I've tried TSCs in the full sized Nautilus too and it's okay. I much prefer the same coils in the Silo Tank though. Better flavour, airflow and larger capacity.
VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I've tried TSCs in the full sized Nautilus too and it's okay. I much prefer the same coils in the Silo Tank though. Better flavour, airflow and larger capacity.
I mean, that's the way they shipped it right? With the battery installed?
Alright so I'm having a weird problem with the dna-40 chip. Recently just rebuilt my Hobo and on my ohm meter it reads 0.14 ohms (this is after letting it sit for ~10 min or so), and when I screw it onto my VS it also reads 0.14 ohms. It starts to vape great. I get a nice warm vape and the dna-40 seems to be working fine; however, after I let my VS sit for a little and go back to vape, the VS reads my coil at 0.11 ohms and I get a lot less power than I am supposed to. I've tried resetting the dna-40 by saying it's a new coil and it reads it correctly at 0.14 ohms, but again after letting it sit the VS reads it at 0.11 ohms again.
Any ideas? I'd rather not have to reset the VS everytime I want to vape.
Any ideas? I'd rather not have to reset the VS everytime I want to vape.
After the initial reading, the DNA40 goes into refinement which is why you're seeing .11Ω. Leave it and adjust your wattage to suit your vaping style. There's nothing wrong with your mod.
Huh ok didn't know that thanks. Guess I'll just have to increase the wattage then.
Haha I don't know. I haven't found another atty that performs as flawlessly and as consistently as a lemo. The k4 is alright. Works fine 90% of the time, but once in a while I get back connection
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Hopefully you can help me diagnose what the heck I'm doing wrong with mine then.
After some frustrating attempts I finally got a coil (30awg twisted ni200, 3mm ID, 8 wraps) installed on just the base. rDNA read it at .41ohms. I adjusted the 510 and no change. I adjusted the center pin and it dropped to .17! Still a little high based on what I was expecting but nothing to really worry about. Wicked and primed with some juice, everything checked out ok. Ohms stable, voltage relatively stable. I reassembled the rest of the RTA including assy and chimney, filled it up, added the silicone plug ring.....and resistance had jumped to .23 ohms. Figured maybe it was heat and let it set, ended up sitting over night. This morning I checked it again and got the "Check Atomizer" error. I rechecked the 510 and center pins again, no adjustments made any difference. Frustrated, I disassembled it (in the process losing 5mL of a really good juice) to double check to make sure that the coil wasn't touching the chimney wall and it looked ok. I reassembled just the base and plopped it back on the rDNA and still got a "Check Atmoizer" error. Physical inspection revealed no loose connections, broken, wires, or other issues.
I do not understand how I can go from reading .41 to .17 to .23 to *nothing*. This is just stupid. I don't know what the hell I'm doing wrong but I was so frustrated this morning I damn near threw the whole atty in the trash and ordered something else.
In the process of reassembling everything this morning I also tried removing the silicone plug and using the fill screw thinking that the silicone was preventing the center pin from connecting securely - no change.
Yikes.
Ok so based on what I've been doing with dual 30 twisted, 0.17 seems like a far more reasonable resistance than 0.41
Can you..
1) use the atty stock with no oring modifications.
2) leave build on deck, and screw onto mod. Does it fire?
3) if yes, screw on chimney barrel section. Does it fire?
If you get check atomizer on 2) and 3), add a 1mm x 2mm oring in the adjustable 510 pin, screw it back snug and retry
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Ok so based on what I've been doing with dual 30 twisted, 0.17 seems like a far more reasonable resistance than 0.41
Can you..
1) use the atty stock with no oring modifications.
2) leave build on deck, and screw onto mod. Does it fire?
3) if yes, screw on chimney barrel section. Does it fire?
If you get check atomizer on 2) and 3), add a 1mm x 2mm oring in the adjustable 510 pin, screw it back snug and retry
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Which cherry drip tip was on your lemo? You posted it awhile ago, but I forgot.
Edit: Disregard. Just saw your post on the lemo thread lol
Last edited:
So, it turns out in all my frustration this morning I never bothered to disassemble the coil I'd built last night. I tightened everything up, stuck the deck on my rDNA.... and it fired at .14 ohms.
I screwed on the barrel and it also fired at .14.
Screwed on the rest of the chimney and it didn't fire. Playing with it some more it seems that I'd managed to ever so slightly back off the deck from the 510 base. Screwed that back down and it fired at .15 (i'm guessing that was due to heat build up as this was all inside of 2 minutes).
I continued to check resistance as I assembled the tank into working order. Everything seems to work fine now and TP mode seems to be working.
Lesson: even if you think you've checked all your connections, check them again anyway.
Haha that's why I say 99% of issues and concerns with the chip is due to user error.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Ordering the lemo drop tomorrow,we'll in a few hours. thanks kiwi, what do you prefer using when it comes to the gauge ni200 and have you found an ideal ohm that works best? I've been using single 28g at 0.15ohm and using the split wicking method to get plenty of cotton in without destroying the coil In an rda at the moment.
My current go to is 2 strands twisted 30ga. It's been working well for me. I've been working exclusively with 3 strands twisted 32ga though. I'm still on the search for a way to make strong robust wires. The triple 32 is a little more robust, but it's also more springy such that it's a little challenging to get a nice tightly wound coil.
If you're not interested in twisted wires at all, and like me you're too cheap to pay for the tempered ni200 wire, def go with 28ga.
Then use a 7/64 or 3mm bit. I always try to aim for 0.16 (purely arbitrary), but tbh I think anything above 0.12 (also kinda sorta arbitrary) is a good place to be at.
Here's a lemo build
Simple 28ga
All using 7/64 bits
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Got the black drop on the way,I'll have to try some twisted 30 and 32 after I use up some this 28 I have. have you found a performance increase with twisted coils? thanks for the input and pics. I always save your pics for refrence. Pretty cool for someone I've never met to give so much input and I'm sure I speak for most of us when I say thanks for your help and time.
Thank you very much. I have both the Nautilus and the SUB tank, so I figured I will try the stock coils first, before I try to build. I strugle enough to build with kanthal. I am very new to that
I have to wait for 10 days lead time on Vapor Shark though
My current go to is 2 strands twisted 30ga. It's been working well for me. I've been working exclusively with 3 strands twisted 32ga though. I'm still on the search for a way to make strong robust wires. The triple 32 is a little more robust, but it's also more springy such that it's a little challenging to get a nice tightly wound coil.
If you're not interested in twisted wires at all, and like me you're too cheap to pay for the tempered ni200 wire, def go with 28ga.
Then use a 7/64 or 3mm bit. I always try to aim for 0.16 (purely arbitrary), but tbh I think anything above 0.12 (also kinda sorta arbitrary) is a good place to be at.
Here's a lemo build
Simple 28ga
All using 7/64 bits
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Your build look so nice Kiwi. Could you send me a few? Ha ha just k. Really appriciate your inputs here. Wery useful knowledge Thank you.
18650.
J/k
Samsung 25r or LG HE2 are 2 very popular batteries. The rDNA40 comes with the LG HE2 (2500mah, 35a).
- Status
