VaporShark rDNA

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qorax

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Well.....a friend & I were Netflix'g & she had my Shark. Just as she was about to leave I stuck my foot out.....Did she trip? No. But she didn't leave with my Shark either! This is one of those friends that always forgets they have something of yours when they're leaving. The entire time she was vaping all she could keep saying is dayuuuuum girl I want one of these......yea....well it won't be this one! :lol:
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peraspera

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Is the DNA40 super power efficient (than earlier DNAs) or mine has a glitch?
...
The battery level doesn't seem to budge even after 24hrs (of moderate use). By now my DNA30 would've died.

The calculation for displaying remaining battery life uses the amount of power the DNA40 is using at the time one releases the power button. This means if temperature protection throttled the power down to low watts that is what the DNA40 will use to calculate remaining battery life. To trick the DNA40 into coughing up a more accurate reading take a very quick puff and release the power button while you are still inhaling.

I quoted Vapor Shark's explanation for the confusing battery indicator in this post.
 

vi3tl2ice

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alright, ive been out of the rDNA loop for a while since i received mine back around thanksgiving. since i've been receiving the freezing display screen, i thought of returning it back for repairs. as i am seeing now, what is up with these new display screens? do they fix all the issues associated with the dna40 chip?
 

TheKiwi

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Is the DNA40 super power efficient (than earlier DNAs) or mine has a glitch?

2vhuo2t.jpg


The battery level doesn't seem to budge even after 24hrs (of moderate use). By now my DNA30 would've died.

This is mine since using it from 9am, haven't gone on the charger yet

06d5c2b8cb4bb0bf0d979cd3edd81d74.jpg



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RamShot Rowdy

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Any comment/ feedback about the battery of the VS rDNA40??? Is it tight? How much force do you guys have to apply to remove the door.. mine moves easily.

The battery in mine fits pretty snug, but is easy to remove with the cloth strip under it. Battery door works great, easy to remove, but doesn't come off on its own.
 
Great info! Thanks!!!

Most mods usually cut off at 3.3v - 3.5v so I was surprised the first time I pulled my battery out and put it on my Nitecore D2 and it showed 3.14v. It takes about 3 hrs to charge on my Blackberry 1.8a charger which is about right (800ma charging board in the rDNA). It takes about 5 hrs on wireless so I haven't been using it a lot lately.

I was testing my wireless today and it only took about 3 hours. I wasn't looking at the light when it turned green like I was with the other tests, but it was right around that mark. My rDNA 40 gets pretty warm using wireless, but I do have a skin on it. The charging stand I have is supposed to output ~1A with 1.5A in, and the time it takes to charge leads me to believe that the wireless card charging circuit is greater than 800 mAH. I'd have to ask evolve about the specs, but it is faster than my standalone charger. These chargers all have different algorithms as to when they start throttling back charge current, which is why time isn't the best way to measure charge current. It matters more as to how much you are in a hurry to get your mod charged. :) I do think that the Zip charging will shorten the battery life, though. Thankfully, the batteries aren't horribly expensive.
 
Any comment/ feedback about the battery door of the VS rDNA40??? Is it tight? How much force do you guys have to apply to remove the door.. mine moves easily.

Mine doesn't take much force to remove, but it is on strong enough that I don't think it will fall off unless you jar the rDNA hard, like dropping it. ;) It is just one little magnet, though. I have a shark skin on mine, so it isn't going anywhere. If you use the Zip charging or a wireless dock, there's no need to remove the battery.
 

massbass22

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alright, ive been out of the rDNA loop for a while since i received mine back around thanksgiving. since i've been receiving the freezing display screen, i thought of returning it back for repairs. as i am seeing now, what is up with these new display screens? do they fix all the issues associated with the dna40 chip?


Yeah, now that I have a few back up devices I think I will finally send mine in for repair also. I waited for three reasons. 1. I didn't want to part with it 2. The screen glitch only happens when the device is sitting in a cold car for a few hours 3. I figured there would be multiple updates so I would hold off as long as possible to get a "better" version. I guess the time has come
 

Coldpunk

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For those wanting to run them, duals are going to drain your battery at an alarming rate. If I'm vaping heavily on a dual coil set up I usually bring two extra batteries and I don't put the sharkskin on.


Here's my favorite dual build to date. 2.5mm inside diameter, twisted 30g Ni200 micros(started out as spaced but I jacked them up a bit re wicking and decided to squeeze them). Comes in at .10 and I've been vaping it at 40 watts with temp set to 450.

DDACF8C3-5B7F-4BD2-949E-7580BB4E3C95_zpsspg08cl3.jpg


9FCF12AA-7769-4871-9A02-752CA7FAFF94_zpsgsgmqzhv.jpg
 

jmarkus

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For those wanting to run them, duals are going to drain your battery at an alarming rate. If I'm vaping heavily on a dual coil set up I usually bring two extra batteries and I don't put the sharkskin on.


Here's my favorite dual build to date. 2.5mm inside diameter, twisted 30g Ni200 micros(started out as spaced but I jacked them up a bit re wicking and decided to squeeze them). Comes in at .10 and I've been vaping it at 40 watts with temp set to 450.

DDACF8C3-5B7F-4BD2-949E-7580BB4E3C95_zpsspg08cl3.jpg


9FCF12AA-7769-4871-9A02-752CA7FAFF94_zpsgsgmqzhv.jpg

if your doing dual twisted, doesnt that essentially give you quad? if so, its no wonder that battery drains at an alarming rate!! im guessing vapor must be huge?
 

cjpeltz

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How high (temp and watts) are you guys using the Nautilus coils at?

I've had mine sitting and soaking in my mini since Monday, ready to pop on the rDNA as soon as it gets here.

Did I mention the mail is usually here an hour ago?
470 at 20W. Started at 450 but hit temp limit too quickly.
 

Brettanomyces

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I finally had some time to play around with nickel builds again tonight and didn't have much better results, I got a little more vapor production but not much and the cotton was still getting singed even at 400f. I was doing lung hits using my magma and getting less vapor than with mouth to lung on my kfl, it was hitting about 12 watts max and most of the time it was at 0-5 watts.

I tried 3 coils(1x twisted 30g, 2x 28g, all spaced coils wrapped on a 6/32 screw) and multiple wickings of all but the last one, I think I found the sweet spot with wicking and the spacing on the 28g coils was better than with twisted 30g but it made only a little difference. I think my connections were fine, 2 coils came out at .12 ohms and one at .11 ohms and they dropped to .11 and .10 after some use but then stayed there. I've also been making sure that every time I put a new build on that both the atty and rDNA are at room temp by letting them sit for about 20 minutes.

After scratching my head a bit I realized that it hasn't been asking if it's a new atty when I switch since the first few times the day that I got it. Could this be my problem and if it is can I do something about it or do I need to contact VS about an RMA?
 

Silver5656

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a quick bit of advice regarding ni200 coils on any dna40 device. After I build the coil and making sure the screws holding the wire are super tight, I do a dry burn on the device set at 600. IF the coil gets red hot, the build is wrong. I mean, it will vape, but it will be temperamental. Twisted builds in my experience work better with the ni200 because the wire is so soft, but they are fussy. I would suggest people start with a standard spaced coil at 2.5+mm (this is what I did until I could build them with regular success). Yes the ni200 is harder to work with, but it just takes practice, just like kanthal. I have gotten limited success with twisted 30g ni200 contact coils, but I would say the success rate is 25%. Another way to test the build, is after vaping through a few ml's, take a look at the coil. If there are uneven black/dark coils in your build (say coils 2 and 3 out of the 8 wraps), then that build was not successful. At least this has been my experience
 

qorax

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a quick bit of advice regarding ni200 coils on any dna40 device. After I build the coil and making sure the screws holding the wire are super tight, I do a dry burn on the device set at 600. IF the coil gets red hot, the build is wrong. I mean, it will vape, but it will be temperamental. Twisted builds in my experience work better with the ni200 because the wire is so soft, but they are fussy. I would suggest people start with a standard spaced coil at 2.5+mm (this is what I did until I could build them with regular success). Yes the ni200 is harder to work with, but it just takes practice, just like kanthal. I have gotten limited success with twisted 30g ni200 contact coils, but I would say the success rate is 25%. Another way to test the build, is after vaping through a few ml's, take a look at the coil. If there are uneven black/dark coils in your build (say coils 2 and 3 out of the 8 wraps), then that build was not successful. At least this has been my experience

Thanks for those tips buddy :)
 
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