TC not working

[Hoggy]

A screwdriver? Or did you mean a screw? I’m the OP, and from the methods proposed in this thread, I chose to simply make contact coils and stretch them a little, which works just fine. Maybe the wraps aren’t “perfectly spaced”, but they don’t touch each other, and that’s what matters, doesn’t it?

Oops, yep, I meant screw.
But I think one of the things that can cause TC to fail is uneven heating, so the more 'perfectly spaced', the better. But as long as things are heating relatively evenly, it should theoretically be ok. And along these same lines, I think a Clapton might have more possibility for uneven heating.

Another factor I think, besides the mod or coils, could be an atty itself that has problems with temp control.. Like maybe it has a brass positive pin, and/or aluminum body. I'm not saying those specific materials - but something that's just not conducive to proper resistance readings. Or maybe even a mod-atomizer incompatibility.

 

[untar]

I have yet to see a clapton/fused clapton, contact or non contact, that can't be set up to do proper TC.
I'm in the TC-only game for over a year now and not a single one in any atomizer has failed so far.

From the OP's first post it sounds more like a case of mislabeled wire, 80-90°C with hot vape would equate no significant resistance change with a big temperature difference - maybe it's not even SS. Even bigger wire suppliers have had mislabeled batches (like eg KP).

 

[BillW50]

The Clapton I was using was full SS316 both cores and wrap. Don’t quote me on this but seem to recall hearing that TC may not work well with Clapton through a DJLsb video with one of the developers of the DNA chipset. I could be wrong though. If I find the vid I’ll post it

Here’s the video. Interview with Brandon from Evolv on the new DNA250C chipset. It’s more showcasing the new Replay feature but at 16:15 Brandon does mention a SS Fused Clapton worked terribly in TC.

Whoa! Brandon didn't say SS Claptons don't work well with TC, but contact SS Claptons don't work well with TC. Yes I totally agree. But spaced SS Clapton I wouldn't expect any problems. Btw, I did see this video before and I appreciate seeing it again. Thank you!

 

[BillW50]

Umm.. Yeah... A screwdriver might work, but the other stuff you (& others) mention just has NEVER worked out for me to get nicely spaced coils. No matter what they end up being god-awful misshapen coils from hell. Although thicker gauge could be a different story, I've only gotten into thicker gauges recently (24 & 22) - and still have a nuclear-holocaust stockpile of various other thinner gauges that I twist. One thing to be said for thicker gauges, is they practically last forever - until I get bored, that is.

Well briefly, can you explain how you make spaced coils? Maybe the way you do it, I couldn't do it that way either. This one below I did a few years back with a screwdriver. It is spaced, but just barely (just the way I like them).

It's so bad for me, that if a mod-atty combo doesn't want to work in TC with contact coils, then it will simply end up being a power-mode coil (even if ni-200 or Ti) - end-of-story.

You use Ni200 and Ti in power mode? You know what happens when you do this? I did this as a test with Ni200 under power mode and EScribe Device Manager graphed this out.

Both live ohms and voltage keeps climbing. And the live ohms tells me what the temperature is at. With Ni200, double resistance is about 420°F. This is way passed double. I didn't do the calculations but this is somewhere way passed 500°F. And as long as it continues to fire, it just gets hotter and hotter. How can you vape this way? And that's spaced. Contact Ni200 under power mode is even far worse and could result in a nearly dead short. Then with any luck, one leg would act like a fuse and melt and disconnect the circuit before any real harm happens.

 

[Hoggy]

Well briefly, can you explain how you make spaced coils? Maybe the way you do it, I couldn't do it that way either. This one below I did a few years back with a screwdriver. It is spaced, but just barely (just the way I like them).

Nowadays, I wrap around a Kuro coiler - and try pulling the wraps at the opposite end of the handle. I've seen it done a lot on Youtube that way, but it just never works out for me. Before I used coilers, I used to grab both sides of the coil (pull, push, etc) - with the same horrible result.

You use Ni200 and Ti in power mode? You know what happens when you do this? I did this as a test with Ni200 under power mode and EScribe Device Manager graphed this out.

Both live ohms and voltage keeps climbing. And the live ohms tells me what the temperature is at. With Ni200, double resistance is about 420°F. This is way passed double. I didn't do the calculations but this is somewhere way passed 500°F. And as long as it continues to fire, it just gets hotter and hotter. How can you vape this way? And that's spaced. Contact Ni200 under power mode is even far worse and could result in a nearly dead short. Then with any luck, one leg would act like a fuse and melt and disconnect the circuit before any real harm happens.

Those would be contact. I generally vape at low watts anyways - from ~18-32 watts. So when ni-200 and Ti coils fail with TC, I just vape at what is usually comfortable - at whatever the wattage turns out to be (I forget exactly what that could end up being). The main thing TC is supposed to be important with those, is so that it doesn't go above temps of ~600F. If it ever got near those temps, I wouldn't be able to hit it regardless. And then there's those times when even if the device remains in TC, it likely goes past that anyways - which could again be why I would switch it to power at lowest watts comfortable.

Plus, with Ti, it's debatable if titanium dioxide is dangerous or not. But I can tell it never gets near those temps anyways - except maybe for that split second where temp control fails spectacularly.

However, that's with older devices - in which I basically ended up going back to kanthal/nichrome/SS in power mode due to all the hassles with finicky TC. My new ones all seem to do temp control perfectly, no mater what TC-coil (with ni-200 being twisted with kanthal of higher ohms) type I throw at it. Heck, even nichrome works in TC with the Voopoo Drag after enabling it in software.

 

[KurtVD]

From the OP's first post it sounds more like a case of mislabeled wire

You might be on to something: Even though it behaved ‘better’ as a single wire coil (I undid the twisted wire because i had nothing else at that time), once I received a couple of other spools of SS wire, I noticed that it worked much better with them, and the taste is different too...

 

[Fidola13]

Nowadays, I wrap around a Kuro coiler - and try pulling the wraps at the opposite end of the handle. I've seen it done a lot on Youtube that way, but it just never works out for me. Before I used coilers, I used to grab both sides of the coil (pull, push, etc) - with the same horrible result.



Those would be contact. I generally vape at low watts anyways - from ~18-32 watts. So when ni-200 and Ti coils fail with TC, I just vape at what is usually comfortable - at whatever the wattage turns out to be (I forget exactly what that could end up being). The main thing TC is supposed to be important with those, is so that it doesn't go above temps of ~600F. If it ever got near those temps, I wouldn't be able to hit it regardless. And then there's those times when even if the device remains in TC, it likely goes past that anyways - which could again be why I would switch it to power at lowest watts comfortable.

Plus, with Ti, it's debatable if titanium dioxide is dangerous or not. But I can tell it never gets near those temps anyways - except maybe for that split second where temp control fails spectacularly.

However, that's with older devices - in which I basically ended up going back to kanthal/nichrome/SS in power mode due to all the hassles with finicky TC. My new ones all seem to do temp control perfectly, no mater what TC-coil (with ni-200 being twisted with kanthal of higher ohms) type I throw at it. Heck, even nichrome works in TC with the Voopoo Drag after enabling it in software.

From some articles I’ve read I saw that it’s best to keep the temps below 450F for safest use of wire. Now I’m wondering maybe that was just for ss 316l. I’ll have to see if I can find the articles. Anyways that’s what I try to do. Plus I’ve never gotten a dry hit dripping in TC mode.

 

[BillW50]

Maybe you are thinking about this study Fidola13.

New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers

 

[ScottP]

From some articles I’ve read I saw that it’s best to keep the temps below 450F for safest use of wire. Now I’m wondering maybe that was just for ss 316l. I’ll have to see if I can find the articles. Anyways that’s what I try to do. Plus I’ve never gotten a dry hit dripping in TC mode.

The 450F is for safety of the juice, regardless of the wire. As mentioned per the link BillW50 posted eliquid can start breaking down into various aldehydes such as formaldehyde as temp gets too high. Juice with some amount of distilled water in it can go a bit higher in temp.

 

[Fidola13]

The 450F is for safety of the juice, regardless of the wire. As mentioned per the link BillW50 posted eliquid can start breaking down into various aldehydes such as formaldehyde as temp gets too high. Juice with some amount of distilled water in it can go a bit higher in temp.

Ah ha! Thanks for clarifying that for me. I knew something was giving off not so good somethings lol! I mistakenly thought it was the wire. Either way that’s one of the reasons I use tc although with some mods they may not be so accurate. I try to dial it in by warmthness based on a DNA or Yihi temp setting. They’re probably the most reliable from the videos I’ve seen.