VaporShark rDNA

[alicewonderland]

i finally built a 0.13 nickel coil that works and vapes well, not near perfect but it vapes. The thing I find confusing is that it flashes 'temperature' protected a bunch, im set at 0.13ohm at 330F, it still fires when it says temp protected, but im guessing thats because it just keeps firing as long as I keep the button on and just doesnt fire and the coil actually stays around 330F?

 

[puffon]

i finally built a 0.13 nickel coil that works and vapes well, not near perfect but it vapes. The thing I find confusing is that it flashes 'temperature' protected a bunch, im set at 0.13ohm at 330F, it still fires when it says temp protected, but im guessing thats because it just keeps firing as long as I keep the button on and just doesnt fire and the coil actually stays around 330F?

Turn it up to 410-450

 

[UKPaul]

Wow! You did have temp control on... and if so what temperature and what watts were you running at?

Yeh, double checked it was on, 430 deg & 25 watts.

 

[UKPaul]

I took my atti off and let it rest for 30 minutes and rewicked.

Rewicked and juiced and its now showing 0.17 ohms and vaping realy nice.

 

[Silver5656]

I refuse to do dry burns on nickel wire or even kanthal anymore for health/safety reasons. I am, at this point, only doing space coils around a 3mm screwdriver. To date, it has worked out well. Incredible vapor and taste with my juices. I have checked my coils after running several tanks in my lemo drop and all of the coils at this point have turned black; I credit this to the heavy vg/net's juices I am using.

You said that if the nickel coil gets red hot, with tc off, your build is wrong. Please explain. I am relatively new at building my own coils, so your expertise in this area would be appreciated.

I said if the coil gets red hot at 600, not with tc off. At 600, the coil should NOT get red hot. I also do not try burn my ni200 coils (in the sense of getting them red hot). I do a "warm burn" just to check that there are no hot spots on the coil

 

[Silver5656]

IF there are hotspots with the TC ON, part of the coil (or the entire thing if the screws aren't on tight) will turn red. This signals to me that the coil is a dud and time to rebuild.

 

[zinc]

IF there are hotspots with the TC ON, part of the coil (or the entire thing if the screws aren't on tight) will turn red. This signals to me that the coil is a dud and time to rebuild.

or you have a kayfun 4

 

[Brettanomyces]

I guess my question probably got lost at the end of my wall of text. My rDNA isn't asking me if it's a new atty when I change it, could that be why I'm having problems with nickel builds(burnt wick and excessive throttling)? Is there anything I can do to force it?

I know I've seen this mentioned but I couldn't find it with a search. I might upload some pics I took of some of the builds to see if anyone can see a potential issue.

 

[Silver5656]

it doesn't always ask if theres a new coil. However, if it NEVER asks if its a new coil, that might be a problem. What I would do, is get to atty's, built to different ohms (as different as possible, ie .04 ohms and .14 ohms) and rotate between the 2 several times. If it never asks if its a new coil after 10 or so swaps then something might be wrong. In my experience, it doesnt has if its a new coil about 50% of the time

 

[Brettanomyces]

I've been switching between my kfl with a 1.67 ohm kanthal build and my magma with nickel builds(all in the same range). The first few hours it was asking every time I switched but it hasn't asked me once since then.

Edit: Just put on my nautilus and it asked if it was a new coil, put on my kfl and it asked again, threw on the magma and it didn't ask.

 

[MegaVap]

Hi guys, my rdna 40 finally arrived. I did a coil build using 8-32 screw, 8wraps or 9 wraps..lol, kinda lost count and recounting makes my eyes hurt. Came out 0.4 which sucks :/
I don't even build my lemo correctly and now with this nickel coil!? OH MAN!
The device keeps asking if it's new coil once a while, and the ohm meter kinda jumps around...

any suggestion?

.4 is too high for that amount of wraps. Check all connection points.Especially the connection inside the base. I have to tighten mine pretty good.

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

I said if the coil gets red hot at 600, not with tc off. At 600, the coil should NOT get red hot. I also do not try burn my ni200 coils (in the sense of getting them red hot). I do a "warm burn" just to check that there are no hot spots on the coil

got ya. thank you.

 

[TonyB66]

I have the rDNA40 and find that compared to my ohms meter is consistently reads lower ohms than my meter, doesn't matter if it's kanthal or Ni200 it always reads lower. I am getting a decent vape but I'm wondering if my Vaporshark or it's chip has an issue.

Anyone experienced this?

 

[jazzvaper]

Back at post # 5898 I mentioned that I would building Ni200 on a Kayfun 4:

It went perfectly, 9 wraps on a 3mm screwdriver, KGD, reading 0.18 on my ohm reader and 0.16 on the rDNA 40. VS 40 had been sitting at room temperature for at least an hour.

Wanted to note something I did differently, something away from my/our standard building method. Normally once I/we install the cotton (siica/rayon) I/we do a test fire. This time I consciously avoiding doing that.

Put the K4 on the VS and it vaped beautifully. (Had a sample bottle from most recent order, so nothing could be lost.) I do not expect any problems with this device, and Ni 200....Yes we will have to observe the effect of the spring, so will report if anything changes...

 

[BowTieGuy]

Has anyone had problems with their boards on the rDNA shorting out? I managed to get some nickel builds running nice in it, but I've been getting some problems with mine now. I initially thought that I was getting shorts from my nickel builds, but after removing everything from the 510 connection, I'm still getting a reading of a resistance on the device, which shouldn't happen without something on top. It will fluctuate from 0.02 ohms up to 0.16 ohms with nothing screwed into the 510 connection. I don't know if there's an issue with with any of the internal wiring or an issue with the 510 connection. Might just have to file a claim with VS and see if they have an idea or if I'm going to have to send it in. I've just waited so damn long for this bad boy, don't want to send it right back...

 

[TheKiwi]

^just send it back in. Tooooo many people have been in your shoes and choose to hold on to it cos they can't bear to let go of their devices, only to realize that they should've from the start.

A big part of the amount your paying, is that warranty. Use it


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[BowTieGuy]

^just send it back in. Tooooo many people have been in your shoes and choose to hold on to it cos they can't bear to let go of their devices, only to realize that they should've from the start.

A big part of the amount your paying, is that warranty. Use it

Thanks for the advice! I, too, was very leery to send the device in after waiting so long to receive it, but if they can get it working, just as well take advantage of that warranty. I just sent VS an email to their support describing the problem. Hopefully I will hear back from them some time tomorrow. Maybe it's just something I'm doing that they can provide a quick fix for. If not, worst comes to worst I can just send it in. I'll just have to go back to my mechs for a bit while waiting for it. I already waited a month in a half for it, I guess I could stand another week or two...

 

[caged]

Yes, mine will get very warm. If you are using Ni200, let it cool along with the addy, before attaching, otherwise the ohm reading may be off.
I've also noticed it will take longer to charge wireless.

Thanks. Is it an issue if you charge with the atty on?

 

[jackrussel]

One thing I realized today that ohms law is still in effect for Ni200 builds. So jumped to steam engine and checked out some numbers.

To utilize full 40W the minimum resistance needed would be 0.156 ohms, so any builds below this limit will not be able to use 40W. Ex. For 0.1 ohm build, the max wattage is 25.7W (no wonder I was getting good battery life even with 40W use on 0.13 ohm builds). I think Evolv wanted users to not worry about display and use device with protection by chip, but at some point the user forgot that display doesn't necessarily mean actual value as internal protections are in place that bypass our ignorance.

I am not an expert but if I did a mistake in my understanding please correct me.

0.156 would be the minimum for kanthal/nichrome etc. Nickel resistance changes with temperature. So as soon as you fire a nickel coil, the resistance will rise. The DNA40 also has a peak current limit of 23 Amps. These 2 factors are what allow nickel builds under 0.156.

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf

 

[massbass22]

Quick question guys, do you send the device back with a battery when your having warranty service done?