more negative experiences mentioned in the rDNA thread as there are here and has sent out rDNA30s with batteries that were unsafe. Hana is still repeating the QC issues they had from the dna30s. The only other two that are reasonably easy to get a hold of are the BAP and XPV and both were too ugly for me to even consider.

If I were buying a third dna40, it'd be another flask.

Edited to add: they are available, you just have to go down the list of brick and mortars that are carrying them and call to place an order. I got mine from central Iowa e cigs.

Actually, it wouldn't matter to me at this point if the device was DNA30 or DNA40. Seems to me that the DNA40 has some bugs that need addressed, and I'm perfectly happy at 20w...so I'm willing to wait.

As far as the rDNA goes, so far I'm really impressed with mine. Relative to the Hana and the Atlas, it's small, and more comfortable imo. It's build quite well also. As far as the Hana, it's fine as far as finish. The 510 is ever-so-slightly out of square...have to really look closely to even notice. The Atlas is also very well built, and functions as designed, but it's just uncomfortable because of the sharp-ish edges to me. From a purely QC standpoint, all 3 meet my value expectations. None of the 3 cost $300.

I would expect every feature of any $300 mod to be as perfect as possible, without obvious flaws, ala ProVape's business model. Of course, there will be examples of product slipping through the cracks. There is with virtually everything. However, wide spread known flaws causes me as a consumer to take heed.

I absolutely love the concept of the Vapor Flask. I think the design intent is nothing short of brilliant! However, based on the numerous QC issues I've read here and other places, I'm going to wait until those QC issues are solidly addressed, or find another device that meets my value expectations.
 

Cearamm

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Hey guys and gals, i just Wanted to post my experience with my new DNA40 Vaporflask v2.1.

I saw that vapinart would be restocking monday the 17th of nov. Great, my bday was the 16th so i wanted either provari 3 or a flask. Selfie bday present and all. So i emailed them asking if they would reserve me one, just in case they sold out too fast. They did this gladly. Welp monday the 17th rolls along and i completely missed the 11am sale time due to work. Checked around noon and of course all units were sold. Noooooo!!!!

So i called em up and inquired about my reserved flask and lo and behold...they actually had mine set aside! No way, thats amazing customer service. I ordered and paid over the fone and added a set of Efest purple 35A batts (which fit btw). She even wished me happy birthday which was cool.

So i ordered monday and had the unit shipped and in my hands by wednesday. Fast shipping! Sweet. I accidentally popped on a dripper that had a Titanium grade 2 coil on it. To my surprise it worked in temperature mode! Sweetness! The coefficient of Ti is different than Ni200 so you need to adjust accordingly, but it does work.

So the vape experience is so much better with the DNA40. I can take as long or short of a pull and will not char my juice or wick. If i take an extended drag on a normal build, the end of that draw will be very hot and almost scorching. With temp limiting, that problem has disappeared. I can literally vape my cotton bone dry with no issue whatsoever. Absolutely amazing in my eyes. I have had zero dry hits from my cotton build in my Origen Genesis. For me normally, id usually get a scorching hot hit once or twice a day on a normal setup. Now i can chain vape and each hit is long cool and smooth.

If i want a warmer vape i can restrict airflow or bump my temp setting up to 450-470. Its absolutely amazing how many different ways you can vape this thing now that we can control both wattage and temperature limits.

I can get 2 completely different vape experiences using the same atty and setup based on how i set my wattage and temp. Normally im switching atties multiple times a day for a different style of vape. Now i can get those diverse vape experiences with a simple adjustment. It has totally revolutionized vaping for me.

As far as the Flask itself....my unit was delivered in flawless condition. I actually love how the USB is floating. Personally i think it will add many months of extra usage because solid connections can fail due to mis use. This floating charge port will eliminate stress on it and add longevity, at least thats my theory.

IMO i hate box mods. Theyr too huge and clunky and so not elegant. Also they are terribly uncomfortable when you prefer rounded edges like tube mods have. I love my vaporshark dna30 but only because its small size allows it to fit perfect in the hand. Something like the Hana on the other hand is wholly unappealing to me.

I do like how the ZNA bridged the gap between a tube and a box, and i feel the Flask is very much in that same vein. Its perfect 22mm radii fit amazingly well in the hand, left or right. Even with the contour facing away from the palm it is still wayyyy more comfy than any box mod ive used. It is just such a well thought out mod. I love how i can see the screen so easily while taking a drag. I love how i can adjust my temperature and access the buttons without needing to use both hands. They way they are located is just so intuitive and it definitely make a difference. The usb is placed perfectly.

I love how the screen is protected and not fully exposed, as it is on the VaporShark. Itd be pretty difficult to damage the screen on the Flask but relatively easy on the VaporShark. I like it being recessed so deeply.

Anyhow, thats been my experience thus far in the 2 days I've had it. I hope that i have a glitch free board because so far Evolv has really blown me away with this offering. After a little practice and trial and error (need to remember to calibrate using a cold coil), things are chirping away beautifully. I honestly feel that ive only just scratched the surface of what the device is capable of.

Did i mention battery life? 5000mah is a loooooooot of time. Great engineering move by Vapor Flask. Just a remarkably intuitive design all around

This device to me is worth the $300 price tag. It reminds me alot of a MacBook pro or an ipad with its super clean unibody design and smooth edges. It feels like the Rolex or Ferrari of vaping. Most other DNA mods except for the WAEII just dont carry that same level of elegance o me as the Flask. Plus it has that neat super high tech looking blue OLED screen :)

Anyhow ill get off my fanboy box now. I just wanted to share my thoughts to anyone who is on the fence about getting one. If you can find it in stock....snatch it up because i bet you wont be disappointed.

Would i buy this again? Hellz yea
 

ultrabadger

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Okay, for those following along at home, and since I posted my questions/issues here as well as in the Nickel coil thread, I did manage to solve my resistance problem. Ultimately it came down to moving away from contact coils. The instant I teased the wraps apart on my dual coil build, the resistance jumped back up to about where it's supposed to be. I guess ni200 is really sensitive to coil shorts.

I'm still a little miffed about the non-flush down button and the semi-wonky charge port (nothing anywhere near what Kiwi had going on) but I'm undecided what to do about it or if VF would even warranty service it to address those issues.
 

Waterdog

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I would say if it is going to bother you then you should reach out to them about it. You do have a 6 month warranty so maybe you hold off for a bit but let them know at some point you will be sending it in. That way if anything else comes up you don't have to send it two times. Other option is tape it off and file, sand, buff it to the normal size.
 
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