VaporShark rDNA

[Sgt. Pepper]

a quick bit of advice regarding ni200 coils on any dna40 device. After I build the coil and making sure the screws holding the wire are super tight, I do a dry burn on the device set at 600. IF the coil gets red hot, the build is wrong. I mean, it will vape, but it will be temperamental. Twisted builds in my experience work better with the ni200 because the wire is so soft, but they are fussy. I would suggest people start with a standard spaced coil at 2.5+mm (this is what I did until I could build them with regular success). Yes the ni200 is harder to work with, but it just takes practice, just like kanthal. I have gotten limited success with twisted 30g ni200 contact coils, but I would say the success rate is 25%. Another way to test the build, is after vaping through a few ml's, take a look at the coil. If there are uneven black/dark coils in your build (say coils 2 and 3 out of the 8 wraps), then that build was not successful. At least this has been my experience

I refuse to do dry burns on nickel wire or even kanthal anymore for health/safety reasons. I am, at this point, only doing space coils around a 3mm screwdriver. To date, it has worked out well. Incredible vapor and taste with my juices. I have checked my coils after running several tanks in my lemo drop and all of the coils at this point have turned black; I credit this to the heavy vg/net's juices I am using.

You said that if the nickel coil gets red hot, with tc off, your build is wrong. Please explain. I am relatively new at building my own coils, so your expertise in this area would be appreciated.

 

[TheKiwi]

anybody else notice that the sharkskin doesnt sit correctly with the larger screen rdna40? Wish they would do something about it

YES. that's what I was wondering.

My new sharkskin fits my new rDNA even worse than the rdna30 fits my first rdna40!


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[Coldpunk]

I refuse to do dry burns on nickel wire or even kanthal anymore for health/safety reasons. I am, at this point, only doing space coils around a 3mm screwdriver. To date, it has worked out well. Incredible vapor and taste with my juices. I have checked my coils after running several tanks in my lemo drop and all of the coils at this point have turned black; I credit this to the heavy vg/net's juices I am using.

You said that if the nickel coil gets red hot, with tc off, your build is wrong. Please explain. I am relatively new at building my own coils, so your expertise in this area would be appreciated.

I'm glowing every time. I turn temp control off and set the watts at 10.5 and check for hotspots/that it's heating from the center out.

I've built lots of beautiful looking Ni200 coils that performed horribly. For me the key to getting them to perform well has been turning off temp control and looking for hotspots. If you're vaping at 420°, with a coil within dna40 specs, and you're hitting temp control on a normal draw(<4 seconds) I guarantee your coil isn't heating up properly. You've got a hot leg, unevenly spaced coil, or a connection issue with your screws/Ni200.

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

I'm glowing every time. I turn temp control off and set the watts at 10.5 and check for hotspots/that it's heating from the center out.

I've built lots of beautiful looking Ni200 coils that performed horribly. For me the key to getting them to perform well has been turning off temp control and looking for hotspots. If you're vaping at 420°, with a coil within dna40 specs, and you're hitting temp control on a normal draw(<4 seconds) I guarantee your coil isn't heating up properly. You've got a hot leg, unevenly spaced coil, or a connection issue with your screws/Ni200.

thanks. I must be getting lucky because I'm only hit tc after chain vaping, never after a few hits; and I've built about 10 spaced nickel coils so far. like I said, I'm not going to dry burn this nickel wire for health reasons. The spaced coils give me the best chance of getting it right without dry burning. I am thinking about getting one of those Kuro coilers (?) for contact coils. we'll see.

 

[Spirometry]

YES. that's what I was wondering.

My new sharkskin fits my new rDNA even worse than the rdna30 fits my first rdna40!


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They changed the case design? I was under the impression all they changed was the matte behind the window.

There are so many versions of this device it is hard to keep track of.

 

[UKPaul]

My VS Rdna 40 appears very fuel efficient.

Nearly 24 hours and still showing full battery on a 24g 0.8 ohms Kanthal build.

Weird but good.

 

[TheKiwi]

They changed the case design? I was under the impression all they changed was the matte behind the window.

There are so many versions of this device it is hard to keep track of.

Shrug. No clue. It's not something they have been detailed with. They could've sent me a rdna30 case. Or it could've just been poor design and fit. Who knows. But it's definitely a poor fit


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[Coldpunk]

My experience with Ni200 contact coils has not been a good one. They definitely require a glow. Even if I'm tension wrapping them on my qvapes coiler. My best performing contact coils have been either with twisted Ni200, or by pinching together a spaced coil I've been using long enough for the coil to have enough gunk to insulate the wraps from each other.

Before I was glowing my contact coils I noticed that most of them would heat up irregularly leading to something similar to a dry hit. Because the dna40 averages temperature across the whole coil if you have a pretty long coil(like if you're trying duals or twisted duals) you can have a hot spot within your coil hot enough to glow red hot and burn your wick within the temp limit. It's especially common in non twisted contact coils with 30g or 28g Ni200 due to the number of wraps required to reach the recommended resistance.

 

[caged]

Is it normal for the rDNA to get so hot when charging wirelessly? It's not so hot I can't hold it, but it's kind of close and definitely hot enough to make me worry about damaging the unit. Also, is wireless charging really that much slower than plugging the usb cable in (used the same USB wall adapter for both)?

I asked this before in the wrong thread (the DNA 40 thread instead of the rDNA....) so i apologize if this seems like a duplicate post -- I wanted to ask here since more rDNA users are likely to see it.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Shrug. No clue. It's not something they have been detailed with. They could've sent me a rdna30 case. Or it could've just been poor design and fit. Who knows. But it's definitely a poor fit


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Poor fit how? Since this is my 1st I've nothing to compare it to but mine fits great.

 

[maleasdf]

For those wanting to run them, duals are going to drain your battery at an alarming rate. If I'm vaping heavily on a dual coil set up I usually bring two extra batteries and I don't put the sharkskin on.


Here's my favorite dual build to date. 2.5mm inside diameter, twisted 30g Ni200 micros(started out as spaced but I jacked them up a bit re wicking and decided to squeeze them). Comes in at .10 and I've been vaping it at 40 watts with temp set to 450.

One thing I realized today that ohms law is still in effect for Ni200 builds. So jumped to steam engine and checked out some numbers.

To utilize full 40W the minimum resistance needed would be 0.156 ohms, so any builds below this limit will not be able to use 40W. Ex. For 0.1 ohm build, the max wattage is 25.7W (no wonder I was getting good battery life even with 40W use on 0.13 ohm builds). I think Evolv wanted users to not worry about display and use device with protection by chip, but at some point the user forgot that display doesn't necessarily mean actual value as internal protections are in place that bypass our ignorance.

I am not an expert but if I did a mistake in my understanding please correct me.

 

[TheKiwi]

Poor fit how? Since this is my 1st I've nothing to compare it to but mine fits great.

Kinda hard to explain; will post a pic up when I can.

But um. Just along the edges of the various cut outs, esp the screen area and at the top, you can tell that the dimension is clearly off because they don't lay straight. There's like a convex outline


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[Fathomrock]

For those of you looking for a vs rdna 40 in Stock now and ready to ship Delaware vapor has them now.
About 30 units available.

 

[puffon]

Is it normal for the rDNA to get so hot when charging wirelessly? It's not so hot I can't hold it, but it's kind of close and definitely hot enough to make me worry about damaging the unit. Also, is wireless charging really that much slower than plugging the usb cable in (used the same USB wall adapter for both)?

I asked this before in the wrong thread (the DNA 40 thread instead of the rDNA....) so i apologize if this seems like a duplicate post -- I wanted to ask here since more rDNA users are likely to see it.

Yes, mine will get very warm. If you are using Ni200, let it cool along with the addy, before attaching, otherwise the ohm reading may be off.
I've also noticed it will take longer to charge wireless.

 

[arken21]

Hi guys, my rdna 40 finally arrived. I did a coil build using 8-32 screw, 8wraps or 9 wraps..lol, kinda lost count and recounting makes my eyes hurt. Came out 0.4 which sucks :/
I don't even build my lemo correctly and now with this nickel coil!? OH MAN!
The device keeps asking if it's new coil once a while, and the ohm meter kinda jumps around...

any suggestion?

 

[leoan]

excuse my newbness, but what exactly are the benefits of using nickle wire besides temperature control?

 

[Ardy]

excuse my newbness, but what exactly are the benefits of using nickle wire besides temperature control?

None temp control is the only reason..

 

[dimo]

excuse my newbness, but what exactly are the benefits of using nickle wire besides temperature control?

None. That's the only reason it was picked. The resistance fluctuates with heat. They measure the change in resistance and can calculate the temp it's running at.

 

[UKPaul]

Not sure what I am doing wrong but tried another Nickel build after a 2 day break from it.

Marquis Atti - 28g Ni200 - 2.5mm dia - 9 wraps - 0.2 ohms, which seems high compared to some of you guys.

Coils were all equally spaced, screws nice and tite.

Wet wick and when firing it was only rising to 100 to 200 degrees.

After a couple of fires it started to ignite and flame and yet still wasn't hitting temp protection ????

Confused.

Is it a problem with my build or a fault with the device.

Has anyone else had the same issue.

 

[Sgt. Pepper]

Not sure what I am doing wrong but tried another Nickel build after a 2 day break from it.

Marquis Atti - 28g Ni200 - 2.5mm dia - 9 wraps - 0.2 ohms, which seems high compared to some of you guys.

Coils were all equally spaced, screws nice and tite.

Wet wick and when firing it was only rising to 100 to 200 degrees.

After a couple of fires it started to ignite and flame and yet still wasn't hitting temp protection ????

Confused.

Is it a problem with my build or a fault with the device.

Has anyone else had the same issue.

Wow! You did have temp control on... and if so what temperature and what watts were you running at?