RDA Veritas rda
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No, not hurt at all. My hand was blackened from the soot, but unscathed. My pants were melted though...
My second 1:1 from FT came today. Looks like it took as long getting to here from Chicago as it did getting to Chicago. Still, 10 days total isn't bad.
Processed Through Sort Facility December 1, 2014 , 11:30 am SHENZHEN EMS, CHINA
Departed USPS Facility CHICAGO, IL December 6, 2014 , 9:20 pm
Out for Delivery December 11, 2014 , 8:52 am
Makes it nice to have two different juices to switch between.
Processed Through Sort Facility December 1, 2014 , 11:30 am SHENZHEN EMS, CHINA
Departed USPS Facility CHICAGO, IL December 6, 2014 , 9:20 pm
Out for Delivery December 11, 2014 , 8:52 am
Makes it nice to have two different juices to switch between.
I'm tickled to death with mine, but I build at 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. I don't know how it would be at low sub ohms but most reviews I've read say it's more of a flavor atty than a cloud chaser.
I usually keep mine in the neighborhood of .5 - .6 when using a mech. I'm eyeballing a sigelie 100w right now, so I may bring the resistance up for that.
Back on topic, I've been having issues with my positive lead leg getting really hot. Last 2 builds have had the same issue. I've triple checked my nut/screw, clamped and adjusted as much as I can, and I can't get the pos leg to keep from overheating.
I've never had this issue on the V or any other RDA. Only thing I can think of right now is a bad batch of wire. These last 2 buolds have been the only time I've used this specific 26g.
Any ideas?
I've never had this issue on the V or any other RDA. Only thing I can think of right now is a bad batch of wire. These last 2 buolds have been the only time I've used this specific 26g.
Any ideas?
Well I'm probably just grasping at straws anyway but I was thinking that if your center pin wasn't snugged up it might be moving on you a little.
I haven't tried this yet, because I can't find a washer to fit, but what about putting a washer on the positive post, so you're trapping the wire between a nut and the washer. Gives a bit more surface to trap the wire, and possibly extends it out a mm or so, making the positive leg of the coil slightly shorter. I know a lot of people used to do that with the aga-t's that had the same type of positive post nuts.
I was getting a hot pos leg too. Which never happens on my micro/compressed coils.
Try laying the top portion of your wick over the top leg. I wrap my coil diagonally, so there's a nice slope to hang the top wick end over. Works a treat.
I don't know about a 'stock' Veritas, mine was remodeled, but there are two non-conductive washers at the top of the + post, just below the two nuts. I've heard (or read) Chowderhead does this because of situations like the one sclobernocker is having....
Maybe going to Lowe's, Home Depot or a good Old Fashioned Hardware Store you could find a small plastic washer to place there ...?
Maybe going to Lowe's, Home Depot or a good Old Fashioned Hardware Store you could find a small plastic washer to place there ...?
The insulator at the top of the 1:1 from FT is threaded and shaped like a nut. The top shelf is machined down in the shape of a nut and that insulator sits about half of it's length down in that and won't turn. Then when you thread the center pin up through and snug it up to the bottom o-ring, then snug the bottom nut against that top insulator, and the post won't turn. Since it's plastic, you can't crank it tight tight, but tight enough to keep the post from turning when you snug the top nut down trapping the wire.
If the top insulator isn't threaded, then it very important to snug the bottom nut down, then hold it from turning while tightening down the top nut to trap the wire. I'm sure you all know that already but though I'd include it in case some one new to the center post arrangement of the V reads it.
Or maybe cut one from an old credit card or other piece of plastic. Might not be pretty though.
If the top insulator isn't threaded, then it very important to snug the bottom nut down, then hold it from turning while tightening down the top nut to trap the wire. I'm sure you all know that already but though I'd include it in case some one new to the center post arrangement of the V reads it.
Or maybe cut one from an old credit card or other piece of plastic. Might not be pretty though.
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My insulator is still there and perfectly intact. Nothing that needs to be replaced.
Looks like it WAS the wire. Rebuilt it with some 24g a buddy picked up and its hitting like a train at .38 ohms. Legs are fine.
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