But in a wattage only mod on wattage setting, it still asks. Just using programming from a temp system?
I think - and someone please correct me if I’m wrong- , that even in VW mode, the mod needs to know the actual resistance (at room temperature), in order to calculate the output. According to the formula Voltage= Resistance * Current, the mod will raise (or lower) the current (Amps) if the resistance changes. I suppose you build your own coils, with the same wire and the same number of wraps, or you buy them, also with the same wire and nb of wraps every time. In both cases the resistance will be always about the same, maybe with a variation of max 0.02 Ohms, and that’s why it doesn’t make much of a difference if you answer yes or no. But try to install a coil with for example double (or half) the resistance of the previous one, without setting it to this new value, and you will (should) notice the difference.But in a wattage only mod on wattage setting, it still asks. Just using programming from a temp system?
I think - and someone please correct me if I’m wrong- , that even in VW mode, the mod needs to know the actual resistance (at room temperature), in order to calculate the output. According to the formula Voltage= Resistance * Current, the mod will raise (or lower) the current (Amps) if the resistance changes. I suppose you build your own coils, with the same wire and the same number of wraps, or you buy them, also with the same wire and nb of wraps every time. In both cases the resistance will be always about the same, maybe with a variation of max 0.02 Ohms, and that’s why it doesn’t make much of a difference if you answer yes or no. But try to install a coil with for example double (or half) the resistance of the previous one, without setting it to this new value, and you will (should) notice the difference.
And there’s another reason the mod is programmed to ask this question: say you vape a few long draws and for some reason you unscrew the atomizer, and reinstall it quickly, while the coil is still warm, and the resistance value will be considerably higher than at room temperature. But this doesn’t mean that you now want this new value as the new base value, it’s still the same as before. in this situation, answering No will leave the setting on its previous value, as it should.
ok, Let’s say you put in a .15 coil and say yes, it’s a new coil. Now remove that and put in a 1.6 coil and say no, it’s NOT a new coil. The screen will show the ohm as .15 from the previous coil but as soon as you hit fire it’ll change to the correct 1.6. So my point being the mod will do the exact same thing wether you say yes or no. It will not output the volts as if it’s the .15 you said it is. It will adjust the volt to the 1.6 to make the watt setting you selected
None of my 30+ regulated mods would fire the 1.6ohm coil in your example. Instead they'd put out an error message like "check atomizer" or "short".
There are instances where I've torched my throat from a dry hit (like last night) where I picked up a kit I had dropped, went to hit it, and the resistance had jumped from 1.2Ω to 2.13Ω. 12.5W for this 1.2Ω coil was a perfect vape. 12.5W for a 2.13Ω coil is not okay. In MTL, Wattage and resistance changes are much more sensitive than they are in DL with high Wattages. Say for example, changing a 0.15Ω coil 10 or so Watts may or may not be able to yield you any noticeable difference. If you change 10W using a 1.8Ω, you just went from no flavor/not vaping, to OMG MY HOUSE IS ON FIRE. Those small changes matter greatly in MTL.
So, to answer your question more directly, you may find that these small changes to be rather annoying, but it matters for MTL vaping.
I think - and someone please correct me if I’m wrong- , that even in VW mode, the mod needs to know the actual resistance (at room temperature), in order to calculate the output. According to the formula Voltage= Resistance * Current, the mod will raise (or lower) the current (Amps) if the resistance changes. ...
ok, Let’s say you put in a .15 coil and say yes, it’s a new coil. Now remove that and put in a 1.6 coil and say no, it’s NOT a new coil. The screen will show the ohm as .15 from the previous coil but as soon as you hit fire it’ll change to the correct 1.6. So my point being the mod will do the exact same thing wether you say yes or no. It will not output the volts as if it’s the .15 you said it is. It will adjust the volt to the 1.6 to make the watt setting you selected
Because the discepancy in ohms is way too big and thus the safety features of the mod would kick in. My mods would never change the ohms on their own when I get asked whether it's a new coil or not.Why?
To be exact, I'm not entirely sure. I'm assuming the compression from the drop changes the amount of contact between the battery and coil via the 510 which throws off the resistance reading. Simply unscrewing and reattaching the tank has fixed it in 99% of these cases.For some reason, my mod also tends to sense a difference in Ohms when it drops, and pops up the ‘New Coil?’ question. Why would that be?
If the Mod knew what the assumed "Room Temperature" Ohm reading was for a Coil(s), because the User was prompted at Atomizer Change and then Save that Ohm Reading, couldn't the User switch between VW and TC Modes and still have TC theoretically perform the same no matter what the Current Temperature of the Coil(s) was/is when the user switched to TC from VW Mode?