When should you consider rebuildables?

[Kanj.nguyen]

Thrasher" data-source="post: 10163091" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">

i too feel the same way when i can get choking vapor through regular means as well as thickening it up with other tricks like certain wicks, ribbon wire etc i see no reason to push the boundaries of battery tech.

and sooner or later that one flawed battery is gonna make it out of the factory, someone will splinter half their face off and then the vaping ban hammer will really come down.

I did a side to side test once: my 1.2ohm dual micro setup vs normal 3/4 wrap of 28awg at 0.8ohm. Micro wins in every aspect: vapor like a fog machine, flavor is intense with zero dry hit even at zero tilt, and solid throat hit. Super smooth vape born from a well-behaved heating pattern. Not to mention better battery life and no scorching hot mod in your hand.

 

[speshiok46]

I actually like the fact that you care first about the theoretical: thats my language too. And i find that once you figure out the theoretical you can do anything much better with less effort than one who hasnt.

Exactly! I like to get that stuff out of the way first. I feel like wrapping my brain around that will be much easier than wrapping super thin kanthal wire.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

That I get. I'm not obsessed with getting down to below 1.0 ohm for the sake of it; I'm just entertaining the idea. At the end of the day, I'm just trying to understand the ranges I need to working within safely.



Like I said this is just theoretical. This is just how I process information. I will be working around the 1 ohm mark, realistically starting at 1.5 ohms and working my way down.

OK to summarize, so I don't get further confused: Amps in a setup should not exceed the amp rating on the battery to operate safely.

Now that we're done with that. It does make me a little concerned about my current setup. Like I said I have a stock K-101 kit. The ICR batteries that came with it are 2.5A at best. It sounds like I shouldn't be using the SmokTech DCT LR cartos (1.5 ohm) without getting a new battery? I'm currently using Boge LR cartos which I believe are 1.7 to 2.0 ohms.

Yeah i know you are just thinking about the theory. I was talking physics too.

Yep, current drawn must not exceed the limit. Under any circumstances; that includes unforeseen ones.

ICR batteries are not recommended for vaping. If you are buying from fasttech, they have Panasonics for like $10 a pair, great price. Those things have nice capacity too.

 

[Heavyrocker]

I f you can rebuild a regular atty head in the Nova,Protank or Evod,then you are ready for the bad boys.

 

[speshiok46]

So now to the first fun part of this. I'm getting a new VV/VW mod to go with the rebuildables. I'm leaning towards the $37.21 INNOKIN iTaste SVD Telescoping Variable Voltage Electronic Cigarette Battery Compartment at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping. Thoughts?

Please keep in mind, I'm very budget minded (cheap), and I want the best bang for my buck. Any other sub $50 VV/VW mods with similar feature are welcome too.

 

[Thrasher]

a lot of people are liking that mod and innokin is a decent company. i think busardo did a review on it cant remember

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

So now to the first fun part of this. I'm getting a new VV/VW mod to go with the rebuildables. I'm leaning towards the $37.21 INNOKIN iTaste SVD Telescoping Variable Voltage Electronic Cigarette Battery Compartment at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping. Thoughts?

Please keep in mind, I'm very budget minded (cheap), and I want the best bang for my buck. Any other sub $50 VV/VW mods with similar feature are welcome too.

VAMO: best value mod available. $30 same site. SVD is also very good.

 

[speshiok46]

Panasonics for like $10 a pair, great price. Those things have nice capacity too.

That confused me as well. I thought Panasonic discontinued $11.03 Panasonic CGR18650CH Rechargeable 2250mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping six months ago. How is fasttech still selling them. It also makes me a little nervous about ordering batteries from there in general. The fact that only a handful are labeled as "Authentic" would imply the rest are not truly the brand they are labeled.

 

[AttyPops]

@Kanj - one of the reasons for sub-ohms is the # of watts needed to heat that thick wire to high enough temp (and as you know, the thick wire is lower resistance). So, if you're saying, in essence, that you don't have to use wire that thick, and can just use 32 ga for example, then yeah, I understand your "myth" point. The SLR cloud chasers seem to like that low ohm wire, but IDK why. The 32 ga stuff lasts forever...I don't see a reason right now to go to 28 ga. But that's me. I'm not in the "oh wow dude it a so much better vape" crowd but to be fair to them, I haven't really investigated it fully.

Lots of great advice and good points here.

I'll just throw this in, You can get around having a multimeter like others have stated by using a decent APV. But I have found it far more convenient to check battery charge on batteries used in mechanicals and to check the charge of freshly charged batteries off a charger with a multimeter. I don't check freshly charged batteries every time, just every few cycles to see how the charger and batteries are performing.

Plus I have found other household uses for the mulitmeter, testing outlets for example, lightbulbs for continuity, disposal batteries to see if they have any life left. Not a must, but they certainly come in handy.

Follow Baditudes link, lots of great stuff there. I used ehumans advise on SS mesh wicks, worked for me and Baditude has the link posted, along with a multitude of others. Be prepared for failure, takes patience and persistance, plus you will get better over time.

^^^ Yes.

@everyone - If you're using an RBA on a APV that checks ohms, fine. However if you using an all-mech mod, you need to do more than check RBA coil ohms. For both RBA and standard/stock coils. If I was using an all-mech mod of any sort, I'd have a multimeter. I'd want to check resistance of the mod itself. I'd want to confirm battery age/charging. I'd want to make sure there's no shorts in the mod itself, like at the connector. I'd want to check button resistance if it was getting too hot.

Plus, if I were into SLR, I'd want to use a special connector and double check voltage drop under load. And check amps.

I've attempted to help some vapers with questions about their mech mods and frankly, if they don't have a multimeter for diagnostics they can't tell us anything useful (or diagnose anything themselves). It's all guesswork from there without the ability to test stuff.

And like TheSteve says...it's useful for other things too. Highly recommended, despite having another APV that checks coil ohms. I'd require it if it was up to me...mandatory for mechs. And it's easier plus more accurate to check ohms of coils too.

 

[Thrasher]

just because they actually quit making them does not mean they dont have a warehouse full of them to get rid of

i bought batteries from there, the green panny PD2900's as well as several other people and all say they are authentic.

also fasttech has stated that several people have done the copy for the batteries, and some of them forgot authentic, and its not really a priority right now with everything going on to re proofread every post.

if in doubt they dont rebrand them and the labels still have the panasonic factory wraps on them with model numbers and and tech info which is also why they are all different colors(factory stocking codes)

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

@attypops: no the "myth" part is explained where i said the physics behaves the same way between 0.9 and 1.1 ohm. 1 ohm is not a "critical point" of any sort.

Thicker wire does make a difference, for example the vape is warmer. Thin and thick wires may be heated to the same temperature but there is more heat in the thicker coils.

 

[AttyPops]

@attypops: no the "myth" part is explained where i said the physics behaves the same way between 0.9 and 1.1 ohm. 1 ohm is not a "critical point" of any sort.

Uhmm....to be fair to the SLR guys....you may have the cart before the horse. The ohms are a result of needing the watts to drive the coil. They aren't actually after a particular ohm rating. They're after wattage spread across a heavy gauge wire and spreading that heat around the wick...often with multiple coils.

So you're right about the ohm math. But...it's not their motivation as I understand them. It's the effect of their requirements. I'm not even sure the cutoff for SLR is at the 1.0 mark although in practicality that's probably about where it is with 28 ga wire for example.

It's about thermodynamics and using all-mech 3.7 volt batteries. That's where the watts (due to the ohms) get practical with the thick wire.

As I understand it.

EDIT: It often comes off that way though (ohm driven). It's really about electronic mods not being able to drive that many watts so they have to use direct battery connection type mech-mods and the thick coil makes it an SLR thing. Using standard coils at normal ohms (like 2.0 ish +/-) is OK too but not what they are after as I read it.

 

[speshiok46]

a lot of people are liking that mod and innokin is a decent company. i think busardo did a review on it cant remember

Yeah I watched that, I was thinking that too. I know a lot of people that own and love their innokin products.

VAMO: best value mod available. $30 same site. SVD is also very good.

I do like the way the screen is acclimated, and the modular tube for much less screwing compared to telescoping. The only thing is,I heard that in the V2, the rattle of placing an 18650 in the long configuration, which is designed to fit the dual 18350 setup as well, causes some parts to jar/move and come loose. I'm sure that only happens to a few. There seems to be a large following of the V2. PBusardo did a review on the Vamo V2 as well.

 

[Thrasher]

the coming apart is more in the v3, havent seen a v2 come apart yet (if your not including the one i dropped down the stairs)

but the SSv2 from fasttech is surprisingly a nice mod for 30 bucks. i wouldnt buy it for 80 but 30 is a win

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

@attypops: yeah i know SLR is really just super high power. But my point is that so many just focus on getting out the power and not think about where its going in and how. Im sure when people started doing SLR it was a natural adaptation to the need for more power: say you want 4 wicks 4 coils, naturally you want super high power. But now it has become like a different kind of vaping. Which it is not. Thats why i call it a myth. Some people do like 2 wraps to get the low resistance thinking it makes their vape better. No it doesnt.

@speshiok: the problem with 18650 mode in the v2 was fixed after the first few batches like half a year ago. Its just the spring was too short. I just got another VAMO from fasttech, no problem.

 

[speshiok46]

just because they actually quit making them does not mean they dont have a warehouse full of them to get rid of

i bought batteries from there, the green panny PD2900's as well as several other people and all say they are authentic.

also fasttech has stated that several people have done the copy for the batteries, and some of them forgot authentic, and its not really a priority right now with everything going on to re proofread every post.

if in doubt they dont rebrand them and the labels still have the panasonic factory wraps on them with model numbers and and tech info which is also why they are all different colors(factory stocking codes)

I had a feeling it was probably something like that. A lot of positive customer feedback too.

 

[Thrasher]

@attypops: yeah i know SLR is really just super high power. But my point is that so many just focus on getting out the power and not think about where its going in and how. Im sure when people started doing SLR it was a natural adaptation to the need for more power: say you want 4 wicks 4 coils, naturally you want super high power. But now it has become like a different kind of vaping. Which it is not. Thats why i call it a myth. Some people do like 2 wraps to get the low resistance thinking it makes their vape better. No it doesnt.

@speshiok: the problem with 18650 mode in the v2 was fixed after the first few batches like half a year ago. Its just the spring was too short. I just got another VAMO from fasttech, no problem.

yea i agree, most see some video and go me too. wrap up a SLR and go, look at me look at me.

 

[speshiok46]

So I am putting together my order now with some last questions.

With regards to batteries, based on http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/fasttech/440614-quick-reference-shopping-guide-fasttesh.html, I should be getting two sets of batteries.

Batteries for VV/VW mod - I'm leaning towards this one for the SVD mod (auto shut down at 5+ amps): $14.79 Panasonic NCR18650B Rechargeable 3400mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack

Batteries for Mech mod - Toss up between: $11.94 Sony US18650VTC3 18650 1600mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries (2-Pack) 2-pack - 30A discharge
or
$11.03 Panasonic CGR18650CH Rechargeable 2250mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteries 2-pack - authentic cells / 2-pack
I'm leaning towards the Sony: added protection just in case, and I don't vape out enough so a dead mod wouldn't be an issue.

With that said, I would love to get away with just buying one pair of batteries. If this is advisable, which pair should I get for both mech and VV/VW mods?

Next do I need a new charger? I'm currently using the one that came with my starter kit (probably crap). Is this the best (cheapest yet safe) option: $14.80 Nitecore I2 Lithium Li-ion Ni-MH Ni-Cd Smart Battery Charger - US plug / 2-channel charger? I hate the idea of spending more on a charger than the actual batteries but oh well.

I'm pretty dead set on these:
$37.21 INNOKIN iTaste SVD Telescoping Variable Voltage Electronic Cigarette Battery Compartment
$6.16 Phoenix V5 Detachable Dripping Atomizer (1.5ml) - 1.0Ω / Stainless Steel
$4.41 X1 3.5ml Detachable Dripping Electronic Cigarette Atomizer - 2.4ohm / gold

 

[Thrasher]

dont use protected batteries in a regulated mod.
also some have complained the button top on the 3400's is very recessed and doesnt work in every mod.

get the imr high drain CGR or the 2900 pd
the sony is nice for the high amp limit but if not sub ohm vaping on a mech, i would go for Mah over the high amp limit..
http://www.fasttech.com/products/14...onic-cgr18650ch-rechargeable-2250mah-37v-1865
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...onic-ncr18650pd-18650-36v-2900mah-rechargeabl


A good charger that charges the batteries properly can never be understated and its a few dollars yea but will extend the life of the batteries. as it is come back in a month or so and get some more batteries. the more you put in rotation the longer they all last.

i dont know how the V5 with 3 holes performs compared to the original one.

 

[Gazelli]

I'm only a couple weeks into vaping and have been using an RSST for the last week. There is a huge amount of information about RBAs here and on Youtube.