VaporShark rDNA

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TheKiwi

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Just as easy as any kayfun. I'm using the stock spring (Tobeco version) and with 28g, 3mm ID, 12 wraps @ .17Ω, it's vaping just as good at the kanthal build on the silver v4. I was so impressed with the Tobeco version, which I just got about 3 hrs ago, I ordered a silver version from eBay since it was on sale for $19.95 shipped.

Does this come with spare o rings and such?


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TheKiwi

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Set up today!

0e8ea444ed9424d1a8e01138675cdd5f.jpg


Good times, good times. Running my Aqua v2 on kanthal tho; deck is way too tiny to accomodate my nickel builds.

Side note, the aquav2 is a flavor or cloud monster. Love that thing.


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maleasdf

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Oct 23, 2014
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0.156 would be the minimum for kanthal/nichrome etc. Nickel resistance changes with temperature. So as soon as you fire a nickel coil, the resistance will rise. The DNA40 also has a peak current limit of 23 Amps. These 2 factors are what allow nickel builds under 0.156.

http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna40.pdf

Thanks for the note... Completely forgot about the temperature coefficient bumping up the resistance. Back to desk to do some more calculations and experiments..
 

Elyptic

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Just as easy as any Kayfun. I'm using the stock spring (Tobeco version) and with 28g, 3mm ID, 12 wraps @ .17Ω, it's vaping just as good at the kanthal build on the silver v4. I was so impressed with the Tobeco version, which I just got about 3 hrs ago, I ordered a silver version from eBay since it was on sale for $19.95 shipped.

My KFL+'s never leak and are dead reliable. I had the KF v4 from FT for a little over a week and it had some issues but nothing I couldn't fix myself (unlike the Erl clone). After a few days of sorting it out, it vaped kanthal great. So much so, I was using it on my DNA30 and hardly touched my rDNA40. Tobeco seems to be the best clone version so I ordered a black one. It finally came in today and it just worked straight out of the box with no issues at all. It was perfect. Everything unscrewed w/o tools or cutting me. Threads are perfect, no crunchy threads anywhere. No wobbles. Perfect.

I share KTMRider's experiences with the ErlK and KF v4. The ErlK is a "b i t c h" to wick right and is very finicky about the vacuum in the chimney. It'll either leak or give you dry hits often. The ErlK nano is a bit easier and gives a better vape but is still not as easy as the KF v4. Another atty I am absolutely loving these days is the Aqua v2. It's simplicity and vape quality are unbelievable. I have to cut back on my vaping because I get nic buzzes with the Aqua v2 with dual coils!

And now, thanks to everyone here, I have a black Tobeco Kayfun V4 on it's way... Given the shipping speed of FT, it may just beat my ErlK Mini Clone to my doorstep.

I really shouldn't look through these forums. They end up costing me money -- especially since I'll probably get an authentic of whichever one I like better...:facepalm:
 

zipflint

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I'm pretty much settled on the Lemo Drop+VS rDNA40 combo. I have yet to try another nickel build, but I will, eventually. Here's a shot of what's keeping me occupied today. And I'll second (third? fourth?) the reccos on a Kayfun V4. I've got two clones (one from FT and one from angelcigs, don't know the manufacturer of either) and they are solid. Lots of spare parts, everything machined really well. I will say that I DO keep forgetting about where the juice control needs to be set when filling. That's just user error though. :oops:

mods for Friday 0001 by zipflint, on Flickr
 

peraspera

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you should consider getting some grade 1 or grade 2 titanium wire (try amazon) - then you could safely do dry burns to check your coils - titanium is the future (titanium is in many foods and not harmful)
...

Such statements should not be considered accurate absent peer-reviewed studies using methodology that reasonably replicates how platinum is used in vaping. Rossum posted on his blog that dry burning the platinum wire he used produced "prodigious amounts of titanium dioxide, which does not stay stuck to the coil."

It would be a good idea to see if one sees similar results to Rossum's before investing much time and money in platinum wire thinking one can dry burn it without producing powdery oxides.

Also, some people have reported titanium wire catching on fire when torching it.

I'm starting to feel that way about my authentic Lemo. Just so fussy! I want something to fill and go which is why I was drawn to the Erl. But if it leaks (something my Lemo doesn't do) then it's gonna be a no go for me.

My goto for my rDNA40 since I received it on Nov. 7 has been the GG Tilemahos. I've never had it leak nor cause a single connection glitch with temperature protection.

I use the split wicking technique from the Bishopheals Tilemahos video but use a bit less wicking in the juice channel itself. The build is super easy and you can adjust both the air and juice flow on-the-fly.

The Tilemahos produces excellent flavor as well as very generous amounts of vapor but this is not a tank for people who want massive amounts of air flow.
 

NOVA jon

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I'm pretty much settled on the Lemo Drop+VS rDNA40 combo. I have yet to try another nickel build, but I will, eventually. Here's a shot of what's keeping me occupied today. And I'll second (third? fourth?) the reccos on a Kayfun V4. I've got two clones (one from FT and one from angelcigs, don't know the manufacturer of either) and they are solid. Lots of spare parts, everything machined really well. I will say that I DO keep forgetting about where the juice control needs to be set when filling. That's just user error though. :oops:

mods for Friday 0001 by zipflint, on Flickr

Is that some dabbledoya I see??!!
 

dimo

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My cyber Monday rdna finally arrived!

Can anyone with more than one dna40 device comment on ohm readings? The rdna that just came in reads .02 higher than my Hana Modz dna40 mini. The Hana has the old firmware before Celsius was added. The rdna has the newer with the bigger screen.

So far because of the higher readings I noticed that temps read lower on the vapor shark compared to the Hana. Not sure which is more accurate.

Coil is a 8 or 9 wrap (don't remember) 28 ni200 build around a 3/32 drill bit. Hana reads base temp at .10 and rdna at .12. This is with letting atty sit 15 min before switching it.
 

ScandaLeX

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Just as easy as any Kayfun. I'm using the stock spring (Tobeco version) and with 28g, 3mm ID, 12 wraps @ .17Ω, it's vaping just as good at the kanthal build on the silver v4. I was so impressed with the Tobeco version, which I just got about 3 hrs ago, I ordered a silver version from eBay since it was on sale for $19.95 shipped.

How does it vape in comparison to the Lemo?
 

zipflint

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Yes indeedy! LOVE the stuff. I loved it so much when I tried it at my B&M that I HAD to have a bottle, even though all they
had was 12mg and I only vape 6mg. Just means I can't chain-vape it. But holy cow it's SO GOOD.

That, and Sunday Fundae. And Moon Sugar. I intend to try the whole line eventually!

Is that some dabbledoya I see??!!
 

NOVA jon

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Yes indeedy! LOVE the stuff. I loved it so much when I tried it at my B&M that I HAD to have a bottle, even though all they
had was 12mg and I only vape 6mg. Just means I can't chain-vape it. But holy cow it's SO GOOD.

That, and Sunday Fundae. And Moon Sugar. I intend to try the whole line eventually!

I hear ya, I think I'm going to have to start investing in multiple 30 ml bottles at a time. That was my first ADV and I still keep at least a couple bottles on hand!!

You should try kustom "for why are". That's my new fav!!
 
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Brettanomyces

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I threatened to post pics if I couldn't figure out what's going on and I'm still scratching my head on why I'm getting little vapor production due to TP AND burnt wicks so here they are. All coils were wrapped around a 6/32 screw and wicked with organic japanese cotton pads(not KGD though).

IMG_20150114_192552_901.jpg
This was my second build using twisted 30g, the spacing wasn't quite as good as my first one.

IMG_20150114_213112_873.jpg
This was my first 28g build, I found it easier to get proper spacing and to visually check it with 28g.

IMG_20150114_222733_695.jpg
This was my second 28g build before and after wicking, I think I had a little too much cotton this time.

Edit not sure how I managed to mangle the post like that, ignore the repost of the first pic and the bare coil is the second 28g one before wicking.
 

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Brettanomyces

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I also wanted to post a pic of some the wicking after getting burnt but I hit my 5 attachment limit early because of the mess up.

View attachment 404594

The top one was with TP set at 410f and the bottom one had it set at 400f, they were used very little. The top one had too little and the bottom one had too much but all of my wicks have looked about the same, optimal wicking has only improved vapor production a small amount. As you can see they're burning fairly evenly from the middle out with the burnt area covering 50-75% of the coil depending on how long I used it.

I tested the last coil for hot spots by firing it bare with TP on(400f/600f) and couldn't see any glows at all even in the dark. I did notice that with TP set at 400f it was actually hitting about 450f according to the screen.

I might try a nickel build on my KFL just to rule out some odd problem with the magma.
 

NOVA jon

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I tried the post hole connections with my Lemo and nickel builds and found it to be an inconsistaent vape as well as readings that jumped around way too much for my liking.

Have you tried any other attys with nickel builds? Wrapping around the connections screws instead of using the post hole connections?
 
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