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you're doing it again, tj.
go back to the beginning of the discussion please. figure out what it is i was responding to that you took exception to and what the relevance was.
(a 2 ohm coil with the same surface area as a .25 ohm coil... (not build... coil... as it was stated) at the same wattage)
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Here are the two coils modeled in Steam Engine: the 2 ohm and the 0.25 ohm.
Coil surface area affects watts (amount of heat, not temperature) per area and is called heat flux in the calculator. You can see I have very similar numbers for heat flux in both models at 50 watts each, which is accomplished by using longer, thinner wire in the 2 ohm coil and the opposite in the 0.25 ohm making the surface area the same. This is all pretty straight forward and considering heat flux alone it is fairly obvious that with the same watts per square inch and given adequate wicking, temperatures and vapor production will be very similar.
But the total mass is different and the 0.25 ohm wire is shorter and thicker also. The heat capacity numbers reflect this in joules per deg kelvin, with the 0.25 ohm coil having about twice the heat capacity of the 2 ohm coil. Now, this gets interesting and I don't know enough about this to give you a good explanation, but IMO it doesn't matter much at the amount of difference between these two coils. What happens in practice is that once the whole wire is heated to equilibrium while wicked and wet, the main difference in the way these systems will vape is that the 2 ohm coil will heat up faster. Once hot, all that matters is that the amount of heat per coil area is the same.
I haven't tried it with a regulated, high voltage device, but I have used these principles with the Steam Engine calculator for a range of mechanical mod coils and it is working for me. Here is my everyday vape at 0.3 ohms with 27 gauge wire and here is my high power setup at 0.18 ohms with 24 gauge wire in a Mutation X. In these two examples the heat flux in the 0.3 ohm setup is a little more aggressive than the 0.18 ohm, but the heat capacity is also about double in the 0.18 ohm. The difference is I have more power in the 0.18 ohm which I believe is why heat up time is as best I can tell the same, almost instant though it would be hard to tell the difference between 0.1 sec and 0.2 sec. The vape is more aggressive in the 0.18 ohm with more vapor produced, but neither setup will burn juice even with really gunked coils.
I suspect that with bigger wire mass and diameter difference, vape performance differences would become evident. I don't think it matters though for the range of wire size we use unless we push right close to the performance edges.
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Actually the Atlantis is a clearomizer or glassomizer that uses a replaceable sub ohm head.
A cartomizer is a small metal tube with a coil inside surrounded by wicking material, used punched inside a tank or unpunched used by itself.
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Atlantis Clearomizer tank
Cartomizer
BTW, the Atlantis is about the 250th version of the clearomizer (and they still cant get it right)
The cartomizer was first introduced in 2007, and the design remains unchanged.
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It's not as "correct" as you seem to think it is. Coil resistance in a variable wattage, regulated mod like the Sigelei 100, for example, has no bearing on battery current drain. Coil resistance only dictates the output voltage.
Notice the amp draw (battery drain - current) doesn't change in the examples below (.5ohm coil and 1.0ohm coil) but the output voltage does. The second example also shows that a 1ohm build cannot be run at 100W due to the mod's voltage limitations. Additionally, current drain increases as battery voltage decreases. This can be modeled in the calculator by clicking the the down arrow next to the battery voltage and watching the current drain value increase.
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
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Which causes me to ask what is your definition of a clearomizer?
It is a question, not a comment, or innuendo.
I mean I do not think the definition you are using would be:
"A clearomizer is a clear tank system where you can see how much liquid is in the tank"
Hmmmmmm. I think so. But is see called a "glassomizer" online too. But yeah that's why I thought is was a carto. Is it or not!?!!?
So...we basically don't know how and what to categorize the items we use to vape with...
Hahaha! Every response of yours is very funny!!
Yeah really, I mean, so what is it? A carto or a clearo? Because the coil is considered a carto which is why I would define it as a carto. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
I've been noticing the change from clearo to 'tank' a lot - especially with new members. A while back, a tank was strictly a cartotank.
I think vaping language is evolving as fast as the technology. I would call the Atlantis a clearomizer or tank.
A cartomizer is a vertical metal tube with internal batting and a non exposed coil - at least to me. But I have no idea if this would be considered a 'standard' definition.
So in hipster vapor lingo the Atlantis is totally a clearomizer or "glassomizer". See how I utilized "totally" there? I'm so getting it.
the atlantis is a clearomiser.
it's clear, so you can see how much liquid is inside.
it's not clear plastic, it's glass; so it's a glassomizer
nowadays they're probably more referred to as tanks; or replaceable coil tanks. but most tanks nowadays are replaceable coil.
But the coil itself- the main unit- is defined as a cartomizer. Interesting.
The coil head is usually just called a coil head, although nowadays that one resembles cartomizers a lot, which isn't a surprise.
clearomizer comes from clear and cartomizer.
But cartomizer is usually used for a disposable carto system where the thing you call a carto is tossed when used up.
"Tank" is used to distinguish a reuseable system; the tank is reused, but the coil is used and replaced in the tank.
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