VaporShark rDNA

[dimo]

Here's the thing.

The meter started kicking in tonight. It was about 60%. I took the batteries out and put it on my charger and the battery was discharged all the way down to 3.3 Volts. I haven't had any of my regulated devices (Flask(DNA40),IPV2,Hana(Dna30) go below 3.6 when the battery is at approximately 25% on the display which is where I usually change out the battery.

Wow a coincidence I'm rewatching pbusardo's with Brandon from Evolv and he's stating the lowest the battery will go down to is 2.75 volts.

I'm under the assumption that it's safe, but I still feel a little nervous letting the batteries discharge that low.

It's weird that you vapor flask shows different considering it's the same board (dna40). Maybe it's running and old firmware on the board and the newer ones use a different algorithm for determing what it should show on screen.

Reading the specs for the LG battery, standard safe cutoff for discharge is listed at 2.5v. So if the cutoff is 2.75, it's safe and within spec.

Also, officially all these batteries are rated at 3.7v. Discharge curves will show them sitting in the 3.9-3.5 range for a long time. So if the bar just displayed voltage, you mod would show it dropping to around half pretty quick, sit there a long time and then drop like a rock when battery is dying.

I bet the majority would panic at the start of the day if the bar showed half charge and charge there devices prematurely, which realistically may not be true in terms of how much vape time is truly left in the battery.

 

[greaterthangravity]

oh nice, good to know it works with 1 amp. wonder if the 2amp they recoomend speeds things up a little?

Zip high speed charge requires 2 amps for full potential but will work with less. I've been using my ipad charger which is rated 2amp.

Vapor Shark Zip link

 

[BowTieGuy]

Well I still don't know what the short problem I'm having is all about. Before I went to work, I couldn't get any of my RDA's to work on it, kept reading super low ohms (0.04-0.06), and they've all got kanthal builds one them currently. When I got home, I put my PlumeVeil clone on there, and it worked for about an hour, then it went back to reading low ohms and giving me the short error or the ohms too low error. Then out of curiosity I threw my beauty ring from my Kanger Subtank on there, with an RDA on top, and it read fine again, no problems, read the resistance fine. After vaping on that for a bit, I tried it without the base, and now it seems to be working. I have no idea why it keeps flipping over to low ohms and giving me shorts randomly. Maybe it has something to do with the 510 connection? All of these RDA's function perfectly normal on a mech with no problems.

 

[rodsky77]

But it keeps beeping at me, so I have to nudge it a little and it's fine for 5 minutes, then it starts beeping at me again and I have to nudge it again. After 4 times or so, the thing finally shuts up.

You just need to get a better charger. One with 3 coils in it instead of 1. This way the positioning on the charger will not matter.

 

[Elyptic]

That would make sense for the first time I wicked it because it was fairly loose but the second time I got it pretty well packed, maybe it was too much cotton the second time.

It could be. Too much cotton will make it so there isn't enough absorbency in the cotton (packed too tight) which will lead to your wicking not keeping up and over temp problems.

The goal is to keep a steady flow of eliquid to all parts of the coil. This will allow the coils to produce tons of vapor and also cool the coil at a consistent rate. Remember, the coil is cooled by eliquid being evaporated and air flowing over it.

Wicked properly, a 0.14 ohm build on my Lemo drop will not go above 400 degrees at 35 watts with a 4-5 second draw and my airflow set at about 3/4 open.

The Lemo is rather airy (which helps), but the wicking was my problem and once I got it sorted out, things started working better.

I'll try to post photos when I tear down and rebuild in a few days.


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[KTMRider]

Zip high speed charge requires 2 amps for full potential but will work with less. I've been using my ipad charger which is rated 2amp.

Vapor Shark Zip link

I'd be interested in more technical data. That's just a marketing fluff for the masses.

Does anyone have a know good cable (capable of delivering 2a) and 2 USB wall adapters (1a and 2a)? I'd like to know the charging times of each.

 

[zipflint]

Mine just arrived, topping off the charge before I start messing with it.

 

[dannyddn]

Anyone have any shots of the new screen lit up?

How is the battery in these units? Does anyone recommend a better battery unit to swap out?

Thanks!

 

[KTMRider]

Anyone have any shots of the new screen lit up?

How is the battery in these units? Does anyone recommend a better battery unit to swap out?

Thanks!

Unless they changed it, it comes with LG HE2 which are very good batteries.

 

[Cotay]

Unless they changed it, it comes with LG HE2 which are very good batteries.

Your window seems a bit wider than mine.

 

[KTMRider]

Your window seems a bit wider than mine.

Not mine

 

[zipflint]

Quick impressions: Nice and solid. Exactly as heavy as you'd want it to be. Nice button. No blemishes. Larger font/display with nothing cut off on either side. Slapped a kanthal-built, .23 Ohm, dual coil Tobh on it just to test out. Firing just fine! 40watts is tolerable but a bit too warm for me.

So no issues at all. I'd post photos but it's the exact same thing that everyone else has posted already. I probably WILL be posting photos and asking for help once I start trying nickel builds though.

 

[Cotay]

Not mine

Right you are! It has been a long week and I apparently left my attention to detail at work last night.

 

[KTMRider]

Quick impressions: Nice and solid. Exactly as heavy as you'd want it to be. Nice button. No blemishes. Larger font/display with nothing cut off on either side. Slapped a kanthal-built, .23 Ohm, dual coil Tobh on it just to test out. Firing just fine! 40watts is tolerable but a bit too warm for me.

So no issues at all. I'd post photos but it's the exact same thing that everyone else has posted already. I probably WILL be posting photos and asking for help once I start trying nickel builds though.

No such thing as too many photos. Post 'em up!!!

Right you are! It has been a long week and I apparently left my attention to detail at work last night.

It's the weekend!!!

 

[Elyptic]

I'd be interested in more technical data. That's just a marketing fluff for the masses.

Does anyone have a know good cable (capable of delivering 2a) and 2 USB wall adapters (1a and 2a)? I'd like to know the charging times of each.

What matters is the amount of current that the charging circuit can draw. If it can draw 850mA for instance, a 1A and 2A charger will take the same amount of time as the device will only dear 850mA regardless. However, using a 500mA will charge more slowly.

I plug everything into my 2A iPad charger and don't worry. I figure that everything will then charge as fast as it can.

Do note, the reason some things do require a specific charger is because the circuit in the device is poorly regulated.


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[ScandaLeX]

Your window seems a bit wider than mine.

Mine looks just like Boozys'.

 

[UKPaul]

First dual coil Nickel - 28g - 3.5mm dia - 9 wraps - 0.13 ohms

 

[Elyptic]

First dual coil Nickel - 28g - 3.5mm dia - 9 wraps - 0.13 ohms

Nice looking build!! How does it vape?


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[UKPaul]

thanks elyptic,

Not sure yet as got caught with all my batteries flat so waiting for them to come off the charger.

 

[KTMRider]

What matters is the amount of current that the charging circuit can draw. If it can draw 850mA for instance, a 1A and 2A charger will take the same amount of time as the device will only dear 850mA regardless. However, using a 500mA will charge more slowly.

I plug everything into my 2A iPad charger and don't worry. I figure that everything will then charge as fast as it can.

Do note, the reason some things do require a specific charger is because the circuit in the device is poorly regulated.


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I understand that but we're trying to find out what the tech specs are for the charging board. If it's under 1a, the 1a and 2a will take the same amount of time to charge.