I own an rDNA 40 myself, but have yet to use this feature as I'm still perfecting my Kanthal builds. For those of you who have...does it live up to your expectations or not? I guess I'm just wondering if it's something I should get into right away or if it can wait. Thanks.
What's the verdict on Temperature Control?
- Thread starter ignotus
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I'll say in general, yes, it does, but with the addition of temperature control, the integrity of your electrical connections are much more a part of your vape than with straight power control.
With normal wattage control, a difference of, let's say, 0.03 ohms will only vary the voltage to the coil a little bit, but a 0.03 ohm change with temp control turned on will throw it off quite a bit.
With normal wattage control, a difference of, let's say, 0.03 ohms will only vary the voltage to the coil a little bit, but a 0.03 ohm change with temp control turned on will throw it off quite a bit.
Your saying job done while, if I read it right, K-Tech is commenting that a 0.03 ohm change is too much for this thing. To me that sounds like it is on the way and might become a game changer one day not that it is now. I build my own coils, but I don't want to have to build to such accuracies. I usually go for 1.5, but if I muck up and it's 1.6 I don't go dang it and start again.
Related question: Is there any taste with that wire?
It doesn't matter if your initial build resistance is 0.10 or 0.20 etc. What matters is that the connections are solid and the resistance doesn't jump around.
I don't notice any metallic (wire) taste.
You don't seem to understand what you're talking about. It doesn't actually matter what resistance you wrap your coil at.
The day is now, as users can tell you. I know I'm not going back.
Really I'm amazed, that sounds like an absolutely amazing product I will go buy one now. I mean the ability to reproduce the exact same vaping experience with absolutely any resistance is a game changer IMO.
Or it could be that you don't know what your talking about?
I think it's definitely a game-changer. I was all set to purchase one but I'm a new at building and wanted to learn as much as I can without the temptation of simply saying "F" it and starting to build with NI200. I imagine not having to worry about burnt cotton makes perscision less important. But definitely a leap forward.
Well you can be sarcastic or you can learn.
Fact is within reason say 0.10 to 0.20 the resistance does not matter, the vape is the same.
Fact is one of you owns the device and offers experience, one does not own the device and offers sarcastic opinions.
True. The resistance of your coil isn't nearly as important as the integrity of your connections - ALL of them, from the posts on your atomizer to the 510 connection. Any variations will be seen by the board as a temperature change.
I'm pulling numbers out of my ...., but let's say you put a new atomizer on the mod, and it reads at 0.25 ohms. It will see that 0.25 ohms and see that as its resistance at 70F. If something happens to your connections and your resistance goes up, it still assumes that 0.25 ohms is your baseline, so if resistance is up, it will think that temperature is now starting at 200F instead of 70F, and adjust power accordingly - which will be wrong.
It's just like a computer (well, it IS a computer, for the most part). Garbage in, garbage out. And you cannot have garbage connections.
I am NOT a pro, but I have been wrapping Kanthal coils for over a year, and I even rebuild things like Kanger and Nautilus coils. I may not be the best, but I think I am at least rather competent at producing nice, neat coils.
Ni200, because it's softer, requires a little more care and patience than Kanthal. I've had my XPV for about a month, and I am still getting the hang of Ni200 coils. At least I'm getting better at it, and not worse, lol.
i'm super excited about temperature control, i'm going to be purchasing either an rdna 40 from vapor shark or a dark star dna 40 box mod...i can't wait to get rid of dry hits, not to mention getting more puffs on a dripper before redripping means spending less money on juice
I am an experienced kanthal and nichrome coil builder... micro, spaced, but NONE of the twisted, fancy stuff, just straight up coils of most gauges.
That said, Ni200 is different, but not necessarily difficult. 28g is thicker and a bit easier, but I get more consistent vaping with 30g ... ymmv.
What i find is that nickle while softer and more delicate feeling, will hold its shape; its like maleable.
I don't bother with glowing it. the most I'll do is wipe it with alcohol and rinse first.
I find if you wrap a connecting coil and wick it with cotton, the pressure of the cotton makes small spaces. Sometimes some are still touching but for the most part slightly spaced, 9 or 10 wrap 30g on 3mm bit will get you around .20 ohms. (smaller diameter you need more wraps).
.20 ohms more or less is ok, and that will change over the course of a day.
*I think spaced is the way to go without having to worry about perfecting a contact micro.
I usually change coils in a couple days when the build up (I like 460 to 480 degrees) will require it.
Some like to keep it at or below charring the cotton temp but depending on which atomizer and air flow I have I'll go up just to get better response.
If air flow is adequate you can keep to moderate temps with no problem; it really helps.
What i'm saying is if you have a good chip, the dna40 with a good setup is king just because its a cleaner more efficient system.
It does take some finesse even with the simple way I do it.
But as far as rebuilding it just takes a few minutes so I don't mind rebuilding every couple days.
That said, Ni200 is different, but not necessarily difficult. 28g is thicker and a bit easier, but I get more consistent vaping with 30g ... ymmv.
What i find is that nickle while softer and more delicate feeling, will hold its shape; its like maleable.
I don't bother with glowing it. the most I'll do is wipe it with alcohol and rinse first.
I find if you wrap a connecting coil and wick it with cotton, the pressure of the cotton makes small spaces. Sometimes some are still touching but for the most part slightly spaced, 9 or 10 wrap 30g on 3mm bit will get you around .20 ohms. (smaller diameter you need more wraps).
.20 ohms more or less is ok, and that will change over the course of a day.
*I think spaced is the way to go without having to worry about perfecting a contact micro.
I usually change coils in a couple days when the build up (I like 460 to 480 degrees) will require it.
Some like to keep it at or below charring the cotton temp but depending on which atomizer and air flow I have I'll go up just to get better response.
If air flow is adequate you can keep to moderate temps with no problem; it really helps.
What i'm saying is if you have a good chip, the dna40 with a good setup is king just because its a cleaner more efficient system.
It does take some finesse even with the simple way I do it.
But as far as rebuilding it just takes a few minutes so I don't mind rebuilding every couple days.
As it changes, does that throw off the temp control? Do you have to reset it?
only if it goes below the limit for TP... like .08 or so then it will not come up to heat and show a message in the LED.
Given that there is no contact or connector issues, which I have not had.
Is there no way to dry burn Ni, or is it not a recommended process for other reasons?
I "gently" pulse my coils in wattage mode and give them a light squeeze, it gives the coil more stability when you wick. I have not tried to torch them because I'm concerned I will over heat the wire. I only use this with 28ga and the coil ohms stay real consistent as long as I have good contact with the posts.
- Status
Similar threads
