VaporShark rDNA
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Doesn't the one you got from Vapor Kings have the zip charging? Looking at the picture of the box, it says it has it. I was told it has everything except the bigger screen. I'll know Wednesday, mine will be here then.
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I got mine from VS on Friday. It has the reverse polarity buzzer and the box says it has zip charging, but also smaller screen, in case people wanted to know.
Edit: It also has Celsius, like I'd use that. Thanks to the USA's myopic educational standards, I remain blissfully ignorant in the practical application of the rest of the world's measurement framework.
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The Nickel Trials Continue
The KFL+ and KF4 have had off and on performance. I notice that my builds show .01 to .02 lower in the mornings when the device sits. As I use it for the first 10 minutes of my daily vaping, it usually goes back up to its "normal" resting resistance.
The KF4 has 2 additional deck screws, appears bigger than my KFL+, and feels easier to do the building with, so I decided to redo it first. The build I had in it was reading .26ohms (9 wraps around 3.2 ID, 30g Ni200). After 3 tanks of juice (predominantly sweeter, thicker flavors) the wick looked nasty. I played with the temperature settings quite a bit and I noticed slight burns on the cotton (probably due to me oscillating between 390F and 450F. Most of my vaping is around 15watts.
New build: 8 wraps around 6-32 screw (which comes out to an ID of around 3mm, I think) reading in at .21ohms. Instead of doing my 360degree wrapping of the legs around the screws, I just made a pass around the screw heads like I do with my Kanthal builds.
I definitely think this thing is reading higher slightly higher Ohms over actual, so I am compensating by keeping temp a little lower (@400F instead of 410). I'm also using less sweet juices to see how the coil does after that. I will say that even with all of the gunk, the coil didn't seem to read differently (thanks I think to the spaced coil method).
I'm sad to say but I think I may be twisting 30g soon. I have a Lemo on order too as Kiwi won't stop saying how great they are for Ni200 builds.
Random thoughts:
- KFL+ nickel build is a contact coil and it struggles to keep giving me 15watts. Airflow is probably the issue there. No burned tastes though, no dry hits.
- KF4 seems better made for Nickel builds running 15-20 watts (more airflow, build deck is easier to work with). 8 wraps seems to me the magic number for easiest fit in the build deck. Even though I had some burned cotton, never once tasted anything but good flavor. No dry hits.
- Wrapping with the screw and turning the screw to do the work produces better coils for me than wrapping the coil into the grooves. I think wrapping more than you need is ideal here. I wrap 2-3 xtra, tighten the leads, back out a few, and tighten the leads again.
The KFL+ and KF4 have had off and on performance. I notice that my builds show .01 to .02 lower in the mornings when the device sits. As I use it for the first 10 minutes of my daily vaping, it usually goes back up to its "normal" resting resistance.
The KF4 has 2 additional deck screws, appears bigger than my KFL+, and feels easier to do the building with, so I decided to redo it first. The build I had in it was reading .26ohms (9 wraps around 3.2 ID, 30g Ni200). After 3 tanks of juice (predominantly sweeter, thicker flavors) the wick looked nasty. I played with the temperature settings quite a bit and I noticed slight burns on the cotton (probably due to me oscillating between 390F and 450F. Most of my vaping is around 15watts.
New build: 8 wraps around 6-32 screw (which comes out to an ID of around 3mm, I think) reading in at .21ohms. Instead of doing my 360degree wrapping of the legs around the screws, I just made a pass around the screw heads like I do with my Kanthal builds.
I definitely think this thing is reading higher slightly higher Ohms over actual, so I am compensating by keeping temp a little lower (@400F instead of 410). I'm also using less sweet juices to see how the coil does after that. I will say that even with all of the gunk, the coil didn't seem to read differently (thanks I think to the spaced coil method).
I'm sad to say but I think I may be twisting 30g soon. I have a Lemo on order too as Kiwi won't stop saying how great they are for Ni200 builds.
Random thoughts:
- KFL+ nickel build is a contact coil and it struggles to keep giving me 15watts. Airflow is probably the issue there. No burned tastes though, no dry hits.
- KF4 seems better made for Nickel builds running 15-20 watts (more airflow, build deck is easier to work with). 8 wraps seems to me the magic number for easiest fit in the build deck. Even though I had some burned cotton, never once tasted anything but good flavor. No dry hits.
- Wrapping with the screw and turning the screw to do the work produces better coils for me than wrapping the coil into the grooves. I think wrapping more than you need is ideal here. I wrap 2-3 xtra, tighten the leads, back out a few, and tighten the leads again.
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If mine from Vapor King doesn't have all the features stated I will be requesting a return. I also already sent an email to EVOLV to see if they would upgrade the screen on the small screen v2. Will let you know their response. Never dealt with their CS but I hear they have been pretty accommodating when it comes to the new board issues. I would think they would want up-to-date conformity among the products with their DNA 40 board in it. A bunch of different DNA 40s running around doesn't come off as professional. Hopefully they feel the same 
From what I've read, VS will send you a return label even if you're overseas so no cost shipping for you. Turnaround is pretty quick too. At this point in time, I don't think you'll have a problem with the glitchy screen (the only issue with the DNA 40).
I remember in elementary, they taught both standard and metric systems so I'm comfortable with both.
I'm curious why you think the DNA is reading slightly higher ohms. I get your meaning but reading is not what the DNA does, it is measuring (V,I)and calculating the resistance (R) with Ohm's law R=V/I. It is near impossible the DNA is wrong about the resistance. Remember the DNA is presented with the entire circuit not just the coil.
Temperature limiting is not dependent on the starting or at rest resistance, it is the rise in resistance that feeds the temperature calculation and thus the limiting. If a large percentage of the resistance is I'll say static, resistance from a poor 510 or some other non Ni200 source like the wire clamp at some point the DNA will not work correctly because the resistance rise will not be sufficient. What I'm seeing is that a couple 100ths 0.0x make no difference when the total resistance is 0.20 or less. I have no experience above that but if the base resistance is 2 ohms and only 0.15 of that is coil I expect the DNA will not run in Ni/TM mode.
Good luck!
From what I've read, VS will send you a return label even if you're overseas so no cost shipping for you. Turnaround is pretty quick too. At this point in time, I don't think you'll have a problem with the glitchy screen (the only issue with the DNA 40).
I remember in elementary, they taught both standard and metric systems so I'm comfortable with both.
oooh. that is good to know. I mean I could of gotten the VS back in belgium but it would of been alot more expensive so yeah.
wonder if the board in it already has the celcius setting option haha.
was looking at the vapor flask and hana too but the vapor flask eh don't know how it would feel and the stories of missaligned screens and USB was scary.
hana has the dual battery option but urgh if they still can't be bothered with fricking magnets instead of screws well bluh. this is almost 2015. plus those buttons are so pointy.
Woofer - I think something with the K4 is providing that static you talked about. I think it's a great device nonetheless but I have heard a lot of people reporting false readings from their K4. I'm lucky in that mine does not appear to be off by too much. Using the steam engine coil builder maths, I think it's a bit high by about .2 to .4 ohms. I'll admit, I'm not super exact with my inputs and I don't use the advanced mode so I could be wrong, but an 8 wrap in my KFL+ reads .17.
So what you're saying is that the "static" is still ACTUAL resistance, even though in theory there should be less. So unless the resistance is jumping, performance should still be reliable. Hm.. hadn't thought of that. I just thought the static was a -false reading- but if it's stable it does stand to reason that it is the resistance it actually measures.
LOL. Resistance for my KF4 build just dropped from .21 to .20. Seems closer to my original calc but this probably has to do with the "settling" and "movement" of the coils during firing.
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One thing that I do hope that is that they will start selling nickle atlantis coils like they did with the nautilus ones. Loving the atlantis but DNA40 versions of those coils would just be killer.
This thread has been lacking pics!
I just got my Hana mini clone today and took a pic of this line up:
Is the 3rd off the left the solara dna?
So I've noticed a few new things with the rdna over the past few days. I'm currently using twisted 30 gauge for my nickel build on my kayfun. 9/8 wraps around 6-32 screw and I get a reading on the vs of .12 ohms. I've noticed here recently that sometimes when I wake it up, either in the morning or if I haven't been vaping in a while, that the ohms will drop to .11. I'm not sure why this is. I've checked my connections and everything is perfect. And this isn't causing a problem....just a new quirk I've noticed.
I've also noticed some bouncy readings on my odin dripper build as well. Used the same coil as in the kayfun but I will get an initial reading of .14. Last night it "refined" to .13. Then before I headed to bed I checked it again and it had dropped to .12. Wicking could be a factor on this though. My wick isn't as tight as what is running in my kayfun. Who knows. Either way it is still performing excellent. The dripper straight kicks the clouds.
Anyways, just some things I've been observing while using the device the past few days.
I've also noticed some bouncy readings on my odin dripper build as well. Used the same coil as in the kayfun but I will get an initial reading of .14. Last night it "refined" to .13. Then before I headed to bed I checked it again and it had dropped to .12. Wicking could be a factor on this though. My wick isn't as tight as what is running in my kayfun. Who knows. Either way it is still performing excellent. The dripper straight kicks the clouds.
Anyways, just some things I've been observing while using the device the past few days.
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Every Ni coil I have had fluctuated +/- .01. My .12 coils will tend to refine up to .13, then refine back down to .12 consistently. I will tolerate up to a +.02 change, knowing it will likely come back down (which it always does) after sitting for a few minutes, this is less common though. Anything more that .02 and something is probably going on, but I haven't been seeing anything bigger than that in my last few builds.
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