What's the verdict on Temperature Control?

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ukeman

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Is there no way to dry burn Ni, or is it not a recommended process for other reasons?

At first run, I did read that it was not recommended. But many of the first adopters and more do a little glow in low voltage mode mostly to help with contact coils (squeeze), and maybe to oxidize too.
I don't know if any are dry burning using same process to get gunk off.
 

Woofer

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Is there no way to dry burn Ni, or is it not a recommended process for other reasons?

I do it without problems. If you read Ni200 specs it will state it is not "code" for use in pressurized steam boilers at over 600 F. There is some carbon leaching and loss of ductility because of carbon leaching. Loss of ductility in a pressure vessel could result in a catastrophic failure. Loss of ductility in a coil could result in it being easier to wick.
 

NOVA jon

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I find it to be a step in the right direction. Take your time and pay attention to how you build and wick your coils and you will find that it's a great vape! It's taken me a week or so of trial and error to get consistency but the end result is like anything else. I'm sure that when everyone tried their first few builds, they had mixed results but over time, they became comfortable with how things had to be done!
 

ukeman

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I have been using mostly single coil atomizers (RTA) with not a lot of air flow...
I got in a new Prometey3 with better air flow than the P2 2mm vs. i.e. 1.5mm and wow, much better vape with good flavor too, and when i put it on a dna40, ni200 wire, my usual 450 degrees was too hot.
I have it down at 400 degrees and may go lower.
Just saying that maybe with proper air flow, you can get the temp down closer to wick-burning temp (i.e. 350 for cotton) and get great vaping.
 
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