VaporShark rDNA

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KTMRider

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Hmmm... I'm not following you -- what route are supposedly passive cables using to limit the current? Or are you saying they're not actually passive cables???

There are 4 pins (and wires) on a USB cable. The 2 outer pins are for power (+ and -), the inner 2 are for data (tx and rx). All USB connectors have a circuit board. If the data pins aren't looped, the board defaults to whatever it's programmed for (100-500ma usually).

The USB cable has a spec that isn't always followed, especially the cheap cables from China.

Here's an older USB-A connector w/o the plastic molding around it (newer ones are much smaller).
usb-structure-411180.jpg
 

caged

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Because like all things computer (and most all tech, by definition, for that matter) are in flux and the specs are continually changing and evolving. They do try and make new devices backwards compatible, which is why a device cable of being charged at 1 amp can still be charged from a half-amp charger, it'll just do it slower. But it won't break anything.

I just find it odd that device that don't communicate with a computer are using the USB spec for power.
 

KTMRider

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I just find it odd that device that don't communicate with a computer are using the USB spec for power.

This is getting way off topic so this will be my last post on this.

The USB port itself is designed by specs, not the computer. The USB interface connects to the computer.
 

caged

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This is getting way off topic so this will be my last post on this.

The USB port itself is designed by specs, not the computer. The USB interface connects to the computer.

Of course. It was designed by spec for data transfer for the computer.

It's still on topic since it relates to Vapor Sharks decision to use USB for charging when most USB ports, cables, and wall adapters can't handle the power requirements.
 

KGie

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There are 4 pins (and wires) on a USB cable. The 2 outer pins are for power (+ and -), the inner 2 are for data (tx and rx). All USB connectors have a circuit board. If the data pins aren't looped, the board defaults to whatever it's programmed for (100-500ma usually).

The USB cable has a spec that isn't always followed, especially the cheap cables from China.

usb-structure-411180.jpg

Here's an older USB-A connector w/o the plastic molding around it (newer ones are much smaller).
. . . . .^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

By "older USB-A connector," do you mean that's a picture of what's at one (or both) end(s) of a cable? Or are we looking at the innards of a connector of a device charger?

Edit: Sorry, just saw your post that you believe this is off-topic and won't be replying to any more related posts. Thanks for the heads-up though on something I want to follow up on.
 
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blacklung

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And I don't understand why devices that require more power than a USB port can handle are using USB at all.

I don't think these devices you are talking about "require" more power.....they will charge just fine but will take longer due to the lower output, (laptop for example).
If you want to take advantage of fast charging, you will need to get a wall wart that puts out the higher output.

If you have something in mind that charges faster than a USB and is practical, let us know.
 

peraspera

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Have you guys seen this? http://i.imgur.com/wYXKbsL.jpg

Doesn't look like the new screen or firmware has fixed the issues with the dna40 chip in the new Vaporsharks.

I've not had the scrambled screen issue but that doesn't look anything like any of the photos I recall seeing of it. Unless someone who has had the issue can confirm that their screen looked similar before it went to hades in a hand basket I don't think we should assume the issue we see in the Reddit photo and the previous scrambled screen issue are the same or even related.
 

laurie9300

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Anyone with a Celcius board can do a test for me?

I'm in Australia and there have been reports of a fault when coming out of temp mode from celcius.

1. Switch to Celcius mode
2. Adjust up to max temp + 1 to switch to kanthal mode
3. I have had reports of either not firing at all or firing at max wattage even if wattage is set low

Can anyone confirm and please be careful not to burn your wick.................................
 

ScandaLeX

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I've not had the scrambled screen issue but that doesn't look anything like any of the photos I recall seeing of it. Unless someone who has had the issue can confirm that their screen looked similar before it went to hades in a hand basket I don't think we should assume the issue we see in the Reddit photo and the previous scrambled screen issue are the same or even related.

I'm confused. Are you saying the pic should be disregarded because it doesn't look like other screen glitches that have been posted in the past?
 
Anyone with a Celcius board can do a test for me?

I'm in Australia and there have been reports of a fault when coming out of temp mode from celcius.

1. Switch to Celcius mode
2. Adjust up to max temp + 1 to switch to kanthal mode
3. I have had reports of either not firing at all or firing at max wattage even if wattage is set low

Can anyone confirm and please be careful not to burn your wick.................................

Whoa! I tried it just now. Set to celcius then off with wattage set at 5 and it seemed to fire a lot stronger and burnt my wick...

I set it back to fahrenheit then off and also at 5 watts and it hit very very low barely any vape just as it should at that low watt...

Tried it again by going celcius and off at 5 watts and it really fired so much stronger even though it was displaying 5 watts...


I guess thats one confirmation for you... My wick is completely burnt and im gonna rewick now...
 

peraspera

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I'm confused. Are you saying the pic should be disregarded because it doesn't look like other screen glitches that have been posted in the past?

I didn't post anything about disregarding the issue shown in the pic. Hoping that someone who has had the garbled screen can weigh on on whether they saw something similar to the Reddit pic before their screen went full-on scrambled.
 

piggypinggy

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sorry guys I'm new. I m using 1.8ohm dual coil Aerotank Mega with around 8-9watts. I'm just wondering in what case I need to use 20,30,40W? Because I don't really understand why I need that much power. And one more question please, should I switch to 1.2 ohm instead of 1.8ohm? thank you everyone for the help<3 love u all
 

TheKiwi

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i was wondering how many 18650s do you guys usually have on hand for all day vaping?

I get through a full day with the rDNA. But I also plop it on the wireless charging pad whenever it's convenient.

I do carry around 2 spare batts no matter where I go tho; running outta battery reminds me of the days when I had ciggs but no lighter but worse, since it's not everyday you'll meet someone carrying a spare 18650 :p


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