Why Wouldn't You Buy a ProVari?
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I've been using the same ones that I ordered with it. And up to about 2 weeks ago I was charging them at night and vaping 8-9 hours off of them a day. I will admit they are not still holding a charge like they used to. I've lost about an hour of use here lately. I usually put it on the charger when I go to bed but here lately they was dying about an hour before I ran out of energy lol. I probably need to replace them soon.
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have had my provari over 6 mths, i use 2.5ohm dct tank at 4.3 to 4.7v depending on my mood i have been able to put it to 5.2
and if that isnt strong enough your probably burning the juice which might cas health issues?(chemical reactions and all)
2 weeks ago a tank i had leaked inside and my provai died (e4) i followed instructions on there website using a electronic cleaner instead of the 99% alcho. i tryed 5 times failed. sent a email.
the support was great i was asked to try clean it again and if it failed to send it back and they will fix it and send it back fast.
since its prity far away to send it from australia to us, i decided to try find some 99%alcho. used that once waited over night for it to dry BAM working provari again.
not only works great, if somthing goes wrong you have great email support i sent the email at 12 mid night and had a reply by 7am when i woke up.
it just works and gives a very enjoyable vape, easy to operate.
get the 18650 batterys and you will be vaping for long time in between charges
the only problem i have with it, its a little big to been seen in public with
but i have a 510 for that.
hope this helped anyone thinking about the prvari.
and if that isnt strong enough your probably burning the juice which might cas health issues?(chemical reactions and all)
2 weeks ago a tank i had leaked inside and my provai died (e4) i followed instructions on there website using a electronic cleaner instead of the 99% alcho. i tryed 5 times failed. sent a email.
the support was great i was asked to try clean it again and if it failed to send it back and they will fix it and send it back fast.
since its prity far away to send it from australia to us, i decided to try find some 99%alcho. used that once waited over night for it to dry BAM working provari again.
not only works great, if somthing goes wrong you have great email support i sent the email at 12 mid night and had a reply by 7am when i woke up.
it just works and gives a very enjoyable vape, easy to operate.
get the 18650 batterys and you will be vaping for long time in between charges
the only problem i have with it, its a little big to been seen in public with
but i have a 510 for that.
hope this helped anyone thinking about the prvari.
I think the whole VV part of things has been over hyped as well. Dialing around and finding sweet spots and all that jazz. Dialing around on my VV devices with atomizers is great fun. Dialing around on cartomizers is asking for a burnt up tasting cartomizer.
The reason I like VV on the Provari, Darwin, and Buzz Classic is the fact that I can put in a battery and get that 3.7, 4.7, or 6.0 hit with perfect consistancy. I love tanks and a Boge 3.0 at 7.7 watts on the Darwin, 4.7 V on the Provari and Buzz gives me a perfect consistant flavorful plume of vapor hit. I have passed this set up to many a vapor and they love it and get hooked on tanks.
These atomizers/cartomizers were built around speific voltage and wattage, and I think if you aren't using some type of fixed or voltage regualted mod your vape is constantly changing with the charge of the battery.
It's all about consistancy. I usally tell people that vape on a non variable voltage that they are the one with VV mine always stays the same, in accordance to where I set it and forget it.
The reason I like VV on the Provari, Darwin, and Buzz Classic is the fact that I can put in a battery and get that 3.7, 4.7, or 6.0 hit with perfect consistancy. I love tanks and a Boge 3.0 at 7.7 watts on the Darwin, 4.7 V on the Provari and Buzz gives me a perfect consistant flavorful plume of vapor hit. I have passed this set up to many a vapor and they love it and get hooked on tanks.
These atomizers/cartomizers were built around speific voltage and wattage, and I think if you aren't using some type of fixed or voltage regualted mod your vape is constantly changing with the charge of the battery.
It's all about consistancy. I usally tell people that vape on a non variable voltage that they are the one with VV mine always stays the same, in accordance to where I set it and forget it.
I've had both the Provari and Darwin. Both are excellent, but saying the Darwin is the "best PV" is highly subjective. It is a wonderful device, don't get me wrong, but I sold mine and purchased another Provari. I like carto tanks. Can you use them on a Darwin... Yes, but it is no longer pocket friendly when you do. If I worked in an office or only used it at home, I would have kept it. But I don't work in an office, and my Provari goes everywhere with me safely tucked in my pocket or belt holster (if at work). For me and my lifestyle, the Provari is a better PV.
As far as the click button menu. Seriously, people, it's no big deal. It takes a second to change or check anything. You make it sound like you need an advanced degree in buttonpressology to work it. Simply not true.
Also in regards to the E2 error. I don't use LR DC carts. For my DC tanks, I use 2.5 ohm DC's. I have never gotten an E2. However, if you do use them and get an E2, just turn the voltage down, and boom! You're vaping again. It doesn't shut down, melt in your hand, explode, turn into dust, or any such nonsense.
It's silly all the crap the Provari is taking from people who don't have one, and heard bad things about it on the interwebs, or are lava tube fanboys.
In my never to be humble opinion, the quality of the build, features, and regulated voltage far outweighs any possibility of getting a possible error if I happened use a carto that was meant for low voltage PVs anyway.
Just my $0.02. [/rant off].
Sent via cellular communication device...
I LOVE MINE, yes, I own a ProVari and a Darwin and I love them both...great devices.
The whole 'push button' thing...please, its not hard to do...and you do not need to push the button on the ProVari 50 times, it's NOT like that all...and once you get the hang of it
Great devices, I'm very pleased with them both
I like the regulation. The hit is always the same, unless I want to change it. Yes, iv provoked the E2 error, and nothing bad happened. I just turned the voltage down.
Back when I made 'the choice' I was looking at the Vari and the Darwin.
I wanted Darwin first, but there were none in stock and no one had any idea when they'd have more. The reason I wanted Darwin was mainly a lifestyle choice for me at the time, but I've really grown to appreciate the Variable Power, form factor, and the swing arm. I liked that it came with superb warranted batteries and charger built right into the unit, yet weighs a little less than a Vari despite all that. I would not need external chargers and I would never have to 'open it up and take out batteries' to charge them. I'm almost always near a power source, and off a USB string the thing easily lasts me all day or more. Darwin cost slightly more, but it also comes ready to vape. Add an end cap, a set of batteries, and a charger to the Vari, and it's about the same price (maybe a little more) for the Vari. I did not already have a stash of 18650 batteries and chargers laying around like many do.
So, I was just about click the buy button on a Pro-Vari because I wanted something 'yesterday'. I got lucky, a Darwin popped up in the classifieds so I jumped on it. I love this thing. It fits my lifestyle better.
So...the only reason 'I' can think of not to get a Vari is that it is pretty heavy, uses the traditional cylinder battery types (instead of the smaller/lighter yet far more efficient/higher rated li-poly packs), and you still need separate batteries and chargers. The form factor is pretty standard for tube mods (I like Darwin better, but many prefer a tube). You'll have to take it apart to maintain the batteries. That's just ME though, many folks would rather have removable batteries even if they aren't nearly as nice batteries that don't recharge as many times (Darwin Batteries can crank out up to 12v at 3 amps, should last a good 2 years or more and are warranted for a year). For folks that like to spend days or weeks away from any power source, the Vari makes sense of course. Carry spares batteries and never stop vaping
The only reason I can think of not to get a Darwin is that you can't pre-order them like with a Vari. A Vari, you can order any time you want. If it's in stock, you'll get it in a day or two. If not, the production runs seem to be pretty 'regular' and you'll usually get one within a couple of weeks...deal done.
Both companies, "Pro Vape and Evolv" have stellar warranties and customer service/satisfaction. With the Vari warranties are somewhat an option (pay a little more and get a better warranty). With the Darwin, there is just one price for all, and you get the warranties.
I wanted Darwin first, but there were none in stock and no one had any idea when they'd have more. The reason I wanted Darwin was mainly a lifestyle choice for me at the time, but I've really grown to appreciate the Variable Power, form factor, and the swing arm. I liked that it came with superb warranted batteries and charger built right into the unit, yet weighs a little less than a Vari despite all that. I would not need external chargers and I would never have to 'open it up and take out batteries' to charge them. I'm almost always near a power source, and off a USB string the thing easily lasts me all day or more. Darwin cost slightly more, but it also comes ready to vape. Add an end cap, a set of batteries, and a charger to the Vari, and it's about the same price (maybe a little more) for the Vari. I did not already have a stash of 18650 batteries and chargers laying around like many do.
So, I was just about click the buy button on a Pro-Vari because I wanted something 'yesterday'. I got lucky, a Darwin popped up in the classifieds so I jumped on it. I love this thing. It fits my lifestyle better.
So...the only reason 'I' can think of not to get a Vari is that it is pretty heavy, uses the traditional cylinder battery types (instead of the smaller/lighter yet far more efficient/higher rated li-poly packs), and you still need separate batteries and chargers. The form factor is pretty standard for tube mods (I like Darwin better, but many prefer a tube). You'll have to take it apart to maintain the batteries. That's just ME though, many folks would rather have removable batteries even if they aren't nearly as nice batteries that don't recharge as many times (Darwin Batteries can crank out up to 12v at 3 amps, should last a good 2 years or more and are warranted for a year). For folks that like to spend days or weeks away from any power source, the Vari makes sense of course. Carry spares batteries and never stop vaping
The only reason I can think of not to get a Darwin is that you can't pre-order them like with a Vari. A Vari, you can order any time you want. If it's in stock, you'll get it in a day or two. If not, the production runs seem to be pretty 'regular' and you'll usually get one within a couple of weeks...deal done.
Both companies, "Pro Vape and Evolv" have stellar warranties and customer service/satisfaction. With the Vari warranties are somewhat an option (pay a little more and get a better warranty). With the Darwin, there is just one price for all, and you get the warranties.
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Well, I'm not going to enter the P vs D debate in this post (in fact, it was a different mod altogether that took my Provari's place, I had a Darwin long before I bought a Provari), but here's my answer to the OP's question:
I tried the Provari, but found it just wasn't for me. The menu system was surprisingly easy to use, not nearly as much of a pain as I thought it would be, and the device wasn't quite as big as I'd pictured in my mind. Build quality was excellent and finish was beautiful. Like Credo mentions, I didn't have batteries and charger at the time so I needed to get everything and all total it ran me just shy of $300. I did enjoy it quite a bit for the first couple of weeks, but after that I found I wasn't using it hardly at all.
My big downsides to it:
- the weight. It's quite a hefty mod. Throw a SS tank on it and it's even heavier
- performance (only on a couple specific points, otherwise performance was great). I am one of those that does tend to adjust fairly often, so the menu system was not ideal for me. Also, I enjoy dual coils and was using them heavily at the time, but for my taste I needed slightly higher voltages than the Provari would allow to get the vape I wanted from them
- features. And I don't mean a lack of features, but rather features that I didn't need and subsequently didn't use. Yes, they're useful for a lot of people, but for me they were just bells-n-whistles that drove up the price but didn't provide any value to me, personally
All that said, I still think the Provari is an awesome mod, just not the mod for me. Having owned one before and come to that conclusion, that is why I wouldn't buy a Provari
I tried the Provari, but found it just wasn't for me. The menu system was surprisingly easy to use, not nearly as much of a pain as I thought it would be, and the device wasn't quite as big as I'd pictured in my mind. Build quality was excellent and finish was beautiful. Like Credo mentions, I didn't have batteries and charger at the time so I needed to get everything and all total it ran me just shy of $300. I did enjoy it quite a bit for the first couple of weeks, but after that I found I wasn't using it hardly at all.
My big downsides to it:
- the weight. It's quite a hefty mod. Throw a SS tank on it and it's even heavier
- performance (only on a couple specific points, otherwise performance was great). I am one of those that does tend to adjust fairly often, so the menu system was not ideal for me. Also, I enjoy dual coils and was using them heavily at the time, but for my taste I needed slightly higher voltages than the Provari would allow to get the vape I wanted from them
- features. And I don't mean a lack of features, but rather features that I didn't need and subsequently didn't use. Yes, they're useful for a lot of people, but for me they were just bells-n-whistles that drove up the price but didn't provide any value to me, personally
All that said, I still think the Provari is an awesome mod, just not the mod for me. Having owned one before and come to that conclusion, that is why I wouldn't buy a Provari
I have a Provari, which I kind of wish I didn't get. I'm relatively new to vaping (couple months) so think I may have jumped the gun. Why'd I get the Provari? I wanted that "one" PV and decided to get the Cadllac of PVs. I also wanted to be a cool kid and drip but for some reason dripping never really panned out for me. Then, I thought they'd be great for tanks but tanks have been a nightmare for me as well. The PV that I keep going back to is my little ole KGO which is like 1/4 the price of the Provari!
Prior post talked about darwin going up to 12v at 3a, which is 36w. Darwin tops out at about 12.7w, per other posts, not 36.
The BATTERIES are capable of 12v at 3 amps. Nothing was said about 'watts' as that all depends on the atty that is attached. My point is the Li-Poly battery packs are much better batteries than typical cylinder types. More powerful, and usually rated for at least 1,000 charge cycles, where the 18650 IMR types are usually more like 400 charge cycles, have a lower C rating, and can't put out more than 4 or 5 true volts 'each' (yes, they can use boosters and stuff to make the device hit 6 or 7 volts, but that's a whole nuther can of worms). So unless you got a defective Li-poly, it's going to last most folks a good 2 years or more [and will still work after that, just not hold a full charge as well], and in many ways it's more battery than you need (so it doesn't get worked terribly hard).
I've never passed 7 volts on a Darwin, as the highest resistance atty I've laid hands on is around 4 Ohms. Never really needed more than 10 watts either (and it was dualies at that). Few single coil atties are going to take much more and last more than a few burns
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12v at 3a is 36w, P = VI. The darwin max setting is 12.7w.
Sorry if you disagree, but in the same vein you can put a high drain imr in a provari. A 3.7v 1600 mAh 10C battery can output 16A, higher watts than 12v at 3a. Nobody makes such claims relative to the provari, since they are irrelevant, power levels that cannot be used, but that would be just as valid as talking about a darwin battery capable of 12v at 3a.
I absolutely agree on the theoretical number of charge cycles, just that the power reference, volts and amps, doesn't mean anything since it is outside of the pv limits.
Sorry if you disagree, but in the same vein you can put a high drain imr in a provari. A 3.7v 1600 mAh 10C battery can output 16A, higher watts than 12v at 3a. Nobody makes such claims relative to the provari, since they are irrelevant, power levels that cannot be used, but that would be just as valid as talking about a darwin battery capable of 12v at 3a.
I absolutely agree on the theoretical number of charge cycles, just that the power reference, volts and amps, doesn't mean anything since it is outside of the pv limits.
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You totally left resistance out of that equation. While it's true that no one is making atties with resistances above 5 Ohms or so on a regular basis , it is theoretically possible to put enough resistance on the device to hit 12 volts and stay in the 3 amp, 12.7 watt limit (off the top of my head it would take something like an 11 Ohm atomizer resistance on the Darwin set to 12.7 Power/watts to drive the voltage up to 12v and stay within the 3amp limit of the device).
Yes, it is relevant. If you are 'stepping down' voltage from a more powerful battery it's not working it as hard from a chemistry perspective. If you are maxing out the battery's chemistry and using boosting technologies, then the battery is working full force with every burn.
Just as an analogy:
Consider a bigger engine that does the same work at idle as a smaller one reved up to Maximum RPM.
Anyway, my point at that moment was about the batteries themselves, and the convenience they offer in such a small package. Not the PV.
Both PVs are capable of performing about as good as it gets, while still being safe to use, and offer outstanding warranties. Notice that the few folks making PVs without the safety marks typically don't offer warranties for them! They know it pushes the limits of the switches and other parts in the PV with parts this small. Darwin and the Boge Revolution are the only ones I know of at present that use Li-Poly packs like this. At some point I think we'll see more moves to other battery types. Especially as prices get even lower on the Li-Poly designs.
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The 12.7w is the hard limit of the system. In order to achieve a 12v darwin operation while still fitting within the 12.7w limit, you would have to be throwing an 11.34 ohm atty at it, operating at 1.06a.
While a theoretical possibility, it is a shrug at a practical level.
Yes, I really understand this stuff. The battery that is rated 10C really is safe to operate at 10C, it is an engineering activity, the battery design, which then has margin.
While a theoretical possibility, it is a shrug at a practical level.
Yes, I really understand this stuff. The battery that is rated 10C really is safe to operate at 10C, it is an engineering activity, the battery design, which then has margin.
Yes, but because the headroom is there in the battery...
Running something like a 5 Ohm atty at a little under 8 volts for prolonged periods of time (If you can stand 12 watts? If someone did some higher resistance dualies or triples it just might work out well) is pretty realistic.
Also the 'hard limit' on the power setting is actually a 'soft limit' done in software no? If Evolv wanted to up that Power setting, in theory they could just reprogram the gals right? Stopping at a little under 13 watts is probably more of a conscious safety decision, and less of a device limitation.
I heard some rumors that in designing the Kick (A Power Variable Darwin in a button for any non-regulated 18650 mod), prototypes were limited to 10 watts out of concern that the 18500 batteries might not be able to do the 12 watts safely? I'm sure they are researching it and will hopefully let us have the 12 watts
On Single coil stuff 10 watts is usually plenty, but with the dual and triple coil stuff it will be nice to have that little bit of head room.
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No disagreement, I tend to like 8 - 10w, but it's nice to be able to nudge things up when you want more kick. My norm is 2.5 ohms, 4.5 - 5v but I'll bump to 5.5v at times.
6v limit makes sense, 6a does not, since it has a 12.7w power limit.
The valid equations are p = vi, and ohm's law, v = ir. Solving for maximum power, 12.7 = v6, v = 2.1v, is crazy low. Likewise, solving for r, 2.1 = 6r, r = 1/3 ohm (approximation, but close enough), would mean it is designed to work with 0.33 ohm atties.
Please check again. I suspect that the 12 is watts (it can really reach 12.7 I believe, but have also seen reference to 12), 3a is likely max current, and 6v likely max voltage, but it doesn't do both 3a and 6v simultaneously, since the 12.7w max is the ultimate limit. (in other words, it can go up to 3a, and up to 6v, but variation still has to stay within the limit of no more than 12.7w power).
The valid equations are p = vi, and ohm's law, v = ir. Solving for maximum power, 12.7 = v6, v = 2.1v, is crazy low. Likewise, solving for r, 2.1 = 6r, r = 1/3 ohm (approximation, but close enough), would mean it is designed to work with 0.33 ohm atties.
Please check again. I suspect that the 12 is watts (it can really reach 12.7 I believe, but have also seen reference to 12), 3a is likely max current, and 6v likely max voltage, but it doesn't do both 3a and 6v simultaneously, since the 12.7w max is the ultimate limit. (in other words, it can go up to 3a, and up to 6v, but variation still has to stay within the limit of no more than 12.7w power).
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The Darwin current limits at 6amps not 3, I read your post and liked it very much. Just a little correction
Brandon
Evolv, LLC
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I know the voltage possible is way over 6 volts. I've used it at 7 myself many times with 4.5 Ohm 801 atties.
The Darwin current limits at 6amps not 3, I read your post and liked it very much. Just a little correction
Brandon
Evolv, LLC
...
I know the voltage possible is way over 6 volts. I've used it at 7 myself many times with 4.5 Ohm 801 atties.
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