WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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I have the tfv4 mini with the sextuple that came with it at 70 on it right now. Good flavor.
If you get a chance grab the .25 SS coils they are my favorite tfv4 coils so far and I've tried them all except the MTL, titanium and the quad and 8 clapton.
I only need 50w for that aromamizer build I did so I put it on my Sigelei 75w until I get my ML class.
I'll stick some in with my next order ... cheers
Never been a fan of pre built coils since I started with RTA's but the TFV4 & Crown coils have reignited lazyitus in me
I don't get it.... What is wrong with usb charging again?? Been doing it since I open the mod on Christmas. Batteries seem to charge evenly. There has been a 0.07-ish (max) variance by looking at the battery levels at random times, but seem to level out for the most part as time goes on.
Even on 1.08 firmware.
Are we looking at the nitpicky fine details at this point to the point of over analysis without concrete facts?
Just put the thing in stealth mod and stop looking at the screen!
If it needs more heat then turn it up. Less? Turn it down.
Of course it will not perform like a sx, VTC or whatever. The circuitry is different and comparing it to another mod is not really apples to apples comparison. To my knowledge there is NO standard set.
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Even on 1.08 firmware.
Are we looking at the nitpicky fine details at this point to the point of over analysis without concrete facts?
Just put the thing in stealth mod and stop looking at the screen!
If it needs more heat then turn it up. Less? Turn it down.
Of course it will not perform like a sx, VTC or whatever. The circuitry is different and comparing it to another mod is not really apples to apples comparison. To my knowledge there is NO standard set.
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There's been a couple of failures where the mod don't see the battery voltage of 2 out of 3 batteries
Both were using the on board charger prior to failing
Wismec have been contacted, until they respond its just a precaution
I might add 1 crown just to try out SS with the heads. I have too many STM's to be buying tanks.
I didn't realize black versions of the TFV4 were made. What a great match for the beastly RX.
I have the stainless finish version and a ton of RBA heads. So, I'll have to find the black version now!
Great tank.
Update: ORDERED (and with a couple black glass sections).
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I went for the full size instead of the mini
As I was pre warned they like to drink the juice
I'm waiting to see what if anything is banned next year
Spare tanks could be worth a few bob
I'm waiting to see what if anything is banned next year
Spare tanks could be worth a few bob
Yeah, I'm doing the same. Instead of buying premade coils for the STM and my Atlantis compatible tanks, I've been getting RBA kit heads. Not as many, of course, but enough that I can pre-make a few and rotate them like they were premade coils.
And of course since they're rebuildable...they'll survive a long time in post-FDA times, should a miracle, or common sense, not intervene.
I would assume mod fault and not instantly blame USB charging.
Almost walking the line of vaping juice with diacetyl WILL give you popcorn lung. Spouting pure speculation causes fear uncertainty and doubt (fud). Its effects are spreading as newer members of the thread are commenting on not updating and not usb charging...
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I was lucky to get quite a few of the SauceCode branded Atlantis compatible RBA heads before they discontinued them.
The same design popped up on FT and I bought a shipload of them -- all defective, it turned out. The wick holes don't align with the coil.
I've been in a month-long support ticket process with FT. They checked their stock and all are defective (as of this time of writing).
But I'm still keeping them, because if things get tough, I can fix them by grinding down the chimney sections until they line up.
The Triton RBA heads are terrible. The materials and machining are great, but the design is poorly executed.
I had to drill out the wick holes and even then the max wicking I can get is about 16 mean-watts under temp control. If you let it sit for a few minutes, you'll get maybe one hit at 20 mean-watts and then the wicking limits again.
For all the STM temp control shaming around here (which does have merit -- floating center pins are an issue for TC), at least the RBA heads wick like a dream and are well built.
The same design popped up on FT and I bought a shipload of them -- all defective, it turned out. The wick holes don't align with the coil.
I've been in a month-long support ticket process with FT. They checked their stock and all are defective (as of this time of writing).
But I'm still keeping them, because if things get tough, I can fix them by grinding down the chimney sections until they line up.
The Triton RBA heads are terrible. The materials and machining are great, but the design is poorly executed.
I had to drill out the wick holes and even then the max wicking I can get is about 16 mean-watts under temp control. If you let it sit for a few minutes, you'll get maybe one hit at 20 mean-watts and then the wicking limits again.
For all the STM temp control shaming around here (which does have merit -- floating center pins are an issue for TC), at least the RBA heads wick like a dream and are well built.
I've got a couple of those flavors from Germany figure as bad as my lungs are from 45 years of smoking ain't gonna hurt them any worse.
Well I know it's time to quit wrapping coils when you start swearing at them. Got most of it done. I am vaping one of the diacetyl laced flavors right now.
Btw, two fixes for the STM, and other floating center pin designed tanks, for TC:
Use a "micro fiberglass scratch pen" on the inside contact of the center pin (and all the other parts). Be sure to wash out those fiberglass filaments!
If that's not enough, get some axial force on the center pin coil head combo by using a finned heat sync 510 extender. They were super cheap on FT, but not sure if they are still available. I got a bunch of them and they have fixed several tanks that refused to remain stable for TC.
A floating center pin with nothing but the 510 pin of the mod is going to have maybe 1 pound of spring pressure; not much.
But a heat sync on the bottom of the atty with screwed down axial force, will put several hundred pounds of pressure on it. It really helps the connectivity stability.
Also, it's worth getting at least one DNA200 for EScribe's Atomizer Analyzer utility.
It shows with great precision how the resistance can drift on a troublesome atty. Once you get the issue diagnosed and fixed there, it'll usually "just work" on the VTC Mini, or any mod.
Use a "micro fiberglass scratch pen" on the inside contact of the center pin (and all the other parts). Be sure to wash out those fiberglass filaments!
If that's not enough, get some axial force on the center pin coil head combo by using a finned heat sync 510 extender. They were super cheap on FT, but not sure if they are still available. I got a bunch of them and they have fixed several tanks that refused to remain stable for TC.
A floating center pin with nothing but the 510 pin of the mod is going to have maybe 1 pound of spring pressure; not much.
But a heat sync on the bottom of the atty with screwed down axial force, will put several hundred pounds of pressure on it. It really helps the connectivity stability.
Also, it's worth getting at least one DNA200 for EScribe's Atomizer Analyzer utility.
It shows with great precision how the resistance can drift on a troublesome atty. Once you get the issue diagnosed and fixed there, it'll usually "just work" on the VTC Mini, or any mod.
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I saw a fix for it that you unscrew the pin that holds the + side of the coil part a little and wrap a piece of 26awg Kanthal and tighten it up.
I've really never had a problem with stability with the STM though. Always seem right on.
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