VaporShark rDNA

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Woofer

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I can pretty much rule out it's not my builds being faulty or loose connections, I've been building Kayfun's for over a year now and I've pretty much got it down. My Kayfun's make connecting with the pin just fine, they sit nice and flush and pick up a reading before I even screw it down completely. I've rebuilt both my Kayfun's three different times now each and I get consistently inconsistent results with my DNA40 lol. I have a feeling what RandyF says about the coils changing shape or whatever because they are so soft after constant heating cooling, and reheating over and over again. This is having an impact on the ohm's lowering as both my Kayfun's have acted identically now with three different builds on them each.

Just a side note I will say that using microcoils have never been my thing although I can build them just fine. I find after I take apart my atty there is always black burned junk on my coils, almost like burned cotton sticking to the coils, even on this DNA40. I have noticed in the past that I would lead to a bad slightly burny taste after a short time using microcoils in Kayfun's on mech's, as opposed to using spaced coils. I've always kinda preferred spaced standard coils to microcoils. I may try twisted 28awg or 30awg spaced coils and see if I can get a better result and maybe a sturdier coil perhaps.

If this is a response to my last post -- I`m not suggesting there is a problem with your build or anyone`s build. I begin to suspect the problem may be something in the way the Kayfun and clones are designed and manufactured. I don`t yet have any solid idea what might be happening much less how one might fix it or any definite proof this suspicion is even correct. :unsure: Nor am I in any way dissing the Kayfun design, variations of 100ths of an ohm have not mattered much until now.

What I can say with certainty is same builder, same build, same power, different atty, different result.
What is consistent is that the DNA 40 and Magma perform 100% perfect 100% of the time. The DNA 40 and the Russian do not thought it is close.

The only thing that has changed is the atty so naturally I look there for an issue.
 

Sgt. Pepper

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I suspect that this issue with resistance changing and or the DNA falling in and out of Ni mode is not exactly a board issue, the resistance is actually changing. When I first started with the DNA 40 and UCT-Kebo Russians 91 I was seeing this. I tightened everything up on the Russians and consistence improved greatly. Still not 100% but close.

On the other hand my Magma is and always has been 100% rock solid. Resistance and performance is 100% perfect and never varies.

Wish I had more attys to play with all I have for RBA`s is Russians 91% a Magma and a new yet to be used Origen V2.

I don't know if this helps, but I found this video interesting.
 

RandyF

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If this is a response to my last post -- I`m not suggesting there is a problem with your build or anyone`s build. I begin to suspect the problem may be something in the way the Kayfun and clones are designed and manufactured. I don`t yet have any solid idea what might be happening much less how one might fix it or any definite proof this suspicion is even correct. :unsure: Nor am I in any way dissing the Kayfun design, variations of 100ths of an ohm have not mattered much until now.

What I can say with certainty is same builder, same build, same power, different atty, different result.
What is consistent is that the DNA 40 and Magma perform 100% perfect 100% of the time. The DNA 40 and the Russian do not thought it is close.

The only thing that has changed is the atty so naturally I look there for an issue.

I would say the main issue with Kayfuns is the airflow. Many of the first builds I did were on them and I just couldn't find a happy place. I recently invested in a couple Lemo's and those same builds work MUCH better, namely the spaced builds. The biggest difference between the Kayfun and the Lemo is the airflow and larger juice channels, two of the main components in controlling the coil temp. With the Lemo's I rarely hit TP, and I chain vape. I also have less issues with nickel on my Magma, which supports, better airflow + better wicking = less problems. I could be totally off base, but this has been my experience.
 

buffalofloyd

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Sweeter juices tend to leave more gunk.

I think this is true.

I spent a ton of time and almost an entire 100ft spool of Ni200 trying to find the perfect Ni200 Kayfun build to suite my tastes... settled in on a 28AWG 7 wrap spaced coil on a 1/8" mandrel, comes out to .11ohm. Wicked with Koh-Gen-Do cotton. I slightly work harden the wire with a "Z-Pull" method - 10 pulls, any more and it gets too brittle for me, any less and it's too soft/pliable. (See How to Work Harden Wire - YouTube for an example of how to do it.) I then wrap it as tightly as possible using a jig and a lot of tension - one end of the wire is clamped to something, just as in the video when I wrap the coil on the jig. It starts out as a perfect contact coil, and I then gently pull the coil apart from both sides evenly, then compress it back together with my thumbnails in order to get it sized properly.

I mount it perpendicular to the deck screws. Lift it up to about 2-3mm directly above the air hole.

I then set TP to 450F, turn the watts up to 25 or so, and dry fire it. If you have any hot turns they will glow instantly and TP will immediately stop that glow. Fix those with a micro-flathead. Dry fire again, make sure there are no glowing wraps. When you dry fire with TP on, there should be absolutely no glowing. Once this is confirmed, wick, fill, vape away.

I typically run this config around 14-18watts and TP set to taste (based on juice). This has worked very well for me (FINALLY!) :D

I have been wrapping around a 1/8" microdriver. I am probably gonna try doing the spaced build like you suggest, thanks for the info.

If this is a response to my last post -- I`m not suggesting there is a problem with your build or anyone`s build. I begin to suspect the problem may be something in the way the Kayfun and clones are designed and manufactured. I don`t yet have any solid idea what might be happening much less how one might fix it or any definite proof this suspicion is even correct. :unsure: Nor am I in any way dissing the Kayfun design, variations of 100ths of an ohm have not mattered much until now.

What I can say with certainty is same builder, same build, same power, different atty, different result.
What is consistent is that the DNA 40 and Magma perform 100% perfect 100% of the time. The DNA 40 and the Russian do not thought it is close.

The only thing that has changed is the atty so naturally I look there for an issue.

Sorry, didn't mean to come across defensive. I only use Kayfun's so that's all I can really go by. It does seem once the device and atty cool down it wants to work more properly, for lack of a better term.

I don't know if this helps, but I found this video interesting.


I have watched this and Basil's video several times but your link might help someone looking for some info on the DNA40.
 

KGie

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I would say the main issue with Kayfuns is the airflow. Many of the first builds I did were on them and I just couldn't find a happy place. I recently invested in a couple Lemo's and those same builds work MUCH better, namely the spaced builds. The biggest difference between the Kayfun and the Lemo is the airflow and larger juice channels, two of the main components in controlling the coil temp. With the Lemo's I rarely hit TP, and I chain vape. I also have less issues with nickel on my Magma, which supports, better airflow + better wicking = less problems. I could be totally off base, but this has been my experience.

Build details? I've got a Lemo Drop on the way, should be here Friday, with any luck. (Although... not sure what my rush is, since i'm not even ordering the rDNA till Monday, let alone knowing when I'll receive it.)
 

jazzvaper

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Two (2) Kebo R91's, KFL+, two (2) 3.1 ES's all working well.

My belief: size of coil (3mm for me) and wicking (KGD, nicely tucked) seems to be my solution.

Running comfortably with heavy VG juices at 14-17.5 watts with TP at 430 F, but still experimenting...a bit on TP and watts.
 
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MidwestGuy

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I would say the main issue with Kayfuns is the airflow. Many of the first builds I did were on them and I just couldn't find a happy place. I recently invested in a couple Lemo's and those same builds work MUCH better, namely the spaced builds. The biggest difference between the Kayfun and the Lemo is the airflow and larger juice channels, two of the main components in controlling the coil temp. With the Lemo's I rarely hit TP, and I chain vape. I also have less issues with nickel on my Magma, which supports, better airflow + better wicking = less problems. I could be totally off base, but this has been my experience.

Total agreement. In regards to my last post on Kayfuns ... the Kayfuns are a much tighter draw, less vapor, but with good flavor. My Lemos seem to be perfect for Ni200 so far. I had to tighten up the airflow to get the flavor I was seeking, those things are airy! I run my Lemos between 18-22 watts and rarely hit TP, Kayfuns much lower and frequently hit TP but still vape well (just lighter volume). I still have kanthal in my magma and gaia, haven't made that leap yet. :)

There is a place in my vape schedule for both devices ... The Kayfuns are still typically my on-the-go atty, while the Lemos can almost be too much for me sometimes. Sure, I can do shorter draws, lower wattage, etc... but I always seem to forget that? Love my new Lemos.

IMO, both devices work well once you get a suitable build for the respective device.
 

MidwestGuy

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RandyF

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Build details? I've got a Lemo Drop on the way, should be here Friday, with any luck. (Although... not sure what my rush is, since i'm not even ordering the rDNA till Monday, let alone knowing when I'll receive it.)

30g 9wraps 2.4ID spaced. Comes out to .20.......ish, the board is hasn't quite decided yet, lol. I will say though, 30g spaced coils are a PITA. I'm going to miss the days of whipping up a nice coil in 10 minutes.
 

KTMRider

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Build details? I've got a Lemo Drop on the way, should be here Friday, with any luck. (Although... not sure what my rush is, since i'm not even ordering the rDNA till Monday, let alone knowing when I'll receive it.)

They shipped 3 days after I ordered. I got mine 9 days after ordering. 1 day late because of USPS.
 

buffalofloyd

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I'd really like to get pbusardo's opinion on this device and/or board. I'm curious to see what kind of experiences he's having. I have a feeling, and this is just a gut feeling, but I bet he's experiencing some of the same things many of us are and he's trying to understand it all and that's why a video has taken so long. There's no doubt he has a DNA40 but I'm sure he wants to put it through it's paces like the P3 before he puts his opinion out there. Anyway...
 

KGie

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They shipped 3 days after I ordered. I got mine 9 days after ordering. 1 day late because of USPS.

I'm going to be ordering mine during the Cyber Monday Sale rush -- I've got the feeling that could slow down shipping. OTOH, looking at the bright side, the Evolv board might be a later rev.
 

RandyF

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I'd really like to get pbusardo's opinion on this device and/or board. I'm curious to see what kind of experiences he's having. I have a feeling, and this is just a gut feeling, but I bet he's experiencing some of the same things many of us are and he's trying to understand it all and that's why a video has taken so long. There's no doubt he has a DNA40 but I'm sure he wants to put it through it's paces like the P3 before he puts his opinion out there. Anyway...

No doubt he has been on the phone with Brandon. The fact that he was probably one of the first to get one and he still hasn't been able to come out with a review means we probably are not dumb and this nickel and DNA board really is a challenge. My prediction, even when the community gets a better grasp on it, it is still going to be a challenge with so many variables to consider. What is more likely to happen is that Evolv will perfect the technology in the future, maybe with a different wire, and people will be much more cautious before they jump on it...lol.
 

KTMRider

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I'd really like to get pbusardo's opinion on this device and/or board. I'm curious to see what kind of experiences he's having. I have a feeling, and this is just a gut feeling, but I bet he's experiencing some of the same things many of us are and he's trying to understand it all and that's why a video has taken so long. There's no doubt he has a DNA40 but I'm sure he wants to put it through it's paces like the P3 before he puts his opinion out there. Anyway...

Didn't he already review the VF DNA 40?


I'm going to be ordering mine during the Cyber Monday Sale rush -- I've got the feeling that could slow down shipping. OTOH, looking at the bright side, the Evolv board might be a later rev.

I wouldn't worry too much. Mine has a date sticker inside the battery compartment and it's 11/12/2014. It's working fine and I tested it at 40w, where the display glitching usually happens, for over an hour.
 

KTMRider

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I'm going to be ordering mine during the Cyber Monday Sale rush -- I've got the feeling that could slow down shipping. OTOH, looking at the bright side, the Evolv board might be a later rev.

Wait a min. You're in FL! They have shops all over FL. You could probably go pick one up at one of their shops.
 

buffalofloyd

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No doubt he has been on the phone with Brandon. The fact that he was probably one of the first to get one and he still hasn't been able to come out with a review means we probably are not dumb and this nickel and DNA board really is a challenge. My prediction, even when the community gets a better grasp on it, it is still going to be a challenge with so many variables to consider. What is more likely to happen is that Evolv will perfect the technology in the future, maybe with a different wire, and people will be much more cautious before they jump on it...lol.

Yeah, all good stuff said there. I think eventually the same tech will be applied to kanthal if it's possible. That wire is certainly better to work with but obviously they aren't there yet in terms of the tech. I probably jumped too soon and Evolve and VS are reaping the rewards. No worries though. This is the first regulated device I've purchased since my original Provari about 2 1/2 years ago and I'm still glad I did. Love the form factor and the regulation. If I get too frustrated I can always go back to kanthal builds and actually increase my ohm's to get the vape I want instead of vaping at .80 or .90 on a mech, which these days I guess is not considered low.
 

buffalofloyd

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Didn't he already review the VF DNA 40?

I wouldn't consider it a review really, more of a presentation of the DNA40. Lots of techie talk and stuff, which is great, but not a review in my books.

Whoops, I see you said VF... is that Vapor Flask? If so, I don't think I saw that but I have a feeling I did actually and it was the DNA30.
 

RandyF

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Yeah, all good stuff said there. I think eventually the same tech will be applied to kanthal if it's possible. That wire is certainly better to work with but obviously they aren't there yet in terms of the tech. I probably jumped too soon and Evolve and VS are reaping the rewards. No worries though. This is the first regulated device I've purchased since my original Provari about 2 1/2 years ago and I'm still glad I did. Love the form factor and the regulation. If I get too frustrated I can always go back to kanthal builds and actually increase my ohm's to get the vape I want instead of vaping at .80 or .90 on a mech, which these days I guess is not considered low.

It will be interesting to see what happens with the premade Kanger type coils that will be released and how they hold up. As if those were unreliable enough as it is, it could be a disaster. If they start popping these in protanks and they work great, I am personally going to be seriously confused.
 
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