VaporShark rDNA

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ScandaLeX

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Its an evolv issue not a vaporshark issue. Evolv is handling it honorably and replacing everything no questions asked. I bought 4. One had an issue and it was replaced within a week. And the issue appears to only happen in temp mode. In the end side By side with the p3 at the same settings with the same top. The vape is identical. But. The dna40 has twice the power, 3 times the amp limit and fires to 0.15. Couldnt say no, over and over again. The bad board was frustrating but all i lost was one mod for 5 4 days.

Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii T0ny!!! I dropped out of the pre-order for reasons I won't rehash again here. Now, like a typical female, I'm ready to buy again. You know me, I more than likely will get one- just not sure when.
 

KTMRider

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Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii T0ny!!! I dropped out of the pre-order for reasons I won't rehash again here. Now, like a typical female, I'm ready to buy again. You know me, I more than likely will get one- just not sure when.

Most people are getting their's within a week of ordering now. VS has a shop in Barnegat which is probably closer to you than it is to me. They have them in stock (got a call this afternoon).
 

Fir3b1rd

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Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii T0ny!!! I dropped out of the pre-order for reasons I won't rehash again here. Now, like a typical female, I'm ready to buy again. You know me, I more than likely will get one- just not sure when.
Hey scandel!
Like i said; Maybe i got lucky, out of 4 the one was screwy and the replacement has been seemless. I spoke to hyperian, protovapor and Vaporshark and all three co. Told me the same thing. - some production issue at evolv with the ribbon than connects the oled to the chip. They said it was restricted to the first run only and those are supposed to be cycled through. So they are expecting the future products to nor have that issue. You know me; i wouldn't believe that poppycock without proof; only it came from all three companies so i dunno.
 

puffon

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  • Sep 18, 2014
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    Got my VS on Tue.
    Ordered on the 12th (I don't think this was a first run board)
    Everything was working great, till today.
    Now it won't stay in TP mode.
    Keeps jumping back and forth.:facepalm:
    I've read about this problem, somewhere.
    Will try another build.
    Looks like this one will be going back on Mon.
    You would think if manufactures knew bad boards went out, they would do a recall?
     

    SeniorBoy

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    Hey scandel!
    Like i said; Maybe i got lucky, out of 4 the one was screwy and the replacement has been seemless. I spoke to hyperian, protovapor and Vaporshark and all three co. Told me the same thing. - some production issue at evolv with the ribbon than connects the oled to the chip. They said it was restricted to the first run only and those are supposed to be cycled through. So they are expecting the future products to nor have that issue. You know me; i wouldn't believe that poppycock without proof; only it came from all three companies so i dunno.

    It's healthy to be skeptical :)

    Actually it was a defective "PCB" which caused the glitch screen issues but lower level employees may not know this. What you want to ask and require is a Rev 3 board. Specifically! This rev3 fixes the wonky/glitch screen and is the latest and greatest. No need to believe an older guy like me. /lol Ask Evolv directly. You can even tell them the Senior dude sent you. /joking

    HTH

    :)
     
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    drmarble

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    I need some help with a decision... As some of you know, I burned up my rdna30 by idiotically inserting the battery the wrong way. So that shell of a '30 is just sitting on my desk.

    Going to be doing some sailing lessons fairly regularly in the coming months to get captain certification. I'm thinking of what my 'boat mod' is going to be. will probably be running a nautilus mini as a topper.

    Choices:
    eleaf istick @ $40 Pros: inexpensive to replace if damaged or goes swimming, small/lightweight form factor. Cons: not a dna device, could be on the flimsy side.

    Repair the rDNA30 @ $80 Pros: it's a DNA device, good for a back up when not on the boat, more rugged than the istick. Cons: More expensive to replace, no guarantee I won't reverse the battery again (because of the idiot brain in my head)

    Upgrade the rDNA30 to the '40 @ $90 same pros and cons as the repair except +$10 and it's now a '40 with no wireless charging.

    Upgrade to the '40 chip. It has reverse battery protection and thus is safe from you tender ministrations while installing batteries. It Should give a much better vape than an istick. You don't have to use the temperature protection/nickle wire. $ is a great deal for an rDNA40 even without wireless charging.
     

    KGie

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    Mar 13, 2014
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    It's healthy to be skeptical :)

    Actually it was a defective "PCB" which caused the glitch screen issues but lower level employees may not know this. What you want to ask and require is a Rev 3 board. Specifically! This rev3 fixes the wonky/glitch screen and is the latest and greatest. No need to believe an older guy like me. /lol Ask Evolv directly. You can even tell them the Senior dude sent you. /joking

    HTH

    :)

    Is the Rev. # printed on the board? If not, what does one look for when looking at the board to know if it's a Rev 3? Have there been any similar problems reported with the Rev. 3 boards, or are they purported to be glitch-free, as far as anyone is currently aware?
     

    KGie

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    Were you on that VS store's waiting list? They called me today too, I was on their list, hopefully they still have it tomorrow when I head down there because its 1.5 hours from me.

    Can you call before you leave, tell them you have a two-hour trip to get there, and can they hold one for you for just two hours? I think most places would likely do that in the name of good customer service.
     

    dougward1960

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    Got my VS on Tue.
    Ordered on the 12th (I don't think this was a first run board)
    Everything was working great, till today.
    Now it won't stay in TP mode.
    Keeps jumping back and forth.:facepalm:
    I've read about this problem, somewhere.
    Will try another build.
    Looks like this one will be going back on Mon.
    You would think if manufactures knew bad boards went out, they would do a recall?

    generally jumping in and out of tp to voltage mode is a connection issue and not a bad board but maybe yours is different
     

    Heespharm

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    Lo fi way to charge your rdna while it's standing

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1416640216.480681.jpg

    Hair tie tied around the wire then put over the mod and charging base


    Works pretty well!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    Metzger

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    Question for those of you still building with kanthal in your rDNA40 - does the resistance still make minor fluctuations? I switched my Russian 2.0 build from nickel to kanthal and I noticed that it seems to jump around slightly between 1.30 and 1.36 ohms; is this a sign that the coil is shorting somewhere, or is that normal? I haven't used a DNA device before, figured that it wouldn't fire if there was a short.
     

    puffon

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  • Sep 18, 2014
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    generally jumping in and out of tp to voltage mode is a connection issue and not a bad board but maybe yours is different

    No this one is a bad board.
    The only way I can get it to "stay" in TP mode, is put the watts up to 40.
    Then when I fire it, the temp shows it going into an endless loop 0 thru 180 degrees
    If you keep firing it it never gives TP warning, just fries the wick and juice.
    It was working great for awhile.
    Will call VS this am.
     

    dougward1960

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    No this one is a bad board.
    The only way I can get it to "stay" in TP mode, is put the watts up to 40.
    Then when I fire it, the temp shows it going into an endless loop 0 thru 180 degrees
    If you keep firing it it never gives TP warning, just fries the wick and juice.
    It was working great for awhile.
    Will call VS this am.

    your probably right but id try new coil in it first
     

    Heespharm

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    No this one is a bad board.
    The only way I can get it to "stay" in TP mode, is put the watts up to 40.
    Then when I fire it, the temp shows it going into an endless loop 0 thru 180 degrees
    If you keep firing it it never gives TP warning, just fries the wick and juice.
    It was working great for awhile.
    Will call VS this am.

    I've seen that before and I made a new coil and checked my positive post and it solved the issue... Also really tighten the atty onto the mod tight


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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