Imo the lemo is a superb first atty for ni200
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VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
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Center pin problems (_IF_ you get them) can be solved by adding one of the o-rings from the screwdriver you got with the lemo under the center pin screw. As for leaking, It can sometimes happen if you lay it on it's side for a longer period, but I haven't experienced it with normal usage and i keep it standing vertically when I'm not up and about. But in the car etc it's always laying sideways in the passengers seat, and it hasn't leaked to/from work.
Also another thing that I was curious about.. I have a 28g nickel build on my lemo and at rest it comes out to .17. For some reason randomly throughout the day it will say that it hits around 1200F and it will not fire above 1W. I have to take the atty off and let it sit then re-register it as a new atty. It works fine though and I really love the rdna40, I just didn't know if this happened to anyone else.
Good evening (european time) Vapor Shark owners. I am about to order a rDNA 40 direct from Vapor Shark. Do you know about any cuopon code I can use to save a few bucks?
Thank you in advance.
Have a nice vaping day everyboody
Thank you in advance.
Have a nice vaping day everyboody
Haha yea it's weird. It only does it like every other day. I am going to rebuild the Lemo when I get home from work and see if that will take care of it.
Thanks KTM. Do you build yours with twisted 30g or single spaced 28g?
Have you or anyone tryed a Nautilus mini with temperature sencing coils? Are those working ok for a start? I am a little unexperienced at building coils, so I figured I nedd some more practise with kanthal first.
If you experience a "spike" in tenperature and you're hitting TP prematurely, it simply means either there's a wonky connection, or the base reading is off. Specifically in this case, the base reading it has is lower than what it actually is.
Maybe my process might make things a little easier.
1) go to steam engine, and figure out your build. E.g I always aim for 0.16 ohms, and make as many wraps as I need
2) check the resistance on a ohm meter or a mod. I use both my ohm meter and my sigelei 100. I won't care much if it's like plus minus 0.02ish.
3) make sure atty and mod are cool
4) plug into rDNA, and then take base resistance. Should work fine if it is close to what you've gotten previously
ETA: some folks PM-ed about why that happens. No clue. But there are some scenarios...
1) you were running a lower resistance atty. You plug on a higher resistance atty. The mod doesn't realize it's a new atty, and clings on to the base resistance
2) somewhere along your usage, a connection issue arises. Could be the leads getting chopped off mid-use. Could be the screws backing out. Could be the 510 getting screwed in. The poorer connection results in a higher "actual" resistance, but your chip still clings on to the old base resistance
These are what I can think of for now.
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Maybe my process might make things a little easier.
1) go to steam engine, and figure out your build. E.g I always aim for 0.16 ohms, and make as many wraps as I need
2) check the resistance on a ohm meter or a mod. I use both my ohm meter and my sigelei 100. I won't care much if it's like plus minus 0.02ish.
3) make sure atty and mod are cool
4) plug into rDNA, and then take base resistance. Should work fine if it is close to what you've gotten previously
ETA: some folks PM-ed about why that happens. No clue. But there are some scenarios...
1) you were running a lower resistance atty. You plug on a higher resistance atty. The mod doesn't realize it's a new atty, and clings on to the base resistance
2) somewhere along your usage, a connection issue arises. Could be the leads getting chopped off mid-use. Could be the screws backing out. Could be the 510 getting screwed in. The poorer connection results in a higher "actual" resistance, but your chip still clings on to the old base resistance
These are what I can think of for now.
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Does anyone know that has gone through their warranty process if im supposed to send back the red LG battery as well? Their offices seem to be closed so i cant get a solid answer.
And typically what is the turnaround for warranty?
And typically what is the turnaround for warranty?
I have a full size Nautilus but have not tried the TSC coils yet. I'm starting to get some very consistent nickel builds that have been very satisfying so I don't think I will be trying them any time soon!!
Send it all back, battery included. I packaged my back up in the case and put it in a bubble pack envelope from the post office and sent it back that way. Turn around time for me was about 7 business days.
did you send it back with the battery installed into the rdna40? I feel like its bad for the battery to be always on while shipping?
The Nautilus Ni200 coils are working just fine for me. However, unless you already own a Nautilus I wouldn't purchase one. The taste and vapor production from the newer clearos such as the Atlantis and Kanger Subtanks is better and they should have Ni200 heads available for them shortly.
So I'm not the only one with the defective LG battery? Mine cause my device to get extremely hot im probably lucky it didn't destroy my vaporshark.
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